More than a few eyebrows were raised and jokes made when I mentioned my plans to visit The Hague. As the International City of Peace and Justice settling some of the world’s most serious disputes, The Hague might not immediately scream leisurely weekend break. But look beyond the business suits and criminal courts, and the home of Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring—who is under permanent house arrest at the city’s Mauritshuis for fear of damaging the masterpiece in transit—reveals an embassy-backed, multicultural scene that’s quietly beginning to rival Amsterdam.International institutions have drawn a worldly crowd to the Netherlands’ seat of government, and the cuisine follows suit: Indonesian rijsttafel sits beside French wine bars, Japanese kaiseki is served in wood-panelled rooms, and Syrian bakeries offer flaky, pistachio-laced pastries. Het Noordeinde (formed by intersecting streets Hoogstraat, Heulstraat, and de Plaats around the Royal Palace) is lined with galleries, jewelry stores, and independent makers, as well as Art Nouveau buildings to admire while you shop. Jugendstil houses line leafy squares in Zeeheldenkwartier (Sea Heroes Quarter), the city’s oldest neighborhood, where buzzy wine bars are popping up and lively street parties are held. The main method of transport? Bicycle, of course. There’s also a well-connected tram line, and some pedestrianised areas worth perusing on foot.
What to do
Mauritshuis: Vermeer, Rembrandt, Rubens. The Dutch Masters are all here, on display in an intimate setting that was once a count’s private residence. Currently, The Bull by Paulus Potter (the museum’s largest painting) is being restored in an open exhibition where you can watch the conservators at work on the giant canvas. Plein 29, 2511 CS Den Haag
Museum Voorlinden: A short trip out to Wassenaar brings you to this privately funded contemporary museum—an architectural marvel housing James Turrell light installations, immersive Yayoi Kusama pieces, and enough Dutch minimalism to please even the most discerning aesthete. Buurtweg 90, 2244 AG Wassenaar
Escher in the Palace: Surrealists, this one’s for you. Step into the mind-bending world of M.C. Escher, one of the world’s most famous graphic artists (and a Dutchman, naturally). Pieces play with perspective, space, and reality, adorning the ornate walls of Lange Voorhout Palace, formerly the winter residence of Queen Emma. Lange Voorhout 74, 2514 EH Den Haag
Kunstmuseum: This is the international home of Dutch abstract painter Piet Mondrian, with over 300 works displayed in light-flooded galleries. Housing 160,000 pieces by predecessors and contemporaries like Monet, Picasso and Kandinsky, and successors including Francis Bacon, the Art Deco building designed by architect H.P. Berlage dazzles with its distinctive yellow brickwork. Stadhouderslaan 41, 2517 HV Den Haag
Paleistuin: Originally the private garden of the Dutch royal family, Paleistuin is now a public green refuge behind Noordeinde Palace. Perfect for a picnic under a chestnut tree or a quiet stroll along rose-lined paths. Prinsessewal, 2513 EE Den Haag
Beelden aan Zee: Shaped like a shell and tucked amidst the Scheveningen dunes, this sculpture museum champions form and material in conversation with sea and sky. It’s one of the few museums in the Netherlands dedicated solely to sculpture—and its coastal setting is one to write home about. Harteveltstraat 1, 2586 EL Den Haag
Scheveningen: The Hague’s seaside alter ego, with wide, sandy beaches, retro pier architecture, and a growing scene of beach clubs that lean more Ibiza than North Sea. Come for sunset aperitifs or brave the waves with a session at one of the surf schools.
Oostduinpark: On the northeast fringes of Scheveningen, locals come to this expanse of undulating dunes and pine forest to escape the city. You’ll spot cyclists, dog walkers, and wild Highland cattle. If you’re driving, use the address ‘2586 ZZ Scheveningen’ in your GPS. By tram, take line 9 towards Scheveningen Noord; get off at the Zwarte Pad stop, then walk 10 minutes.
Where to shop
Moofers Clothing: Designer Jennifer van Haastert has thoughtfully stocked her Toussaintkade boutique with sustainably woven Dutch knitwear, structured pieces, and sculptural jewellery. These are made-to-last, everyday garments, crafted from recycled organic cotton from the Netherlands, traced alpaca yarns, and reclaimed Italian fabrics. Haastert also fosters a network of local, predominantly female artists to dress the walls and host in-store exhibitions. Toussaintkade 22, 2513 CK Den Haag
Nobel Store: Compact yet brilliantly curated, this vintage store feels straight out of your Vinted ‘saved’ items. Come to thrift in one of The Hague’s oldest buildings. Nobelstraat 1, Den Haag
BOOKSTOR: Equal parts café and indie bookshop, this 100-something-year-old building on the Noordeinde still has its original bookcases and moveable ladders to reach the upper shelves. In winter, head to the back and sit in the old conservatory with stained glass windows; come summer, sit on the terrace under the yellow-striped awnings. Noordeinde 39, 2514 GC Den Haag
Store du Nord: Everything in this Scandi-leaning men’s fashion store is handpicked by owner, Jeroen, from makers he knows personally. The bespoke raincoat service with Norwegian Rain is a real highlight. Also, just go in for a chat—Jeroen is lovely and brimming with local recommendations. Noordeinde 49, 2514 GC Den Haag
De Passage: Built in 1882, this is the Netherlands’ oldest shopping arcade. Stained glass, mosaic floors, and glass domes are all part of the charm, and you could just as easily be in Paris or Milan while deciding which flavour of homemade chocolate to take home. Passage 72, 2511 AD Den Haag
Where to eat & drink
Bartine: Blending a Copenhagen-style café, bakery, homeware market, and wine bar into one (well, two different locations), Bartine is an all-day hangout. The café (Herengracht 11 2511EG Den Haag) is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but the bakery (Piet Heinstraat 72 2518CK Den Haag) usually sells out early.
Birdflower: Garlic naan sandwiches, cheese toasties, buttery almond croissants. Professor Kaiserstraat 55, 2562 KA Den Haag
Pompernikkel: As adorable as its name, this bakery specialises in organic sourdough and from-scratch pastries. The vanilla gooseberry ice-cream special sandwiched between cinnamon rolls is the perfect antidote to a hot summer’s day. Beeklaan 370, 2562 BG Den Haag
Café Bleu: Look out for the electric blue awning, and head inside for small plates, an interesting wine list, and live jazz. Hooistraat 5, 2514 BM Den Haag
Café Constant: This corner café would look right at home in Paris. A Scheveningen neighbourhood spot for lunch and dinner, with tables spilling out onto the terrace. Neptunusstraat 2, 2586 GS Den Haag
Single Estate Coffee Roasters: Freshly roasted whole beans behind the counter, great coffee with seasonal specials, and a lovely terrace to sip your brews on. Piet Heinstraat 15, 2518 CB Den Haag
Bøg: Refined Nordic fare with a Dutch twist, served on minimalist wooden tables in an exposed brick dining room. Come hungry, but also curious. Prinsestraat 130, 2513 EB Den Haag
De Zoute Kater: This is where The Hague’s trendiest crowd comes to dine and catch-up over glasses of natural wine. The bistro’s name translates to ‘salty tomcat’ (or ‘hangover’ in Dutch slang), if that’s an invitation to pace yourself… Zoutmanstraat 53C, 2518 GM Den Haag
Glaswerk: In the Binckhorst industrial district (or ‘Binck’ for short), this chic bistro overlooks the Trekvliet canal and dishes up ingredient-led, thoughtfully presented dinners. Fokkerkade 14, 2516 CC Den Haag
Basaal: Part biodynamic bottle shop, part restaurant, the menu here changes regularly as chefs get creative with local produce. The Basque chicken with girolles and frites is a real crowd-pleaser. Dunne Bierkade 3, 2512 BC Den Haag
Bowie: Candlelit tables are filled with French-Mediterranean dishes to share from brunch to dinner, where nights start with sourdough and salted butter and end with pistachio chocolate mousse. Regentesselaan 24A, 2562 CS Den Haag
Marius Wijncafé: This café and wine shop are next-door neighbours, with an impressive sake selection alongside low-intervention bottles. The menu changes with whatever the chef picked up at the market that morning. Piet Heinstraat 93, 2518 CD Den Haag
Restobar: The terrace here gets so packed out on sunny evenings that tables are often added to the street (encouraging yet more passers-by to join). The white asparagus, fermented pear crème, and leek are summer on a plate. Nobelstraat 22 Den Haag
Where to stay
De Plesman: A striking fusion of aviation history and Dutch design, housed in a monumental 1940s building that once served as the KLM airline headquarters. Today, it’s been reimagined by Amsterdam-based studio, Nicemakers, into a refined urban retreat—with nods to its industrial heritage throughout the apartment-style spaces that are ideal for extended stays in the city. The seafood-leaning menu at Restaurant Suus takes inspiration from the hotel’s Scheveningen setting, with Dutch prawn cocktails and Gillardeau oysters to North Sea crab. Plesmanweg 607, 2597 JG Den Haag
*Read the full Guest Book here
How to get there
The Hague shares an airport with Rotterdam, and is connected by a 30-minute, direct train to Amsterdam Schiphol. The Eurostar goes to both Rotterdam and Amsterdam Centraal, and then it’s an easy transfer to a Dutch Intercity train to The Hague.
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