The Finger Lakes are one of the most lovely parts of New York State. It’s also an area that doesn’t see a ton of tourism, so it’s a good region to consider if you’re planning last minute, or when all the usual suspects are booked. Most people refer to any part of New York that isn’t the city or Long Island as “upstate,” but this area is actually Central New York. Some of the region’s most familiar names belong to its universities—Syracuse, Cornell, Hobart—while less well known are the names of its “finger lakes,” so-called because they really do look like fingers on a map.
Technically there are 11 Finger Lakes, but I’m focusing on the ones I know best, including Oneida Lake, which is not truly a Finger Lake, but sometimes is called “the thumb.” The whole area is huge, so unless you’re planning to stay a month, you’ll have to pick and choose according to what you’re really into. For me, it’s always going to be antiquing and finding the best farm stands (which I’m not listing—just keep your eyes open!), and doing taste tests of soft serve and hot dogs. But if that isn’t your jam, there are plenty of wineries (most with lake views) and elevated farm-to-table options.
When I started putting this list together, I figured I’d add in some favorites along the way, driving west from New York City (it’s about 4 hours, depending on where you’re heading). I plan to update these posts as soon as I make a new discovery, so check back for the most up-to-date info! (Most recent update: June 3, 2024)
HEADING WEST FROM NYC, JUST OFF HIGHWAY 17
My favorite farm stand in the world is Blooming Hill Farm, in Monroe, NY, an exit past Woodbury Commons (a huge outlet mall, if you’re into that sort of thing). It’s about 12 minutes off the highway, and they have a great restaurant open Wed-Fri from 5-9pm, and for brunch 10-1 on weekends (but you have to reserve). Their farm store has the most beautiful produce, and is such a pretty setting, and is open Fri-Sun 10-2.
Livingston Manor is such a charming town and worthy of a long visit, but it’s also an easy drive-by. My favorites in town are Upstream Wine, Main St Farm, Nest, Homestedt, Long Weekend, The Kaatskeller, and soon-to-open One Grand Books.
Roscoe may be known for its diner, but I haven’t had good luck there, ever. I do hear good things about the Red Rose Motel & Tavern and the Junction (which has a menu that makes me so excited—a flat-style burger with Duke’s mayo, pickles, American cheese, tomatoes, lettuce and bacon or egg as extras, and pimento cheese with fried saltines!).
Hancock has Unclebrother (gallery-meets-kitchen on Fridays and Saturdays from 5-9, owned by gallerist Gavin Brown and artist Rirkrit Tiravanija), Delaware Delicacies Smokehouse (smoked eel—worth just reading about!), and the Old Bat Factory, a gas station that happens to turn out the best breakfast sandwiches.
Binghamton is where my husband grew up, so we spend a lot of time there. Our favorite restaurant is Cortese. We love the pizza, salad, the petite filet “Milanese style”, and their martinis.
Owego has one of my favorite bookstores, Riverow. It’s such a gem I almost don’t want to tell you about it, but I can’t be selfish—we need to support independent booksellers! It has an amazing vintage collection upstairs, used books in their basement, and new and used books on their main floor. One of my favorite antique stores in the area, which has an epic vintage section upstairs, is Early Owego Antique Center. There are also some other good antique spots in town, but they change often, so just ask when you’re there.
CAYUGA LAKE
STAY
Inns of Aurora: Five boutique hotels in one small charming town, owned by the founder of the American Girl brand. New spa opening up this fall.
Firelight Camps: Glamping with a trail right to Buttermilk Falls!
FOOD
The Dewitt Mall, Ithaka: Home to Moosewood (one of the most famous vegetarian restaurants in the world, opened in 1973!), Cafe Dewitt (best breakfasts) and Buffalo Street Books, a favorite used-book resource. There are also a couple of antiques shops and a great organic grocery, perfect for picking up picnic supplies.
Hazelnut Kitchen: Great farm-to-table menu, in Trumansburg
Fargo Bar & Grill: Old-school pub food in Aurora
NATURE
Buttermilk Falls: Lovely swimming hole with old-school diving boards.
Taughannock Falls: The Gorge Trail is breathtaking.
WINERIES
Heart & Hands, Union Springs
Sheldrake Point, Ovid
CANANDAIGUA LAKE
STAY
The Lake House: Chic isn’t an adjective you would have seen in a story about the Finger Lakes until this opened. A local family owns it, but their aim was to create a place that would attract the boutique-hotel-loving set, and they certainly achieved that.
FOOD
The Sand Bar: The lakeside restaurant at The Lake House, with the best gluten-free fish and chips ever
The Green Front: For the best wings, pizza and draft beer
ANTIQUES
AND…
Boathouse Row is a collection of some 80 small boathouses on the city pier, just a five-minute walk from the Lake House. Lovely cottages on the water that are caught in time.
SENECA LAKE
FOOD
F.L.X. Wienery: Handmade sausages, milkshakes—all locally sourced products
Dundee Tavern at Seneca Lodge: Formula 1 laurel wreaths from the 70s, arrows in the walls from archery champs and Nascar tires hanging from the ceiling—it’s a place filled with history and character, Watkins Glen
F.L.X. Table, Geneva
ANTIQUES
WINERIES
Shaw, Dundee
Boundary Breaks, Lodi
Bloomer Creek, Hector
Hillick & Hobbs, Burdett
Ravines Wine Cellars, Geneva
SKANEATELES LAKE
STAY
Since we are always here just for the day, we turned to our friend Dan who owns Sea Culture in town.
- Mirbeau Inn & Spa
- Fingerlakes Lodging
- 2W Lake (BnB)
- The Bond 1835 (BnB)
- Fallbrook Point (BnB)
- The Sherwood Inn
FOOD
Elderberry Pond Farm: The most bucolic setting, where they serve their farm, literally, to your table.
Doug’s Fish Fry: Started in the ‘80s by a dad who wanted a place to go for dinner where his kids could walk in barefoot and in swimsuits.
Our friend Dan from Sea Culture in Skaneateles gave us his list!
RESTAURANTS
BARS
SHOPPING
- The Local Branch
- Drooz & Co.
- Roland’s
- Rhubarb
ONEIDA LAKE
Sylvan Beach Amusement Park: Referred to as the Coney Island of Central NY, it’s one of the oldest in the country, opened in 1886. The park is so caught in time—we absolutely loved it.
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