I’ve been coming to this part of Upstate New York for 20 plus years now, ever since we bought the Wm Brown Farm outside of Callicoon. Back then, the Sunday farmers’ market might have had 10 cars parked outside on a good day, and there were hardly any places to go out to eat. In the last five years, we’ve seen so many new faces, restaurants and stores arrive, which is very exciting for the area. Now there are actually nice small hotels and inns throughout the region, along with great restaurants! This part of the Catskills is about a 2.5 hour drive from the city—a perfect weekend getaway—and I’m sharing my favorites within an area from roughly the Delaware River to Highway 17, Livingston Manor to Narrowsburg, with some places in between. Just make sure you map it all out and check opening hours before you go. –Y.E. Most recent update July 2024
NB: I’m not covering all of the Catskills—just my favorites in Sullivan County, which is the heart of the Catskills. Someday I’ll do an edition that includes Andes, Bovina, Margaretville, and that side of the Catskills!
STAY
Red Cottage has the best rental listings, and to be honest, staying in a home is probably the best way to experience the area (at least in the summer!), so you can put the beautiful farmers markets to use!
Catskill Brewery Houses are in Livingston Manor, and beautifully done by our friends from Homestedt
The Boarding House at Seminary Hill
The North Branch Inn (also fantastic for dinner!)
The Debruce (an epic tasting menu and we don’t even like tasting menus)
9 River Road is right in “downtown” Callicoon so you can walk to everything.
The Bradstan Boutique Hotel at the Eldred Preserve
CALLICOON +
FOOD & DRINK
Spruce Home Goods: It’s an incredibly well curated home/lifestyle store, but they also make their own donuts and croissants and carry breads from Beach Lake, one of the best bakeries in the area.
Black Walnut by The Farmhouse Project: A relative newcomer, this is such a great spot that could also go in the shopping category. It’s a gorgeous bar that also serves small plates, and they have a beautiful curation of homewares, both new and vintage. I bought the prettiest vintage Limoges cake stand there for $45. I can’t wait to spend more time there!
Callicoon Wine Merchant: Besides being a great wine shop, it houses a great tapas-style restaurant (mostly outdoor seating).
Sunday Farmer’s Market in Callicoon from 11am-2pm
Myers Century Farm is a milk and ice cream honesty self-service farm stand has milk and ice cream 24/7 and couldn’t be sweeter.
Catskill Provisions Distillery
Ba & Me: Terrific Korean
Ollie Grey’s: Best soft serve in the area! We always get the kiddie cone—perfect size.
Callicoon Caffè for a solid breakfast in a gas station that overlooks the Delaware River
North Branch Cider Mill just opened in late 2023, and is our favorite place to get an ice coffee and a delicious GF lemon bar, and pick up a host gift. They also have goats and sheep who are so cute, and after saying hi to them, you can enjoy your treats on the creek in the back.
AND…
La Garconne Boutique is one of our favorite vintage stores. Say hi to Stephanie and tell her we sent you!
The Callicoon Marketplace always has a rotating group of vendors, all of them great.
NARROWSBURG
FOOD
The Heron doesn’t disappoint. Sit outside if the weather allows, because it overlooks the Delaware River, right at a spot where eagles nest. We always get the fried chicken sandwich, but our friends got the chicken fingers and they were fantastic.
The Laundrette is another favorite—right on the river, great pizzas, salads, and cocktails.
Tusten Cup for a great cup of coffee, or an ice cream, and a great edit of snacks.
AND…
One Grand Books is our favorite bookstore—all the suggestions come from famous/interesting people who give their desert island picks.
Mayer Wasner has a lovely edit of clothing and accessories and Pamela, the owner, will always have the most up-to-date intel on what’s going on in town.
Tinker and Nidge scratches the itch if you haven’t been to France in a while—great vintage French workwear, beautiful pottery, paintings…beautifully curated.
Maison Bergogne is an incredibly photogenic antiques store.
LIVINGSTON MANOR +
FOOD
The Kaatskellar for great pizzas and cocktails
Main Street Farm is a cafe/store with a great edit of local products. We love everything about it, except that the service is incredibly slow and a bit unmanaged.
Peck’s Grocery Store may be your best bet for locally roasted coffee when there is a line at the above cafe.
Robin Hood Diner is a solid breakfast/lunch spot—totally caught in time.
The Smoke Joint: We haven’t eaten here, but we hear it’s good.
The Cabin at Hessinger-Lare is technically in Youngsville and probably 15 minutes minimum from wherever you are–but if you’re in the mood for a log cabin with an awesome burger, great wings and beer on draft, this is it.
AND…
Nest is owned by Anna Bern, one of the first transplants to the area. She used to be an art director at W Magazine and probably close to 20 years ago moved up and started her home and lifestyle store in Narrowsburg, and eventually moved it here.
Homestedt has a cool edit of outdoor gear and homewares.
Long Weekend: vintage furniture and homewares.
One Grand Books is opening their second location here!
Upstream Wine & Spirits has such a great selection of wines you’ll probably want to bring back a case.
ALSO…
Churchill Classic Cars in Eldred may sound like it’s a car shop, which it is…but now it’s also a coffee shop. We’re so proud of our friend Jared Lamanna for building the dream. If you like cool vintage Land Rovers and European classics, you have to check it out. Also in the area is the Eldred Preserve, which we haven’t seen since it opened after years of renovation, but it looks good. They also have brought the Old Homestead Restaurant to the property, which has been a local favorite for decades.
There are fantastic hikes in the area–I suggest looking at Trailkeeper. An easy one we do frequently is the circular walk around Crystal Lake—it takes about 45 minutes.
If you are looking for places to stop along the way, they’re all in this link from the Finger Lakes (and favorites along the way) Edition.
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