Upstate Style Ratatouille with Grilled Bread

Near the end of summer, when there’s often a surplus of vegetables at the market—zucchini, yellow summer squash, several varieties of green beans, and loads of fresh tomatoes, as well as garlic, onions, and some bright garden herbs—we make ratatouille. Traditionally, this vegetable stew from Provence involves cooking the vegetables separately and combining them at the end, which can be time-consuming and labor-intensive. Purists say that’s the only way to get the right texture, consistency, and taste. But I prefer to take a few liberties. My riff is a one-pot, quick yet no less delicious alternative to the original. (I also omit eggplant, but feel free to add chopped pieces in with the squash if you like.) Try the ratatouille on its own for lunch with grilled bread, or as a side for grilled or roasted chicken or fish. This is one leftover that stays as it is and does not get converted into any other type of dish. In fact, the flavors really start to jibe when the dish rests overnight or for a day or two in the fridge and then gets reheated.

Serves 4 to 6 

½ cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 large onion, chopped

2 medium zucchini, chopped into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces

2 yellow squash, chopped into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces

1½ pounds (680 g) plum tomatoes, cored and chopped, or one 28-ounce (794 g) can crushed tomatoes

½ pound (225 g) green beans, stemmed and cut in half

2 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley or thyme (optional)

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup (10 g) fresh basil leaves (optional)

Grilled bread, for serving

Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the onion and cook just until soft-ened, 3 to 4 minutes, then stir in the zucchini, squash, tomatoes, green beans, and parsley, if using. Season with salt and pepper. Add up to ½ cup (120 ml) of water if the mixture seems dry; the vegetables will release moisture as they cook. Gently simmer, uncovered, until the flavors meld and the vegetables are soft but not mushy, about 25 minutes. Tear the basil leaves and stir in, if using. Season again with salt and pepper and serve with grilled bread.

Adapted from A Man & His Kitchen (Artisan), by Matt Hranek