Eating Provence

le SUD: Recipes from Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, by Rebekah Peppler

We’ve followed Rebekah Peppler for a while, ever since the Paris-based food/travel writer/stylist published Apéritif: Cocktail Hour the French Way in 2019, followed by À Table, which revealed her knack for hosting relaxed dinners in that unfussily French way—often in her 18th-arr. flat with the photogenically laden bar. Her newest, le SUD, focuses on recipes inspired by her travels throughout Provence, and is juiced up with sun-kissed images of the region’s hills and coastline. Follow her travel Substack, Shortlisted or join this trip she’s hosting in Provence in September!

You did a huge amount of driving and eating to research this book. How did you approach it? 

I really did! Though I need to give all driving credit to my partner, Laila Said, who also assisted with the culinary research. I merely navigated from the passenger seat! As far as the research approach, it really depended on where we were. While in Menton, for example, we spent time with Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco and his team, as well as ethnobotanist Alessandro Di Tizio, who took us into the mountains and gardens of Mirazur to forage and chat about the wide variety of plants endemic to the region. We visited La Maison Gannac to learn about the citrus Menton is rightfully famous for; we drove across the border to Ventimiglia’s local market, where so many chefs that live near the border shop; we popped into small, family-owned bakeries to sample what specialities are offered in the region; we met with friends of friends of friends. It was during that trip we also drove up from the coast to the Roya Valley to start to understand the Italian influence and the region’s culinary tradition known as cuisine blanche (or cucina bianca). I still dream about one of the sheep’s milk cheeses we tasted at the market in Tende. In Nice, we ate at every socca stand we could find. In the Luberon Valley, we’re lucky to have so many friends in and out of the industry, and so we were often in people’s homes or restaurants or popping into my favorite cheese shop, Maison Moga, in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (discovered years ago during a birthday trip with a group of friends to Cavaillon). In Arles, we wrapped in some research alongside a trip with friends over Les Rencontres de la Photographie d’Arles, and also made sure it overlapped with the city’s Saturday morning marché—a massive (it stretches over two kilometers), winding, beautiful market that is full of some of the best produce in Provence.

How does geography influence the various foods and flavors of the Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur? 

To borrow directly from the introduction to le SUD: “The 12,000 square miles (or 31,000 square kilometers, if you will) that make up Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur are bounded in the north by the snow-capped Southern Alps and in the south by the blue French Mediterranean. The Italian border (and its culinary influence, of course) marks the east; the Rhône River makes up its western edge. Included within its borders are vineyards, olive groves, pine forests, lavender fields, the Camargue plains and marshes, rivers, and the Mediterranean seaside. Influences from Mediterranean and African countries arrived and were absorbed via modern trade and travel, colonization, migration, and exile. The region’s food culture is made—first and foremost—in the home, reflecting and drawing directly from the region’s people and landscapes. The resulting recipes translate the region’s terroir onto the plate while veering away from overwrought, technique-heavy dishes that tend to be associated with French haute cuisine.”

What were a few of the most memorable dishes that you ate during your research? 

Unexpected meals always make for the most memorable, I think. During a research trip/holiday in Marseille, we were with friends and decided to spend the day at Plage des Sablettes, a beach about 20 minutes south of the city center. The little beach shack/restaurant there is Le Cabanon de Paulette and their moules in aïoli directly inspired le SUD‘s recipe on p. 107 [copied below!]. When we were in Ventimiglia, it was the gorgonzola focaccia fresh out of the oven at Panetteria Mondino that I still think about regularly (not featured in the book, but maybe for the next one?). On the drive from Nice to Saint-Tropez, it was a ratatouille car snack, which became the inspiration for le SUD’s ratatouille (p. 173).

Any favorite hotel stays or other lodging recommendations along the way?

Ooh so many! Top top would be The Maybourne Riviera, Le Saint Hubert (which wasn’t open to the public during the research, but we got a sneak peek stay and it is opening to the public this June), and L’Arlatan in Arles (where we’ll be staying this coming September while I host a trip with Modern Adventure to Arles + Marseille — there are still some spots left!).

When you arrive in a new town or place, how do you follow your instincts to find great food? 

Recently, while in Japan, Laila and I followed the sage advice to hop in whatever line of locals was longest. That plus simply trusting your gut feels like pretty good universal advice when traveling, and it’s always those unexpected bites that are truly the most memorable. Often, if it’s feasible, I’ll pop in somewhere I’m curious about and order one thing. If it’s good, I settle in and keep ordering. If it doesn’t hit the way I thought it would, I ask for the bill and head to the next spot. Nine times out of 10, I stay.

Is there one Provençal town or region that is your happy place—that you come back to again and again? 

Marseille. It’s a city that has a dedicated and committed following of people who love it—and an equally passionate group who very much don’t. For me, it’s perfect. It’s an easy train from my home in Paris (3 hours direct), it has the sea, it has so many different flavors and smells and influences, it has great coffee, a thriving natural wine scene, easy access to nature. Honestly, I go down as often as possible and in as many seasons of the year as I can. My full Marseille list was just featured in my newsletter, Shortlisted, if you’re looking for my city recommendations!

What’s your favorite bring-back food product that is only found in Provence?

Such a good question. We’re lucky to be able to access such incredible products from the south here in Paris, but there’s nothing like a heavy, ripe, sun-warm Melon de Cavaillon in the heat of summer. Even in Paris, the very same melon doesn’t compare. There’s something about eating a perfect piece of produce, feet away from where it was grown. I also bring home Provençal honey, nougat, hyper-local olive oil, and pastis (I especially like Pastis Château des Creissauds, which is made in Aubagne). Oh, and Laila always brings back lavender soaps that she finds at whatever market in whichever town we happen to be in. 

How do you bring le sud into your home wherever you are?

The recipes, photos and stories in le SUD, of course, but also a custom summer playlist Laila made inspired by the book, which will be playing at many of the stops from New York to Chicago to Seattle to LA (and more) on our spring-summer book tour.

MOULES IN AÏOLI

Serves 6

In a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, add the oil. Once the oil is hot, add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring, until the shallots are translucent, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and pour in the wine. Let simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes.

Add the mussels to the pot and use a wooden spoon to stir them into the shallot mixture. Cover the pot and cook, stirring halfway through, until the mussels are opened and fully cooked, 6 to 8 minutes.

Transfer the mussels to a serving bowl, reserving the broth. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Add the aïoli to a small bowl and gradually whisk in 3 tablespoons of the mussel broth. Spoon the sauce over the mussels, tossing to coat, and serve with crusty bread. Should you like, this dish can be, and often is, also served chilled.

Note to prepare the mussels | Place them in a colander or fine-mesh sieve and rinse with cold water. Scrub gently to remove any grit and use your hands to remove the “beard” (the thread-like piece attached to the side of the shells) by tugging firmly. If any mussels are open and don’t close when tapped, discard them. Drain and transfer to a large bowl.