Dispatch from Lake Constance

Few places in Europe blend medieval charm, the cultures of three countries, and a stunning mix of lake and Alps quite like Lake Constance. For me, it’s also home.

I grew up in Michigan, but for more than half of my life I have called Konstanz, Germany (“Constance” in English) home. Love brought me here. My husband is originally from Constance. We met while working in Detroit, Michigan. When he got transferred back to Germany, I joined him and never looked back. I traded the shores of Lake Michigan for those of the Bodensee, Germany’s largest freshwater lake at the country’s southern tip. The city of Constance is the biggest city on the lake, directly on the Swiss border. Lake Constance is bordered by three countries: Germany, Austria and Switzerland, with tiny Liechtenstein only a short drive away. 

A large, rotating statue welcomes you into the harbor of Constance. Her name is Imperia, and she stirred plenty of debate when sculptor Peter Lenk unveiled her in 1993. I affectionately call her the twirling prostitute, as she is a large, voluptuous woman who was a courtesan during the Council of Constance from 1414 to 1418, a series of meetings held to resolve the Great Schism of the Roman Catholic Church, when multiple rival popes claimed authority. Look closely and you will see she is holding the naked king in one hand and the naked pope in the other, a bold symbol of moral hypocrisy and political manipulation.

The building where these meetings took place still stands alongside the harbor in Constance, with views of the lake and the Alps. From the harbor, it’s just a couple of minutes before you are in the pedestrian-free downtown area. For lunch, I often head to Essbar, where the menu of small plates changes constantly. Don’t leave without trying the warm chocolate cake for dessert. On Tuesdays, my secret tip is to head to the tiny Milk and Honey café for their unforgettable bánh-mì sandwich and a slice of homemade cake.

I love wandering the small downtown streets, lined with buildings from the 12^th to 15^th centuries. Residents left their lights on at night during WWII, making the city indistinguishable from neutral Switzerland and sparing it from bombing. Don’t miss ‘sFachl, tucked inside a 900-year-old house and brimming with handcrafted treasures from local makers. If you’re looking for a new leather bag, Alexander Heitz has four shops across downtown Constance.

I am always sure to show guests the “Niederburg,” the oldest section of Constance. This quarter is a maze of alleyways and winding streets lined with small shops. Stop into Kolekto, a concept store brimming with ethically made finds. I can’t pass through the Niederburg without stepping back in time in one of its many wine bars. A favorite is the Weinstube Hintertürle, located in a very charming 600-year-old building. Order a glass of Müller-Thurgau, the popular local white, or a Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) for red, both grown right along the lake’s shores. 

For dinner, I like to head down to the Rhine River, which flows out of Lake Constance to the unassuming-looking Restaurant Anglerstube. But don’t let appearances fool you. Step inside to a warm welcome and always inventive dishes.

For a more affordable option along the Rhine, the Constanzer Wirtshaus serves all the Southern German classics (Maultaschen, Spätzle, and Wurstsalat), best enjoyed in its beer garden overlooking the river. In Constance, history greets you at every turn. Kaiser Wilhelm II built this building as an officers’ casino in 1899.

In keeping with history, I recommend staying at the Inselhotel, a former Dominican monastery located on a small private island on the lake. Even if you don’t spend the night, be sure to walk through the old cloister surrounded by its well-preserved frescoes, which depict significant historical events from the city’s past. Constance also has several other islands worth discovering. The Island of Mainau, otherwise known as the flower island, is home to a million tulips, roses, dahlias, 15-meter-tall palm trees, giant sequoias, and a palace from 1746. Owned by a Swedish noble family, the palace flies the Swedish flag whenever the Bernadottes are in residence.

Constance is also home to the vegetable island of the Reichenau. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can visit the oldest herb garden in Germany at the monastery garden behind the Church of St. Mary and St. Mark, dating back to AD 724. On the 12-kilometer trail around the island, you may be surprised at how often you have the trail to yourself. Depending on the time of year, you will stroll by rows of lettuce and many small farm stands where you can purchase locally grown vegetables. Stop at the restaurant Sandseele for fresh fish from the lake. My favorite is the Zanderknusperle, crispy, golden pike-perch. You can also go for a swim and enjoy the best spot on the lake for a sunset. In summer, the lake warms to about 23 degrees Celsius.

If the lake feels too chilly, head to the warm thermal pools at the Bodensee Therme, with sweeping views of the Alps across the lake.

I live close to the car ferry, which carries commuters between Staad in Constance and the fairytale town of Meersburg. Your first stop in Meersburg should be the oldest inhabited castle in Germany, the Burg Meersburg. After stepping out of the Middle Ages, I like to take a short stroll past the New Castle to the Gutsschänke for a jaw-dropping view paired with a Winzerbrot, a German take on a pinsa. From here, you can continue about 3km through the vineyards to Fräulein Seegucker for a glass of local wine, seated right between the rows of the vines.The most stylish way to discover the lake is by ship. The Hohentwiel is a historical steamship from 1913. You can book gourmet cruises and other events on this elegantly renovated paddle steamship. Another spectacular way to see the lake is from above, aboard a Zeppelin. Flights range between 30 minutes and two hours. These airships start from Friedrichshafen, the birthplace of the Zeppelin, where they are still designed and built today. If you can’t make it up in one, visit the Zeppelin Museum in Friedrichshafen, where you can walk through a life-size replica of the Hindenburg. After the museum, stop at the Zeppelin Hangar Restaurant to watch the Zeppelins take off and land, a truly spectacular sight.

Leave the city behind and stay at Heinzler am See in Immenstaad to enjoy a private slice of paradise directly on the lake.

The Bodensee is a place of castles, monasteries, vineyards, and islands, all framed by the beautiful backdrop of water and mountains. Whether for a day or a week, I highly recommend seeing it for yourself!