Marrakech Black Book

Last January, I took my daughter, Clara, to Marrakech for four days. It was our first time—we’d been to Tangier and Fez for a  Traveler  story years earlier, but since Marrakech was an editors’ favorite and had been written about many times over, we’d skipped it then. Our plan was somewhat spontaneous—we needed a place that was easy for each of us to  get to from Paris and Athens, had a likelihood for sunshine, and was a discovery for both of us. Also our friends who had been recently said the city was back post-earthquake and eager for visitors, with tourism being such a cornerstone of their economy. As yet much as I wanted this to be the perfect mother-daughter trip, I’d literally planned nothing in advance, except where we would be staying: the first two nights at  Riad Mena, which many of my friends love; and then two nights at the  Royal Mansour, since I wanted to experience the super luxe side of the hospitality scene and my friend who handles their PR had invited us. While I was a little anxious that I had not done a lick of research, I had a gut instinct that Philomena, who owns the Riad Mena and was planning to meet us there, would send us on the right path. I was right. As I boarded my flight from Athens to Marrakech, I received an email from her asking if I had any plans, agenda, anything… to which I responded no. By the time I landed, I’d received the most poetic ramble of places she thought we would like, all of which sounded like a dream. 

We were picked up and driven to the medina, and then we walked to her Riad Mena—a courtyard filled with orange trees and the scent of jasmine, and an incredible tagine lunch waiting for us. She showed us to our beautiful room, and then asked if we wanted to walk around the souk with her. It was a dream—she knew everyone, intuited what kind of things we would like…pointing out all the best artisans, which museums to visit and at what time of day, where we should eat. Within a day we felt like we knew our way around, and were familiar with all of the new things that were happening. That feeling she gave us of confidence and peace of mind that we were going to see and do what we should—for which we are forever grateful—is what I hope this list does for you. Besides Philomena, we are also indebted here to a few of her friends who shared their favorite addresses in the city—as well as several other locals and transplants who know Marrakech, old and new, and the surrounding area so well. —Y.E. 

Last updated November 2024

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Ayoub Boualam & Laurence Leenaert  are partners and cofounders of  Rosemary, an intimate riad that opened last year in one of the oldest neighborhoods in Marrakech. It’s a continuation of their interior and lifestyle brand,  LRNCE, whose handmade ceramics, textiles and clothing celebrate local craftsmanship, art, and design, while empowering the local community.

Eliza Bailey  is a travel PR consultant who superhumanly wrangles all media attendance and itineraries for destination travel gatherings created by  This is Beyond, including  PURE Life Experiences, which takes place every September in Marrakech.

Hilary Robertson  is style director of  Feel Free  magazine, author of seven books and designer of products, sets and interiors for ABC Home, Bloomist, and Crate & Barrel. Her latest book,  Nomad at Home,  examines the lives of creatives who have left their countries of origin for somewhere else.

Kamal Laftimi, Marrakech born and bred, is the restaurateur behind many of Marrakech’s stalwarts, from the causal  Cafe des Épices  to his latest offering,  DADA—an exhibition space, bar and restaurant just off the famed center of Marrakech, the Jemaa el Fna.

Louis Barthélemy  is a  multidisciplinary artist and designer  based between Marrakech, Cairo and Paris. At the core of his practice is a deep commitment to the preservation and revival of traditional crafts that are threatened by globalization. Barthélemy not only collaborates with artisans around the world, but helps to make their work known, safeguard their livelihoods, and pass on their precious expertise.

Mallory Solomon  is the CEO/co-founder of  Salam Hello, a Morocco-based rug company that works directly with local Amazigh women artisans across Morocco, while maintaining full price transparency and giving back to their communities. She’s based in Marrakech, where the Salam Hello showroom is slated to open this spring.

Maryam Montague  is a social entrepreneur who has lived in Marrakech for over 15 years. The author of  Marrakesh by Design, she co-owns the boutique hotel  Peacock Pavilions, built in partnership with her architect husband. With a background in humanitarian aid, she is also the founder and executive director of  Project Soar, the teen girl rights’ organization, working in over 50 locations in Morocco and Syria.

Nicholas Minucciani  is the head of brand for  Marrakshi Life, which he started with his husband,  Randall Bachner, after relocating to Marrakech from Brooklyn. The vertically-aligned atelier works exclusively with fabrics hand-woven by their in-house team of artisans focusing on zero-waste, made-to-order, sustainable and gender-neutral fashion. 

Philomena Schurer Merckoll  opened  Riad Mena, with its lush, fountain-filled courtyard, in 2014, which quickly became the place to stay in the Red City. But she’s so much more than a hotelier (or a creative director, also on her CV)—she’s a phenomenon with an instinctive sense of hospitality and curiosity who is always creating connections among like-minded creatives across the city. 

Pierre Collet is the director of  MAP Marrakech  (Le Monde des Arts de la Parure). He has been traveling to Marrakech since the 1990s and has lived there since 2018, during which he shared his love and knowledge of the city as a consultant for the Louis Vuitton City Guide.

Romain Michel Meniere  is the founder/owner of  Berber Lodge  in the village of Oumnass, outside of Marrakech. He’s a French-Swiss interior designer who has lived in Paris, Geneva, Milan, New York, and then Morocco since 2002, where he runs his guest house and works with friends and clients in the renovation of old riads.

Rosena Charmoy  is the founder/proprietor of  Farasha Farmhouse  and also founder of special events company,  BoutiqueSouk.

Valérie Barkowski  is the owner and designer of the boutique  Riad Dar Kawa  and  V.Barkowski Home, a linen and fashion accessories store specializing in traditional handicraft and artisanry.