Best for… Four Seasons Astir Palace is the most elegant seaside getaway close to a major city and airport!
The vibe… A beloved institution that dates to the late ‘60s–all of my Athenian friends have been coming here since they were kids. Several years ago, after a thoughtful and extensive renovation, it became a Four Seasons. The sea swimming there is great, and there are several pools to choose from, but we were also happy just sitting on our terrace looking out at the water.
The rooms… Our friends insisted that we stay in one of the original bungalows, which we loved—well appointed, sliding doors to a terrace with sunbeds (and some have their own pools), which looks out to the beach and the sea beyond. But when we were walking around and saw the other parts of the hotel, we thought it all looked great. While it’s quite a big resort with multiple buildings and pools, it doesn’t feel huge. There’s a section they call Nausika that seems to cater a bit more to families.
The food and drink… We ate lunch at their taverna, which was very good, although it was definitely the most expensive Greek salad I’ve ever ordered (something like 20 euros). But you can basically swim while you’re waiting for your food—you’re just in front of the water. We closed out the trip with a splurgy meal at the hotel’s Matsuhisa, which has the best views overlooking the sea. If you’re not in the mood for sushi, it’s definitely worth having a drink at the bar at sunset.
The location… While Athens is in the name, don’t get confused—it’s not actually in Athens. It’s on the Athenian Riviera, in the seaside town Vouliagmeni–about 30 minutes to the airport, and 30 minutes into the city (as long as there isn’t traffic! With traffic it can be an hour or more). If you’re looking to spend time in Athens and go back and forth, I would like to steer you away from that. You should just stay in Athens and see the city, and then come here to relax, and explore Vouliagmeni, if you can bear to leave your lounger.
Be sure to… Walk (or taxi) to Sardelaki, a casual seafront restaurant, which has the best seafood, and a refreshing break on your wallet. Just across the street is Lake Vouliagmeni, a thermal lake that’s the most gorgeous shade of green and has healing properties for the skin/muscles—and, apparently, those fish that nibble off your dead skin.
Date of stay… July 2023
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