Dispatch from Sweden’s West Coast

Gothenburg native and Paulina Liffner von Sydow, the founder of accessories brand Liffner, takes us to Sweden’s west coast—from morning coffee and aperitivo in her hometown to swims from sun-warmed cliffs and seafood feasts on nearby summer islands like Marstrand, where her family ties go back generations. Her deeply personal guide runs from cinnamon rolls and crayfish to remote lighthouses and outdoor saunas, in a landscape whose beauty lies in its rugged restraint. —Team Yolo

I grew up in Gothenburg, Sweden’s second city and the relaxed, spirited west coast counterpart to the more polished capital, Stockholm. There is an inherent lightness to Gothenburg—a sense of humor, ease, and camaraderie that shapes daily life. The local phrase “att ha det gott” loosely translates to “enjoying oneself,” but it captures something deeper: a cultural commitment to pleasure, a good laugh, and the art of living well.

My return visits often begin with morning coffee at Bar Centro or Viktors Kaffe, and a peek at the new spot Kafé Imperiet. I’ll often stop at Champagnebaren for an aperitivo or sample the refined wine list at 28+ wine bar. Dinner might be at Ma Cuisine, or a more spontaneous meal at cool spot Bar Bulot in the historic Saluhallen. I make sure to visit Artilleriet—an impeccably curated design store—and Alvhem, for quintessentially Scandinavian cozy home goods.

After a couple of days in the city, I head west to the sea and Marstrand, a storied island known for its dramatic seascapes, rich maritime history, and lively social scene. I have been coming with my family since the ‘80s and my husband’s family has summered here since the 1890s, so there is lots of family history for us here.

The Kurhotellet is a charming place to stay, right on the water. The sauna helps before the daily dip in the salty sea on chillier days. Grab oysters and beer at Johan’s on sunny afternoons and you will meet all the locals. Dinner at the Grand Hotel terrace is a must; order the gratinated crayfish, and be sure to try Africana, a peculiar yet oddly delicious local classic of curried beef tenderloin.

A perfect summer day in Marrstrand starts with a windy (and windy) one-hour walk that will take you around the island before breakfast at Bergs Konditori (the best cinnamon rolls in the world, according to locals). Take a swim from the cliffs at ‘Nålsögat’, a fabled cracked cliff along the shoreline, then lunch at Le Comptoir and grab sunset cocktails at Societetshuset. Probably Sweden’s most scenic sunset.  

One of the most remarkable experiences along the coast is an overnight stay at Pater Noster, a former lighthouse station perched on the edge of the archipelago. The atmosphere is raw and elemental, especially in October, when stormy weather marks the beginning of lobster season. Standing there, watching the sea crash against the rocks, it’s easy to feel as though you’ve reached the end of the world—in the most breathtaking way. In summer, the island offers amazing lunches and dinners; call ahead to make sure you can snatch a seat and have them pick you up by boat!

The coast continues northward in a procession of islands and fishing villages, each with its own identity and charm: Fiskebäckskil, Gullholmen, Koster, Käringön…On Kärringön, dine at Petersons Krog, where the seafood is invariably excellent. In Lysekil, hike the granite trails of Stångehuvud Nature Reserve, where the water—some of the cleanest in northern Europe—is remarkably clear and perfect for snorkeling on a calm day.

The Swedish West Coast does not announce itself loudly. Its beauty lies in restraint — in the briny air and the muted tones of sea and rugged stone. The stormy days are many, making the still and warm days magical. It is a place that invites you to slow down and to savor—and once you do, it stays with you.