Where I’m staying… I’ve landed here for the summer season, working remotely and leading retreats and cultural experiences, so my stay is a bit different this year. As a shorter-term visitor, I loved staying at Amorgos Pearls, right in the center of Katapola, but just far enough away from the bustle of the port area. You have your own small house with a large front yard and hammock, and the owner’s adorable donkey Dolly grazes in the land just next door. It doesn’t get more picture-perfect Greek summer than that.
The best meal I had… For traditional, farm-to-table food without pretenses, it’s always T’ Apanemo in “Kato Meria,” a calmer, more agrarian side of the island. The xortopitakia (pies filled with greens) here are so delicious and somehow not greasy at all, and if you eat meat, this is as fresh as it gets. Bonus points for the sunflowers, vintage photos on the walls, and idyllic setting—their own sheep graze nearby. I also love Fata Morgana in Katapola for Greek food with a creative, but not overdone, twist. Try the sea bass served with tarama (fish roe) and walnuts, and don’t skip dessert.
Most fun thing I did… This was happenstance, as is much of the magic in Greece, but when our retreat group turned one of our taverna dinners into a mini glendi, or party, it was simply the best. I’d just taught the crew traditional Greek dancing, and the owner of the establishment in Tholaria let us turn their taverna into our dance floor. It was like a personal panigyri (the feast days where there is live music and lots of dancing/revelry in Greece). Amorgos has heaps of culture, which can be hard to find on some more touristic Greek islands. Stay open to what can unfold here, and always follow the sound of the violins! The island has lots of live music in tavernas, at the Botanical Garden in Katapola, and of course, on said feast days.
The book I read… Not to get too Greek, but I recently read and loved Scorpionfish by Natalie Bakopoulos. It’s fictional and based in modern-day Athens and the author’s home island. The story paints a realistic picture of the struggles that modern-day Greeks and migrants face, while also managing to capture the sensory magic of this country. I love how Bakopoulos held these many dualities, and especially loved her descriptions of one of the characters who was an artist.
The playlist on repeat… I recently co-hosted a yoga and cultural retreat for my business Yia Mas, and one of my class playlists got a lot of love. I feel like you could throw this on for chores around the house, traveling, or lazing around the beach. I love crafting playlists and make one every month or so—they become time capsules to look back on (i.e. I love going back to “June 2022” and revisiting that headspace). For yoga classes, I really am not into “basic yoga music,” and you might hear Alice Coltrane, The Beatles, Mary Lattimore, or even Abba during one of my classes. The Abba is, of course, fun for a Greece retreat—and we’ll break out into some easy dance cardio to break up the seriousness of a yoga practice.
A thing or two I learned… So much about the flora and fauna of the island. This is one reason I wish people were more open to visiting Greece in the off-season. Baking summer heat isn’t ideal for much other than languid beach days and seaside tavernas, but a visit here in the spring or early summer would be ideal for foraging and smelling many of Amorgos’ herbs. The island is chock-full of herbs, both wild and cultivated. The sage here is incredible.
The best thing I’m bringing home… Now that Amorgos is my part-time home, things are a bit different 🙂 But I always suggest bringing home some wild Amorgian sage (it grows everywhere on the island). Pick some yourself, or visit IAMA in Lagada for many delicious herbal remedies! And, of course, the local libation “psimeni raki,” or cooked raki. It’s sweet and will certainly warm your mind and body from the inside.
What I wish people knew… While they may play it up from time to time, Greek hospitality is not an act. You will always be offered something upon entering someone’s home. Coming from 10 years in NYC, where life is so expensive and transactional that a friend might Venmo you for a coffee, it’s a breath of fresh air to remember this generosity of spirit exists—often from the people who have the fewest material things and wealth.
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