A Perfect Day of Shopping in Paris

Although I’ve had an apartment in Paris for 20 years, I’ve never been able to spend much more than a week per visit. So shopping is done by strategic neighborhood strikes, usually starting with a focused afternoon in the 6th arr. First, Conservatoire des Hémisphères for giftable teas and teawares created by a former Officine Buly art director. Around the corner is Barthélèmy, the cheese version of heaven, followed by an apple tart at Poilâne, enjoyed while walking to the Monoprix on the rue de Rennes. There, I fill my totes with clothes for my son and friends’ children, Erès knockoffs for myself, and packable gifts like raw sugar cubes and savon de Marseille. (Depending on the time of day, a stop at Cravan, an unbelievably pretty cocktail bar across from the Café de Flore, might be in order.) Just behind the refreshed Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés is Delpire & co., a tiny photography bookshop selling editions you won’t find elsewhere.

Walking toward the Seine, the design gallery Laffanour | Galerie Downtown is an immersion in museum-quality Prouvé and Perriand, while Preclothed offers a tight edit of French and Italian clothing from the ‘70s through Phoebe Céline. Deep breath. Dries Van Noten’s women’s boutique is its own world. Pet the clothes, then buy a 35-euro lipstick that comes in a pouch made from deadstock DVN fabric. An elegant French designer got me hooked on L/Uniform, which makes customizable leather-trimmed canvas bags.

A quick bike ride leads to Hermès, where I try on buttery coats and see what’s new in tableware and furniture. Margaret Howell’s clothing store, which I love for its British design treasures, is hidden in a courtyard behind the Maille mustard boutique. In the Japanese district near the Louvre, Épices Roellinger is a trove of spices sourced by a Michelin-starred chef (who has great hotels in Brittany!), while Télescope has the city’s best coffee and, at lunch, jambon-beurre sandwiches. (Closed weekends.) I slip through the passage to the Palais Royal between the Kitsuné boutiques, then do a lèche-vitrine (window-licking) at Maison Bonnet, the Charvet of glasses, en route to the Galerie Vivienne, where Si Tu Veux toy store and antique bookseller Librairie Jousseaume are good for both souvenirs (memories) and souvenirs. Bonus: There’s an Alain Ducasse Chocolat near the exit.In my fantasy Paris, I have booked an appointment at the Lemaire mothership in the Marais, followed by Japanese tea at the breathtaking Ogata, where I also shop for tea and crafts. Around the corner, Boutique Générale offers an excellent selection of housewares and some clothes. The Franco-Taiwanese pastries at Petite Île are worth the walk from any neighborhood. Yvon Lambert art bookstore has an incredible range of titles, plus collectible Cy Twombly posters and Nathalie Du Pasquier prints. If I time it right, I slide into Les Enfants du Marché for a glass of wine and a bite before they close at 6 or 7. When Paris loves you back, there’s nothing better.