Hello from… St. Barth which, despite being in the heart of the Caribbean—between St. Martin, St. Kitts/Nevis, and Barbuda—could easily be mistaken for the Côte d’Azur. I love to visit in summer—which, it must be said, is not the most popular time to go. Hurricane season starts in June, when heat and humidity can be excessive, and some places can be closed or have limited hours. St. Barth in peak season (December-April) is always high-priced and high-occupancy, with lots of traffic and tough-to-get reservations. But in July and August, when much of Europe takes their vacations, it can feel very special: quiet and extra-French, as families from Paris escape to the island for their time off. I’ve been coming here for several years, always in summer, and I find it’s an important mid-year break to reset before heading into the second half of the year.
Where I’m staying… GypSea Hotel (aka Villa Marie St. Barths) has been my home away from home every year I’ve come. Over the years, the hotel has evolved: in addition to the bungalows and villas on Colombier Hill (overlooking the island), they have opened four beach houses right on St. Jean Bay—next to their beach club, which guests have access to. The view from the bungalows is the perfect place to start the day before heading down to the hotel’s pool area for breakfast of coffee, pastries, and other dishes. The plantation-style architecture is punctuated with well-curated design elements throughout the open-air reception, restaurant, lobby area and guest rooms. During the day, you can explore the island, or just head to the lounge chairs at the beach club, before returning to the pool at the main hotel for a pre-dinner cocktail and cigar.
The best meal I had… is not an easy call! I mentioned St. Barth feeling very French, and this shows up brilliantly in the food and wine selections. While the menu is not exclusively French at Shellona, I would recommend this for a wonderful lunch overlooking the perfectly turquoise waters at Shell Beach. For a starter, try the phyllo-wrapped feta (covered with honey and sesame seeds), and for lunch, the Caribbean lobster pasta—a giant platter of pasta coated in tomato sauce (with lots of butter, I presume) and covered in grilled lobster. It’s become a ritual in and of itself every trip. For something more French for dinner, I would endorse Le Papillion Ivre (which translates to “The Drunken Butterfly”) for small plates and a wine selection that feels like you are rifling through a sommelier’s personal journal. They serve classic dishes like beef tartare, onion soup, and foie gras—but don’t miss some of their other interesting options, like the mini-raviolis in parmesan crème (we had two orders) and tiny finger sandwiches of comté cheese and truffle. The service here feels especially personal as well, more so than anywhere else I can think of on the island.
Most fun thing I did… While small, St. Barth does require a car. Each year, I rent a Land Rover Defender to cruise the island, and while not extremely practical, it is great for driving the many hills and visiting the beaches all over the island, many of which are remote with no services. Have breakfast, hop in the truck and drive out to Saline Beach. It tends to be windswept and requires a bit of a hike over a sand dune, but when you arrive, you’re rewarded with an expansive stretch of sand and strong waves. (You may also encounter some au naturel bathers.) On the way back to the other side of the island, stop by the roundabout on the hill above the airport to watch some of the planes land… right above your head. It’s a blast to see the harrowing approach and landing from outside the plane.
The book I read… In past years, I have taken vintage copies of James Bond books to lay on the beach while sipping on rum cocktails, especially the ones that take place in the Caribbean, like Dr. No and Thunderball. This year, I brought a collection of short stories from Guy de Maupassant, a wonderful read between ocean swims. If you visit the GypSea, you might find my copy of the book…I left it on the bookshelf in the library attached to the lounge.
The playlist on repeat… The music on the island is also quite good and very eclectic, between the boutique hotels, tiny restaurants, and the clubby-atmosphere of some of the beach clubs. I’ve made a few playlists over the years, but this original one is the most popular and one I go back to every year (actually, I start listening on the flight there to get in the mood).
A thing or two I learned… St. Barths is a small island, and if you go a few times it’s possible you may make a few friends like we have. You will learn a little bit about the inner workings of the island (if you care to)… which restaurants are coming and going, new development projects scheduled to start, changes to some of the hotels, etc. All of which only serves to make you feel more connected, invested in the island, and ready for your next trip.
The best thing I’m bringing home… St. Barths has no sales tax or VAT and some great high-end boutiques, so if you are on the hunt for watches, jewelry, or something special, you’ll be in luck. This year, though, I’m just bringing home a candle with the signature scent of the hotel. My wife and I will light it every Friday while we mix martinis and talk about our next trip back to St. Barth… in the low season, of course.
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