Maçakizi, Bodrum Peninsula

In short… A bohemian B&B turned hidden jewel on the Turkish Riviera, Maçakizi draws a stylish, artistic crowd to this laid-back coastal enclave.

The backstory… A 45-minute flight from Istanbul sets you down on the Bodrum peninsula—Turkey’s answer to St. Tropez. In fact, with its turquoise waters, terracotta hills and charming whitewashed houses, Bodrum is often called the “Turkish Riviera.” Long before it became fashionable, Ayla Emiroğlu opened a modest B&B here in the late 1970s. Her charisma and curly black hair inspired a friend to name it Maçakizi—“Queen of Spades”—a nod to her beauty and brains. What began as a humble pension evolved into a boat-access-only beach club, attracting a loyal, in-the-know crowd. Her son, Sahir Erozan, returned from running restaurants in Washington D.C., and, drawn back by the scent of jasmine and citrus, helped transform it into the Maçakizi of today: a terraced haven of white bungalows tucked into wild hills above a floating sea deck in Türkbükü.

The vibe… Airy, effortless, and full of personality. The steel, glass, and wood architecture blends into the landscape, while the breakfast/kitchen/lounge area—with open-air views of the sea—feels like the communal heart of a stylish friend’s summer house. Artworks are scattered throughout, from paintings to sculptural pieces. The pool, framed by bougainvillea and a wood sculpture, feels more like a blue art installation than a swimming spot (the real plunge is into the sea). From the hillside rooms, a path leads past the wellness space, screening room, two restaurants (including the new Ayla), a boutique, and finally CaféMed, a vibrant sea-level deck with a square bar and rows of loungers facing the bay. Music starts around noon, and the vibe is relaxed but polished—think creatives and regulars mingling like old friends.

The rooms… Seventy-four rooms are understated and elegant, with crisp white walls, colorful accents, and a mix of sea and garden views.

The wellness… Beneath the main terrace, the gym overlooks greenery through floor-to-ceiling windows, while the marble hammam next door is suffused with natural light and steam. Maçakizi is leaning further into wellness, offering visiting practitioners for weekends of sound healing, movement, meditation, and ceremony.

The food… Culinary roots run deep—Ayla started with her own Turkish recipes, and the spirit remains. Breakfast is a generous spread of Turkish pastries, local fresh fruit, turmeric granola, bircher muesli, and ginger shots served in the large open space above the sea. Lunch is breezy poolside at CaféMed, or upstairs at the slightly more formal Maçakizi’s Turkish lunch buffet and à la carte. For dinner, there are three options: Michelin-starred Maçakizi, where chef Aret Sahakyan creates Mediterranean-forward dishes; Ayla, recently opened on a tucked-away terrace (only 30 seats) to spotlight traditional local cuisine with modern Turkish influences and exceptional local wines; and the relaxed CaféMed, ideal for grilled fish, a tomato salad, and a cocktail with a view, followed by cocktails and a great playlist as you take in the warm breeze. 

Be sure to… Book one of the hotel boats and sail along the Bodrum coast. As you pass towering new resorts, you’ll realize just how rare Maçakizi is—years of history, personality, and instinct can’t be copied.

Date of stay… September 2024