Mexico City has been talked much about and shared in recent years—especially among those circles on the U.S. coasts with their cliquey migration patterns. CDMX combines top-shelf art, ancient history, incredible wining and dining, gorgeous architecture at every corner, and such great people-watching that you will be tempted not to do anything but sit and watch the city dance by. It’s never surprising to see it thriving.
First on my list is where to stay. The iconic Camino Real Polanco is my pick. This modernist masterpiece was designed by renowned Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta. He is famous for his use of bright colors and geometric shapes—like his peer and contemporary, Luis Barragán. The hotel, built for the 1968 Olympics, has an abundance of natural light and bold hues of pink, toasted yellow, Klein blue and purple—specific tones that have all been trademarked as paint colors exclusively available via Comex. The art collection at Camino Real Polanco is just as impressive, with works by world-renowned artists such as Rufino Tamayo, Noguchi, Calder (the Calder sculpture was actually sold during troubled times and is now on display in Lisbon, outside of the Cultural Center of Belem), and Francisco Toledo. Although the hotel is not located in my favorite part of the city, its charm and character are undeniable. I highly recommend requesting a room that does not face the street.
After checking in, it’s time to grab a meal. For a late lunch, head over to Contramar, which is predictable but justified. This seafood restaurant, by chef Gabriela Cámara, is hyped and for good reason. Their aubergine tostadas are excellent, and their desserts are presented with such flair on a large tray that you can’t leave without ordering some. Make sure you have a drink at said late lunch. You’re here for a good time.
To start the next day off right, head to Saint Panaderia in Condesa for breakfast. Their pastries and sandwiches are some of the finest I’ve ever had. Daniel, the owner and chef, and his wife are always around, so the feeling is familiar and well put together. Make sure to take a croissant loaf to slice as a snack at the hotel later—Daniel has mastered the technique of baking laminated dough in a Pullman tin. The result is a neatly squared shape that can be sliced and used for the perfect sandwich/grilled cheese/French toast… need I say more?
While you’re in the area, be sure to peruse the incredible bookstore across the street, Librería del Fondo de Cultura Económica. The impressive selection of books in multiple languages will keep you busy for hours. Next on the itinerary is a stroll through some galleries. Kurimanzutto and Masa Galeria are must-visit spots. The latter is particularly noteworthy and curated by Age, a talented designer, art dealer, and curator. The space is super charming and their selection of contemporary Mexican art is not to be missed. For dinner, consider going to Taverna. This colossal restaurant is a good spot for small groups, especially if you can book the private dining room accessed through a candle-lit bridge above the main dining area. I was there for a birthday group of 12 and it was ideal—not too closed off or isolated from the overall scene. The menu is a fusion of Mediterranean and Mexican cuisines, and their seafood and pasta dishes are outstanding. The restaurant is part of a large complex of old buildings that also host art installations and shows throughout the year and definitely during major fairs.
The following morning, start your day with a solid run through Chapultepec Park. Take time to observe the beautiful Monumento a los Ninos Heroes, a stunning monument commemorating the bravery of six young cadets who died in the Battle of Chapultepec in 1847. The landscape is incredible and you just want to keep moving. If you do, jog up to the castle, a gorgeous palace that is one of the two only real “castles” inhabited by true monarchs in North America. The castle is erected on what was an island in the middle of Lake Texcoco, inhabited since the Aztec period and where the Mexica people settled and grew. Next, take a jaunt to Centro and perhaps book a cooking class and art visit to a show installed at Casa Seminario from 1640. This property is also ideal for groups staying together and looking for privacy and character. I recommend checking out @colectivo_amasijo, who do incredible work preserving food culture heritage. It is also worthwhile to learn more about @maestras-artesanas, who dedicate their activities to preserving and sharing the art of textile tradition in Mexico. Casa Seminario is family-owned and operated and great care has been put into preserving and salvaging this centuries-old property.
Making your way back, maybe make a stop at Mercado Medellin (or any produce market for that matter) and buy some fresh fruit, especially creamy mamey (my favorite), sweet and tangy fresh passionfruit, and anything else that looks good. While in Mexico City, you must visit the stunning and ahead-of-its-time Juan O’Gorman-designed modernist home and studio of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Be sure to make a reservation (or walk in, if you forgot) at San Angel Inn, a phenomenal old-world inn-turned-restaurant, where you will forget time exists and just linger for hours with the gorgeous well-heeled families having their regular long lunches there. You can buy their (not rare but cool) blue glassware in the gift shop. Check the restaurant’s chapel on your way out.
No trip to Mexico City would be complete without a visit to the customary and very photographed iconic works of architect Luis Barragán. Casa Gilardi, Casa Estudio, and Casa Prieto Lopez are all stunning examples of Barragan’s work. You will find yourself yearning to build a cool blocky colorful but sparse house, like everyone else who visits. When you explore Roma, make a point to visit Casa Bosques, a multi-disciplinary space that brings together art, design, literature, and food. You can browse the selection of books and magazines, sample some of the delectable chocolate on offer, or even book one of their three guest rooms. This locale is the brainchild of Rafael Prieto, who has built a steadfast following with his work in CDMX and New York. If you really must, walk over to Rosetta Bakery—the guava jam is where it’s at. Bring some home if you’re checking luggage. Nearby, if you enjoy shopping, check out the shops on Calle Havre. There’s a bit of everything. Also in the area, consider visiting Maia Contemporary—they showed a very vibrant Pedro Friedberg show during my last time in town.
And finally, the Museum of Anthropology is a must. The museum houses a compelling collection of artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Hispanic cultures. I particularly enjoy the Mexican period hall, with its walls lined in volcanic rock square bricks that you may also recognize from a visit to the Teotihuacan pyramids. Take your time at this museum. The mythology of Mexican culture is worth as many hours as you can spare.
Overall, this city feels like one that you need to live in or be back to often to completely learn and enjoy—you always leave wanting more and feeling inspired. The people are incredible, the history runs deep, and the lifestyle is super sensual. I hope we don’t ruin it.
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