Airelles Le Grand Contrôle, Versailles

In short… A bucket-list hotel experience that combines a luxurious stay with private guided access to the Chateau de Versailles in the evening and the next morning of your stay.

The vibe… While the building that now houses Airelles Le Grand Contrôle was commissioned in 1681 by Louis 14th to be the home to the palace’s finance controller (apparently a position of power second to the king), it doesn’t feel like you’re staying in a museum at all. The public spaces are more intimate than most palace hotels—the scale feels much more welcoming than you might expect, given that you’re in the only hotel to exist on the grounds of the Château de Versailles. Yes, it has grandeur and beautiful, rich decor and details, but it feels warm and inviting. And if you’re a tassel lover, you’ll be in heaven.

The rooms… I’m such a fan of walls covered in fabric, and our room (#100) had floral print fabric everywhere—covering everything including the closet doors and the minibar! The bed was incredible—you get into it and you just melt. We immediately peeled back the mattress cover to see the maker, which was Trecca from Paris, and the sheets may have been just Egyptian cotton (we asked!), but they were other level. Even the dog bed (yes, we brought our dog Prune!) was fantastic—it looked like a vintage bed, but the concierge gave us the site in case we wanted to order it. They had dog bowls on a Prune-embroidered towel and dog treats for her. Her turndown present was a lovely dog collar with her name on it. Their dog menu was also next level: three courses–meat plus options for sides, cheese, and dessert—at 60 euros! Our room was on the ground floor with views over the back side of Versailles—it was an ADA compliant room, which meant no tub. Proper light switches (yes!), and bedside table lamps are vintage candelabras that have been rewired with dimming lights! a very impressive desk setup, with a genius letter writing and supply box with tape, scissors, Bic pens (made in France!), and even Airelles stamps. Bath products are Jardins Baulieu, and their VIP treats, which ranged from an eye pillow to PJs to a jewelry box, as well as monogrammed notepads for both of us. There’s a very thoughtfully curated all-inclusive minibar with French snacks (the French gummy bears a highlight!) and wine.

Food & Drink… We arrived at lunchtime, and had a casual lunch in the room they call the “audience room”—which is where they offer tea or lunch. My croque monsieur was insanely good—melt in your mouth perfection. Fries were great, but they need real Heinz ketchup! Matt’s club was great–he liked the construction and the way they cut it. Dinner is on the other end of the spectrum—a quite grand affair, which they call the Royal Feast and was created by Alain Ducasse. At first we thought the presentation was a little too theatrical—think Colonial Williamsburg, with them giving the guests each a name and title for the evening—but by the end of the evening, we were thoroughly impressed. The wine pairings were excellent, and we loved the way each course had a historical reason, but was actually delicious and not fussy at all. A cheese course that was Marie Antoinette’s favorite—Fontainebleau with black Perigord truffle and some apple. We loved everything—a fish and cabbage dish and the butternut/mushroom pie were standouts. The ile flottante dessert, which they made in front of us in a giant copper bowl, was the best we’ve ever had. Normally we run away from a gastronomic experience like that, but it was simple, elegant, and the dishes had a narrative that worked perfectly within the environment. 

The bar, in the former chapel, is super small and lovely with its red walls—when we were there, it seemed to be used more as a service bar, but it would be a cozy place to hang out pre-dinner. Apparently quite soon Airelles Le Grand Contrôle is opening up a new à la carte restaurant that will be a nice option if you want to spend more than one dinner there, or want a bit more than a bar menu for lunch. Breakfast the next morning was an embarrassment of pastry riches, including freshly made madeleines, in the beautiful room where we had dinner the night before. 

The spa/gym… We had a brief tour of Le Spa Airelles par Valmont, which has a lovely indoor pool, sauna and hammam. We didn’t have time to try any treatments, but were particularly impressed that they offer their guests a glass of Champagne post-treatment, rather than the standard herbal tea. 

Family friendly? Yes, Airelles Le Grand Contrôle touts itself as having a “Royal Camp” with pony rides and picnics in the Chateau’s gardens in the warmer months.

Be sure to… We were there for such a short stay and on a very rainy and cold day, so we didn’t get to explore the gardens (which guests can access via a private back entrance—admission is included), or experience the options that are available in the warmer months (like boating on the Grand Canal) or check out L’Osmothèque de Versailles, a historical perfume archive where you can discover the perfumes worn by Napoleon and Marie-Antoinette.

Date of Stay: January 27, 2025