A Week of Oysters

Cliodhna Prendergast is an Irish photographer and writer based on Ireland’s west coast, who we first encountered when our friend David Prior wrote about her and others in the region’s locavore movement back when we were at Condé Nast Traveler. She trained as a chef at Ballymaloe cookery school in Cork and grew up foraging throughout the sea, fields and woods around the small family-run seaside hotel where she grew up.  She’s also the founder of the immersive Workship photography and creative retreats in Ireland and the UK—the next one is taking place in the Scottish Highlands at Boath House on October 17^th-20^th,, with one to follow in Ireland in March (details TBD). Imagining a recipe that represented Ireland in fall, we turned to her for inspiration and she overdelivered with four! —Alex Postman

Walking the wind-swept Atlantic beaches of the west of Ireland, we find storied banks of oyster, mussel and clam shells. These are “Kitchen Middens,” ancient deposits of shells from coastal communities that occupied these lands as far back as 6000 BC. These shellfish were their staple diet, they harvested them from the abundant seas and swallowed them raw.

In Connemara where I live on the west coast, bare mountains rise like limpet shells that skirt the coastline and sweep down to white sandy beaches with clear, often turquoise water. The area is known for its spectacular shellfish and mountain lamb and Connemara ponies as well as its wild, raw beauty.

I was a chef before I became a photographer and so food, its provenance and its producers make up a large part of my personal story. I have gathered, cooked and eaten this regional food for the best part of my life. Oysters and sweet blue lobster from cold Atlantic waters, lamb with notes of hillside herbs and heather, forest mushrooms, small beach cockles and Killary fjord-grown mussels eaten only moments after they are lifted from their ropes. I count myself lucky to have easy access to these delicious wonders of nature and nourishment.

There is a satisfactory sucking sound as the oyster knife prises its way between tightly locked, chalky oyster shells. Keeping the knife against the top shell, sliding it through the dark and unseen, the muscle is cut and the lid lifts like a jewellery box opened by a special key.

We have two main types of oysters in the west of Ireland: the gigas oyster, also known as rock oysters, a species originating in the Pacific but prolific now on our coasts; and our native flat oysters. The two species have very different flavours, and oysters from different bays have subtle flavour differences, leading to the term “merroir,” like terroir for the soil. Both are delicious.

Although enjoyed all year, autumn is the best time to eat this ancient delicacy, as this is when they are in their prime, plump, creamy and mouth-watering. Local producers offer oyster tours and tastings: Kelly’s oysters in Galway Bay, DK oysters in Dawros, Connemara and Flaggy Shore oysters in the Burren have their special Flaggy Shore oysters as well as Flaggy Shore daintys, smaller and intensely flavoured native oysters. Sitting by a roaring fire at the fisherman’s pub in Ballynahinch Castle with a plate of oysters can make for an utterly dreamy afternoon. If you are in the south of Ireland, in Cork, Rossmore Oysters have been grown sustainably by the Hugh-Jones family since 1969. On the southeast coast, at a table with crisp white linen and a glass of chilled white wine at the Tannery is the way to go. 

I enjoy oysters anytime; however, eating oysters always has a celebratory element. Therefore although they tend to figure more at the weekend, we can enjoy them seven days a week. Meeting friends in the local fishing village of Roundstone on a Friday evening is a great time to enjoy a half-dozen naked oysters, straight from the shell and washed down with a pint of creamy Guinness, a perfect pairing and a great way to mark the end of the week.

While walking around Galway on a Saturday morning, I was introduced to oysters with buttermilk by Sheena Dignam of Galway Food Tours, a surprising and delicious combination of creaminess with the tart buttermilk. Sunday brunch is when I love to combine oysters with a Bloody Mary Granita, a bold and perfectly refreshing combination of that tabasco tomato flavour that goes so well with the briny fresh sea flavours of the oysters.

I believe that gathering and eating food from your immediate area brings you closer to it, and at this time of the year, on the weekends, I often gather the family for a walk and pick mushrooms. In September and October, our woods are covered in winter chanterelles or “yellow legs,” as we called them as children. So on Monday, I might make “Forois agus Farraige,” which is Irish for forest and sea, my little rendition of surf and turf. This is a very handy recipe, particularly if you find shucking oysters difficult. If you are grilling them anyway, you can pop the closed oyster under the grill and the lid will pop open after a minute or two. All you have to do is remove the lid and fill with the mushrooms and breadcrumb mix.

Tuesday would be for oysters with a quick cucumber pickle. My favourite recipe is from Ballymaloe cookery school in Cork—it is fresh with a perfect balance of sweet and salty. A little goes a long way on an oyster, but you can use the rest for delicious sandwiches and salads.

The Kirwin family have operated Goatsbridge trout farm in Kilkenny since 1962, and produce trout roe that goes beautifully with oysters. Their roe are little pockets of salty deliciousness which only lifts a natural oyster without overpowering its flavour. Any kind of caviar would be delicious here, and brings a flair to an average Wednesday evening.  

This brings me to Thursday, which I reserve for mignonette. If you can find samphire vinegar it is magnificent with oysters, made in Ireland by Wildwood Balsamic. Otherwise, just use your favourite vinegar with finely chopped shallots and cracked black pepper.

Whichever way you enjoy them, be it a special occasion or seven days a week, kept safe in their briny bath, oysters are the perfect fast food.

RECIPES

Forois agus Farraige  (“Forest and Sea”)

1 dozen oysters

A large handful of fresh chanterelle mushrooms

A drop of rapeseed oil 

A knob of cold butter

1 clove of garlic finely chopped

2  tbsp softened butter

2 handful of breadcrumbs

Salt and pepper

Warm the oil on a hot pan and add the mushrooms. Do not disturb for a minute or so (agitating  the mushrooms on a pan and adding salt too early will bring out the water in the mushrooms and they will stew). Turn the mushrooms and add the cold butter. When the mushrooms begin to soften, add salt and pepper along with the garlic. Allow to cook for a further minute, then remove to a chopping board and chop finely. When cooled, mix through with the softened butter and the bread crumbs.

Shuck the oysters, or pop them open under the grill. Drain off most of the liquid (you can save the excess oyster juice for the Bloody Mary granita). Place the oysters snugly on a tray and top each one with the mushroom mix. Place under a hot grill for about 4 minutes or until the crumb has turned golden brown.

Oysters Mignonette

1 dozen oysters

1 shallot diced very finely

50 mls samphire vinegar or your favourite vinegar

Freshly ground pepper

Mix shallots, vinegar and a twist of pepper and allow to macerate for about a half hour, serve with chilled, freshly shucked oysters

Oysters + Bloody Mary Granita

Makes enough for 2 dozen oysters

2 shots of vodka or poitin for extra Irishness

15 fl. oz of good tomato juice

1 tbsp lemon juice

A few drops of Worcestershire sauce

A few drops of Tabasco

½ tsp celery salt 

A pinch black pepper

Adding the juice of the oysters you have is delicious, too

Add all the ingredients together and place in a large flat tub to freeze. Then scrape the frozen mixture with a fork to top the oysters as you serve.

 Quick Ballymaloe Cookery School Cucumber Pickle

1 lb thinly sliced unpeeled cucumber

1 red onion thinly sliced

4 oz sugar

1/2 tablespoon salt

4 fl oz cider vinegar

Combine the cucumber and onion sliced in a large bowl. Mix the sugar, salt and vinegar together and pour over cucumbers. Place in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator and leave for at least 1-2 hours or overnight before using. 

Keeps well for up to a week in the refrigerator.