I start each year with a short list of places I’ve never been. Ireland hadn’t originally made the cut—even though it’s always been on my someday list. What finally pushed it to the top was my mom. She had never been to Europe, and I wanted to give her an easy, welcoming first trip that still felt full of wonder.
And that’s exactly how Ireland greeted us. A place that doesn’t feel the need to boast—just quietly beautiful, deeply charming, and somehow still a little slept on among my travel friends.
We landed in Dublin running on no sleep and bad airport coffee, but the adrenaline of arrival kept us going. Within an hour, I was behind the wheel of a rental car—my first time driving on the left. Jill at the counter pressed a green bracelet into my hand with “Stay Left” printed on it, a souvenir and helpful reminder. The roundabouts near the airport were chaos, but once we got out of the city, the road got narrower but also more scenic, cutting through endless green hills, stone walls, and tiny villages.
About an hour in, we kicked off our trip in the most absurdly charming way possible: with a visit to a sheep farm.
County Galway: scones, sheepdogs and the Burren
Our first stop was Rathbaun Farm in Ardrahan, a family-run farm that felt more authentic than touristy. We arrived ten minutes late after a wrong turn but Evelyn, our host, immediately roped us into helping make scones. Then we headed to the barn for the bottle-feeding of baby lambs, sheepdog demos, and a primer on the wool industry—only a small part of the industry remains profitable today. The farmers’ passion for keeping the tradition alive was palpable, and the experience ended up being a highlight of the trip.
From there, we continued an hour west through The Burren National Park—a horizon of otherworldly gray limestone paving the hillsides, and dotted with wildflowers, stone walls, dairy cows, and sheep. The scenery looks like nowhere else in Ireland.
By late afternoon, we checked into the Wild Honey Inn in Lisdoonvarna—our first night’s stay, run by husband-and-wife team Aidan and Kate McGrath. Aidan is well-known in the area as a Michelin-starred chef, and the inn has become as much a destination for its food as for its warm, homey atmosphere. It has the calm, considered feel of a place where everything is done well, but nothing is overdone. The inn is cozy, with low ceilings, soft lighting, and antique furniture that makes it feel like stepping into someone’s home. Before dinner, we made a quick drive to the Cliffs of Moher for sunset. Pulling into the lot, the sea air hit us, salty, sharp, and colder than expected. Yes, it’s touristy, but it’s also staggering—the dizzying cliffs dropping sheer down to the crashing Atlantic. With the wind whipping all around us, it felt like one of those views you can’t quite absorb in a photo. Since we were there just before closing, the €30 parking fee felt steep, but if you plan ahead and give yourself a few hours to walk the landscape, it’s worth it.
On the way back we stopped in Doolin, a tiny coastal village often called the traditional music capital of Ireland. Brightly painted pubs line the road, and the town backs onto a running creek, which was especially charming at sunset. We ordered fish and chips at McGann’s Pub, wandered past shops that had closed for the evening, and returned to the inn for some much-needed sleep.
Day 2: Counties Limerick & Kerry: markets and manors
The next morning, we headed toward Kenmare, stopping in Limerick to spend the morning at The Milk Market, the city’s open-air food market. Popping into one shop, my mom and I met an older gentleman named Jim, who shared stories of his time living upstate New York, which reminded me how easily these genuine and unforced connections happen in Ireland.
Passing through Adare, we got a glimpse of the thatched-roof fairytale cottages with brightly painted doors, manicured gardens and ancient churches. It’s no wonder the town has won Ireland’s Tidiest Town award many times. Though we didn’t linger, it was one of those places that left an impression.
By late afternoon, we arrived at Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare, a hotel so deeply tucked into its landscape—across a one-way stone bridge and along a road covered by a canopy of trees—that my mom and I actually missed the entrance several times.
The lodge sits on the river, with the falls rushing just outside the windows. The main building is a stately stone house that looks like a grand country estate, but has the warmth of a peaceful and private retreat. The grounds stretch out with manicured lawns and woodland paths, and the rooms themselves have a warm, modern cabin-like feel with soft wool throws, leather club chairs, and windows that frame the water.
Dinner at their restaurant The Falls, was a standout, each course inventive but not at all pretentious or formal. From the tuna tartare amuse-bouche to the best filet I’ve ever had, meltingly tender and paired with seasonal sides, it was thoughtful from start to finish and one of the most memorable meals of our trip.
County Cork: a port town and treehouse stay
We left reluctantly but headed towards Cork, pausing in Kinsale, a colorful port town known for its art galleries and fresh seafood. We stopped for breakfast at O’Herlihy’s and watched the boats from the pier. My mom found a perfect Irish wool sweater made by a local artisan and a tweed cap, while I picked up a magnet, which I collect for my fridge wherever I go.
That night’s stay, The Montenotte, sits above the city, with sweeping views. We stayed in one of their new Woodland Suites, designed by Irish architects Henry J Lyons and interior designer Róisín Lafferty, tucked into the trees like a luxe treehouse. Deep green walls, velvet armchairs, brass accents, and playful mid-century lighting created a space that felt both bold and cocooning. At the center of the room, a large freestanding bathtub added a touch of quiet luxury, and the smaller details, like locally made ceramics for morning coffee and wool throws, tied it all back to Ireland.
That evening, we went into the city for a drink and stopped by two pubs, Sin É and The Corner House, which sit right next to each other and seem to have a friendly rivalry over which locals prefer. We had to try both, and the end preferred the latter—a little dive-bar with all the pub charm, and they even served their own house-made Baileys. It had also happened to be marathon day, so the city was buzzing with runners still in their bibs, spectators spilling out of bars, and live music drifting from open doorways. The whole city felt like it had been celebrating since morning.
County Kilkenny: castles and craftsmanship
By day four, the whirlwind pace was catching up with us, but Kilkenny Castle revived us. Some rooms are museum-style; others are fully restored and make you feel you’re time traveling. We walked through tea rooms, bedrooms, and long corridors lined with hanging tapestries. The ceilings in some spaces were intricately painted, telling stories from the castle’s history. First in that morning, we had the place nearly to ourselves.
Afterwards, we wandered into the shops in the old castle stables, now used as artisan spaces. Every proprietor there is required to make what they sell—candles, pottery, jewelry, clothing, holistic healing products—and it all felt very connected to place.
That evening, we checked into Lyrath Estate, a sprawling property just outside Kilkenny. The front of the hotel is a restored 17th-century manor, with ivy-covered stone walls, tall sash windows, grand staircases and ornate fireplaces. Walking through the rooms, we could still feel the estate’s history in the creak of the floors and the portraits of former owners—it was fascinating to imagine their lives while standing in the same spaces. The guest rooms, though, are set in a modern extension behind it—sleek, contemporary spaces that are airy and comfortable—while the front holds the character of centuries past.
We ended the night in the estate’s old-school cinema watching The Secret Garden, which felt especially fitting for our travels, surrounded by gardens and old manor houses. Early the next morning, I walked the formal gardens and wooded trails of the property with my camera, spotting deer moving quietly through the trees, rabbits darting across lawns, and a few cats roaming the paths like they owned them. It added a sense of liveliness to the estate, like history and nature were both still very present.
Dublin: the finale
Our final stop was Dublin, which was a relief after days of winding country roads. We stayed at The Merrion, a five-star hotel in the heart of Georgian Dublin and just steps from St. Stephen’s Green Park. The building is made up of four restored 18th-century townhouses, and the interiors preserve that old-world charm in the best way. Tall ceilings, period furniture, and framed artwork give the common spaces the feel of a grand home. Much of the hotel’s artwork comes from a private collection of 19th and 20th century Irish art closely tied to the National Gallery of Ireland, so it feels like you’re staying inside a living museum. It was a perfect place to end the trip, with all the comfort and grace we’d come to expect from Ireland.
The last day was more structured, so we could cram everything in. We had afternoon tea at the hotel (with pastries inspired by the artwork), then headed to Trinity College to see the Book of Kells and the Long Room. It was packed with tourists, but that didn’t detract from the experience. The manuscript sits under glass in a darkened room, its illuminated pages glowing softly in the light. It’s hard to fathom that something so intricate and so old—created over a thousand years ago—is right in front of you. I was stopped by a guard when I pulled out my camera—and maybe that was for the best.
Our last stop was the Guinness Storehouse, which I thought my mom would enjoy, and it was surprisingly well done—walking you through the entire brewing process, from ingredients to the fermentation and how the beer became so tied to Ireland. That night, we toasted the end of the trip with pizza at Bambino, walked the cobbled streets one last time, and collapsed into our beds.
Five towns in five days isn’t for the faint of heart, especially with left-side driving. (I did clip a mirror leaving Cork, no harm done.) But with my mom as co-pilot and “Stay Left” bracelet on my wrist, we figured it out together, and laughed a lot along the way.
Ireland is as beautiful as everyone says. But it’s the incredibly kind people, the warmth, and the feeling of being welcomed that made it unforgettable, for both of us.
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