Paris is by no means short on hotels, and the character of each quartier can completely shape your stay—whether you’re cosplaying Gigi on the Left Bank with a dose of Belle Époque glamour, or channeling Gene Kelly in Montmartre in a perfect hôtel particulier. While the plush comforts of a gilded palace hotel—marble tubs, cloud-like beds, and a perfect martini in the bar—are a fantasy we love to indulge, it’s the neighborhood spots that draw us back. The hotels anchored to their surroundings, where design reflects a sense of place and the staff seem like locals who just happen to have great taste—like the warm wood and Japanese details at Hotel Hana in Little Tokyo, the sexy, velvet-draped cool of Le Pigalle, or the low-lit charm of Château d’Eau in Strasbourg-Saint-Denis that feels like a ‘70s film set in the best way. Our hotels list spans (nearly) every arrondissement, with a Paris for every mood and traveler—which will only make you want to return and discover a new address to fall for. 

P.S. We’ve also highlighted more affordable hotels with a CM (for “Costa Meno”—our code for under €350 a night!). 

1st Arrondissement 

Encompassing the Louvre and the Tuileries, the Palais Royal, Rue Saint Honoré, and of course Place Vendôme, the 1st is all about marquee sights wrapped in Parisian elegance—while being a straight shot by foot or metro to cooler areas like Le Marais and the 10th. 

Château Voltaire – A cool contrast of 17th-century bones and lighthearted interiors by Parisian design studio Festen.

Maison Armance – This 20-room former home of Stendhal feels more like a pied-a-terre than a hotel. The property is also home to a French bulldog named Filou, who kids adore. (Read our Guest Book here.) (CM)

The Ritz Paris – The lavish former haunt of the likes of Coco Chanel and Marcel Proust on Place Vendôme, it’s also home to the old-school charmer, Bar Hemingway. 

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In short… A luxurious stay in Rome that doubles as a welcoming retreat for families.

The surroundings… Set within a lush 15-acre park atop Monte Mario, the Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel is a lovely escape from the bustle of Rome’s center. It’s just far enough from the city to offer a more relaxed vibe, with its manicured grounds that are a highlight in themselves. (Let the kids burn off steam running around the Alice and Wonderland-esuqe lawn statues and grab an aperitif on the patio, overlooking the double pools.) From the city-facing rooms, the Rome Cavalieri’s balconies deliver stunning views across Rome. E.M. Forster may have staked Florence as the setting for A Room with a View, but one glance from the balcony (St. Peter’s dome, the Colosseum, the Spanish Steps, to name just a few sights) and he might have reconsidered. A complimentary shuttle runs regularly to the city center, putting you in the heart of Rome in a 15 minutes, traffic permitting.

The backstory… Opened in 1963 during Rome’s La Dolce Vita heyday, the Rome Cavalieri was one of the city’s first true resort hotels, and that glamorous vibe remains. Its incredible art collection originated with art collector and first owner of the property, Angelo Guido Terruzzi, who installed and housed major works from his personal collection throughout the hotel (including a Tiepolo triptych, pieces by Warhol, and many rare decorative arts and tapestries), ultimately making it home to one of Europe’s most valuable private collections.

Today, it’s as remarkable for its art as it is for its beautiful views and pools. For adults, it feels like staying in a private museum, and for kids, there are even original stage costumes from productions like Sleeping Beauty framed and displayed throughout. Give my kids this over a Disney Princess brunch any day.

The vibe…  Luxe yet comfortable and welcoming. After a few weeks of traveling through Sicily where the rooms, views, and lobbies are undeniably beautiful but sometimes verge on the rustic or overly precious (thin pillows, questionable AC, breakable things!) Rome Cavalieri’s lush, plush interiors were a welcome change. The lobby bar is glam and gilded, yet not overly intimidating. You can sip your Negroni in peace, confident it’s totally acceptable if your child ditches their shoes under the table.

The rooms… The rooms very much lean into old-world European opulence, giving more palazzo than pared-back minimalism. Think silk wall coverings, brocade drapes, and Empire-style furnishings mixed with glossy marble bathrooms and private balconies. The ornate details are softened by plush textiles and generously-sized beds, which is exactly what’s called for after a day spent by the pool or exploring Rome. Many of the rooms have modern upgrades, but the overall feel remains grand and deeply comfortable.

The food & drink… We only had time for one dinner during our stay (sad!), which we spent at the lovely outdoor Patio 101, a casual al fresco spot tucked into the hotel’s private park. The service was great, and the menu felt thoughtfully designed for families, with shareable plates, kid-friendly pizzas, and simple seafood dishes that nod to seaside Italy without overcomplicating things. Next time, I’ll be gunning for a reservation at the coveted Michelin-starred La Pergola (the city’s first and only 3-Michelin Star restaurant), which was several floors above our room with dinner-table views I can’t even begin to fathom.

The wellness… I was so sad to not have the time to visit the spa personally, but I was able to get a peek during my tour, and the Cavalieri Grand Spa Club includes a full circuit of sauna, steam room, cold plunge, and an indoor pool beneath a glass dome. 

The other outdoor pools are tucked into the hillside next to the hotel, including a big, sun-splashed main pool that’s basically an all-day hang, and a more relaxed kids pool. There is also a proper and huge gym, tennis courts, and lots of space to actually move, which feels like a rarity in Rome. 

Is it kid-friendly? YES. As mentioned, there’s a dedicated kids’ pool, complete with a giant waterslide. The poolside menus are full of child-friendly options (fries, sandwiches, pizzas, the usual suspects). The classic Italian breakfast buffet was the stuff of my 3-year-old’s dreams (the offerings leaned a bit more “global” than your typical Italian hotel, but after two weeks in Italy, it was appreciated). The expansive grounds are also perfect for kids to explore and secluded enough to feel like an adventure, yet open enough that you can keep an eye on everyone. Add in the art, the service, the sheer sense of ease…It’s hard to find a place this indulgent that’s also so unfussy with children, but Rome Cavalieri hits the bullseye! 

Be sure to… The grounds alone are worth exploring with many quiet walking paths, big lawns, and the kind of wide-open space you don’t usually get in Rome. My husband is a runner and definitely took advantage of the hills and views for what I can imagine were some truly beautiful sunset runs.

To head into the city, don’t forget to hop on the hotel’s shuttle; it’s an easy, low-lift way to get right into Rome’s center without dealing with taxis or traffic logistics.

Parting words… The Rome Cavalieri is a fabulous find, especially if you’re traveling with younger cohorts. It’s a reliable hotel that feels unabashedly decadent yet warm and welcoming at the same time. With art at every turn, views to rival a postcard, a perfectly designed kid-friendly pool set-up, and grounds where kids can roam freely while adults relax nearby, it manages to be both iconic and a true family retreat.

Date of stay… August 31st, 2025

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In short… Tourists Welcome is a former roadside motor lodge turned design-forward yet low-key retreat in the Berkshires.

The surroundings… Close to North Adams’ incredible art institutions (MASS MoCA, The Clark, Williams College), but just enough off the beaten path to feel like you’ve escaped into the woods. 80 acres of trails and trees surround the property, which is punctuated with small surprises, i.e. a 220-foot suspension bridge across the Hoosic River; hidden paths dotted with art installations; so many trails! For such a small town, North Adams really packs in an astonishing amount of art.

The backstory… Tourists holds onto the stripped-back simplicity of its motor lodge past, but every detail has been reconsidered to feel alive with texture and warmth (but never overdone). 

The vibe… Unpretentious, grounded, slowed-down. It’s like a summer camp for adults, except replace the mess hall with a communal lounge where you can sip a martini by the fireplace while perched on a vintage Mario Bellini leather couch. Picture big windows, wood beams…everything feels sturdy, substantial, and made for hanging out. There are lots of corners to settle into, inside and out: for conversation, reading, lazing away the afternoon. One day we spent all afternoon at the pool, another reading in the lounge, and lots of time wandering the grounds. Shout-out to interior designer Julie Pearson, whose masterful eye for layering tactile, vintage pieces gives the whole property a lived-in, casually refined feel. 

The rooms… If Donald Judd designed your summer camp cabins? We stayed in the Ramble rooms, which are quiet, spacious, airy, and spare without feeling cold, and softened with little things that matter: huge, cloudlike king beds with fluffy down comforters. Custom robes waiting in the bathroom. Built-in window nooks, framed in big glass windows that look out to the woods. A blissful outdoor shower just outside the room. A good playlist streaming on the speakers when you walk inside. Also appreciated the smart, cloth-sewn covers to hide the TV!  

The food & drink… The lobby lounge is the kind of spot you can linger in all day… coffee, simple breakfasts, and a book in the morning, then drinks and snacks by the fireplace come evening (or outside on the big patio). Maybe it was because not a lot of local restaurants were open midweek (or maybe we just felt too comfortable to leave), but we were more than happy to stay put and eat at the hotel. Our dinner at the on-site restaurant, The Airport Room, was no-fuss but just right: bucatini with tomatoes and olives, seasonal crudo, a big green salad, and a solid wine list. Later, ginger tea and warm chocolate chip cookies outside under the stars.

Is it kid-friendly? Completely: plenty of trails and wide-open spaces to run around, plus a big pool surrounded by shaded loungers. 

Extra tip goes to… The front desk team, who couldn’t have been kinder. They researched swimming holes with us, organized in-room massages, and generally set the best vibe.

Be sure to… Claim your spot by a fire pit at night (and ask for a s’mores kit). Also, some of the museums are open daily, but be sure you check ahead—or go on the weekend—since a lot of the town shuts down on Monday/Tuesdays.

Parting words… The perfect long weekend escape: slow-paced but inspiring, low-key but still a destination. Definitely the place you can imagine making a tradition out of returning to. It would be especially cozy in fall or winter when the woods are covered in snow. 

Date of stay: August 17th–20th

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In short… Origins Lodge is a boutique eco-lodge in northern Costa Rica where barefoot luxury meets the wild. It’s a place where jungle immersion, sustainable living, and exceptional dining converge to create a stay that feels both grounding and indulgent.

The surroundings… Sitting high in the volcanic highlands, the lodge overlooks endless green stretching toward Lake Nicaragua. From misty treetops to firefly-lit paths, the setting is pure magic. Toucans swoop past the infinity hot tub, the scent of lemongrass and rain-soaked earth drifts through the air, and the forest’s buzzing soundtrack never stops with its chorus of insects and birds throbbing in unison.

The backstory… What started as a private home for French owner Thierry Le Goascoz became something more: a seven-lodge boutique hotel managed by Claudia Silva, whose background at properties like Mukul Nicaragua and Four Seasons Punta Mita shapes every detail of the guest experience. Born from a vision of luxury in harmony with the land, Origins is designed to showcase Costa Rica’s biodiversity while operating sustainably. Its organic gardens, natural pest control, and fishing lagoons all feed into a genuine farm-to-table ethos.

The vibe… Soulfully elegant. The atmosphere blends warmth and refinement—service is personal but never overbearing, design is lush yet minimal, and every space invites you to slow down and sink in.

The rooms… Each villa is its own sanctuary. Expect sweeping 180-degree views straight from your bed, private wood fire–heated hot tubs, and an effortless flow between indoors and outdoors. The effect is total immersion in nature without sacrificing comfort.

The food & drink… The culinary program alone is worth the trip. Think tropical fruit breakfasts, light and colorful lunches, and elaborate four-course dinners rooted in the land, utilizing the countless nearby farms. Standouts included an avocado salad with apple, lime and hibiscus; a pumpkin soup with sesame crumbles; and a mixed melon salad with shaved onion and herbs. Every meal feels vibrant, balanced, and deeply tied to place.

The wellness… Wellness here is more about nature than a traditional spa. Days unfold with hikes, horseback rides, stargazing walks, and swims in the amoeba-shaped infinity pool. Guests can also take guided tours of the gardens and nearby cacao plantations, practice yoga outdoors, book a deep-tissue massage, or simply soak in their private hot tub.

Is it kid-friendly? Yes—while the lodge is intimate and tranquil, families with curious young explorers will find plenty to keep them engaged, from birdwatching to waterfall hikes. Note: Origins Astral, with 7 larger family-friendly suites just up the mountain from the Lodge, is slated to open November 2025. The two spaces will operate independently but complement each other. 

Extra tip goes to… Ervin, who leads the garden and lagoon tours. His storytelling, warmth, and deep knowledge of the land turn a simple walk into an unforgettable experience.

Be sure to… Take a chocolate tour at the nearby Chocolatera de Volcán, a biodynamic producer that earned a Gold Medal at the 2023 Chocolate of Excellence competition. Here you’ll walk through the entire bean-to-bar process and even craft your own chocolate by hand.

Parting words… From the jungle symphony at dawn to peaceful dinners highlighting the land, it’s an experience that lingers long after you leave.

Date of stay… April 24-27, 2025

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In short… A rejuvenated 1950s beach retreat on the North Fork with a private sandy beach, exceptional food—and open year-round.

The surroundings… Unlike the Hamptons across the bay, the northeastern tip of Long Island has never really had a hotel that matched its low-key, maritime soul—until Silver Sands Motel & Beach Bungalows reopened in June 2023. Three hours from New York by train (less by car, traffic depending), the property sits on a quiet crescent of Pipe’s Cove, facing Shelter Island. Arrive by train and you’ll be picked up in a mint-green vintage Jeep Wagoneer, a perfect prelude to the lodgings’ throwback charm—turquoise painted shingles, the original neon Silver Sands MOTEL sign glowing overhead, and scattered white and yellow beach shacks and bungalows, most with nostalgia-tinged screened porches. To the rear, an 18-acre salt marsh buffers any noise pollution, while in front, all the rooms are stumbling distance from a 1,400-foot private beach. Silver Sands also stewards an offshore oyster farm in partnership with Oysterponds Shellfish Co, supplying its three restaurants and embodying the owner’s approach to responsible restoration connected to place. Native plantings, an osprey nest, a Purple Martin colony and frequent visits from egrets and cranes keep the place feeling alive and in harmony with its setting.

The backstory… When proprietor and creative director Alex Perros acquired Silver Sands from the Jurzenia family—who opened it in 1954, cultivated generations of loyal guests, and shuttered it during the pandemic—he made a clear decision: “We didn’t want to make a retro hotel. We wanted to rejuvenate it—to stay true to its roots,” he told me on a tour of the grounds. For Alex, a veteran real-estate developer with a focus on design-driven projects, that meant interpreting the ’50s through a modern lens: updating materials, softening the color palette, and adding comforts while keeping the spirit intact. He also bought a neighboring bungalow colony from the ’30s as well as a couple more recent builds on the lot, and merged it all into one 33-key property. The turquoise and Pepto-pink motel exterior was painted in more palatable versions of the hues, but the red geraniums in window boxes found their way back into the design— “a little consistency for longtime guests,” he said. Alex’s reverence for the place runs deep. Soon after buying Silver Sands, an older guest stopped by, saying she’d vacationed with her family in the same cottage for three decades. She recounted how her father had once glued seashells to a lamp, which her mother had rendered in an oil painting that had hung in the cottage for years. When Alex took her to the cottage—stripped bare during the reno—there was the painting, sitting on the mantel. “By the end, we were both in tears,” he said.

The vibe… Silver Sands’ design feels fresh, not retro-kitch. The interiors mix California beach house with East Coast cottagecore, and include playful nods to the past like the motel’s original room numbers painted on seashells, now framed in glass in the lobby. The former reception desk is now a bar (and the site of Friday and Saturday oyster shuckings), while the seating area under a pink ceiling is stocked with books and board games. When I stayed in mid-September, the beach chairs along the cove were mostly empty, but I can picture summer days being full of swimmers and sunbathers. Come winter, the rooms must be quiet and appealingly cozy places to hole up.

The rooms… We stayed in Plato’s Beach House, the largest on property, with 3 bedrooms, 3 baths and direct access to the sand (with an adjacent annex it can expand to 4 rooms). Designed by Alex’s wife, Anna, the interiors felt unfussy and bright—lemon and flower-print fabrics (coincidentally by my friend, the artist Wayne Pate, for Studio Four), seagrass rugs and rattan furniture, a mustard couch with piping and dust ruffle, and a touch of whimsy: a large black-and-white photograph of a woman reading Jaws. Bathrooms nod to the ’50s with pastel checkered tile and a large tub, but firmly planted in the present with soft Frette robes and Flamingo Estate products. The Smeg fridge and pantry were stocked with the preferences I’d listed before arrival—unsweetened iced tea and Diet Cokes—as well as a delicious homemade olive-oil cake, a fruit bowl with local grapes and sun-gold tomatoes, and snacks from local producers (Tate’s cookies, Bjorn Corn). Morning coffee arrives (on request) with The New York Times and the view of a quiet cove. Alex let me peek into Casa de Buddy, the other Beach House which has a very different vibe with ’70s flair, centered around a De Sede modular sofa, palm tree lamp, and giant photograph from Harper’s Bazaar shot there decades ago—Silver Sands and its nostalgic decay for years served as the backdrop for many a photo shoot. Unfortunately there was a corporate retreat on property during my stay, so I couldn’t lay eyes on the 2 2-BR bungalows, 8 white shingled beach shacks, or 20 motel rooms during our stay, but they all share similar bright and clean cottage vibes.

The food & drink… The food here punches far above its weight, thanks to 27-year-old executive chef Finn O’Hara, formerly of The Four Horsemen in Brooklyn. His North Fork roots show in a menu that feels grounded in the place—fresh, unfussy, and wildly flavorful.

Breakfast is at Nookies, the on-site retro diner, which can be delivered to your room—we had a perfect omelet, hash browns piled with smoked fish and sour cream, and blueberry pancakes.

The most competitive reservation is Eddie’s, the seasonal Mediterranean-inspired beachside restaurant with a raw bar, pizza oven, and tables scattered on a little bluff. We were lucky to catch it on closing weekend in September, and loved the local greens with fennel pollen, butterfish with capers and mint, and coconut ceviche served in its own shell—the sweet coconut meat offset the bright and spicy ceviche so well. And clearly Eddie’s hot dog with fennel relish is famous for a reason.

At Nookies for dinner—which was fully booked—we sat at the counter watching the kitchen turn out playful riffs on comfort food, elevated way above usual diner fare: tempura-battered green onions with anchovy dressing (“Bloomin Onions”), roasted corn manicotti, and tilefish in brothy beans with cilantro and leeks. It was fun to have a front-row seat to the activity, and the staff behind the counter was so friendly.

And finally, the newly opened Boathouse, in a rustically preserved wooden structure next to Eddie’s, opened the week after we left, and will now be a year-round restaurant with its own menu that honors the local fishing tradition—all weathered wood, salvaged buoys, and old nautical charm.

The wellness… I didn’t get to try the Salt Marsh Wellness Sanctuary, but it includes a steam room, sauna overlooking the marsh, cold plunge, and a treatment room. Guests can also borrow kayaks, paddleboards, and bikes for the easy ride into Greenport.

Is it kid-friendly? Very. The cove’s calm water makes it perfect for young swimmers, and the grounds are easy and safe enough for kids to roam independently—just the kind of freedom that makes family vacations so much easier.

Be sure to… Book a tour of the Pipe Cove oyster farm, the largest in New York State. (Greenport was once the oyster capital of the East Coast, home to 14 factories at its peak in the 19^th century.) I went out on the bay with Brian Tuthill of Oysterponds Shellfish Co., who described how they cultivate up to three million oysters a year—seeded in their Greenport nursery, then raised in metal cages across 15 acres of water. The farm has helped spawn wild oysters throughout the bay which, in turn, has helped clear the water (in that way that bivalves do) until it’s almost glassy. Now they’re collaborating with Cornell to help bring back the bay’s legendary scallops, which have mysteriously disappeared over the past decade.

If you can, follow the tour with an oyster tasting (or a Fri-Sat 5-7pm shucking night)—I got a tutorial from Phil Mastrangelo, founder of Oysterponds, who taught me how to slurp “naked” oysters properly: chew slowly with your molars, breathe through your nose, and you’ll start to taste the bay itself in the “merroir”—the sea vegetables and the minerality. The experience is paired with a pour from McCall’s Winery, which is worth a visit on its own.

Set in Cutchogue, McCall’s is a family-run vineyard on a former potato farm saved from development by Russ McCall and the Peconic Land Trust. A Francophile at heart, Russ and his wife planted pinot noir—everyone said it couldn’t grow here, but the North Fork’s cool sea breezes and sunny days proved them wrong. Today the 140-acre property produces elegant pinot, cabernet, and sauvignon blanc, all farmed regeneratively. They also raise white Charolais-Wagyu cattle, whose tender beef stars at their summer burger nights on Thursday and Friday evenings. I did a tasting in their beautifully restored 1787 barn, with nibbles from Russ’s fine-foods company—cheeses, charcuterie, dried fruit. 10/10 recommend!

Parting words… I have been to the Hamptons countless times and somehow—inexplicably and inexcusably—had never made it to the North Fork. Silver Sands was the perfect conduit to Greenport and the surrounding area, which feels vibrant with businesses that are drawing on local traditions to shape sustainable products and experiences for the area’s future. Honestly, I can’t wait to go back.

Date of stay… September 17-19, 2025

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The surroundings… Portman Square is in a very residential part of Marylebone, but so convenient to Chiltern Street shopping, Mayfair, and a five-minute walk to the Bond St. and Marble Arch tube stations. It’s a block from one of our favorite special occasion restaurants, Kol, and one our favorite spots for a bacon roll, Marble Arch News.

The vibe… Minimalist Japanese interiors with a 7-meter-tall kinetic sculpture by British artist Ivan Black at the center of the lobby. Because it’s a very open floor plan, it has a vibrant energy–there are a lot of people in the lobby having meetings, and in the adjacent bar area–so it feels alive. However, once you’re upstairs in your room, it’s the complete opposite.

The rooms… Cozy chic—we had a one-bedroom suite with oak-paneled walls and floor-to-ceiling windows, which meant lots of daylight even on a grey day. Japanese touches throughout—from the tea setup to the lighting fixtures. And so well soundproofed—we never heard anyone above or beside us, or anyone from the hall, or a beep from the street. 

The food & drink… When we’re in London, we rarely eat or drink in the hotel, but we did have lunch at Nobu and it was delicious—as expected! We aren’t breakfast people, but I did check out the buffet when I went there to grab a coffee. It was fine, but not great—I would have expected some Japanese options, but it was pretty standard fare. 

The wellness… They have a great daylit gym with lots of Technogym equipment and plenty of space to stretch. There are also two Pilates studios.

Date of stay… October 23-26, 2025

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In short… An easy getaway in the Riviera Nayarit, Rosewood’s newest Mexican outpost is well suited for adventure or unwinding, with design and experiences grounded in the region’s Indigenous art and healing traditions. 

The surroundings… Rosewood Mandarina sits on a stretch of sandy beach in the Riviera Nayarit, just north of popular towns Sayulita and San Pancho. Thanks to the new Guadalajara-Puerto Vallarta highway, which opened in late 2024, the area is now easier to reach than ever. The last time I visited this part of Mexico in 2023, it took nearly two hours on winding roads to reach the heart of the Riviera. This time, after landing at the Puerto Vallarta airport, I was met by Eduardo from the hotel and whisked off in a van equipped with wifi, refreshing towels, and a cooler stocked with Mexican beers. We cruised along the smooth new highway for about 40 minutes before peeling onto a winding road through a few miles of pineapple fields that led to the entrance of the Rosewood Mandarina complex. 

The vibe… In peak summer, the crowd was a mix of families and couples from the southern US and across Mexico who were smart to head to low-key Mandarina rather than Mallorca. The resort was pleasantly quiet: enough of a vibe to bump into New Yorkers at the bar who I shared mutual friends with, but peaceful enough to fall asleep to the sound of rain and tree frogs. The hotel only opened in April 2025, but I imagine winter will be much scene-ier, when the polo season picks up in November through May. 

The rooms… There are 134 suites and a handful of villas spread across three areas of the resort—beachfront, flatland, and oceanview—all with their own private pools and outdoor spaces. I stayed in a king suite in the flatlands area, which is in the center of the resort, set a bit back from the beach and an easy walk (or very short bike ride) to the main pools, restaurants, reception, spa and gym. Further down the beach are the beachfront suites, which look almost identical to the flatlands ones, but open directly onto the sand. The oceanview suites are the most secluded—set high on a hill that you reach by golf cart. They have the best views, in my opinion, though less of the convenience for walking around. 

The design is earthy and elemental—lots of stone, wood, and rope add texture to the sleek white and sand-hued interiors. Designer Caroline Meersseman drew inspiration from the region’s terrain and Indigenous Huichol and Cora cultures, and nearly every element was custom-made for the hotel by artisans from across Mexico and Latin America. Huichol beadwork, embroidery, and yarn art add color throughout, alongside Cora-inspired fiberwork, like the rope-lined ceilings and walls in the reception areas and La Cocina. 

I appreciated all the thoughtful details in my room: fresh limes in the minibar (in case I wanted to crack open a Corona or mix a fresh margarita); local snacks and spirits; a beach bag and umbrella by the door; aluminium bottles of mosquito repellent and after-sun; and sweet touches like a dream journal and eye mask left out at turndown. Housekeeping even noticed that I had moved the shampoo and conditioner to the private outdoor shower from the indoor one, and moved the stack of towels to a stone table outside for me.

The food & drink… There are plenty of restaurants to try, but the heart of the resort is La Cocina, which serves traditional Mexican fare all day. My first bite of the weekend was the guacamole, and if that was any indication (isn’t it always in Mexico?), this was going to be good. It came topped with two wedges of grilled watermelon and served alongside palm-sized blue-corn tortilla strips, made fresh on the restaurant’s woodfired comal. 

And remember those miles of pineapple fields we passed on the drive in? That’s what showed up in the fruit platter at breakfast the next morning. Much of the produce comes straight from the hotel’s own massive organic farm, or from those nearby. I ordered the fruit plate every day and came home googling “where to find fresh mamey in NYC.” Turns out it’s very hard to find,  so I’ll just have to go back! 

Down the beach to the right of La Cocina is Buena Onda, a Spanish-inspired restaurant that feels like a very sleek xiringuito: a dozen or so tables right on the sand beneath palm trees and string lights, and a bar with the coolest woven curtains I’ve ever seen. 

Head the other way and you’ll reach Allora, an oceanfront Italian restaurant, and Chukker, an Argentine grill overlooking the full-sized polo field (more on that later). Toppu, a sushi bar up the hill by El Bulli alum Diego Muñoz, opened shortly after my stay, but I got to peek inside the stunning space which has fantastic views and an open irori kitchen. Barra Peñasco, a hidden cocktail bar carved into the cliff, is set to open later this fall. 

For even more options, guests can dine at the restaurants at the One&Only down the road or head to the nearby towns of Sayulita and San Pancho, both a short drive away.  

The wellness… The Asaya Spa offers treatments rooted in Huichol and Cora healing traditions, all in a serene space centered around two ancient parota trees. After a visit to the sauna and cold plunge, I had a massage that incorporated herbal bags of tobacco, spices and essential oils pressed onto my skin to clear toxins and stimulate circulation. I was also intrigued by a treatment designed for deep rest that is inspired by local shamanic traditions and includes breathwork and a peyote balm, but after being gently tossed around in the ocean for a few hours, I was already in a kind of waking dreamstate. 

The gym is well equipped, with new Technogym machines overlooking a lush garden and a neighboring studio for yoga and Pilates. One afternoon we took out kayaks and SUPs and went for a float; another morning, we went on a tranquil beach ride with a horse Kendall Jenner rode in a Vogue shoot. For more advanced riders, there’s a wildly impressive equestrian club with dozens of horses, separate jumping and dressage arenas, and a tournament-sized polo field that draws jockeys from all over the world, as well as local players for matches during peak season. 

I found spending nearly every waking moment outdoors equally restorative. Most buildings are open-air, and at check out, I realized I’d hardly been “indoors” aside from sleeping. The wildlife here is amazing: when I first heard there were crocodiles on the property, I thought it sounded like a White Lotus scene waiting to happen—but I only saw them while standing above the estuary where they live, at the far end of the beach. I did, however, spot a handful of coatis, turtles, and birds (and heard whales can be spotted in winter). I enjoyed seeing the massive mature trees that buildings were clearly constructed around, the wild vegetation, and hearing the symphony of frogs, birds, and whatever else was chirping, tweeting, and croaking in the mornings and at night.

  The kid-friendly factor… Their “Explorers Club” is right next to La Cocina, in the center of the resort. The flatlands rooms are best suited for families with younger children because of their proximity to the beach, restaurants, and the very chic kids club. You can easily pull your kids out for lunch at La Cocina next door, or, if a meltdown hits while on the beach, retreat back to your room steps away. 

For older kids (and grown-up ones), there’s no shortage of things to do: surfing, hiking, kayaking, zip-lining, horseback riding, playing tennis, taking polo lessons, or hitting the Greg Norman-designed golf course. 

Be sure to… order the fruit plate at breakfast. 

Extra tip goes to… The butler team! Each guest is assigned a duo of butlers who look after you during your stay and are just a WhatsApp message away—ready to book reservations or excursions, coordinate golf cart pick ups/drop offs around the property, arrange babysitting services, special dinners, or anything else you can dream up. The whole team was so genuinely warm—I stubbornly never wanted to call for a golf cart and preferred to walk everywhere, but no one ever drove by me without offering a ride and a friendly “buenos días”.

Dates of stay… July 16-20, 2025

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In short… A beautiful Provençal estate with a farmhouse feel, more bastide than hotel (you’re in France). Think countryside hamlet – sprawling gardens, winding pathways, aesthetically perfect pools and plenty of space to spread out, with privacy all around.

The surroundings… Far-reaching vineyards, lavender fields and cobblestoned towns to pop into for a cappuccino. Renting a car is best for getting around, though with the Marseille airport nearby, you’re still well-connected. This is the kind of place you’ll want to stay put in – or at least balance days of flopping by the pool with trips to Provence’s prettiest towns (Lourmarin and Lacoste, for starters).

The vibe… You’re left to your own devices, with the team just a text away. Beaumier’s discreet, in-the-background service is there if you want it, but never hovering. Young families with newborns, Provence-hopping couples and chic French friends all know what this spot provides: good food, good wine, warm hospitality and a beautiful setting. It really does feel like a village within a village. Outside guests might drop in for a Michelin-starred dinner or simply a game of pétanque with a glass of vin rouge.

The rooms… As with other Beaumier properties, branding and local artisans are put front and center (a funky house bottle of wine was waiting for our apéro). Every room opens onto its own outdoor nook – some with garden seating, others more snug and close to neighbours. After a recent renovation, French duo JAUNE and A.S.L Paris gave interiors a fresh lift: high ceilings, bold orange tiles, comfortable beds and charming views. Rooms you actually want to spend time in, between swims, feasts and outdoor cinema nights.

The wellness… In 2024, the spa was expanded with a hammam, Roman bath and more Biologique Recherche treatments. While the outdoors remains the real star, I had a blissful massage and lymphatic facial in a lavender-filled room that set me up for the day.

The food & drink… Breakfast at La Bergerie alone is worth waking up for: pastries, eggs made to order, thick-cut wedges of cheese, sliced meats, fresh fruits and towering mounds of butter. The same restaurant serves Provençal plates for lunch and dinner – one tomato tart was so good we ordered it twice. For something fancier, book La Bastide (closed Mondays), which the team insist is one to come back for.

Be sure to… Wander into Bonnieux, the nearest hilltop town, just 15 minutes on foot. It’s classic Provençal pretty: church spires, rolling Luberon views, tucked-away wine bars (we loved Le Wine Club by D).

Parting words… Capelongue is about doing less, not more. Flop by the pool, play a round of padel, or hop in the car for a countryside spin. So take your time.

Date of stay… August 2025

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In short… A sleek and sumptuous stay in a historic Art Deco building that just might, on its own, make a case for visiting Casablanca.

The surroundings… Morocco’s largest port and commercial capital isn’t usually at the top of travelers’ leisure lists, though arguably it should be. While it looks nothing like the Hollywood mirage (the film was shot on a studio lot), the real city has its own magnetism: gleaming white Art Deco facades, a maze-like old medina, a seaside promenade—the Croisette—shared by joggers and beachgoers, and the magnificent Hassan II Mosque towering over the Atlantic. The Royal Mansour Casablanca sits near all of it, in the Le Petit Paris district, a palm-lined boulevard of white modernist buildings laid out by French planners during the protectorate era (1912-56).

The backstory… The hotel originally known simply as El Mansour was designed by French architect Jean François Zevaco and opened in 1953 as the city’s first 5-star property. Decades later, it was acquired by the Moroccan royal family and reimagined, 14 years after the Royal Mansour Marrakech, as a showcase of Moroccan craftsmanship, design and hospitality. In Casablanca, the vision was also to help transform the country’s bustling port city into a true vacation destination. After an eight-year renovation, the Royal Mansour Casablanca reopened in April 2024 with a quietly opulent design (including 70 kinds of marble!), while staying true to Zevaco’s original spirit, down to the nostalgic red window awnings. Locals, I was told, still stop by to visit the lobby patio, once known as the “winter garden,” where they remember sipping hot chocolate with their grandparents.

The vibe… Classy not flashy. Where Royal Mansour Marrakech feels like a living museum of Moroccan craft—zellige tile, chiseled stucco, carved cedar—Casablanca is sleeker and more urbane. At the tower’s corner entrance, uniformed guards in fedoras stand at attention with royal formality, but once inside, the mood is welcoming and even cinematic. Well-dressed guests and locals sit or mill about the light-filled marble lobby, which is centered around a movie-screen-size aquarium and a chandelier of 600 glass fish, both nods to the city’s maritime history. At the sultry lobby-level Bar Diplomate, a tiled mosaic mural of the city recalls its 1950s heyday. I especially loved the four Art Deco-style elevators with retro floor dials, which open and close so silently you need to bust a move to get in before being swept up to your room.

The rooms… The room I stayed in, 1705, is one of the hotel’s 13 Signature Suites (there are 149 rooms and suites in total), with sweeping views over Casablanca’s rooftops and, in the distance, the towering Hassan II Mosque. With curved mahogany and inlaid brass wrapping the walls and custom furnishings, the suite at first reads masculine and slightly corporate—in fact, every room comes with a valet stand, watch winder in the closet, and even a printer and shredder built into the desk. But the vibe softens in the details: the palette of moss green and aubergine, the analog brass light switches that are (so rare!) easy to use, handblown glassware in sultry colors, and even a leather-wrapped Nespresso machine with large (hooray) ceramic coffee mugs were all perfection. Useful for longer stays: a small pantry with both a wine fridge and proper refrigerator. My favorite space was the large bathroom, which felt glamorously wrapped in streaked marble with the shower and toilet areas divided by panels of patterned cut glass (even the hand-soap is dispensed in a heavy crystal decanter). It’s sumptuous but not ostentatious, all just beautifully made.

I also got a voyeuristic peek into the Royal Suite—a 1,200 square-meter, 4-bedroom apartment with its own elevator lined in Hermès-style stitched leather, a private gym, and an insane view of the city all the way to the sea. Fit for actual royalty, Hollywood royalty, or those aspiring, it felt impeccably refined without being OTT.

The food & drink… The hotel’s four restaurants each nod to local culture. I had lovely lunch at The Brasserie, an all-day French-inspired restaurant on the ground floor atrium, a leafy and peaceful fountain-cooled courtyard serving refined and locally sourced comfort food—green beans and artichoke salad followed by a delicious sole from Daklha “a la plancha.”

Dinner on my first night was at Le Sushi Bar on the lobby level, which draws a local crowd for chef Keiji Matoba’s elaborate omakase menu. I wasn’t that hungry after my late lunch, so they offered to make me a lunch-only bento box—possibly the best I’ve ever had, a jewel box of tempuras, maki and sushi, finished with the creamiest rice pudding with coconut and mango. If you order sake, you can choose between three shapes of glasses, each designed to enhance the flavor.

The other two restaurants are on the 23^rd floor, with panoramic views from every angle. Le Rooftop, the Mediterranean option, was closed for renovation, but Le Grand Table Marocain (a sibling of Marrakech’s flagship restaurant) was fantastic: live traditional music, hearty couscous and savory tajines, and a pigeon pastilla baked in a flaky pastry with almonds that was insanely good. Unlike the nearby Four Seasons, which can’t serve alcohol due to its proximity to the Mosque, the Royal Mansour has a 25,000-bottle cellar, and I definitely enjoyed my Moroccan white wine. It happened to be my birthday, and while I could barely handle the thought of dessert, the staff appeared with a rich chocolate cake and the musicians led everyone in a rousing happy birthday.

The wellness… The spa, spread across two floors (4 and 5), feels like a fantasy of a queen’s boudoir—curved pink-and-cream marble with brass details, eight treatment rooms, a hammam, soaking pool and salon. I was exhausted after a weeklong conference in Marrakech, and Melody, my therapist, delivered the most intuitive “Infinite Sensoriality” massage using Maroc-Maroc products, finishing with a facial treatment that was so effective, she showed me the visible lift halfway through. There’s also a 24/7 fitness studio with Matrix equipment, boxing sessions, and the first La Barbiere de Paris outpost outside France, run by Paris’ pioneering female barber.

Is it kid-friendly? They don’t explicitly cater to children, but I suspect kids would be very happy here.

Be sure to… Take a city tour with one of the hotel’s exceptional guides. I skipped the street art and food tours for a broader city overview, led by Naima, who was knowledgeable, efficient, and very chicly dressed. We covered a huge amount of ground in a spotless Mercedes EQS driven by Siham, our female driver. Highlights included the stunning Hassan II Mosque—the world’s second largest after Mecca, completed in 1993 after six years and $1.5 billion, with its spectacular tile façade, titanium doors, carved wooden ceilings, and 42 marble ablution fountains; the Corniche, which feels almost LA-like with kids playing ball and families wading in the surf; the historic Jewish Quarter, where we stopped at a local bakery just as the call to prayer filled the narrow streets; and a final stop in Le Petit Paris for craft and argan oil shopping.

Parting words… Casablanca might not be a must-see for everyone, but the Royal Mansour makes a persuasive case for experiencing Morocco’s urban, commercial side—ideal as a gateway to or from Marrakech (a high-speed train is in the works). And the value’s impressive in low season, with entry-level deluxe rooms starting at around $640/night, a level of pampering that’s hard to beat.

Date of stay… September 13-15, 2025

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In short… This charming Moroccan-meets-Mediterranean retreat is an outlier in Mid-Mod Palm Springs, with whitewashed villas, bougainvillea-draped archways, antiques-filled rooms and other romantic details, just steps from downtown.

The backstory… Half of Korakia Pensione was originally built by Scottish painter Gordon Coutts in the 1920s as a home and artists’ retreat to recreate his life in Tangier. Formerly called Dar Marroc, the bungalows surrounding a small pool and splashing fountain hosted visiting artists, musicians and actors including Rudolph Valentino and Errol Flynn. It survived a later incarnation as a hotel after that, until “petite resort” hotel brand Auric Road acquired it, along with a 1930s Mediterranean villa and historic adobe home across the street that were once owned by an early silent screen star. Together they comprise the new resort, with guests easily walking back and forth between them. The newest addition to the property is Auric House, a private social club in a 1930s Spanish Revival home nearby.

The surroundings… The property spans a quiet street in Palm Spring’s historic Tennis Club neighborhood, with a backdrop of the San Jacinto Mountains and slender palm trees springing from the peaceful courtyard. It’s hard to believe that it’s just a few minutes’ walk from downtown. The hotel also has a cute Moke to ferry guests in if you prefer not to walk or drive.

The vibe… is refreshingly un PS-like—not a touch of modernism anywhere. Entering through a Moorish arched entrance into a riad-like courtyard with a splashing fountain, you immediately feel ensconced: a small and pretty pool at the center, flanked by low whitewashed villas with a small bar and fireplace to one side. It’s pretty and peaceful and I never saw more than three or four guests lounging here at a time. Completing the enchanting picture are colorful floral and succulent gardens that grow around small seating areas hung with metal lanterns, which twinkle at night. Across the street and through a small gate on the Mediterranean side, the property opens onto a raked sand courtyard connecting a southern-European style villa and the Orchard House, an original 1918 adobe within a citrus grove and outdoor stone fireplace. This side also has a public space with a fire pit and outdoor living room of couches and cushions arranged on a Persian rug, where classic movies are projected onto a wall in the evenings.  

The rooms… There are only 28 guest rooms total—16 on the Mediterranean side and 13 on the Moroccan side. We stayed in the Artist Studio, which was Coutt’s own atelier that he built with tall, north-facing atelier windows. All the paintings currently in the room were painted by various guest-artists, including one that sits half-finished on an easel. The room seems to tell a story of its former inhabitant, with a kitchenette, long red velvet couch (you can imagine a model reclining on it) and other eclectic antiques—a carved wooden bed frame and leather armchair, and a turntable (which all of the rooms have) that we used to play Fleetwood Mac Rumors and Janis Joplin’s Greatest Hits on repeat. The minibar is stocked with local CA brands of tortilla chips, salsa, energy bites, as well as Ghia, Olipop and a bottle of Joel Gott red wine. The chocolate covered strawberries at turndown were a lovely touch.

The food & drink… With no coffee machines in the rooms, they bring you coffee or tea in a thermos to your door on request, a perfect wake-up call. Breakfast is the only meal cooked here and is served in the courtyard in front of the hotel under a big olive tree, which feels like a Greek taverna with wooden tables covered in striped tablecloths and bowls of oranges. The food leans healthy-California, and the technicolor hues of it all—the “Rawnola with Blue Majic” (oats and almond milk with spirulina and fresh fruit)—eaten under the bluest sky and swaying palms—felt like a mirage. The little pool bar is for guests only (so never crowded) and is a lovely spot in late afternoons to sip the house specialty Dar Marroc, made with a Moroccan fig spirit, pomegranate juice, rosewater, mint and lime. Lunch and dinner can be ordered from local Eight4Nine restaurant, but there are countless restaurants within a close drive or walk. Melvyn’s, the old-school icon, is practically around the corner, and we had a great dinner of Caesar salad, steak, martinis and bananas foster flambéd at the table—a dose of old-Hollywood style.

The wellness… There are a few group activities to join at will—yoga on Saturday mornings, sound meditation baths on Wednesdays (sadly I missed both!), and guided hikes to Tahquitz Canyon. Treatments can be booked in the small spa on the Mediterranean Villa side, which I also missed, though if I come back I’m definitely down for the “vibrational scalp treatment.” They also provide loaner Linus bikes, which are a great way to ride into town for a date shake.

Is it kid-friendly? Nope, adults only.

Be sure to… Stay a few days—there is so much to do in the area and it’s the perfect combination of nature and culture activities. Definitely consult our YOLO Palm Springs List for inspiration! And Korakia has a bound notebook in each room full of suggested activities in the area, from shopping to dining to hikes.

We saw a career-spanning David Hockney exhibit (months before the Paris exhibit opened), at the Palm Springs Art Museum, whose permanent collection of modern art rivals that of many major city museums. Definitely get the double ticket to also enter the Architecture and Design Center, in a glass-and-steel building designed as a bank by E. Stwart Williams in 1961 (the gift shop is in the bank vault). It features rotating design exhibits, but worth it to watch the videos of the Desert Modernists who shaped Palm Springs.I also highly recommend taking a Palm Springs Architecture tour with Michael Stern. The itinerary changes each time based on what houses he can get into, but his deep connections (he wrote the book, Hollywood Modern) open doors—though you do need a car, as you drive in a slow caravan and call into a conference line to hear him narrate local histories and architectural sites. We popped into one of the William Krisel small modernist houses (privately owned), did a drive by of Neutra’s Kaufman House, and got to explore Albert Frey’s stunning 1964 Frey House II, a compact 800-square-foot steel-frame home built so light on the land that a large boulder juts into the center of it.

Parting words… A totally delightful, low-key, and charming hotel that I would definitely stay at again.

Date of stay… March 14-16, 2025

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