I started getting in the cold water 3 years ago. It was the start of the pandemic and I’d become curious if it was possible to shift, even fundamentally change, one’s identity. I spent most of my life saying out loud “I hate the cold.” It was a deep-bone fear from age 13, when I went camping in the Adirondacks and shivered all night, too shy to ask for help. This is a very limiting belief, especially in New England. I hate the cold means I stay away from activities, adventures, and experiences. Life. I decided to explore how sturdy this self-definition was. As it turns out, the way we define ourselves is very changeable. So now I seek out the cold—in specific, cold water—wherever I travel. Here are four favorite dip trips.
North of Boston/Newburyport
Getting in the water here is a privilege. The Merrimack River was originally the home of the Pennacook, part of a confederacy of Algonquin tribes that occupied the basin of the Merrimack and adjacent regions in New Hampshire. They called this area “Natukhog,” or Naticook. The word “Merrimack” comes from an Abenaki term meaning either “the place of strong current” or “a sturgeon.” I can vouch for both strong current and sturgeon here. This 115-mile river, once endangered, is in the process of healing. What drew indigenous people to the waterway also drew early settlers and later, during the Gilded Age, American entrepreneurs. Newburyport is the last stop on the river before it reaches the Atlantic. This is where we get in, a quirky little spot at the Salisbury Campground, where the water is usually quiet by the big river. I feel as if this river has many stories and that it is our responsibility to protect it.
In mid-December, the last time I was here, it was 19F degrees outside; the water read 42. It was before sunrise when I drove to our little cozy cove. As I got out of the car, my nostrils froze. As I often do, I had to remind myself that I want to do this. Then I looked east to the glow of the sunrise and thought, I wouldn’t have seen any of this if I were still in bed. Sometimes I have even said out loud “I see you. I feel your fear. I’m going in.” The beach is gentle and generous. This morning, there were 13 seals just off the beach, poking their heads up. We will often hear them snort and exhale, as if to say, Welcome.
I donned the gear that I’ve adopted over the course of many a cold morning: neoprene booties, swimsuit, cozy hat and mittens for in the water. Once out: towel, big swim coat, wool sweater, warm bevi in the car, where I change out of my suit. It’s challenging for the body to get back to baseline temperature in a cold, wet swimsuit. “Afterdrop” is no joke: the phenomenon of your body temperature continuing to drop even after you get out of cold water. Therefore, a 5 minute dip + 5 minute change at the beach + 3 minute walk to the car is actually a 13-minute plunge. This is important to remember when in the water.
When we get out, we usually head over to Middle Street Foods for a hot beverage or, depending on the time of day, go to Sunset Club for poke bowls and trivia, or Joppa Fine Foods for a glorious snack. Newburyport is a sweet little seaside community with a few charming hotels: Blue Inn and The Garrison Inn (which has an incredible tea room, Lady Fingers Tea Lounge), an elegant, well-curated bookstore Illume, and some sweet boutiques Salt and Grove, Red Bird Trading and Wishbasket.
San Francisco/Marin/Sausalito
A dear friend introduced me to a little family-friendly beach in Sausalito with easy access, protected waters and rowers nearby—Schoonmaker Beach. I care deeply for this person, so when I get in the water, I often think of him. There is energy in every body of water—tap into it.
This is the water that connects San Francisco Bay to the Pacific Ocean. It is defined by the headlands of the San Francisco Peninsula and the Marin Peninsula and, since 1937, is spanned by the Golden Gate Bridge. Despite being in a very populated area of Marin, there is a lot of wild in this water. One night, I got in and swam out a bit so that I would be in the water as the big full moon rose over Angel Island. Rowdy. Bright. Bold. Unapologetic. I dare say incredibly sexy. It was as if all the world’s energy was right there.
I swim with a group that gets in the water every morning, @ebb.and.flow.collective.sf. It is a loving, brave, wild, smart and welcoming community. It is amazing what happens when you do something hard together. You are bonded. After we get out, many of us go on over to Equator Coffee for steamy hot chai with frothy milk and a cardamon fika bun. It is delicious chai. Because we arrive all lit up after our dip and must look and sound very joyous, we have inspired some of the local regulars to get in with us! Sausalito has some wonderful places to visit when you are there: SALT boutique, Sushi Ran, Heath Ceramics, and Karl the Store, Fish.
Iceland
Getting in the water in Iceland was an entirely different game. Unfamiliar with the ecosystem, I needed to introduce myself to the water. Deep bow. We were 50 miles north of the Arctic Circle—66 North—and the water felt different. Clear, crystal clear, vibrant and bright. This water has traveled from the glaciers; I imagined that it was hundreds of years old. Each body of water has its own history and therefore its own personality. This water was peaceful, patient, historic, foundational and also fierce.
I was grateful to be getting in with my wonderful mermaid friends, Sarah and Claire. We had been in many bodies of water together on our dip trips, and this felt transportive. We were silent each time we got in. It felt like a profound privilege to be here. Ultimately it reminded us that we can do hard things, we need to embed play into our days and doing it together is where the magic of life resides.
A few absolutely lovely places to visit and things to see in Iceland: Element Hotel, Fishershund, the South coast, Isafjourdur. The best seafood restaurant I’ve ever been to is Tjöruhúsið; Simbahollin had the best waffles anywhere; Gudbjorg Lind Jonsdottir is a breathtaking photographer whose work was hanging in the waffle house. There are also cold exposure classes taught by Eva at Hvammsvik, and a legendary women’s swim group at Nauthólsvík Beach.
Sweden
I landed in Kiurna in the afternoon—the northernmost city in Sweden, in the province of Lapland, about 100 miles north of the Arctic Circle. It’s home to the famous Icehotel, Sweden’s highest mountain, Kebnekaise, and to the world’s largest underground iron-ore mine. Kiruna is well-known for its well-preserved natural and cultural landscape, majestic mountains, glaciers, unregulated national rivers, over 6,000 lakes, and is the traditional home of the indigenous Sámi people.
Every body of water has a personality. There is consciousness in it. This water felt very pure and fresh; it didn’t lie—it was just wild and unapologetically cold cold cold. I almost didn’t want to get in because it felt so refined and clean.
The Väkkärä lodge cut a hole in the ice for us and put oil lanterns around the edge of the opening. It was literally breathtaking. While the actual temperature of the water was familiar (0C/32F), the environment was so raw, harsh and wild it felt colder getting in. In my head was the narrative, “You are 100 miles north of the Arctic Circle you ding-dong, what are you doing? You used to hate the cold. Maybe you still do?!” But in I got, and I am so happy I did. I don’t know how long I stayed in. It doesn’t matter.
People often ask, How long do you stay in? The answer is it depends. It is completely variable depending on air and water temperature, wind conditions, whether I feel hydrated, well-rested, or depending on my mood, time of day or the month.
My body is my guide, not the clock. I am learning to listen and trust my body. It knows how long I should stay in. I have also been attending to this practice now for several years, so have quite a bit of experience and can read the signals. A note: staying in longer is not better. “When you are calm, you are done.” – @breathe.my.power
TAKING THE (COLD) PLUNGE
1. Start with small steps. Cold showers. Add 15 seconds at the end of your shower each day until you reach a few minutes of cold water.
2. See if you can find someone to join you—having a buddy is fun and safe. Also check the hashtag #coldexposure to find groups near you.
3. Do some research on cold water exposure. Read resources. There are many articles and videos about the practice.
4. Consult your doctor before starting a cold-plunge practice.
5. Wear and bring the right gear.
- Neck gaiter, mittens, two hats: one for the dip and one for when you get out.
- Rechargeable pocket heaters (here)
- Something to stand on when you get out. The sand is cold. An old bath mat is great.
- Water bottle with warm water to rinse your feet.
- Closed-toed slip-on shoes (Voited are great), not flip-flops, to make sure toes get covered. It’s helpful if they slip on so they’re easy to get on cold feet.
- Wool/cashmere sweater to put on immediately after your suit comes off
- Easy-on pants with no elastic at bottom. A poly fabric is helpful—wet legs stick to cotton.
- Gill zip-up booties: I find it almost impossible to get neoprene booties/socks on and off when really cold. Zip on/off makes this moment much easier.
- Old man socks. GOLDTOE Men’s Windsor Wool Over-The-Calf Dress Socks, 3-Pairs No, they don’t provide any warmth. They simply make it a lot easier to get the booties on and off when hands are cold.
- Invest in an easy-to-wear coat that covers your arse. @voited is great and my favorite mermaids have a 15% off code
WADING IN
1. Start with a quick dip. Get in the water, say hello, get out. No more than 1 minute is our guideline (below 50F)
2. Breathe. Focus on your breath. Find your calm.
3. As you approach the water, make sure you have clear intention and honestly, just get in. Don’t noodle around. It doesn’t get easier if you wait.
4. Dip with your mittens. You don’t have to put your hands in the water—you can wear mittens and keep them under your chin. If do put your hands in, use your underarms to keep them warm. I often keep mine out when it gets below a certain temperature.
5. Try to get to a place of calm in your body, of presence. Listen to the water around you. Notice the details of where you are. It is easy to get overwhelmed by the temperature, but the temperature is actually a focusing agent. Use it. Focus. Welcome to right now.
6. Remember, you are safe. You can get out whenever your body is done.
7. Staying in longer isn’t “better.” Listen to your body. The more you do this practice, the more you will understand the messages your body is signaling. Remember it is ok to be uncomfortable.
8. Have fun. And enjoy the lessons embedded in the cold water.
APRÈS FREEZE
1. Have a place you consistently keep your car keys. It stinks to get to your car shivering cold and not know which pocket they’re in.
2. Keep a warm drink and some extra warmies in your car. I keep a sleeping bag and extra hat/mittens.
3. Support your body in getting back to baseline/warm. Remember the AfterDrop. Have layers ready when you get out and take off your wetsuit. Then move around, dance, to help your body to warm up naturally.
4. Take care of yourself. Take care of each other. Take care of your beach. Take care of the water.
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