
It wasn’t until around 2015 that I started visiting Hawai‘i. As an East Coaster, it always felt so far—Europe was just easier, with London only a seven-hour flight from NYC. But my aunt and uncle live high up in the Kona Coffee Belt on the Island of Hawai‘i, where you can literally smell coffee roasting as you wind your way to their house. My aunt, who’s Hawaiian-Chinese, was born and raised in Honolulu on O‘ahu, and after my first visit, I was hooked. Hawai‘i had this magnetic pull—the spirit of the islands was undeniable, and I kept finding reasons to return. I’ve since spent significant time on all the islands (yes, even the quieter ones like Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i). While I love them all for different reasons, Maui has carved out a special place in my heart. And the food scene? Let’s just say it’s far more than poke bowls and mai tais.
Last year, I spent about six weeks on Maui, slowly traveling around the island, letting its rhythms and flavors sink in. I even wrote a cookbook, To Lahaina, With Love, filled with remarkable stories of chefs, purveyors, farmers, fishermen, and hunters who came together to feed and care for the community during the devastating Lahaina wildfires in 2023. All proceeds from the book go directly to Fresh Help Maui, supporting ongoing efforts to feed displaced Lahaina residents. The recipes are mouthwatering, but the heart of the book is the community spirit it captures. Creative director Melissa Padilla, photographer Kevin J. Miyazaki, and I spent a week driving around the island for the photo shoot, tasting each dish firsthand—it was unforgettable.
The most common question I get from friends these days is whether it’s okay to visit Maui, specifically Lahaina, after the fires. The short answer: yes, and they need support through tourism now more than ever. While Lahaina’s full rebuild will take time, you can safely visit the waterfront, where several restaurants and shops are open and ready to welcome visitors.
As a culinary-focused journalist, my passion is—and always will be—food and drink. Maui’s vibrant flavors and community-centered dining keep me coming back, and I can’t wait to share some of my favorite spots with you.
SLEEP

Fairmont Kea Lani – The island’s only all-suite hotel and my home away from home. A recent refresh means bright, breezy, beachy rooms (the ocean-facing ones have the best lanais, perfect for breakfast in-room with a view). I usually stop by MAKANA Market, which has the coolest selection of all-local snacks, drinks, and Hawaiian-made products, for a honey lavender latte and acai bowl to take to the beach for a mindful sunrise. It’s also home to one of my favorite bars on the island: Pilina. If you’re lucky and Cam Hall, the bar’s GM, is there, he might make you the now off-menu Āina, the Hawaiian word for ‘land’—a delicious riff on the Negroni where rum, Campari, sweet vermouth, and a grilled banana come together in a glass. Cam visited all of the islands’ distilleries and many farms to pull together a 90% local bar menu where you can literally drink the islands.
Historic Wailuku Inn – If you haven’t spent time in Wailuku Town, I strongly suggest checking into this newly renovated inn for a couple of nights to get to know one of my favorite areas of the island. Plus, there’s a charming outdoor area filled with vibrant orange and yellow-hued flowers and lush greenery that’s perfect for coffee sipping and getting lost in a book. In Wailuku, be sure to visit Caramiya, a local fashion designer, pattern drafter, and painter I first met in real life on Ischia. Next to Caramiya is Hallowed Home, Laura Night’s equally amazing mocktail bar and metaphysical shop. For breakfast, don’t miss out on SixtyTwo MarcKet—everything is divine.
Hotel Wailea– No kids, repeat: no kids. A super gorgeous adults-only Relais & Châteaux property in Wailea. It’s where I check in when I want privacy and peace. I usually don’t leave the property, not even for the beach. The in-room minibar, which is included, is full of Spindrift waters and local snacks—and the restaurant is a must. The last time I was there, I did the Kitchen Table experience, where you sit in the kitchen with the chefs for a 5-course tasting menu. I’d go back just for the lilikoi pancakes at breakfast and the oversized poolside daybed cabana situation.
Iao Valley Inn– The Iao Valley is a sacred place where I retreat to clear my head and write. The inn, run by my friend Kainoa’s parents, is a special, secret escape amidst lush greenery and the Wailuku River. Morning coffee on the lanai with misty valley views? Yes, please.
Royal Lahaina Resort – Maui’s first-ever resort, which opened in Kāʻanapali in 1962, recently underwent a super cool renovation. Think Palm Springs meets Slim Aarons vibes with all the Hawaiian charm—oceanfront property, tiki torches, and swaying palms. It’s got direct access for morning dips and sunset strolls. It’s a toss-up between the bungalows and the rooms in elevation with stunning views. I can’t get enough of the purple ube cocktail with Koloa rum and toasted coconut and the Mochi-Crusted Mahi Mahi at Lahaina Noon.
EAT + DRINK

Spots from the cookbook
Coco Deck Kitchen + Bar – Chef Alvin Savella’s new waterfront spot in Lahaina is a must. I learned during the cookbook photoshoot that Hawaiians add mayonnaise to their chili, and honestly, I don’t know why we aren’t all doing this. Never leave without ordering a poke donut—they disappeared so fast after Kevin shot them for the book.
Spoon & Key – Super cool spot in Wailea that’s casual during the day and offers everything from caviar service, spritzes, wagyu burgers, and roasted chicken on select dinner nights.
Tiffany’s – I’ve almost missed a flight for Tiffany’s three times now. I always end Maui trips here as it’s super close to OGG. I’ll never leave without Sheldon Simeon’s quick kine pickles with shoyu mayo (from his first book) and the hamachi in a bath of ginger, onion, and ponzu sauce. Pro tip: order a smash burger for the plane ride home.
Monkeypod – I can’t visit Maui without a stop for at least one lilikoi mai tai. It’s hard to beat!
Happy Opu – If you don’t stop by Mijin’s spot, Happy Opu, for all the bulgogi kimbap and coconut coffee, you’re truly missing out. It’s to-go, so I order a bevy of things and drive to the beach.
Maui Fresh Streatery – Whatever chef Kyle Kawakami is serving from his food truck is what you order.
Havens Harborside Fish & ChopHouse – Chef Zach Soto’s new spot in Ma’alaea Harbor. Dinner is more serious, but lunchtime is where you’ll find his OG burgers (and the best lobster tacos).
Koholā Brewery in Wailea – Go for chef Isaac Bancaco’s musubi (there’s a whole menu) and local beer pairings.
Other standout spots to eat and drink

Marlow – Chef Jeff Scheer’s naturally leavened pizza and seasonal fare. Everyone raves about their croissants in the morning, but you have to get there early. ‘Oko’a Farms is next door, don’t miss it.
Kitoko Maui – I always send friends here for freshly caught ono poke. Chef Cole Hinueber left a fine dining spot to open this fine dining-esque food truck inside the South Maui Gardens in Kihei (also a cool spot to wander around). The plating is next level for a food truck.
Dina’s — My friend Chelsea introduced me to this place many years ago. It’s a total dive/time warp into a different era where sandwiches and the best bloody mary on-island exist. Last visit I figured out why it was so standout: they mix ingredients in a shaker with ice.
Shikeda Bento Patisserie — Get there early for a bento box and whatever pastries they have for the day. They sell out super quickly.
Drinks and cold things

For coffee, I’m always frequenting Espresso Mafia and Akamai. Espresso Mafia has a gorgeous new location tucked away in the back of CLHEI, one of my favorite shops for clothing and beauty products in Paia. I’m always stocking up on Songsaa Signature No.1 Oil fragrance. I’ll often drive over to Makawao to get Espresso Mafia and walk around to the studios and shops (Kulua Maui and Holoholo Surf have the best Maui-made clothing).
Ululani’s — For shave ice in Kihei, who use natural island fruits and ingredients for syrups vs. brightly hued dyes. It’s across from the beach so you know what I’m doing after I brave the rather long queue.
Esters Fair Prospect – Suzanne Navarro and Jessica Everett’s Wailuku cocktail bar where the locals hang that just feels like home. Also boasts the largest collection of rum on Maui.
Parlay – Down the street, Navarro opened a retro sports bar with indoor and outdoor areas where fake grass, umbrellas, and lawn chairs make for a stellar happy hour spot. I was lured in by Leopold’s Cafe via her Instagram, cold brew, whiskey, amaro, cardamom, and cold foam on ice exist in a glass. It was where I took breaks often during writing the cookbook.
Tikehau – A Pacific Island cocktail lounge in Wailea serving epic cocktails and island-inspired food from throughout Polynesia and the Pacific. The aesthetic is super inviting, and I still think the Koko Kuri, with Japanese whisky, cinnamon, coconut water, and Hawaiian salt, is one of the best cocktails I’ve ever had. If you stop by, tell bartender Mari Howe I sent you!
Waikulu Distillery — Agave fields on Maui exist, go see for yourself. While you can’t call it tequila if it’s not made in Tequila, the agave spirits are exceptional.
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