Hello from…
Orcas Island, the largest of the San Juan Islands off the coast of Washington state. My husband (Vinny Dotolo of Jon & Vinny’s in LA) and I have been coming to the island for weeklong stretches over the last four summers to drop our kids at a local sleepaway camp. Farm stands brimming with local plums and peas, incredible orange sunsets that stretch across the rocky shores of the Salish sea, gorgeous mountain lakes encircled by pines that you jump into like a cold plunge…these are just a few of the reasons for our continued love of this horseshoe-shaped island. The only way to get here is by ferry, seaplane, or small commuter flight. But we love the ferry, which is always a beautiful journey through the archipelago (which also includes San Juan, Lopez, and Shaw)—last year we spotted a pod of actual orcas alongside the boat.
Where I’m staying…
We’ve rented houses via Vrbo and Airbnb because we’ve been with our kids for weeklong stays. But there are some decent hotel options: Doe Bay is rustic with outdoor soaking tubs on a more remote part of the island. Outlook Inn, centrally located in the heart of Eastsound, is more modern, with a few units on the water across from Indian Island. Cabins on the Point are 1900s Cape Cod-style cabins on Massacre Bay—the Turtleback Mountain Preserve trailhead is a short walk away. First-time visitors might want to stay closer to Eastsound and explore the island from there; other parts like Olga offer more exclusivity and quiet.
The best meal I had…
We had a great experience at Houlme (formerly Archipelago). Jay Blackinton and his wife, Jocelyn, run this beautiful space with creatively and love—I have a soft spot for a husband-and-wife team who have their kids helping out with service during the summer. They just redid the small and quaint indoor dining room, a good thing since the air at night can drop to the low 60s in summer. (We bundled up and sat outside.) The best dish we had was a crispy scallop chip with wonderful sockeye crudo and a pizza with summer squash. Other places we love on the island are Bucks Bay Shellfish Farm for the Dungeness crab, plus their market where you can pick up fresh-caught halibut, salmon and local produce to bring home and grill. Another special spot is Boathouse Cider House for the cider slushy (with or without alcohol). See if they have their cider donuts or popcorn going. A must!
Most fun thing I did…
Hands down going to Moran State Park and swimming in the lakes. The state park is the only public camping on the island, so lots of people come here to rent kayaks, canoes and paddleboards. (The island’s lakes have no motorized boating, so the water is sparkling and crisp.) On Cascade Lake , Sugar Shack serves Lopez Island ice cream and a damn good grilled cheese. This year we spotted multiple bald eagles perched on trees.
Also, Orcas Island Pottery on West Beach is a true artists’ haven filled with gardens, a tree house and incredible views of Waldren Island—it’s the oldest pottery studio in the northwest. Highly recommend a visit!
The book I read (and would recommend) …
Tough to finish a book while watching two kids swimming and jumping into lakes! But the one I was diving into was the The Undertow by Jeff Sharlet. An important exploration of our divided America and extremism.
The playlist on repeat…
We are so eclectic! We listen to hip-hop like 21 Savage, Roddy Rich and A Tribe Called Quest with our kids, then transition to the Grateful Dead.
A thing or two I learned…
Always book ferry reservations ahead, especially for certain peak sailing times. There are no-show fees, but if you sign up through the website they will send you a reminder and you can cancel 24 hours in advance if you decide to stay longer. You will need a car on the island, so if you don’t take the car ferry you can rent one. This also makes it easy to pull over and pick from the many wild blackberry bushes that line the public roads. (Look out for thorns!) They taste like candy, especially the ones most in the sun.
The best thing I’m bringing home…
I literally carried a pint of island blueberries and raspberries back to Los Angeles. I know we have wonderful produce here in Southern California, but there is something about the air and sea up there that makes everything even better! We are making the raspberries into a jam.
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