Hello from… Vis, Croatia. The westernmost inhabited Dalmatian Island, Vis was a military stronghold of Josef Tito during the Cold War and was closed to tourism until the late ‘90s. As such, Vis remains blissfully off the foreign radar (save for its location as the set for Mama Mia 2 and a stopover for drifting sailboats), with limited ferry service, few hotels and no disco in sight.
Where I’m staying… The Pomâlo Inn; a chic 10-room B&B near the ferry quay on Vis’ quieter back street (there are only two streets that run along the harbor). Opened during the pandemic, Pomâlo is owned by a motorcycle-riding American expat named LouLou, who often has Artemis, her gray standard poodle, by her side. LouLou, a designer from LA who is fluent in quiet luxury, has poured her heart into making Pomâlo Inn the nicest place to stay west of Hvar. Italian embroidered linens cover the beds, guest bicycles have custom Italian leather seats, homemade breakfast is served how and when you like it, and LouLou is happy to be your guide on all things related to experiencing the best the island has to offer.
The best meal I had… On LouLou’s recommendation, we had a fantastic meal at Fields of Grace, a small restaurant in the middle of a winery in Vis’ lush interior. It’s owned and operated by a husband-and-wife team (he is a classically trained chef from Vis, by way of Australia, and she is Chinese) who live on the island year-round. Twice a week, Fields of Grace hosts small farm-to-fork meals blending south Asian flavors with homegrown ingredients. The prix fixe meal is paired with vintages of the estate’s rosé and white wines—all of it a welcome break from the standard fare of seafood and pizza one encounters in Croatia.
A few things I did… Relax, swim, explore. Our best day was spent riding electric bicycles around the mountainous island (roughly 20 km end-to-end). While this mode of transport is not for the faint of heart, exploring by e-bike was a wonderful way to experience the green, agricultural interior of the island. Along the way we stopped at Stivina, Vis’ most famous beach. A steep, 20-minute hike down a beautiful gorge, Stiniva is a white pebble beach with a shimmering bay protected by towering cliffs. The easy way to reach Stiniva is by boat, so we felt very accomplished arriving on foot! Plus, there is nothing more rewarding after biking and hiking than to strip off your clothes and dive straight into the sea (don’t ask me about the climb back up…).
My other on-island must is to spend the day with a private skipper, exploring the island by boat. Vis is home to beautiful, crystal-clear coves, hidden caves, and even a submarine hideout. We hired Milje, a skilled and experienced captain who runs Vis Tours, and happens to know a lot about the extensive military and maritime history of the island.
Lastly, don’t miss seeing the sunset from Bistro Frutarija. A short promenade from Pomalo, Frutarija clings to the sea wall and has the best view of the sun setting over the island. Arrive early to get a seat, sip a cocktail with your feet in the water, and wait for the sun to go blazing into the horizon. At the end of the day, it doesn’t get any better than this.
A thing or two I learned… As mentioned, because of its strategic location as the westernmost point of the former Yugoslavia, Josef Tito, the former leader of the Yugoslav resistance, used Vis as his military base during World War II. Later, Vis became Yugoslavia’s main naval base until it was abandoned in 1989, leaving behind underground tunnels, bunkers, and a submarine bay. The locals have capitalized on their history by offering military tours of the island. We had a great evening bumping around in an old Land Rover with Teuta Military Tours, and would highly recommend this beach distraction.
The best thing I’m bringing home… Handmade leather bracelets from Carlo, who uses ancient Singer sewing machines to make beautiful leather pieces. His shop is just down the road from Pomalo.
The playlist on repeat…While you can’t help but lean into ABBA while in this Mama Mia 2 setting, island life and boating culture always call for a “Yacht Rock” playlist on a loop.
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