Postcard from…Porto Ercole 



(Photos by Andrea Franchini)

Where I’m staying… At my family house in the village of Porto Ercole. I’ve been spending my summers here since I was born. Some of my best childhood memories were made here, and I’m still making new ones with my partner, Cian. Every time we visit Porto Ercole, we treat ourselves with a one-night staycation at Il Pellicano. In its heyday, back in the ‘60-‘70s, Porto Ercole was an international jet-set destination, more popular than Portofino, an alternative to other ritzy destinations like Capri, Porto Cervo and Saint Tropez. Romans have always come here—think of Porto Ercole as the Hamptons for Romans.

Left: Aperitivo at Hotel Il Pellicano; Right: Alicina Restaurant

The best meal I had… The village of Porto Ercole has a mix of casual options lined up along the old marina, all walking distance from each other. Our favorites are La Sirena, Il Gamberosso and the newly opened Alicina. The freshest crudo, seafood pastas and roasted dorados or red snapper are the way to go, because they’re caught daily by local fishmongers. After dinner, a passeggiata and gelato on the marina is a must. If you want to take a car, The Pelligrill at Il Pellicano always offers a sophisticated experience and you can start the evening with Pelican Martinis or Teller Negronis on their terrace.

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Most fun thing I did… On sunny days, I love to cruise around the Monte Argentario coast. Being an archipelago, there are plenty of cays and bays to anchor your boat and dive into the emerald-blue waters. Just a 25-minute sail away, you have the natural marine parks of Isola di Giannutri and Isola del Giglio. If you want to go fancy, you can rent a yacht with a captain (try Powerboats Charter in Marina di Cala Galera). Alternatively, just take a smaller traditional wooden gozzo and drive it yourself. On cloudy or rough sea days, you can hike to the top of Monte Argentario and stop on the way to local farms and wineries for tastings. The nearby old towns of Porto Santo Stefano, Orbetello and Capalbio are just 15 to 30 minutes away by car and they offer great restaurants, local stores and flea markets.

The book I read… New York New York, New York: Four Decades of Success, Excess and Transformation. Author Thomas Diya documents the vision and growth of NYC over the last 4 decades and its most important decision makers and visionaries. A very insightful and captivating book.

The playlist on repeat… Cian has created a playlist with some Italian classics by Mina, Battisti, Franco Battiato, Ornella Vanoni and Renato Zero mixed up with Lana del Rey, Beyoncé, Tame Impala, Donna Summer and Diana Ross.

Left: La Roqqa; Right: Entrace to the village of Porto Ercole

A thing or two I learned… Italian master painter Caravaggio ended his journey in Porto Ercole. He finished some of his last paintings here and is buried in town. Also, La Roqqa is a newly opened boutique hotel right in the village, which has a gorgeous rooftop and a private beach club and all the suite rooms overlook the old marina. Finally, there’s one more high-end accommodation alternative for those looking to stay in the village and explore the nearby offerings.

The best thing I’m bringing home… Plenty of local vermentino and ansonica wines, which local vineyards can ship to the US. And some ceramics and linens (the flea market in Ortobello is a great source) handmade by locals.

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