Just Back From…Vienna

I ended up in Vienna with a group of my closest friends who, like me, all flew in from Europe. We were invited by our friend Fallon Nachmani, who represents the impeccable Hotel Sacher—which has a distinct Ritz-in-Vienna vibe. Opened in 1876 and still family-owned and -run, the hotel is a destination in its own right.

Arriving in the room, I found “Diana at the Sacher” embroidered on my pillowcase. A very nice touch, and one that I stole and brought home with me. The Sacher is famous for the Sacher-Torte, created in 1832 by the pâtissier father of the Sacher’s original owner. People line up around the block for this chocolate sponge cake with apricot jam, which is very much worth it.

The Blaue Bar and the green breakfast room were standouts. You’ll look and feel like you’re in a Wes Anderson film, opening your newspaper and drinking your beverage of choice each morning. The Austrians here will quite literally make anything you want. Nothing is a no. Each evening we’d do apperò at the Blaue Bar, which is covered in blue velvet, as well as post-dinner drinks if we weren’t at the American Bar. Designed by Adolf Loos, the Art Deco American Bar might be my favorite bar in the world. Marbled checker floors, emerald-green leather banquets and yellow lights create an ambience people try to emulate all over the world. It’s always packed and they pour a mean cocktail. Make a reservation in advance if you want a table! We were here a lot, for Negronis, martinis, or, if you’re me, a white mezcal Negroni.

From there we went one night to Salzamt, a very authentic Austrian restaurant. Everything in the city is walking distance, and it’s quite romantic to curve through the streets on your way to and from dinner. Don’t miss the clear beef broth to start, and the schnitzel. This is a very photogenic restaurant—even the clientele’s blowouts look like they are out of a Hitchcock film.

We dressed in black tie for the Vienna State Opera, and at intermission popped out for a cocktail at Hotel Bristol. If you like horses, the Spanish Riding School is a special visit, an institution dedicated to the preservation of classical dressage. We came with to-go coffees in hand for a 10am showing and watched one of their training sessions (you can find tickets online)—it was like an hour of meditation. The Albertina is like The Met of Vienna—don’t miss it. 

The Viennese are quite elegant, and the street style of the elderly in particular is impeccable—a lot of browns, muted greens and neutral tones. There’s not a hair out of place, every woman has a blowout and every man sees a barber. I haven’t been to another city that feels more like a time warp—the pace is slow, thoughtful and routine-based. The Viennese seem to have uniformity throughout their day, just like their dressing rituals.

On that front, Knize stole my heart—an old-school menswear shop with cashmere sweaters in every color in a two-story building with an interior also designed by Adolf Loos (the architect who rules this city). I don’t know if it was the inspiring interiors or the quality of the work, but I bought six sweaters and two scarves. Safe to say I won’t be needing Charvet anymore, and it’s a fraction of the price. Still, in this most traditional of cities, there are a few modern designer clothing stores, like Song (actually owned by my friend’s mother), which houses all the cool designer clothes in the city.

On the way to the airport, we stopped at Gasthaus Poschl for a final lunch, maybe the best potato salad I’ve had in my life. 

For three days we walked, we talked, we danced at Eden Bar, ate our weight in schnitzel, drank Riesling at noon and had the most fabulous holiday. I’d recommend going in fall/winter, when the city is in a festive mood and you’re practically forced into these opulent interiors, though I’m looking forward to seeing it in a different light when I return next spring.