Living Abroad in… Lisbon

What inspired your move to Lisbon? 

My wife and I had been living in Los Angeles for four years when the pandemic began. We both moved to the West Coast after ten years in New York and settled in, had a daughter and embraced the SoCal lifestyle—albeit with all the typical gripes about cars, traffic, isolation, sweat pants, etc. After a month of lockdown, we skipped town and spent four months on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State, where my wife is from. That change of environment made us take stock of our life in L.A. While we were there, I reconnected with an old friend who had relocated to Portugal in 2018 and he convinced me to pack up and come over for an extended period. Both my wife and I were consulting and working remotely, so we made a plan to spend a month in Portugal, and a few months later (mid 2021) we arrived in Lisbon. We rented a beautiful flat on Rue de Sao Paulo, near Cais do Sodré, found a nanny service (our daughter was 18 months old), and stayed for seven weeks. Tourism in Portugal hadn’t returned in full force yet—there were still a lot of Covid restrictions and occasional curfews, but most everything was still open, allowing us to experience the country largely free of tourists. We explored during the day, took calls in the late afternoon, and visited small towns around the country—Sagres was our favorite. Towards the end of the trip, we were sad to leave and we started to really think about a life abroad. Once we were back in L.A., we mapped out a plan to relocate and told ourselves that within three years we’d be living in Lisbon. For the next three years, we went back for the bulk of the summer, renting a different place in a new neighborhood to see other parts of the city, but also stress-test how we felt about the country and make sure it wasn’t some rash decision.

What was that process like as a foreigner? Did you work with a person/service in Portugal or navigate it all on your own? 

Coincidentally, I began working with a company called Second Home, a members’ club/coworking business, with a location in Lisbon. This helped me find a bunch of local support and map out the process, but like anyone, I fell deep into the Google rabbit hole, spending countless nights researching all the available options for relocation, what documents we needed, how much it would cost, how long everything should take, etc. Eventually I found a local attorney in Lisbon, who guided us through everything and helped navigate all the bureaucratic logistics. At first, the whole idea and process can feel a bit daunting and overwhelming, so it’s important to keep perspective and be okay with making incremental progress. Nothing moves as quickly as you want.  

Could you share a bit about the visa process?

I ended up applying for and receiving a digital nomad visa (a long-term visa that allows non-EU citizens to legally live in Portugal while working remotely for a company outside the country) for myself, and a family unification visa (for family members accompanying someone on another type of temporary visa) for my wife and daughter. There are several options and this was the best route for us, but like any visa application, it requires a mountain of documentation. The attorney I found in Lisbon provided us with a straightforward checklist of items (proof of funds, passport scans, criminal record certificate, etc), some we had and several we had to get along the way. These checklists are pretty standard, but it’s important to note that everything must be filed in person at a consulate and the required documents can change without notice—which happened to us. During our visa appointment, there were several new requirements we had to source while in the consulate waiting room. We even had to get a notary to come to the lobby and notarize a copy of our passports so we could keep them for travel. It all worked out, but was admittedly a little hectic at the moment, especially considering the wait time for visa appointments can be months. Part of the process requires an initial appointment at the Portuguese consulate in the US (which is what we did in L.A.), and after a few weeks/months, they send a visa approval then request everyone’s passport, and after a week you get them back with the visa inserted. Then once in Portugal, we received our visa appointment to finalize the residency process, and subsequently received our resident cards within a few months. The whole process for us took about seven months from the moment we hired our attorney to the date we made the move.

Did you learn about any surprising visa hacks/loopholes worth sharing?

The best hack is getting local support that is experienced and does this all day. Definitely a lawyer, but getting someone to help on the property side is also helpful if you’re unable to get time on the ground locally. It comes with a modest fee, which isn’t for everyone, but you’ll get significant peace of mind being able to trust that things will be in order when you arrive. The lawyers typically have all the contacts to sort out all the other stuff—banks, insurance, etc. They’re an invaluable resource and well worth the cost. They’ll also step in if there are issues, delays, or if there’s need for local support. It felt like we got hit with several surprises that would have been incredibly difficult to navigate and potentially compromised our visas had we not had local help. Our initial visas from the consulate took exceptionally long to receive, and the rumor was that this was somewhat intentional as a means to try and slow immigration, to which our lawyer stepped in with firm letter and legalese to move the process along. Without this help, it’s unclear how long it would have taken and could have put a lot of other things in jeopardy.  Others in a similar position have eventually given up on the process. In these situations, there’s never too much back-up documentation—especially if you’re in a relationship or have children. Additionally, if you need to sort out school, start as early as you can, go see the campus if possible, and identify a few options. 

What about the nitty gritty stuff—bank accounts, phone service—did you sort that out before you left, or once you were in Portugal?

There are a few things you must have to get a visa: a bank account (with a chunky initial deposit), local health insurance, a local tax ID number, proof of residence, etc. Stuff like a local phone number you can sort out after you arrive, BUT if you want to keep your US number, you either have to set up a good international plan with your carrier or port your number over to Google voice before you leave the US. The nice thing about needing all the stuff to get the visa is that it’s done once you arrive. Also, just know that if you get a shipping container to bring all of your belongings over, it is going to take much longer than the quoted delivery date. Pack accordingly on that first trip over. Our shipping container was supposed to take two months and ended up taking three.  

What about housing? Did you rent/buy and what was that like? 

We ended up renting an apartment in a neighborhood called Chiado, which is very central, close to several transit options and has nice historical buildings. It made more sense to do this while we figured out if and where we’d eventually like to buy a place. Initially I was trying to source an apartment by myself, but it became a huge time suck, so I found a local broker to help with sourcing, communicating and scheduling viewings. During a work trip over, I scheduled six viewings in one day and the next day rode a bike around the neighborhoods I visited the day before. We created a list of must-haves that helped narrow down the field and save a bunch of time, and ultimately we ended up in a place we really love that’s very traditional and lacks some modernity, but has tons of character. Whatever route you take, be prepared to transact quickly. Once you commit, the leasing process can take a couple of weeks. Also, getting help with utilities is strongly recommended—it’s not easy so find someone local who can help, most brokers will offer this as a service as well.

Is there anything you wish you knew before you made the move?

No matter how much you plan, or how many times you’ve been somewhere, nothing can prepare you for those first few weeks of mentally adjusting to living abroad, especially if you have kids. At first it feels like an extended holiday, then real life starts to set in and even the most experienced travelers can feel outside of their comfort zone. There’s nothing you should do differently, just take it all in and enjoy the journey. We arrived on August 1st during peak tourist season and felt a bit overwhelmed by the amount of people, the change of environment, not having many of our belongings, trying to get our bearings and feel a sense of home. It took some time to adjust. Eventually it all levels out and your surroundings become familiar, you create new routines, become a local at new places, and truly settle in. I don’t think there’s much out there to prepare for this mental adjustment that lags behind the physical relocation, probably because it’s not the same for everyone. All the other logistical stuff works itself out, but the sense of self in a foreign environment needs a bit more attention.  

Any surprising things you’ve learned about culture/life in Portugal?

It’s an incredibly safe country and one that values time and boundaries in a healthy way. The feeling of safety can’t be overstated. There’s a mutual respect and patience for each other, and it creates an environment with a broad sense of community and common courtesy. This is especially apparent with children and the freedom they can have. It took some adjusting to take this in and let the guard down a bit, but it’s a very refreshing change.  

Separately, although Lisbon is a capital city with all the beauty, culture, history that comes with that, it’s not too big or cumbersome. The airport is a 20-minute drive from the city center, and public transportation is great. Getting out of the car was a big part of why we wanted to leave Los Angeles—we wanted to be able to walk to great restaurants, museums, shops, etc. Having that simple accessibility has been the best change.   

What has it been like to make friends/find community?

It takes time, patience and persistence. For me, community always supersedes geography, and building a community isn’t a fast process. But part of moving, at least for us, was getting out of our comfort zone, being challenged in new and exciting ways, and embracing a new culture. Being open-minded opens doors, and we’ve had great experiences with locals and other expats.

We also have a young daughter who is school age, which has been helpful in meeting people—other parents, people at the park, restaurants, etc. We proactively enrolled her in the Lycée Francais in Los Angeles three years before moving, knowing we’d eventually move to Europe, so by the time we arrived she was already fluent in French. When we got here, we enrolled her in the Lisbon campus where she’ll also learn Portuguese. This removed any language barrier and allowed us to not be dependent on an English speaking school. Going this route helped us make a bunch of new friends from all over Portugal and the world. Overall, people have embraced us—we make an effort to speak Portuguese every chance we get, stay informed on topical issues and are always respectful of local culture. 

Do you have any favorite discoveries in Lisbon? 

I love traditional shops in any city. Those establishments with patina, or only a few stools at the bar, or that specialize in making just one thing that they’ve offered for centuries. European countries are full of these but they can often be difficult to find. Lisbon has established a certification to help find these types of places called Loja com Historia (store with history), which not only makes them easy to find, but the certification also provides some legal insulation from closure. Coming across this website, which shares details on all 150+ locations, was a huge unlock for me. We tend to lean towards these types of places—our morning espresso is at an establishment that opened in the 1700s—ahead of all the new restaurants that have opened in the last few years as Lisbon’s popularity has grown. That said, there are also a bunch of really great newer locations that we visit regularly.

Food: 

Faz Frio – Old school Portuguese place on Rue Dom Pedro in Príncipe Real  

Oyster & Margarita – A super small spot tucked into the neighborhood – in between Praca das Flores & Principe Real 

Magnolia near Praca das Flores 

Pita.gr FoodTruck Chef Thassos in Belem – A food truck with amazing Greek food that’s a permanent fixture in a random praca 

Café de São Bento – Portuguese steak house that feels inspired by a Kieth McNally restaurant, or vice versa

Kaffeehaus – A simple, no frills Austrian place with a good blend of locals and expats tucked away on a quiet corner in the center of the city. Get the schnitzel and a glass of riesling. 

Palacio do Grilo – This place has exploded in the last year and is on every list. It’s slightly out of town (take an uber) in an old palace that is perfectly run down. The food is good, there’s performance art woven into the experience and it makes for a really fun night in one of Lisbon’s coolest buildings. Worth noting that because it’s made its way onto every list, you will be sharing the room with mostly visitors. 

Drinks: 

SNOB Bar – A hidden little bar with some food and limited seating that opened in 1964 

Proćopio Bar – Just off the lovely Jardim das Amoreiras (one of Lisbon’s best quiet little parks) is this 1920s bar, hidden up a small staircase in what appears to be someone’s house. Go through the Dutch doors and settle in. 

Kiosks – the Lisbon kiosks are one of the city’s best features.  They’re all over town, in nearly every praca and they all have a unique offering, but the €2 pequeno beers can’t be beat.  My favorites are in the park in Principe Real, in the praca on Rue de S. Paulo behind Time Out Market (this one is owned by a Michelin starred chef and has some interesting bites), in Jardim das Amoreiras (this park sits under an old aqueduct and is very family friendly and very local). 

Praca des Flores has several natural wine bars that have a rotating selection and you can grab a glass and head across the street to sit in the park. It really comes alive on the weekends. 

Shops: 

Isto – A great mix of classic wears all transparently made in Portugal.  Think well cut oxfords, approachable suiting, sweaters, etc. They have a stand alone store in Chiado and a few other locations in some of the shopping centers. 

Vida Portuguese – It’s on everyone’s list and for good reason, they have so many great Portugues brands and everything from classic home goods, to food, soaps, etc. There are three locations – the one near the Moorish quarter on Largo Indepente is the best, the biggest, and the quietest. 

Under the Cover and Photo Book Corner – Two terrific book stores that are next door to each other. Under the Cover carries all the magazine greats: Cabana, Apartamento, Kennedy, and ahem, YOLO Journal. It’s right across the street from Gulbenkian Museum and gardens. 

Burel Factory – A lovely purveyor of all things wool – they sell clothing, blankets, and home furnishings located in Chiado. They’re a vertical business from the central part of Portugal, where they also run a nice mountain top hotel.  

What advice would you give to someone considering making a move abroad?

Make sure you are moving for the right reasons. Do your homework and put together a plan, prepare accordingly, and remain patient but diligent. Leaving your home country isn’t for the faint of heart and it’s not as easy as many make it sound, but it is doable. For us, it’s been one of the best decisions we’ve ever made. We love the country, the people, the culture, and raising our daughter in a safer, healthier, and less polarizing environment where quality of life is a priority. While it’s great being in a smaller city that’s much less hectic, I do crave a faster pace from time to time. Fortunately, Lisbon’s airport has direct flights to almost every city in Europe, so when the feeling strikes, I can head out for a few days. If you want to move abroad, ensure you’re not trying to relive an amazing holiday you had in that place and that it’s providing more than good food, walkability and cheaper housing. Spending three long summers in Portugal is what solidified our decision to relocate, because it afforded us the opportunity to really understand the city and country.