Grand Hotel Tremezzo

In short… The storied grand dame hotel that put Lake Como on the map 115 years ago, Grand Hotel Tremezzo remains as glamorous as ever

The surroundings… Lake Como is shaped like an upside-down “Y”, with the town of Tremezzo, now synonymous with the hotel, sitting at its center on the western shore. We arrived by ferry from the town of Como, on a scenic 50-minute cruise up the lake past grand villas and ochre-hued towns, with snow-capped peaks in the distance and golden light cascading through the hills. From the Tremezzo ferry stop it’s less than a five-minute walk to the hotel, or a one-minute drive if you need help with your bags. You could also drive from the center of Milan and get there in about an hour and a half, or straight from MXP in just over an hour.

The backstory… In the early 1900s, the worldly couple Enea and Maria Gandola moved with their three young children from Bellagio across the lake to the then-quiet fishing village of Tremezzo, with the vision of building a hotel on par with the best that they had experienced across the continent. Well-heeled Europeans were beginning to visit Lake Como more frequently for vacations, but when they opened Grand Hotel Tremezzo in July of 1910, it became one of the first true luxury hotels to be established on the lake. During World War I, the hotel was briefly requisitioned as a military hospital, and eventually changed hands to the Sampietro family in the 1930s, when it began attracting an even more international crowd, thanks in part to the 1932 film Grand Hotel. Fast forward to 1975, the De Santis family purchased Grand Hotel Tremezzo, and three generations later, Valentina De Santis—a real life Eloise at the Palazzo—is now at the helm. 

The vibe… This is the kind of place where you can get dressed to the nines for a five-course dinner, but also wear your bathrobe in the lobby en route to the pool. Everything is served on a silver platter—literally—but always with the relaxed charm and warm smile of a bronzed Italian. The hotel is decidedly romantic, with plush red velvet furniture, silk wallpaper, and single-stem roses on every table, but with its deep familial roots, it’s no surprise that it’s incredibly kid-friendly—the pools and candy buffet set up in the lobby are a hit with younger guests (though I was told adults frequent the candy more than kids!). Whatever you’re looking for, chances are you’ll find it here, wrapped in an orange bow.  

The rooms… This year, after a few rooms were combined and renovated, the hotel now has a total of 80 rooms and suites, most with lake views. We stayed in the Rooftop Grand Suite on the top floor, an expansive one bedroom suite with a sitting room, two bathrooms, a large walk-in closet and, best of all, a huge sun-drenched terrace with views of the lake and gardens, complete with a private jacuzzi. The design is appropriately traditional—lots of velvet and marble, antique dark-wood furniture, jewel-toned fabrics and gold-plated everything. There were so many thoughtful details I loved: the green or red tassels to hang on the door for service or privacy, custom Dyson hair dryers and the chicest friulane-style slippers in the bathroom, a leather-wrapped clothing rod in the walk-in closet, and orange leather pouches that hid the TV remotes, letting you stay in the old-world reverie they’ve preserved so well.

The food… We have to begin with breakfast. I’ve never seen anything like the spread they put on each morning in the Sala Regina. Tables upon tables of fresh baked pastries, fruits, yogurts and cheeses take up an entire ballroom, with everything served on polished silver platters, or in crystal jars, naturally. I did a double take when I saw the chocolate fountain, another when I noticed three separate trays of eggs cooked in 3, 6, or 9-minute intervals, and yet another when I saw fresh bagels (when do you ever see bagels in Italy?!). Gluten-free guests have their own dedicated table of treats. And while many of the options were over-the-top indulgent, there are plenty of healthy choices as well—I can confirm that the green juice is excellent. Of course, you can walk right into the kitchen to order eggs however you like, or ask for a fresh stack of pancakes. Even if you’re content with the extensive offerings that are already prepared, it’s worth peeking into what has to be the most beautiful hotel kitchen in the world. 

For the rest of your meals, whether you’re staying for a night or a week, you’re spoiled for choice. I didn’t have time to try T Pizza, their poolside bistro, or L’Escale, a cozy trattoria and enoteca with an impressive 1,300 label wine list. But we had an amazing dinner at La Terrazza, the only restaurant in the world dedicated to the most iconic dishes of Gualtiero Marchesi, the father of modern Italian cuisine—the risotto is not to be missed. For a more casual lunch or dinner, Da Giacomo al Lago, their lakefront seafood restaurant in collaboration with Giacomo Milano, is a great option. I’ve heard the fennel salad is a must!

The wellness… The three-floor gym takes up prime real estate in the historic La Malpensata building, with top-of-the-line Technogym equipment, inspiring lake views, and beautiful wood ceilings. Outdoors, there’s a very photogenic clay tennis court, and of course plenty of running, hiking, and cycling routes around the lake. While I was happy choosing between the three pools for a swim, I’ve heard that more intrepid athletes swim across the lake and back. Just say the word and kayaks, SUP, horseback riding and golf can all be arranged. 

The spa is next door to the gym, housed in the 18th century Villa Emilia, with original mosaic floors and frescoed ceilings. It has a hammam, a hair and nail salon, and extensive spa menu using Santa Maria Novella products. I had a wonderful massage and loved the sauna, which has lake views. There’s also a suite connected to the spa, with a more private entrance for discrete guests, so it’s often booked by celebrities, bridal parties, or those looking for more of a wellness-focused getaway.

Extra tip goes to… everyone! The service all around was so great—it’s warm and attentive but never overbearing. Something I found really endearing was that people were so proud to say how long they’d been working there. Without me even asking, Natalie, the spa manager, told me she’d been there 10 years; Delia, the PR manager, mentioned she’d been there 9; and when we got in our car back to Milan, our driver Fernando proudly said he’d been there for 14. Whether they’d worked there for a week or a decade, everyone seemed equally chipper and genuinely happy to be there. 

Be sure to… visit Villa Carlotta, just down the road from the hotel. On a bluebird day in late March, we walked through the gardens as everything was starting to bloom, and I wish I could have bottled up the scent. The gardens are wildly diverse—I’ve never seen cacti, redwoods, palms, magnolia trees, camellias and petunias all thriving in the same garden.  

And if you can, you should absolutely tack on a few days (or at least go for lunch) at their sister property, Passalacqua, down the lake! 

Next time I’d… plan to take the ferry to Bellagio and walk through the Villa Melzi gardens to Darsene di Loppia for lunch or dinner (we were there in March and the ferries weren’t running as frequently), and book a boat day on one of the hotel’s old-school Aqua Riva or Chris Crafts!

Parting words… As we checked out, someone slipped a cheerful “BUON VIAGGIO” tag on our suitcases in their unmistakable orange. We didn’t even notice until we were back in Milan, but it was such a sweet gesture that I smile every time I see it, and I still haven’t taken it off my bag! 

Date of stay… March 26-28, 2025