Mont Saint-Michel

I planned this trip to the north of France to visit the iconic Mont Saint-Michel, explore the region’s coastal trails and eat my share of oysters with white wine, but also because I’d heard so many good things about Auberge Sauvage, a small boutique hotel in a tiny village just twenty minutes from the sea, and I wanted to experience it firsthand.

Just before the pandemic, Jessica Schein and chef Thomas Benady left Paris with their two children to begin a new life in Normandy, renovating a 16th-century stone building into an unexpected culinary destination tucked between land and sea. With just three rooms and bright, crisp interiors, Auberge Sauvage makes a charming base for exploring the area. Dining on the property is a worthwhile experience in itself, with a primarily plant-based menu in 4, 6, or 8 courses inspired by the land, sea and season. I’d recommend staying for three nights (or at least two dinners!). For a night out, I’d suggest dinner at Istreen, in the nearby seaside village of Vilde La Marine, for grilled oysters and the fish of the day.

I’d spend one day hiking the beautiful stretch of coastal trails close to Les Falaises and then a lunch of fresh mussels at Plage de Pignochet. Devote another day to the town of Cancale: pick up a famous mille-feuille at Grain de Vanille, then for lunch have oysters and wine at any of the small seafood stands in town. If you love walking, pick up the GR trail from Cancale and walk as far as your feet will take you. You’ll pass beautiful beaches and stunning ocean views along the way and you can turn around whenever you’re tired.

If you want to see Mont Saint-Michel, get up with the sun to beat the crowds—it’s a calm and peaceful time to take in the views. As you make your way back to Paris, stop by Christian Dior’s garden to return inspired.

Oh, and if you’re looking to pick up something unique to Normandy to bring home, keep an eye out for signs to purchase Calvados liquor, made with apples famously endemic to the region.