Insider’s Mérida

A few weeks ago, we saw some preview pages from the book Inside Yucatán: Hidden Mérida and Beyond by Susana Ordovás, with photography by Guido Taroni (Vendome), and fell in love. So much so that we decided to excerpt the book for our Spring issue of Yolo Journal (which should be coming out any day). We’ve heard so much about Mérida from friends who love it or have moved there, and Susana and Guido capture the private homes of so many creative locals and expats so beautifully. (We also learned that several of these insane houses are rentable!)  Here are a few of Susana’s favorites and a bit on how the project came about. (Yolo readers can order the book using this link.) 

When and what was your first impression of Mérida?

I admit my first visit to Yucatán was uneventful. I spent three short days in Mérida roaming the dusty streets of the centro histórico under a blistering sun, while I admired the severe façades of the colonial casonas that line the busy avenues. It was not until many years later that I decided it was time to properly uncover the secrets of Yucatán. That trip, in the fall of 2020, turned out to be a transformative experience that carried me far from my familiar urban life in Mexico City and introduced me to a world where ancient stories intertwined with the present. I became hopelessly enchanted with Yucatán’s faded glory and charm.

What makes the architecture in Mérida unique?

Founded in 1542 and established on the site of the ancient Maya city of T’hó, Mérida possesses a unique and unrivaled architectural heritage. At the turn of the 20th century, affluent hacienda owners, known as hacendados, constructed lavish homes for their families in the capital. Paseo de Montejo, the city’s main avenue, was built to emulate the Champs-Élysées in Paris. It boasts ornate mansions that stand as a testament to the incredible wealth amassed in Yucatán during this era thanks to the mass production of henequen, a fibrous agave plant native to Yucatán that was used to craft high-quality rope, twine and sacks to transport grain.

However, most homes in the centro histórico of Mérida predate these times—they were built during the viceregal period and are centuries old. Mérida’s true gems are concealed behind tall, austere façades. Many of these homes now belong to individuals in creative professions, and each one embodies a personal vision, eschewing trends and making them truly unforgettable.

Why do you think so many international artists, designers and creatives have moved to Mérida?

At the heart of its appeal is Yucatán’s old-world architecture. These historic structures serve as a canvas and inspiration for those with a creative bent, allowing them to immerse themselves in a space that is both ancient and ever-evolving. Then many expatriates speak of experiencing an immediate and profound connection to the region, describing it as a curious sense of homecoming. This feeling is often attributed to the warmth and welcoming nature of the Maya people, whose generosity and openness add a layer of comfort and belonging. Yucatán’s reputation as Mexico’s safest region adds to its allure.

When you go to Mérida, where do you like to stay?

When I travel to Mérida, I prefer to stay right in the heart of the city center. Over two decades ago, my American friend John Powell arrived in Mérida and started revitalizing the sleepy centro histórico by meticulously restoring dilapidated colonial-era homes, known locally as casonas. He co-founded Urbano Rentals, a holiday-rental agency that specializes in these beautifully revived properties, many of which are among Mérida’s most exquisite.

I also enjoy staying at Casa Lecanda, a charming boutique hotel situated along the fashionable Calle 47. This late 19th-century residence, transformed into a stylish hotel with just seven guest rooms, boasts a delightful patio and dipping pool—perfect for savoring evening drinks.

Another gem I highly recommend is L’Epicerie, part of the Coqui Coqui one-suite residences in Yucatán. Just steps away from Santa Lucía Park, its decadent belle époque architecture offers a serene retreat from Mérida’s lively streets. Inside, past the heavy, velvet drapes, guests are treated to a world of elegance: an ornate four-poster iron bed, chandeliers, intricately tiled floors, and distinctive features like standalone twin French bathtubs.

Any favorite restaurants, cultural sites or other show-off spots that you’d recommend as must-visits?

Mérida’s restaurant scene is thriving, featuring standout venues like Oliva Enoteca in the historic center, offering high-end Italian cuisine in a chic setting. Picheta, with its impressive rooftop views, serves Yucatán specialties in a historic plaza. Apoala in Santa Lucía Park showcases a passion for Mexican flavors, blending ingredients from Oaxaca and Yucatán. Huniik provides an intimate dining experience with contemporary Yucatecan dishes in an open kitchen designed by artist Jorge Pardo. I also suggest taking a stroll along the recently renovated Calle 47, which is lined with numerous charming restaurants.

Mérida’s cultural landscape is rich with history, from Casa Montejo, a 16th-century mansion showcasing art exhibitions, to the lavish mansions along Paseo de Montejo, remnants of the henequen boom. Palacio Cantón, a Beaux Arts mansion, houses a significant collection of Maya artifacts. The recently opened Montejo 495 offers a peek into the city’s affluent past. The General Cemetery is a fascinating visit and provides a unique insight into Mérida’s heritage.

The town of Mérida itself has been well-discovered by travelers, but are there lesser-known towns or areas nearby that are favorites of yours—and why? 

There is so much to see and do in Yucatán! I highly recommend exploring the colonial town of Izamal, known for its stunning yellow façades, and the timeless charm of Valladolid, which feels like stepping back into history. Additionally, the ornate seventeenth-century Ex Convent of Santo Domingo in Uayma is a must-visit. Of course, the Maya archaeological ruins across Yucatán, including Uxmal, Ek Balam, and Chichén Itzá, offer a fascinating glimpse into ancient Maya civilizations. A visit to Yucatán’s numerous cenotes, or natural sunken pools, is essential. I’d also recommend Celestún. Here, you can marvel at the pink flamingos in their natural habitat, a breathtaking spectacle that adds a unique wildlife experience to the exploration of the region. 

The shopping there must be fantastic. Any favorite places?

The concept shop Casa T’HÓ, one of Mérida’s chicest spots, is located in an early 19th-century mansion on Paseo de Montejo with a half-dozen shops featuring Mexican fashion, local textiles, guayaberas, fragrances, and more—there’s also a café/restaurant and a lovely courtyard dotted with towering palms. For those who love Mexican midcentury design and high-quality vintage furniture, Casa Mo Gallery is a perfect fit—inside, you’ll find Clara Porset chairs and Eugenio Escudero sideboards with a pair of Whippets strolling around. L’Epicerie is the Mérida boutique of fragrance empire Coqui Coqui, set within a 1903 townhouse that smells like a tropical forest or a well-maintained garden. Plaza Carmesí houses a design store with a modern take on Mexican craft culture: fringed hammocks, colorful leather totes, straw hats, and an array of minimalist stone ceramics. Built around an ancient tree, Taller Maya’s Mérida shop (there are others throughout Mexico) has an outdoor courtyard that offers a quiet space to take a break from the city bustle, and contemporary crafts sourced from 42 different artisan workshops throughout Yucatán, all of them indubitably chic. Finally, for an exceptional experience, I recommend exploring Lucas de Gálvez Market, situated in the heart of Mérida. Established in 1888, it carries historical and cultural significance for the city and stands as one of Mexico’s largest markets, featuring an impressive array of over 2000 stalls with an eclectic mix of goods, including delicious foods, unique crafts, and local textiles.

What is your favorite thing to bring back?

One of my favorite things to bring back from my travels is the jipijapa sombrero, or palm hat, meticulously crafted in the town of Becal, Campeche. Additionally, I am fond of the traditional huipiles, garments worn by Maya women. These are beautifully adorned with intricate cross-stitch embroidery, symbolizing a vibrant expression of Maya craftsmanship and cultural identity. —S.O.