Collegio alla Querce, Florence

In short…  A sweeping Renaissance estate and former boarding school perched high above Florence is now a cocoon of luxury hospitality and a thousand thoughtful kindnesses, both large and small.

The surroundings… Le Cure is the district north of the city center and the gateway to the countryside landscape. It’s a 15-minute drive to the airport—less into town—but once your car climbs all the way up the narrow curves of the cypress-lined drive, it’s another world altogether. From inside, you can see 360°; the Duomo and the rooftop cityscape on one side, and on the other, the view stretches clear through the vineyards of Chianti. I try hard not to employ the overused “breathtaking,” but while wandering the ancient acreage, Baroque gardens, pool with restaurant and bar in a hedgerow-lined courtyard (originally the school athletic field), and endless walking paths—not to mention all of Tuscany unfolding below our suite windows from indoors—it earns the description. 

The backstory… Around 1400 it was built as a private villa, then in 1775, a noble family expanded it into a mansion. In 1868, the Church took over and made it a boarding school that operated for over a century. When the school closed, it sat abandoned for about 20 years, but the property was still technically managed by the friars until around 2015. The “College at the Oaks” is named not only for the surrounding trees but because of a more mystical occurrence: around 1520, the Virgin Mary appeared to someone very ill who was praying to her at a nearby oak tree. Madonna appeared to heal them, and the area was devoted to a holy place of worship. Nods to the historic school and its alumni of Florentine aristocracy and noble families are threaded everywhere; peek at the trophy cases downstairs filled with vintage cleats and B&W photos. 

The vibe… Situated as it is, there are no cars driving around, no traffic. You can hear the wind in the cypresses and birds chirping across the grounds, and children playing in the church yard. It’s Firenze…but not. A resort inside the city, and truly the best of town and country. Auberge is relatively new to Europe, but the motto “a sense of place” has stayed the same here. Incorporating local products, foodstuffs, and artisanship is integral to their business model, and where is that more fun than Tuscany? The community is important to them; they encourage the  neighborhood to come up and enjoy. A local music school rehearses, kids perform regularly for guests in the old theater spaces. Don’t treat it as the castle on the hill—if you’re in Florence, go for a meal, music in the garden, or an evening drink. 

The food & drink… We met our local friends Salvatore Ambrosino, and his AION Tours co-founder, Francesco Soldi, for pre-dinner cocktails at Bar Bertelli, the old headmaster’s office turned clubby bar room, alongside the only cigar room in Florence. Former student portraits line the gallery walls; the hotel works within the Cultural Heritage Code to recover as much of the school’s original art as possible. I loved my peppermint, tarragon and cucumber tequila; the guys all had mezcal doused with banana juice. Downstairs, La Gamella is named for the former cafeteria where it stands–loosely, lunchbox or mess hall. The atrium-like restaurant glows just as beautifully at night as when the doors lead to the sun-spilled gardens for breakfast. Take the time to explore the pairings from the wine program (the somm came from The Four Seasons). Whatever you do, don’t miss breakfast. The buffet spread is served from the huge open kitchen—charming, luxe, unpretentious and stocked with local Tuscan everything.

The rooms… Just beyond. Our suite had a sitting and dining room and primary bedroom, plus a million little nooks: a grasscloth-paneled foyer and personal wine cellar, matching walk-in closets, and a palazzo-worthy marble bathroom. Huge windows with wooden shutters thrown open to the view, and a fireplace. The guest rooms still maintain the grandeur of the larger suites, each decorated in its own elegant mood. Throughout the entire hotel, frescos and marble are sprinkled with pieces from the owner’s private art collection, even in the suites. In our room, Francesco, a native Florentine and third-generation antiques dealer, pegged the objet d’art on the side table as an ancient Chinese Bi disc. Every detail was seen to: the discreet, leather-wrapped box, custom-fitted for the hairdryer; the CREATE electric teakettle at the bar, set from 40 °C to 100 °C; the Auberge Collection by Rivolta Carmignani custom linens that even extended to the roll-away crib, complete with embroidered baby set and a “privacy, please” wooden Pinocchio.

The wellness… The spa uses HöbePergh products and is the first in hospitality to feature Furtuna Skin, with Tuscan treatments from local organic gardens and olive groves. There are no common areas, only private rooms, and you’re invited to wander outside into the spa’s private garden. The swooping, sky-blue, angel-frescoed ceiling in the white plaster yoga and meditation room feels like a literal temple.

The kid-friendly factor… Where to begin? Our 3-year-old played alongside several baby Europeans at the pool while sipping a mocktail, and we saw a few other small ones toddling around during our stay. Luckily, the pool is large enough, there are enough cabanas, and the grounds and restaurants are extensive enough to offer privacy and quiet if you prefer a sans-child energy. From the plate of sugar cookies that spelled out “SLOANE” in green icing waiting for her in our suite (that one killed me), to her Mushie silicone place setting in the same bone-china color as our own, these people clearly love kids. Or at least know how to enjoy them enough that the many families renting expansive spaces for several euros a night—where there will probably be children—feel loved and welcome. We were reluctant to abandon swimming for our afternoon cooking lesson, showing up in wet bathing suits straight from the pool, but it ended up being one of our favorite memories out of 2-weeks in Europe. Our silly, happy chef, teaching Sloane how to make fresh sheep ricotta tortelli, with many broken eggs and endless patience (“Pay attention, Chef!”), will stay with me for a while. At breakfast the next day, she was so flattered and flustered when he came to say good morning that she knocked her juice over. If you have a chance to participate with or sign up your kids for any programming, don’t miss the opportunity. 

Be sure to… Make the 30-minute walk to the city. The ride into Florence takes about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on where you’re headed, and you can always take house transportation. But several people mentioned to me that they love making the stroll up and down the hill every day, which also makes you entirely self-sufficient.

Parting words… If you have only a night or two here, try to reserve the time to stay on-site. It’s the kind of place where you can step back, linger on the property, and treat it as a retreat. If you can move in for an extended stay and enjoy the city too, even better.

Date of stay… June 24, 2025