More than a few eyebrows were raised and jokes made when I mentioned my plans to visit The Hague. As the International City of Peace and Justice settling some of the world’s most serious disputes, The Hague might not immediately scream leisurely weekend break. But look beyond the business suits and criminal courts, and the home of Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring—who is under permanent house arrest at the city’s Mauritshuis for fear of damaging the masterpiece in transit—reveals an embassy-backed, multicultural scene that’s quietly beginning to rival Amsterdam.International institutions have drawn a worldly crowd to the Netherlands’ seat of government, and the cuisine follows suit: Indonesian rijsttafel sits beside French wine bars, Japanese kaiseki is served in wood-panelled rooms, and Syrian bakeries offer flaky, pistachio-laced pastries. Het Noordeinde (formed by intersecting streets Hoogstraat, Heulstraat, and de Plaats around the Royal Palace) is lined with galleries, jewelry stores, and independent makers, as well as Art Nouveau buildings to admire while you shop. Jugendstil houses line leafy squares in Zeeheldenkwartier (Sea Heroes Quarter), the city’s oldest neighborhood, where buzzy wine bars are popping up and lively street parties are held. The main method of transport? Bicycle, of course. There’s also a well-connected tram line, and some pedestrianised areas worth perusing on foot.

What to do

Mauritshuis: Vermeer, Rembrandt, Rubens. The Dutch Masters are all here, on display in an intimate setting that was once a count’s private residence. Currently, The Bull by Paulus Potter (the museum’s largest painting) is being restored in an open exhibition where you can watch the conservators at work on the giant canvas. Plein 29, 2511 CS Den Haag

Museum Voorlinden: A short trip out to Wassenaar brings you to this privately funded contemporary museum—an architectural marvel housing James Turrell light installations, immersive Yayoi Kusama pieces, and enough Dutch minimalism to please even the most discerning aesthete. Buurtweg 90, 2244 AG Wassenaar

Escher in the Palace: Surrealists, this one’s for you. Step into the mind-bending world of M.C. Escher, one of the world’s most famous graphic artists (and a Dutchman, naturally). Pieces play with perspective, space, and reality, adorning the ornate walls of Lange Voorhout Palace, formerly the winter residence of Queen Emma. Lange Voorhout 74, 2514 EH Den Haag

Kunstmuseum: This is the international home of Dutch abstract painter Piet Mondrian, with over 300 works displayed in light-flooded galleries. Housing 160,000 pieces by predecessors and contemporaries like Monet, Picasso and Kandinsky, and successors including Francis Bacon, the Art Deco building designed by architect H.P. Berlage dazzles with its distinctive yellow brickwork. Stadhouderslaan 41, 2517 HV Den Haag

Paleistuin: Originally the private garden of the Dutch royal family, Paleistuin is now a public green refuge behind Noordeinde Palace. Perfect for a picnic under a chestnut tree or a quiet stroll along rose-lined paths. Prinsessewal, 2513 EE Den Haag

Beelden aan Zee: Shaped like a shell and tucked amidst the Scheveningen dunes, this sculpture museum champions form and material in conversation with sea and sky. It’s one of the few museums in the Netherlands dedicated solely to sculpture—and its coastal setting is one to write home about. Harteveltstraat 1, 2586 EL Den Haag

Scheveningen: The Hague’s seaside alter ego, with wide, sandy beaches, retro pier architecture, and a growing scene of beach clubs that lean more Ibiza than North Sea. Come for sunset aperitifs or brave the waves with a session at one of the surf schools.

Oostduinpark: On the northeast fringes of Scheveningen, locals come to this expanse of undulating dunes and pine forest to escape the city. You’ll spot cyclists, dog walkers, and wild Highland cattle. If you’re driving, use the address ‘2586 ZZ Scheveningen’ in your GPS. By tram, take line 9 towards Scheveningen Noord; get off at the Zwarte Pad stop, then walk 10 minutes.

Where to shop

Moofers Clothing: Designer Jennifer van Haastert has thoughtfully stocked her Toussaintkade boutique with sustainably woven Dutch knitwear, structured pieces, and sculptural jewellery. These are made-to-last, everyday garments, crafted from recycled organic cotton from the Netherlands, traced alpaca yarns, and reclaimed Italian fabrics. Haastert also fosters a network of local, predominantly female artists to dress the walls and host in-store exhibitions. Toussaintkade 22, 2513 CK Den Haag

Nobel Store: Compact yet brilliantly curated, this vintage store feels straight out of your Vinted ‘saved’ items. Come to thrift in one of The Hague’s oldest buildings. Nobelstraat 1, Den Haag

BOOKSTOR: Equal parts café and indie bookshop, this 100-something-year-old building on the Noordeinde still has its original bookcases and moveable ladders to reach the upper shelves. In winter, head to the back and sit in the old conservatory with stained glass windows; come summer, sit on the terrace under the yellow-striped awnings. Noordeinde 39, 2514 GC Den Haag

Store du Nord: Everything in this Scandi-leaning men’s fashion store is handpicked by owner, Jeroen, from makers he knows personally. The bespoke raincoat service with Norwegian Rain is a real highlight. Also, just go in for a chat—Jeroen is lovely and brimming with local recommendations. Noordeinde 49, 2514 GC Den Haag

De Passage: Built in 1882, this is the Netherlands’ oldest shopping arcade. Stained glass, mosaic floors, and glass domes are all part of the charm, and you could just as easily be in Paris or Milan while deciding which flavour of homemade chocolate to take home. Passage 72, 2511 AD Den Haag

Where to eat & drink

Bartine: Blending a Copenhagen-style café, bakery, homeware market, and wine bar into one (well, two different locations), Bartine is an all-day hangout. The café (Herengracht 11 2511EG Den Haag) is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but the bakery (Piet Heinstraat 72 2518CK Den Haag) usually sells out early.

Birdflower: Garlic naan sandwiches, cheese toasties, buttery almond croissants. Professor Kaiserstraat 55, 2562 KA Den Haag

Pompernikkel: As adorable as its name, this bakery specialises in organic sourdough and from-scratch pastries. The vanilla gooseberry ice-cream special sandwiched between cinnamon rolls is the perfect antidote to a hot summer’s day. Beeklaan 370, 2562 BG Den Haag

Café Bleu: Look out for the electric blue awning, and head inside for small plates, an interesting wine list, and live jazz. Hooistraat 5, 2514 BM Den Haag

Café Constant: This corner café would look right at home in Paris. A Scheveningen neighbourhood spot for lunch and dinner, with tables spilling out onto the terrace. Neptunusstraat 2, 2586 GS Den Haag

Single Estate Coffee Roasters: Freshly roasted whole beans behind the counter, great coffee with seasonal specials, and a lovely terrace to sip your brews on. Piet Heinstraat 15, 2518 CB Den Haag

Bøg: Refined Nordic fare with a Dutch twist, served on minimalist wooden tables in an exposed brick dining room. Come hungry, but also curious. Prinsestraat 130, 2513 EB Den Haag

De Zoute Kater: This is where The Hague’s trendiest crowd comes to dine and catch-up over glasses of natural wine. The bistro’s name translates to ‘salty tomcat’ (or ‘hangover’ in Dutch slang), if that’s an invitation to pace yourself… Zoutmanstraat 53C, 2518 GM Den Haag

Glaswerk: In the Binckhorst industrial district (or ‘Binck’ for short), this chic bistro overlooks the Trekvliet canal and dishes up ingredient-led, thoughtfully presented dinners. Fokkerkade 14, 2516 CC Den Haag

Basaal: Part biodynamic bottle shop, part restaurant, the menu here changes regularly as chefs get creative with local produce. The Basque chicken with girolles and frites is a real crowd-pleaser. Dunne Bierkade 3, 2512 BC Den Haag

Bowie: Candlelit tables are filled with French-Mediterranean dishes to share from brunch to dinner, where nights start with sourdough and salted butter and end with pistachio chocolate mousse. Regentesselaan 24A, 2562 CS Den Haag

Marius Wijncafé: This café and wine shop are next-door neighbours, with an impressive sake selection alongside low-intervention bottles. The menu changes with whatever the chef picked up at the market that morning. Piet Heinstraat 93, 2518 CD Den Haag

Restobar: The terrace here gets so packed out on sunny evenings that tables are often added to the street (encouraging yet more passers-by to join). The white asparagus, fermented pear crème, and leek are summer on a plate. Nobelstraat 22 Den Haag

Where to stay

De Plesman: A striking fusion of aviation history and Dutch design, housed in a monumental 1940s building that once served as the KLM airline headquarters. Today, it’s been reimagined by Amsterdam-based studio, Nicemakers, into a refined urban retreat—with nods to its industrial heritage throughout the apartment-style spaces that are ideal for extended stays in the city. The seafood-leaning menu at Restaurant Suus takes inspiration from the hotel’s Scheveningen setting, with Dutch prawn cocktails and Gillardeau oysters to North Sea crab. Plesmanweg 607, 2597 JG Den Haag 

*Read the full Guest Book here

How to get there

The Hague shares an airport with Rotterdam, and is connected by a 30-minute, direct train to Amsterdam Schiphol. The Eurostar goes to both Rotterdam and Amsterdam Centraal, and then it’s an easy transfer to a Dutch Intercity train to The Hague.

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In short… Once the command centre for KLM, the world’s oldest operating airline, this aviation-inspired stay is redirecting boutique-loving travelers from Amsterdam to The Hague.

The surroundings… Set between leafy parkland in the Hague’s Scheveningen district, golden sands backed by dunes and the city’s diplomatic hub are a short tram ride away in either direction from De Plesman.

The backstory… Designed in 1939 by aviation-obsessed architect Dirk Roosenburg for Dutch pilot and KLM founder Albert Plesman, this copper-roofed giant survived Nazi occupation, Cold War expansion, and government-grade bureaucracy. Fast forward to the present, and Amsterdam-based design studio Nicemakers (behind The Hoxton) were called in for a top-to-bottom makeover while preserving the building’s longstanding history. For example, the signature orange awnings are here to stay, thanks to heritage restrictions in place.

The vibe… Like stepping into the cabin of a vintage aircraft, without the hassle of having to take-off or land. In addition to hotel guests, it’s open to residents renting the hotel’s serviced apartments and the local community, so there’s an all-hours buzz about the place. The architectural bones—soaring ceilings, parquet flooring, terrazzo staircases shaped like wing tips, and monumental steel-framed windows—are layered with a warm palette of dusky pinks, rust, and Hague blue. From the checkerboard-floored lobby to the turbine-inspired ceiling of the bar, there’s a sense of nostalgia for the golden age of travel without feeling over-themed.

The rooms… Herringbone parquet floors, bespoke walnut cabinetry, velvet armchairs, and buttery-soft linens make each of the 102 rooms a cocooning crash pad, with Roberts radios and kitchenettes in some of the suites upping the ‘at home’ feel. The layout is minimalist but inviting, while clever zoning creates a sense of apartment-like intimacy. Photographic prints by artists including Soo Burnell and Casper Faassen were specially commissioned for the hotel, dressing the walls alongside black-and-white pictures of KLM crew members from the airline’s archives. For the ultimate upgrade, the Plesman Suite sprawls across the building’s original executive offices, with polished wood-panelling, Warhol prints, and a show-stopping green marble bar to fix yourself a jenever (the Dutch equivalent of a G&T).

The wellness… The fitness-conscious will appreciate the big gym, while bike rentals beckon you onto canal paths or beach trails.

The food & drink… Suus, housed in the old KLM staff canteen with an airport‑control‑tower aesthetic, is named after Albert Plesman’s diplomatic wife who calmed any rising tensions between the pilots over her dinner table. There’s a generous buffet breakfast on weekdays, and a weekend brunch menu drawing locals for its smoked salmon on sourdough and Gouda-cheese burgers. Long business lunches turn into leisurely dinners (European classics whipped up with seasonal ingredients) and late-night glasses of natural wine, from the comfort of plush banquettes. Next door, Albert Bar & Lounge is your go-to for barista-made brews and clever cocktails.

Extra tip goes to… Although we didn’t actually order any wine, sommelier Priscilla van der Voort took time out of a packed dinner service to sit down in our booth with a map, and mark out all her favourite spots (including some chic wine bars within walking distance of the hotel).

Be sure to… Borrow one of the blue-maroon striped towels from reception and bike to Scheveningen beach. There are surf schools, beach clubs with loungers to rent, and a quaint pier with a Ferris wheel to stroll along (ideally as sunset approaches).

Parting words… It’s easy to tag on a couple of nights if travelling by train from Amsterdam or Rotterdam, but don’t discount visiting The Hague for a standalone sojourn. It’s a city that will pleasantly surprise you, especially with a base like De Plesman to come back to.

Date of stay… 2-3 July 2025

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In short… A heritage-listed fisherman’s inn reborn as a lakeside bolthole, De Durgerdam is where Amsterdam slips into something more comfortable.

The surroundings… It’s hard to believe Durgerdam is only a 15-minute drive from central Amsterdam, as you’ll feel a world away from the city’s bustle. Hugged by the IJmeer lake, this one-street, 600-year-old hamlet of whitewashed clapboard houses, air-drying laundry and grazing cows was once a haven for weary sailors—now, city folk come for a slower pace and a bit of salt in the air. The lake, once the Zuiderzee, glitters outside your window and frames life here—still, marshy and luminous. There’s also a vintage boat at your disposal (De Eeuw, from 1905) if you fancy arriving like the sailors of years gone by did. The hotel’s white-painted clapboard exterior acted as a moon-lit beacon for boats that would glide right up to its deck from the North Sea.

The vibe… It’s all about gezelligheid—that untranslatable Dutch word that suggests something between cosiness, conviviality and togetherness. The hotel was designed by Amsterdam-based material research studio Buro Belén, and you can feel their hand in every brushstroke and beam. Think custom tulipwood, velvet throws (arranged on the beds to resemble rippling water), ceramics from Royal Tichelaar Makkum, and coastal-inspired silhouettes. The drawing room is intimate and library-like, the restaurant breezy and open in summer. Every corner feels thoughtfully imperfect, like you stumbled into someone’s design-forward waterfront home.

The rooms… With only 14 rooms (including three suites), De Durgerdam still feels more tavern-with-rooms than hotel. Each space is dressed in handcrafted details that nod to the village’s fishing roots — local tiling, sailcloth-toned hues, wooden benches, and decorative touches like horns and shells, and undulating, wave-shaped headboards recalling maritime traditions. The rooms are named after their orientation—De Zee (the sea), De Maan (the moon), De Kerk (the church)—and arranged to optimize natural light. Expect Hypnos beds, yoga mats, a homemade fisherman’s tonic to drink before bedtime, and custom raincoats by Dutch fashion house, KASSL Editions, in the suites. Some rooms look out over meadows, others the lake, and a few open right onto the garden. The green and red knotted ropes to hang on your door to signal “come in” or “do not disturb” are another thoughtful, nautical-themed touch.

The wellness… This isn’t a robe-and-retreat kind of wellness (though there are fluffy gowns in your room to unwind in after a swim). It’s more subtle—the kind that sneaks up on you in the quiet of a morning stroll by the lake, or a glass of natural wine by the wood-burning stove. That said, you’ll find a yoga mat and dumbbells in every room, and the entire environment invites restoration. There are plans to add a floating sauna, and sustainability is baked in too—from heat pumps and solar panels to re-used rainwater systems—so you can feel good about your time here in more ways than one.

The food & drink… Restaurant De Mark is a destination in itself. A collaboration with culinary stars Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot (of Amsterdam’s two-Michelin-starred Restaurant 212 and one-Michelin-starred restaurant De Juwelier), the menu leans into the local larder—fresh cheese from a nearby farm, honey from just up the road, and seasonal everything. The interiors reflect the same sense of soul: CH37 dining chairs, Dutch tiles by the oldest ceramic factory in the country, and a dazzling pendant light by Ingo Maurer with tear-drop shaped glass strung in a net and suspended from the ceiling. In summer, doors open to a waterside terrace; in winter, the wood stove glows. Whether you’re in for a wine-paired tasting or a slow lunch with lake views, it all feels deeply Dutch.

Extra tip goes to… Viking in stature, friendly in nature, Amsterdam-hailing Stein shared some brilliant local recommendations and patiently helped us get to grips with the Dutch bicycle lock (pleasingly simple, once you know what you’re doing).

Be sure to… One of Stein’s tips was to cycle to the island of Marken—a flat, scenic ride of about 25 kilometres that takes you past wide green pastures, grazing horses and winding dikes. The route follows the edge of the IJsselmeer, eventually leading to a long causeway that delivers you straight onto the island. Once isolated by water, Marken was a fishing village known for its brightly painted wooden houses on stilts. Today, it’s a living postcard of old-world charm, where locals still wear traditional dress on special occasions, clogs are still made by hand in a workshop, and the rhythm of life follows the tides.

Parting words… As much as visiting during a heatwave meant that we experienced a high summer daydream of swimming, cycling, and dining on the dock as the sun set (which, by the way, was past 10pm), returning in winter to cozy up by the fire would cast Durgerdam in a whole new, possibly more quietening, light.

Date of stay… 1-2 July 2025

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Hello from… Ærø, a remote Danish island in the South Funen archipelago—around three hours from Copenhagen (by train and ferry). Only accessible by water (unless you have a private plane), the island’s cabin-dotted dunes, quaint fishing villages, and wildlife-filled beach meadows are still relatively undiscovered. Most visitors make port in Ærøskøbing, a beautifully preserved marina town lined with cobblestone streets of timber-framed houses with brightly painted doorways, some of which are over 750 years old. Locals mostly get about by boat and bicycle, with well-marked coastal trails criss-crossing from one tip of the island to the other—covering dramatic cliffs at nature reserve Voderup Klint, and sprawling farmland with roadside stalls selling orchard-grown goods.

Where I’m staying… Hotel The Monica, the three-bedroom boutique guesthouse of former Danish model Monica Conradsen. Geismar’s bed linens line-dry in the garden, the scent of home-baked coconut macaroons lingers in the open kitchen, and Frama bath oils keep long soaks in Room Three’s green, freestanding tub extra bubbly. Monica decorated the entire house herself, filling the library with her favourite magazines, collaborating with Danish textile designer Helene Blanche on bespoke wallpaper throughout, and even sketched the designs for her kitchen cabinetry which now hold countless cookbooks, time-honored recipes, and especially made dinnerware by Danish ceramicist Hanne Bertelsen (who is also stocked in Copenhagen’s Louisiana Design shop). Every little detail has been meticulously thought of, and yet it’s all very lived-in and laid-back. 

The best meal (or two) I had… Monica cooked every meal for us over the long weekend, using herbs from her garden and the finest cuts of meat from the local butcher. Her signature lamb and potatoes were served on a big, sharing-style plate with heaps of seasonal vegetables, followed by a velvet-smooth Valrhona chocolate cake. I also discovered the life-altering combination of marmalade on toast topped with an artisan disc of Peter Beier dark chocolate at breakfast (Monica kindly sent me home with a tin so that I could continue my chocolate-orange obsession). 

The most fun thing I did… Each morning began with a cold plunge in the Baltic Sea. There are lots of wild swimming spots around Ærø, including Kleven Havn along the coast (with its wood-fired sauna to warm up in) and Vesterstrand’s sandy shoreline, backed by colourful beach houses which have stood, exactly as they are, for over 100 years. There are baskets of waffle-knit towels, hand-embroidered sun hats, and striped robes by aiayu in each of The Monica’s rooms to keep swimmers feeling stylish and snuggly. We walked back with wet hair and salty skin and ate breakfast in our bathing suits.

The book I read… We, The Drowned by Carsten Jensen charts the seafaring story of Marstal, Ærø’s main shipping port, and four generations of its sailors who fight—and eventually defeat—the Germans by the end of WWII. You’ll feel as though you’ve vicariously sailed around the world, and yet remained anchored on Ærø all the while.

The playlist on repeat… This was very much an unplugged break, so I simply soaked up the sounds of the waves, bicycle bells clanging on cobbled streets, and distantly honking wild geese flying overhead.

What I packed… Having perused The Monica’s shop online, I knew there’d be plenty of knitwear from Guðrun & Guðrun, hand-loomed Rejkjær coats, and APOF blouses to layer if I’d packed too lightly. Not the most glamorous, but some water shoes will also come in handy for those Nordic dips.

A thing or two I learned… While visiting Hammerich’s Hus, the higgledy-piggledy holiday home of Danish sculptor Gunnar Hammerich, known locally as the Red House (just a few doors down from The Monica), we spotted rows upon rows of ceramic mugs hanging from the low ceilings. These individually designed vessels were made for each of Hammerich’s overnight guests, so that each of his creative friends (the house became a popular gathering place for painters and poets) might return for a drink.

The best thing I’m bringing home… I can’t wait to hang my Hotel The Monica bauble on my tree this Christmas. I’ve been collecting festive decorations on my travels for years, and this hand-painted addition carries lots of cosy memories from my time on the island (which also hosts the most magical winter market each December).

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The low rumble of a boat engine carries on the wind across the glassy waters of Loch Moidart in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides. Harmony, Eilean Shona’s RIB, drifts into view as the floating check-in post and boardable portal to the Branson-owned island that inspired J.M. Barrie’s Neverland, a west coast wilderness where lost boys (and girls) can wholeheartedly lose themselves in its natural beauty through a series of outdoor pursuits that indulge the inner child.

While summering on Eilean Shona (‘Sea Island’) in 1920, Peter Pan’s creator wrote to his secretary, Lady Cynthia Asquith, of his admiration for this remote, coastal landscape, “A wild rocky romantic island it is too…it almost taketh the breath away to find so perfectly appointed a retreat on these wild shores.” Wild is the word for this forest-swathed, fauna-abundant isle, with its moss-clad rocks, towering Scots pine trees dripping in lichen, and seal-strewn shoreline. Shona’s former custodian, seafaring Captain Swinburne, collected pine trees on his travels, and planted what is now one of Europe’s most diverse pinetums—an emerald-hued haven for Scotch Argus butterflies, which flit between fragrant branches with their chocolate-brown, velvety wings, and free-roaming deer which descend from craggy peaks to roar and rut come autumn.

One evening, a young stag taps his fuzzy antlers on our living room window, as he grazes on the grassy slopes just beneath the island’s old schoolhouse. This off-grid, stone-hewn property is still a (done-up) dormitory of sorts, running without electricity or WiFi, with wood-burning fires to keep the water in the roll top bathtub piping hot, and gas lanterns to light with matches once dusk settles over the valley. Coupled with the loch views at every turn, the whitewashed wood panelling which covers the floors, walls, and ceilings creates the illusion of sleeping on a ship that charts its course entirely by the stars—no signs of modern technology here, or digital devices to disrupt board games, reading time, and sticky toffee pudding on the sofa. Our wake-up call each mist-draped morning is a chorus of birds and the gentle pitter-patter of rain.

Old crofter’s cottages, a sawmill, and the main hunting lodge have been similarly converted to self-catering stays dotted in leafy pockets around the island, with screen-free interiors and sea-framing windows encouraging a proper switch-off. The latest buildings to be given a new lease of life stand right on the main harbour. The triangular, red metal roof of the Sail Loft peeps above the treeline, housing two bedrooms, a private Nordic sauna, light-flooded living and dining areas, and a freestanding tub at the foot of the Hästens bed, all spread across what was once a working boat house used to organise yacht sails after vessels were brought out of the water. Just across the gently curving bay, puffs of smoke rise from the chimney of a charming, white Edwardian hut—where the lodge’s fishing equipment was stored—which warms wild swimmers in a waterfront sauna, built by hand using beech cut from Shona’s woodland. An afternoon slips by as we repeatedly run and jump off the jetty into the breath-snatchingly cold water, swim as fast as we can back to the sauna, stoke its fire, and thaw out overlooking the ruins of Castle Tioram—the 12th-century stronghold of Clan Ranald of the MacDonalds.

Days on Eilean Shona revolve around Loch Moidart, which, together with Morar, Arisaig and Knoydart, forms part of the Rough Bounds—an almost impassible, unbridled corner of the Highlands that’s thought to be Scotland’s last true remaining wilderness. With no cars on the island, we rely on our mud-spattered hiking boots to carry us up fern-hugged, rocky pathways, over the island’s saddle, to a blue lagoon known to locals as Shoe Bay. Not marked on any map under this nickname, which is said to come from the powdery white sand that many a shoe has been lost to over the years, it’s easy to imagine mermaids combing their hair on these glistening rocks as white-tailed sea eagles soar overhead. Still barefoot as the tide begins to roll in, we put off strapping our boots back on to the very last minute, and plan to return the next day by sea kayak to shuck oysters, shell langoustine, and spot dolphins, minke whales, and basking sharks.

Though this magic-imbued tidal isle is a Neverland we never want to leave, the journey back to the mainland still feels like an adventure ahead. A trailer-towing quad bike to collect and trundle our bags to the harbour, one last hike along the North Channel coast path to bid farewell to the heron keeping watch over the lily pond, and a final gaze across the water from Harmony. We feel very much attuned to our vessel’s moniker after flying, Tinker Bell-style, well and truly under the radar this past week.

THE DETAILS

How to book… Each of the eight cottages on the island can be rented individually, or taken over in entirety when reserving the main house (with extra bells and whistles thrown in like bagpipes on arrival, boating excursions, and seafood dinners on the beach). Newly available is the Sail Loft (£3,000 per week, sleeping four), which laps against the waters of Loch Moidart itself — the only property on the island with its own sauna. The Old Schoolhouse (£2,500 per week, sleeping four) is a luxurious conversion of the long-gone island community’s school. Wonderfully isolated, this two-bedroom idyll is situated over a mile along the North Channel coast path and a 45-minute walk from the jetty where you’ll disembark. One of the prettiest available is Tioram Cottage (£3,000 per week, sleeping eight), set right on the shorefront with its own private bay area, a campfire pit and picnic table, and large, sea facing windows with stunning views over the loch to Tioram Castle.

What to pack… Firstly, the choice of luggage itself needs to be made with a boat and mud-spattered quad-bike in mind, as this is how both you and your bags will reach your cottage once you’ve parked your car on the other side of the loch. Bring a waterproof duffel bag, and fill with (yes, more waterproofs) a powerbank (no electricity in some cottages, remember), waterbottle, backpack, and sturdy shoes for hiking, water shoes for wild swimming, and enough books to see you through the week (though the shelves in each cottage are filled with page turners). Basically, whatever you would take camping, minus the tent and sleeping bag.

As this is a self-catering set-up, you’ll also need to stock up before arriving on the island with all your essentials. There is a tiny shop which sells some provisions and delicious frozen homemade meals, like venison casseroles and sticky toffee puddings to stick in the oven, but nothing fresh — so if you want your five-a-day, you’ll need to stop by a farm shop or supermarket en route (House of Bruar’s food hall is a great option if you’re coming from Edinburgh).

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In short… The White Isle’s first ever hotel has been made over from OG party pad to Dalt Vila dreamscape by Paris-based Experimental Group.

The surroundings… It feels as though you could reach out and touch Ibiza’s Dalt Vila from your bedroom window, with views of the apricot-hued Old Town framed by elegant drapes in shades of cornflower blue or bubblegum pink. Mere moments away, the yacht-lined marina and pedestrianized Vara de Rey are made for people watching.

The vibe… This lemon-meringue-coloured icon has a twinkle in its eye, having welcomed an artsy social crowd and free spirits for decades (Orson Welles, Pink Floyd, and Carolina de Monaco, to name a few). It’s wonderfully mellow during the daytime—when most guests are out beach hopping or sailing to nearby Formentera—and late afternoon slips into blissed-out DJ sets and sundowners the cocktail-crafting Experimental Group is celebrated for. There’s something very Seventies about the whole experience, that you half expect a Hollywood star to appear, barefoot and bronzed, to order a rum-heavy, ice-cold Old Cuban to sip over a game of backgammon (vibrant boards can be borrowed from reception).

The rooms… Your covetable, orange-tasselled key unlocks one of 33 rooms, over which Parisian designer Dorothée Meilichzon has waved her cosmic wand. Sea shells are imprinted into the walls adorned with ceramic masks by Mallorcan artist Anna Alexandra, and crescent moon cut-outs filter natural light between the bedroom and terracotta-clad bathroom. Scallop-edged coffee tables are laden with books on the island (flick through the sun-drenched scenes of Ibiza’s great poster artist, Oriol Maspon), and chic beach bags stuffed with burnt-orange towels are ready to grab from fringed sofas or playdough sculpted stools by Diego Faivre. Bobbin mirrors, angular rattan lighting, and geometric statement headboards complete the celestial picture. 

The wellness… There’s no spa or pool onsite at Montesol Experimental, but there’s something to be said for the vitamin-packed breakfast juices (and tomato-vodka-miso wake-up cocktails).

The food & drink… On the ground floor, Café Montesol spills onto a leafy terrace for all-day dining and drinks by Basque-born chef Alex Larrea. Breakfast (8am to 4pm)  is a leisurely affair of golden pastries, fresh fruit in a prettily presented yoghurt and granola bowl, and the option to order à la carte from hangover-curing chantilly and cinnamon French toast, chocolate crêpes, and eggs any way you like. Spanish sharing plates made using island-grown ingredients see you through lunch, and the robata menu kicks off from 7pm each evening (try to reserve the alcove table that’s studded with shells and lit by locally made ceramic candlesticks). The chimichurri beef sirloin and salt-baked red prawns pair perfectly with the signature patatas bravas. Come sunset, head up to the hotel’s rooftop for superb sushi and clever cocktails like the Shirakaba—a sake, sakura cordial, and lemon bitter concoction—overlooking the UNESCO-listed citadel. The sobrasada, brie, and honey rolls are a fabulous fusion of flavours, and the homemade mochi which melt in the evening glow are worth saving some room for.

Extra tip goes to… Montesol Experimental’s charismatic manager Grégoire Laboureur is brimming with insider tips about the island. Om Boutique was one of his stylish recommendations, where you can pick up handmade cowboy boots, Western-style leathers studded with turquoise, and molten jewellery.

Be sure to… Spend at least one day at Experimental Beach. Ask reception to reserve a sunbed, as this popular spot starts to fill up from midday. A 20-minute drive through the flamingo-dotted salt flats of Las Salinas brings you to a rocky outcrop perched above impossibly blue waters. The beach club’s palette is designed to match, with slate-grey loungers and sky-blue scatter cushions setting the scene for chilled DJ sets, generous pitchers of sangria, and salt encrusted sea bass delivered to your cabana. Enjoy a cheeky chocolate mousse in your bikini while you’re at it.

Parting words… As one of the few Balearic hotels open throughout the year, Montesol Experimental is an ideal base for experiencing off-season Ibiza when the beaches are at their most serene. Dedicate some time (and budget) to the thoughtfully curated boutiques in both the lobby and beach club, too. You’ll discover Spanish labels and Balearic artisans which will make you want to take a little piece of Ibiza home with you.

Date of stay… 25-27 May 2025

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As a self-professed Scandophile, Norway remained the missing Nordic stamp in my passport for years, until the promise of the best Northern Light displays for the next decade finally drew me to its snow-capped mountains this winter (we’re currently at the peak of a solar cycle, which means better chances for aurora chasers). Daylight hours have not quite dwindled all the way down to polar nights in late November, giving today’s Arctic explorers ample time (and space) to navigate the glacial fjordlands without the summer crowds. Almost half of the country lies above the Arctic Circle, and the most northerly regions are vast and often only connected by small, domestic propeller planes or infrequent (sometimes seasonal) ferries — making planning your itinerary as important as packing for the plummeting temperatures accordingly.

Starting in the Art Nouveau port town of Ålesund puts you right at the entrance to the UNESCO-listed Geirangerfjord and the rugged Sunnmøre Alps, best explored on a summit-to-sea ski tour or electric-powered fjord cruise with 62°NORD, expert curators of experiential, emission-free excursions in Norway. There are also round-trip boats departing from Ålesund through Trandal, Sæbø, Urke og Øye, with hop-on, hop-off tickets available along the fishing villages of Hjørundfjorden. Back on dry land, Ålesund’s Jugendstilsenteret is a center for Norwegian Art Nouveau housed within a former pharmacy, with upstairs rooms laid out as a bedroom and lounge decorated with furniture from the era, and a well-curated gift shop displayed in the original apothecary drawers on the ground floor. 

Stop by Trankokeriet, an old sea cottage selling Nordic antiques, with views across windswept waves towards Molja Lighthouse. Transformed into a luxury guesthouse, residents of Hotel Brosundet’s Room 47 can spend the night in the beacon, with a breakfast hamper delivered to the salt-sprayed door each morning. I fell asleep to the sound of the sea lapping against my waterfront suite’s walls in Brosundet’s main building, converted from old fish-packing warehouses into industrial-chic rooms and a fireside boutique stocked with Sprekenhus bath oils, pine-scented candles, and made-to-last merino knitwear from Devold and its sister brand, O.A.D. The Devold factory is just seven minutes by boat from the hotel, with outlet prices and an additional discount for guests, plus the chance to meet some of the local craftspeople at work. Armed with cashmere and cable knits, there’s no excuse not to fully embrace Nordic bathing rituals by reserving one of Brosundet’s outdoor tubs (available in 45-minute slots on the hotel’s floating deck), swapping between the sauna and icy plunges in the canal.

Freshly baked cinnamon buns and hot chocolates from Butikken kept me fuelled throughout the day’s snowstorms, with after-dark brasserie Apotekergata No. 5 downstairs serving Sunnmøre-sourced dishes like Arctic grayling roe blinis and cloudberry cheesecake. Head next door for a nightcap at Arkivet (Peder Devold ran his fish oil business from this address in 1905), a candlelit bar that hosts quayside cocktail tastings and has outdoor tables on a floating barge. Dinner at stylish seafood restaurant Sjøbua is a must (even if you’re allergic to shellfish, like me). The catch-of-the-week was halibut and grilled to perfection, followed by brioche pain perdu topped with foraged berries, and picks from the cheese trolley (supplied by local dairy farmers).

Linked to Ålesund by a series of bridges and undersea tunnels, the islands of Giske and Godøy are steeped in Viking history, with sweeping coastal paths to walk, white-tailed eagles to spot, and ancient caves to discover. Far-reaching views can be enjoyed from Alnes Lighthouse, which has a permanent exhibition by Ålesund-born painter, Ørnulf Opdahl, on the way up. Linger a while at Staurneset Cabin, an unplugged outpost on Giske’s shores available for half- and full-week rentals for up to four wilderness-loving guests. 

A half-hour’s drive in the other direction towards the small village of Glomset brings you to Storfjord, a cluster of turf-topped wooden lodges overlooking their namesake fjord. This slow life hideaway is as koselig (“cozy”) as they come, with working fireplaces in many of the suites and living rooms, a help-yourself library with traditional board games, snowshoes to borrow in the winter and walking maps to follow year-round. I hiked up Haugtua one morning, the mountain looming over my bedroom window, to admire the Sunnmøre Alps’ steep, pine-swathed slopes tumble into Storfjorden’s steely-blue expanse. A refreshing, birch-infused cordial was waiting for me back at the hotel, with yet more mountain vistas to soak up from the outdoor hot tubs and sauna.

An overnight blizzard blanketed the valley in fresh, fluffy snow, which remarkably did nothing to delay my journey further north to the Lofoten Islands (flying from Ålesund to Leknes via Bodø). Pilots are seemingly used to navigating the adverse weather conditions in these parts, but alarmingly short runways and unassigned seating on some of the smaller planes might encourage you to opt for the two-night Hurtigruten or Havila ferry to Svolvær (which doubles as a sightseeing cruise along the north-western coast). Make your heading for Nusfjord Arctic Resort, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, set within a former fishing village just beyond the majestic Flakstad mountain passes. My home for three, Northern Lights-filled nights was a traditional red rorbu, which started life as lodging for fishermen travelling from all corners of Norway for Lofoten’s bustling cod season. Still rustic, but decidedly more luxurious than when 12 sailors slept side-by-side in these weather-beaten walls, my pier-side cabin’s interiors nod to its seafaring past—lighting looks like fishing nets, linens and blinds resemble sail canvas, and boating gear hangs from the preserved timber. The two-bedroom Isolated Fisherman is the resort’s most secluded stay, set on its own island, a 10-minute boat ride from the main harbour. Elltor, Nusfjord’s fishing boat, brings fresh catches from the Arctic waters for dinner at Karoline restaurant, with the neighbouring Oriana tavern serving wood-fired pizzas in a former whisky storehouse, and private dining tables can be reserved in an old boat shed. Similarly, the village’s general store has found new purpose as a fjord-facing café, known to locals as Landhandleriet. The bright yellow, stilted building rubs shoulders with Salteriet, an art gallery with rotating exhibitions in what was once a salthouse. 

The sun only just rose above the horizon each day, bathing the over-water cabins in a soft pink light for around four precious hours. Everything here revolves around the sea, including the resort’s fishing trips and kayaking tours. I joined Captain Svein Roar on a rib excursion to spot sea eagles from the water—some were easily lured by fish and dived alongside the boat, while others nestled in the snowy crags keeping watch as we bounced over white horse waves. Eagle eyes come in handy for Nusfjord’s Northern Lights hunts, which depart on clear evenings on a night drive into the mountains (with hot drinks and homemade snacks to keep you going past midnight, if needed). The aurora belt lies directly above the Lofoten Islands, which means you’re well placed for a sighting (or three, in my case). Flashes of green and purple danced across the star-studded skies, sometimes appearing for a matter of minutes for me to shift my tripod into position. The blink-and-you-miss-it displays somehow felt more special, with a pair of emerald ribbons streaking down for just a few seconds. One of my favourite references to the aurora in Norse mythology is the glinting armour of the Valkyrie, Odin’s fearless shield maidens who rode across the skies on horseback. Whatever you choose to believe, Norway’s winter magic can be experienced in many ways, from following fox tracks in fresh snowfall to the edge of a forest, to convivial sauna chats with newfound flush-cheeked friends after (quite literally) breaking the ice for a wild swim together. 

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In short… Phāea Blue Palace is a new-look Elounda escape which eyes Spinalonga Island, made over by a creative Cretan family and their artisan friends.

The surroundings… Hugging a hillside between Elounda and the dinky fishing village of Plaka, Phāea Blue Palace cascades down several rugged tiers towards its pebbly, palapa-dotted beach (have the hotel’s zippy buggies on speed dial to avoid the steep ascent back to your room). Rock roses and pink oleanders climb up weathered stone walls, and an old carob tree offers some much-needed shade in the hotel’s organic garden—which shares its fragrant patch of cocktail-bound herbs with several adami bee hives (a breed that’s been buzzing about since the Minoan age).

The vibe… Cretan-born sisters Agapi and Costantza Sbokou recently reimagined their father’s property into a smaller-scale boutique hotel, enlisting Greek artisans like Athenian marble atelier Onentropy, ceramicists Melina Xenaki and Kallia Panopoulou, and porcelain craftsman Thomais Kontou to fill the halls with handmade objets d’art. The Sbokous’ late grandmother, Agapi, also contributed a dreamy assortment of textiles—all woven by hand on the island—to dress the entrance, lounge and library. Here, sun-kissed residents, many clad in floaty Zeus + Dione (also stocked in the boutique), sip homemade lemonade while perusing beautifully bound copies of the Greek myths.

The rooms… Split between sea view bungalows, suites and a three-bedroom villa, bedrooms are breezy, light-filled, and designed to direct the gaze towards the Mirabello Gulf. Electric blue and gold-foiled works by Greek painter Philippos Theodorides splash color across the suites’ whitewashed walls, while the bungalows are styled with summer-infused snaps from the Benaki Museum’s photography archives. Villa residents can gather around for chef-prepped barbecues, seated on a little slice of furniture history—the iconic klismos chair, made in the ‘60s by Saridis of Athens. The blue-and-white bedecked Kefalonia Suite was my home for several nights, one of the hotel’s island-inspired suites with a canopy-draped bed, deep soaking tub, private pool and terrace—all facing the deserted islet of Spinalonga (which felt even more special when a copy of Victoria Hislop’s The Island was thoughtfully placed on my bedside table at turndown).

The wellness… There’s no spa in the traditional sense, just a healing tonic of sparkly sea dips and air-drying on the windswept shingle.

The food & drink… Stuffing yourself silly is easy to do here, and yet I still found myself coming back for more hearty, home-cooked helpings. Greek culinary heavyweight Athinagoras Kostakos (of Bill & Coo, Scorpios Mykonos, and Notting Hill’s Mazi) is consulting chef, alongside Cretan-born Giannis Kalivretakis, who personally presents every dish throughout the farmers’ feast—a pop-up held in the organic garden after diners have picked their own ingredients—and each evening at Anthós, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant. The kitchen is alfresco, with a rustic set-up under an olive tree, where tender cuts of lamb and goat are rubbed in sea salt and homegrown herbs, then grilled over open flames. A breakfast spread of local cheeses, traditional pastries, seasonal fruit with Greek yogurt and honey-drizzled pancakes is laid out inside (the best table is beneath the Hellenic hanging plates from the Benaki Museum). Head down to the beach for seafront dining at the Blue Door Taverna, a converted fisherman’s cabin with salt-baked fish and massive meze trays (including some of the best tzatziki I’ve ever eaten) on the menu. You can also learn how to make dolmadakia (stuffed vine leaves) in a Cretan cooking class, taste your way through a Greek wine flight, and help yourself to the martini trolley wheeled around Votsalo Bar.

Extra tip goes to… My mother and I quite seriously discussed moving in with Maria, who welcomed us with a hug (and shots of raki) before every meal, and generously gave us some bottles of olive oil from her family’s groves. “Don’t waste it in a saucepan,” she warned, “you can taste it best in a Greek salad.”

Be sure to… Sail around Spinalonga aboard the hotel’s caïque (a traditional fishing boat). The skipper also stops off in a crystal-clear cove for you to swim in, and prepares a picnic on deck of watermelon and feta salad, garlicky pita bread, hummus, and mint-cucumber sandwiches.

Parting words… Take the scent of Cretan holidays home with you by purchasing the hotel’s Zeus + Dione collab candle set, molded into shapes of Greek pottery and oil lamps using the island’s honeysuckle and honeycomb.

Date of stay… May 2024

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