The surroundings… Portman Square is in a very residential part of Marylebone, but so convenient to Chiltern Street shopping, Mayfair, and a five-minute walk to the Bond St. and Marble Arch tube stations. It’s a block from one of our favorite special occasion restaurants, Kol, and one our favorite spots for a bacon roll, Marble Arch News.

The vibe… Minimalist Japanese interiors with a 7-meter-tall kinetic sculpture by British artist Ivan Black at the center of the lobby. Because it’s a very open floor plan, it has a vibrant energy–there are a lot of people in the lobby having meetings, and in the adjacent bar area–so it feels alive. However, once you’re upstairs in your room, it’s the complete opposite.

The rooms… Cozy chic—we had a one-bedroom suite with oak-paneled walls and floor-to-ceiling windows, which meant lots of daylight even on a grey day. Japanese touches throughout—from the tea setup to the lighting fixtures. And so well soundproofed—we never heard anyone above or beside us, or anyone from the hall, or a beep from the street. 

The food & drink… When we’re in London, we rarely eat or drink in the hotel, but we did have lunch at Nobu and it was delicious—as expected! We aren’t breakfast people, but I did check out the buffet when I went there to grab a coffee. It was fine, but not great—I would have expected some Japanese options, but it was pretty standard fare. 

The wellness… They have a great daylit gym with lots of Technogym equipment and plenty of space to stretch. There are also two Pilates studios.

Date of stay… October 23-26, 2025

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There are very few things in the travel universe that I have a hard time getting behind—cruises definitely top that category, and I’ve always had a strong aversion to the fanny pack. This summer, my dear friend Pilar came to visit us in France, and was wearing a little leather Il Bisonte pouch in a cross-body way. Turns out it’s called a “belt bag,” which is what the bag fka a fanny pack has been called since the 2010s (if Chat GBT is to be trusted). Once I saw how Pilar was wearing it, it was an epiphany. I needed to get over my hangup. It’s not the nylon Jansport fanny pack the athletic moms wore to soccer games when you were a kid—these are super cool, fit close to the body (read–no shoulder/neck issues), and are great for travel and if you’re stuck in a rainstorm. After said epiphany, we went deep on our search for more belt bag options, and our favorites are below. Who knows, maybe we’ll influence you too.

Top row, left to right:

L/Uniform belt bag – Geniusly, the shoulder strap is adjustable so you can completely remove it and use this as a clutch, wear it as a crossbody, or double wrap the strap and use it as a belt bag. 

Clare V Grande Fanny – Our deputy editor Alex wore this constantly on her recent trip to Marrakech—it was perfect for keeping valuables close to the body when walking through the crowded medina, and is a much chicer alternative to some more utilitarian options (she swapped between the black-cream sporty strap for day and the matching brown leather strap for evening).   

Il Bisonte bag – Our friend Pilar wore this cross-body style when she came to France this summer and it looked so good, it made us rethink everything about belt bags.  

Polène Numéro Sept Belt – We love the minimalistic nature of this belt by Polène with gold hardware that dresses it up, ideal for transitional packing. 

Middle row, left to right:

This Ruskin Clutch can be transformed into a cross-body or fanny pack with a matching leather strap, perfect for packing light and day-to-night conversions. 

Quince Box Belt Bag – This woven box-shaped bag looks like Bottega for a fraction of the price. 

This Longchamp belt bag reads traditional fanny pack in shape, but chic travel bag in function and design in caramel leather. 

Bottom row, left to right:

Cuyana Crescent Belt Bag – While it may not be as practical as the others for everyday usage, this structured belt bag by Cuyana comes in an elegant croc style, and the gold hardware means it’s suitable for dinner dressing. 

The Row belt bag – Only The Row would make a fanny pack so chic and minimalistic that we would imagine paying this price. 

Parker Thatch Sling – They make such great travel workhorses, and this sling bag comes in a really beautiful chestnut suede that would go with anything. It’s on the bigger side, so more of a crossbody, but can be worn across your waist as well. 

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In short… A very minimalist-chic, 35-room hotel that opened this summer in the small town of Cargese, which overlooks the sea. And it’s a Costa Meno—in the €200 range in high season! 

The surroundings… On the island’s less-developed west coast, Mylos Hôtel Cargèse is a 45-minute drive from the nearest airport in Ajaccio, where Napoleon was born. The hotel’s name nods to its Greek roots—it was settled by refugees from the Mani peninsula in the Peloponnese, who fled the Ottoman Empire and were given this land by the Genoese Republic, the owners at the time. The town is so lovely and completely caught in time. It sits up high, perched on the hill, with a marina down below and beautiful views out to sea. There are a couple of cafés filled with locals and their dogs, a sleepy bar with decor that hasn’t changed in at least 50 years, and several good restaurants—plus a sandy beach just five minutes to the north.

The backstory… While the area is so lovely with its incredible beaches, great hiking and excellent food, it’s surprisingly lacking in interesting hotels. A local decided to change that, put together a great team, and hired Charlotte, the most lovely manager (also a local), who has impeccable taste and recommendations.

The vibe… Minimalist and almost brutalist, with a focus on blending into the landscape—in fact, the exterior color derives from the aggregate that came directly from the land when they began construction. Most of the hotel rooms are in the main building, which has a lot of outdoor space, including an interior courtyard with a tree at the center (they built the hotel around it) and open-air corridors. Above that is the pool area, with great views out to the sea, and the restaurant terraced above that.

The rooms… We were in one of their smallest rooms (109), but looked at several other rooms while they were being cleaned. The interior design was done by Dorothée Meilichzon, who is responsible for a lot of hotel interiors I really like (the Hotel Regina in Biarritz is a favorite). It’s very simple, doesn’t shout, with clever details and just enough signifiers to make you feel like you’re in a really cool hotel. Picture a strong color palette (olive green, maroon), exposed concrete walls and ceilings, and mirrors where they hand-write welcome notes to the guests. Next visit, I’ll make sure we get one of the more spacious rooms to the side of the main building: flat-roofed single-story rooms with small terraces—nothing better than having your own personal outdoor space.

The food & drink… We had dinner at Teos, their excellent restaurant, which was inventive but not fussy at all—Greek meets Corsican. We shared the eggplant salad starter and the grilled beef, and while we rarely spring for dessert, after watching our neighbors devour a pavlova, we decided to go for it—and didn’t regret it. We had a sunset view that was spectacular. The breakfast buffet is very tasteful—local charcuterie, breads, cereals, yogurts and chestnut cakes, and caramel cookies that we still dream about.

The wellness… They are opening a spa next year!

Is it kid-friendly? Given how terraced it is, I wouldn’t suggest it for toddlers, but great for babes in arms, and kids upwards of five.

Be sure to… Definitely make the drive to Arone beach–bring your own umbrella, and head to one of the three restaurants on the beach.

Date of stay…September 19-21, 2025

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The surroundings… The Domaine de Murtoli is located in the Sartène area of Southern Corsica, a very wild and untouched region. We almost drove past the property—it has no signage, only our Google pin alerted us that we had arrived. It’s mountainous, but you’re just a 15-minute drive on a dirt road to the sea–expect to see herds of cows, flocks of ducks, and the occasional wild boar as you drive through the maquis, the scrubby dense vegetation that is everywhere on the property.

The backstory… The Domaine opened in 1993 when Paul Canarelli, its founder, began renting out converted shepherds’ huts on the estate he inherited from his grandfather. Their Hotel de la Ferme opened in 2021, and their newest hotel, A Mandria, opened in June 2025. He still runs the estate today with his daughter, Santa, who is the general manager.

The vibe… Since it’s such a massive property, the vibe shifts drastically depending on where you are—but it has a predominantly chic French clientele and feels very understatedly cool. Everything is hidden and discreet—you don’t see any houses from the road, and the cabanas on the beach are set back away from the sea, against the maquis. Nature gets to show off here—the guests may be cool, but they are here to be quiet and appreciate this almost mad wonder of a place. The only outlier to this is the color purple, which pops up in the interiors—it was the favorite color of the owner’s wife and when they opened, they became known for it.

The rooms… Our room in the Hotel de la Ferme had a lot of details that nodded to its farmhouse origins—big beamed ceilings, stone walls, and wooden floors…with Sardegnan soft wool carpets and lovely antiques throughout. We toured some of the rental properties, and they are so charming that we immediately asked about them for ourselves for next year. A Mandria is a bit further from the beach and the restaurants, but it is a less expensive option than the Ferme. It feels a bit more modern, and has individual pools in some of the rooms.

The food & drink… Normally I am not a buffet person, but this buffet was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. To set the scene: you park your car on the side of the road and walk through the maquis on a driftwood-encased boardwalk for at least five minutes—it’s that long—until you reach the beach. At that point, hidden inside the maquis, La Table de la Plage, with driftwood tables and chairs. It’s so raw yet so sophisticated. The buffet is spread out across many different stations, so there is only a line at the dessert table (the French sure love their desserts). It’s overwhelming how beautiful all the food is—the most simple tomatoes, more complex salads, unfussy everything, from prawns to whole fish to meats to charcuterie. After lunch, guests of the hotel can sit in the cabanas and go for a swim on the most perfect beach, and guests of the restaurant can just enjoy the beach. I didn’t think anything could top that experience until we went to dinner at La Table de la Grotte. I had no idea what this place was like, and I’m glad I didn’t, as it was a complete surprise. It’s a restaurant built into a massive candle-lit cave, with really slippery floors that you carefully walk up to get to the next level, where you’re greeted by the staff. All the tables are set in and around the caves—ours was right next to an alcove that had a big overhang, and our server had to duck each time he came to bring us food. It’s a set menu, but a very simple Corsican meal. We started with a hearty vegetable soup, followed by a cannelloni with local cheese and wild mint, roasted lamb, local cheeses, and creme caramel. The wine pairings were brilliant—I love Corsican wine, and it isn’t something we have much opportunity to try outside of the island.

The wellness… I didn’t experience the spa during my short visit.

Is it kid-friendly? Yes, super kid-friendly. They have a kids’ club, offer babysitting services, and other than La Table de la Grotte, I think everywhere would be great to bring children.

Be sure to… Be there on a Sunday for the buffet, and don’t miss dinner at La Table de la Grotte.

Date of stay… September 19-21, 2025

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Several years ago, I was in Atlanta at my friends Sid and Ann Mashburn’s store for a book signing that Matt was doing. I picked up a safari shirt in a light khaki—it was my first safari shirt ever—and it was an epiphany for me. It felt rugged but also chic—a bit like Sigourney Weaver in The Year of Living Dangerously. I got so many compliments on it and I wanted it in more colors, but they stopped making it. Then this spring, Ann texted me that they were making it again, but in a better fabric. Still that stiff-ish cotton, which means that it sort of stands up on its own and doesn’t hug the body (great if it’s super hot out, or you’ve overindulged), but also now has a tiny bit of stretch in it, so it’s very comfortable and you can even sleep in it on an overnight flight. It’s also so versatile—dresses up and down, perfect with jeans or a tailored trouser. Ann’s shirt was definitely my gateway to this style, and now I seek it out in vintage markets and also other brands who do it well. Below are my favorites:

1. This is the Ann Mashburn Safari Shirt I love! I can’t wait to wear it in the fall and winter, when I can either put a turtleneck underneath it, or a sweater over it. I might also pick it up in this camo (#10) version.  When I was buying the above shirt, I also picked up this short sleeve one because I just wanted something new for our vacation in Greece. It’s super light, works casually with shorts, but also under a linen blazer if you need something a bit more dressed up. 

2. Our friends at Giuliva Heritage always have a good safari shirt or jacket in their collection. This linen belted version is very cute for summer, especially in stripes. 

3. Love this very chic option by Courrèges, which happens to also be very much on sale.

4. This Boden version is easy and a great price. 

5. This cotton and wool safari shirt by Tod’s leans well-tailored men’s shirt (also on sale!).

6. A heavier option in wool from Giuliva Heritage for the colder months, which can be dressed up or down.

7. This Ralph Lauren cotton safari shirt is super chic.

8. For an elegant Italian option, we love this one by Aspesi. 

9. Drake’s makes a more versatile and androgynous option in a linen short sleeve. 

10. The Ann Mashburn Safari Shirt in camo.

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Earlier this year I found myself heading to Dresden, as my husband and I were invited to visit A. Lange & Söhne, a company that has been making watches by hand in the tiny town of Glashutte since 1845. Our visit coincided with our daughter’s spring break, so we made a whole trip around it, beginning in Vienna, then Dresden, Prague, and finishing in Berlin. I had no idea what to expect—I’m usually not with Matt when he is visiting watchmakers, something he does frequently, both for his magazine Wm Brown and for his book, A Man & His Watch (his first was published in 2017 and he’s now working on the second edition, to be published in 2027).

I wasn’t sure how Clara and I, the non-watch nerds, would fare. Watch, car, sports talk… I always feel like a bit of an outsider—the people who are into these worlds are really into it—and while I so appreciate the level of craftsmanship, when talk turns to tourbillons I’m a bit lost.

We arrived in the evening and checked into the Grand Hotel Taschenbergpalais, which recently reopened as a Kempinski after an extensive renovation, and is so lovely—the rooms feel modern but reference their history, and the food and beverage program is strong, with a big emphasis on local, even if it caters to a very international crowd. The next morning we drove about 40 minutes to Glashütte, which is the home base not only for A. Lange & Söhne, but nine other watch companies, in a little town of only 7,000 residents. Our tour was just incredible—we got to see every department that works on just one component of each watch. The level of focus and their passion for what they’re doing, plus just how many hands and how many hours go into these beautiful timepieces… both Clara and I were riveted. Afterwards we went to the watch museum in town, which had a huge collection of timepieces, from wall clocks to pocket watches to wristwatches.

The next day we explored the town of Dresden, which I had a hard time putting my head around. I had seen the before-and-after war photographs, and was expecting to see more residual damage. Instead, here was what looked like a perfectly preserved Saxon city. Looking at it, you’d never imagine that it wasn’t original—there is nothing Disney or new about it at all, it just looks like it’s always been this way. In reality, the rebuilding started in the early ‘90s, continuing through 2005, with the Palace completed in 2021. It’s just so impressive to see the craftsmanship that went into it, and the pride the locals take in it—the adults of today grew up living in a city of ruin. We got a behind-the-scenes tour of Semperoper Dresden, the opera house—razed in 1945 and rebuilt 40 years later—that was once the home stage of Wagner and Strauss, visited the very impressive Dresden Zinger museum, and checked out the Royal Palace. I was particularly taken with the Fürstenzug (the Procession of Princes), the world’s largest (102 meters) porcelain artwork that miraculously survived the WWII bombing of the city.

Our next day we drove to Meissen, which porcelain collectors will be familiar with. It’s a beautiful factory in a charming little village, and Matt and I kept saying we couldn’t understand how we hadn’t seen or heard of it before. (Of course, once we got to Berlin we saw it everywhere, from stores to the flea market.) And we ended the afternoon with a visit to a local winery, Schloss Proschwitz, which had excellent wines and a lovely tasting, overlooking Meissen. 

While there, I received so many messages from friends who have come to the area because they are A. Lange & Sohne watch collectors, or they have family in the area, or one whose daughter is going to the Bauhaus school in Weimar. I collected all of their notes for my future Saxony road trip. It’s so rare that you can go somewhere and feel like you’ve seen no Americans, and the locals are genuinely giddy to have you there. After being in so many places that are just oversaturated with tourists, this area feels like a breath of fresh air, and we just barely scratched the surface.

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I first met Tanya Rose at the Buchinger Wilhelmi clinic on Germany’s Lake Constance, and liked her immediately. The co-founder of London-based Mason Rose, she’s the powerhouse PR behind brands like Airelles, Grand Hotel Tremezzo and Gstaad Palace—which, I learned when reading about her background, was her “teenage playground,” having grown up in the glamorous mountain town rubbing shoulders with the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Roger Moore on school holidays. She’s fun and irreverent, which you’ll get if you listen to her Travel Secrets podcast. Given how much time she spends on a plane, we wanted to get her to download her favorite hotels, in-air rituals, dream airplane, and tricks for making a hotel room feel like home.

How often do you travel?

I usually travel at least once a month, but sometimes two to three times a month!

Most recent passport stamp?

Istanbul

What’s your travel uniform? 

My travel uniform is always from ME+EM: sneakers and a blazer from their travel tailoring collection, plus a cashmere cream shawl from Bamford.

Go-to luggage for a short trip? Long trip?

Rimowa. I never do hand luggage; I always have bags in the hold. I tried it once, I started with one bag and ended up with five and they all fell on the floor!

Hardest-working item you bring?

My cashmere shawl on the plane, which I also wear in the evenings if it’s cool outside.

Airport routine?

I check in, then decamp to Gordon Ramsay for breakfast or the British Airways Business Lounge if it isn’t an early-morning flight. I always get cigarettes from Duty Free and never enter an airport without taking a chance with a Euromillions lottery ticket!

Favorite airport?

London Heathrow as I know I’m leaving the cold in Blighty for new destinations, warmer climates and exciting adventures.

Favorite airport lounge/club?

Definitely the British Airways First Class/Concorde Lounge.

Best duty-free you always stop in/best duty-free score?

I always take advantage of the Duty Free for cigarettes for my husband and Jo Malone Red Roses perfume.

Window or aisle? Go-to seat number?

I prefer an aisle seat in the first row on the left hand side of the plane

Any in-air rituals?  

I don’t travel without my Trinny London miniatures and Lyma laser for my skin. I love to download podcasts and all the Netflix shows I want to binge watch on my ipad which is fully loaded before I fly anywhere.

What’s always in your carry-on? 

The Anya Hindmarch travel bag is my absolute favourite because it fits all of my essentials so beautifully, such as my Sonos headphones, my Bamford cashmere shawl, Trinny London lipstick stacks, Anya Hindmarch eye mask, Werther’s Originals sweets, Victoria Beckham eyeliner, iPad, writing journal. I always take advantage of a long flight to write in my journal and usually come up with very creative ideas and good action plans.

Three favorite hotels in the world?

La Colombe d’Or in St Paul de Vence in France

Dunton Hot Springs in Colorado

Ett Hem in Stockholm

Do you have a favorite destination spa?

I would say the family-run therapeutic fasting and integrative medicine clinic, Buchinger Wilhelmi, located on Lake Constance.  I go there each year for a full reset.

Consistently favorite hotel brand?

Peninsula, Royal Mansour and Airelles. I can’t narrow it down to just one!

Most memorable meal you’ve had while traveling?

I had the most unforgettable picnic made for me to take on the plane by the Peninsula Beverly Hills. The caviar, smoked salmon and Meursault wine were unbelievable… I was the envy of every passenger on that flight!

Any jet-lag wisdom?

I swear by the Lemme Sleep gummy for jetlag (a brand created by one of the Kardashians), but normal melatonin is great too.

Go-to room service order?

A hamburger on arrival!

Tricks for making a hotel room feel like home?

I spritz the room with my travel-size Rachel Vosper room spray!

Best in-room amenity you’ve come across?

The nail drier in all Peninsula hotels without a doubt.

Best hotel gym?

I never go to the gym myself but the reformer Pilates room at Maxx Royal Bodrum is fabulous.

Your favorite airline/hotel rewards program?

British Airways as I’m keen to keep my silver/gold card…

Your dream airplane would have…

A double bed, caviar, and a TV—like the Qsuites on Qatar Airways. But a private jet would be lovely too, as it avoids all of the hassle at the major airports.

Best in-flight conversation/seat-mate encounter?

I never talk to anyone when I’m flying but my husband’s best friend sat next to Whitney Houston on the Concorde and pretended to be the number one horse breeder in the world because he thought that being a banker was too boring!

First thing you do when you get home.

I indulge in a cup of tea because you never get as good a cuppa anywhere else in the world!

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In short… An iconic property that has been in the same family since 1834

The surroundings… Overlooking the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius, the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria is in the center of Sorrento, but feels like it’s an island within it, with its massive garden on three sides, and sea-facing side perched up on the cliffs. It has its own private elevator to bring guests from the hotel down to the port, where ferries come and go from Naples, Capri and Ischia.

The backstory…The hotel has been in the Fiorentino family since it opened, and is now run by the 5th and 6th generations. It has so much history—from being a part of the Grand Tour, to all the famous guests who have come throughout the last 190 years: royalty, musicians like Pavarotti who even has a suite named after him, Sophia Loren… really, everyone who was anyone stayed here at some point. They have a massive archive in the back of house, but much of it is scattered throughout the hotel in vitrines. 

The vibe… If you love old school, you will love this place. Walking from its street entrance—which brings you from the busy center of Sorrento through an incredible garden with citrus and palm trees, as well as some Roman ruins found when they built the hotel—to the front doors of the hotel, you really have no sense of time, no signifiers to tell you what century you’re in. The public spaces are completely preserved, but because they aren’t overstuffed with too much furniture or knick-knacks, they don’t feel dusty or old at all.

The rooms… The first room we checked into was one of their more modern rooms with a beautiful terrace, but we were there for the old-school experience, so as soon as we saw it we asked for a traditional room. If you’re like us, make sure you ask for a classic-style room when you’re booking. Our second room was filled with antique furniture, built-in closets (harking back to a time when people traveled with trunks, fully unpacked and stayed a while), and hand painted ceilings.

The food & drink… The breakfast buffet is served in the beautiful Vittoria restaurant, and if you’re a sweet breakfast person, you’ll be very happy as they have countless cake choices. We went to the hotel’s new bar, La Pergola, with the Fierentino family, and tried their latest cocktails, made by super thoughtful bartenders. This was followed by a great dinner of a whole local fish baked in salt at L’Orangerie, their casual poolside restaurant, which is the only area that has been modernized. Don’t skip their arancello, their version of limoncello made with their oranges. They also make a fantastic limoncello, which I normally can’t stand, but they don’t add sugar and it tastes so much of the place. There’s also a beautiful terrace for drinks and lunch, but we didn’t have time for that on this trip.

Is it kid-friendly? I didn’t spend any time at the pool, but apparently there is a dedicated kids’ pool and play area, and they have family suite options.

Be sure to… Head to Marina Grande, a 10-15 minute walk to the other side of town. Once you’re out of Sorrento’s main square, which is always very busy with tourists, it is a lovely and magical walk. Stop into A. Stinga, an old-world intarsia workshop, where they make the most beautiful wood inlay objects by hand.

Parting words…It’s so rare to be able to stay in a real piece of history, and even rarer to be able to meet the custodians of the property who have grown up in it and around its stories.

Date of stay… September 11-13, 2025

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The surroundings… On the Amalfi Coast in the tiny village of Conca dei Marini, Borgo Santandrea is just 3.5km from Amalfi—they have a shuttle that will get you there in 10 minutes. We like driving, so we rented a car at the Naples train station, but most guests opt to have a driver bring them (navigating those narrow winding roads behind buses or bad drivers isn’t for everyone), or, if you’re really splurging, arrange a boat transfer. It’s a 3-minute boat ride (the hotel’s boat will shuttle you over) to the wonderful La Tonnarella (Jackie Kennedy’s favorite!) and, while we didn’t leave the property, other guests we met took day trips to Capri, Lo Scoglio, and da Adolfo.

The back story… Built in the ‘60s as the Grand Hotel Saraceno, Maurizio and Salvatore Orlacchio—brothers from Ischia—along with another family, bought the property in 2017 and took four years to renovate it. Obsessed with Gio Ponti, Salvatore wanted a place to house his collection, and the blue and white of Gio Ponti suits the location perfectly. 

The vibe… Often these five-star bucket-list splurgy hotels can end up being too quiet—everyone wanting to be proper and on best behavior. So they can end up feeling romantic, not sexy; stiff rather than fun. BSA definitely falls in the fun camp—in part because its general manager, Maurizio, is exactly that. He has a constant sparkle in his eye, smile on his face, and makes everyone feel so welcome—so he sets the tone of you’re here to have a good time and feel at home. 

The rooms…Our room 802 had windows across it with views to the sea and the coastline. We also had a giant terrace with sunbeds on it. The bed was super comfortable, with linens from Italian family-owned company Rivolta Carmignani. Big bathroom with a tub (love when there’s a giant bowl of bath salts you can help yourself to) and Aqua di Parma products (although I wish they were in refillable containers!), and a Dyson hairdryer (which my husband loves). Each afternoon, a treat was delivered—a delicious little cream filled pastry along with some savory biscotti. 

The food & drink… There are three restaurants: Alici, their Michelin-starred restaurant; Marinella, their more casual restaurant above the beach; and the Beach Club Pizzeria & Grill. Since my only food intolerance is fussy food, I always avoid Michelin restaurants in hotels, so I didn’t check out Alici. Marinella was fantastic—we had a tasting of local traditional pastas, and the Genovese won, but the Nerano was excellent as was the Direttore (named after Maurizio, since this is his invention). The pizza is delicious for lunch at the Beach Club. But the thing that they really pride themselves on here is breakfast. Maurizio explained that this is where they really go all out—they even have a guy who they call the Breakfast Ambassador, and he shows the guests all the options. While for a minute I thought it was a bit too schticky, I realized that so often I don’t know what I’m looking at in a breakfast buffet, and it’s usually something local and really interesting. They also serve breakfast until noon, so if you’re a late riser this feels very luxurious. The Plumbago Bar makes excellent cocktails—I even veered from my traditional martini with Tanqueray 10 and enjoyed their local gin, which had just a touch of lemon—and their bar snacks of caper berries and picked baby onions, which I’m copying as soon as I get home.

The wellness…There’s a gym with both indoor and outdoor facilities, Technogym equipment and some cardio machines. Morning yoga classes happen on the outdoor terrace, and if you’re a stair climber, this place is bliss! I had an excellent deep-tissue massage at their spa.

Is it kid-friendly?  Kids over eight are allowed, but for me, this is not a family hotel. Besides it being super sexy and a place that is filled with couples who either don’t have kids or left theirs at home, it has so many stairs, so you’ll have to hear them complaining or worry about them running and falling.

Be sure to…There’s a sauna on the terrace just next to the pool which has an incredible view to the sea. If you’re a sauna person, you’ll appreciate how hot they keep it. 

Special shout out goes to…  Luca the boat captain was incredibly sweet when he brought us over to La Tonnarella, giving me his WhatsApp to text him when we were close to ready. On the ride back to the hotel, he asked for my phone and took so many photos of me and Matt. 

Date of stay…Sept 9-11, 2025

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The surroundings… On a promontory about five minutes past Positano sits this iconic property, built onto and into the cliffs. Terraced gardens flank it on one side, with the cliffs above the charming da Adolfo restaurant on the other, and nothing but sea in front of it. Even if you’re in a very touristed area you feel nothing of it here, unless you choose to go into town, which you can get to by either car or boat shuttle.

The backstory… This promontory was a lifelong dream of its founder, Carlo Cinque, who opened it in 1970. He was a great visionary, and you can feel his influence in everything from the big picture to the tiny details.

The vibe… Timeless, classic, with a very sexy beach club. Throughout the hotel, everything and everyone feels very familial–of course, it makes sense given that it is family-run. Virginia Cinque, the 90-year-old proprietor who runs the hotel with her sons (the third generation), took over the hotel when her uncle, founder Carlo Cinque, passed away in 1996, and it was so sweet to see her around the property with her dog, Stella. Many of the staff have been working there since they became adults (or younger!)—our shuttle driver to Positano told us that he started working as a young boy at Il San Pietro when it opened—helping his father, who was an employee—and he was deputized to be the elevator boy. Clearly they do a great job making their guests feel that this is their home, as they have a 41% return guest rate. Guests are definitely on the well-behaved special occasion side of their personalities—it isn’t a party place.

The rooms… All of the rooms have private terraces and sea views.  We were in room 19, which is in the “elite” category and approximately 40 sq meters, whereas the “classic” entry room is around 22 sq meters—but honestly, if you have a terrace and a bed, how much more do you need? We spent most of the time on the terrace looking at the boats below! The bed/sheets/pillows were great as you’d expect—all the decor and art was very tasteful. The bathroom had a tub and separate shower, and I really liked their products, which had a great scent. They use refillable bottles, so you’re not taking them home with you, but at checkout they give you a parting gift, a box of their hand soaps.

The food & drink… We ate lunch and dinner at Carlino, their seaside restaurant, and absolutely loved it. We’ll never forget it as the first place we had pasta alla Genovese, which may sound like it’s from Genoa, but it’s actually Neapolitan—a slow-cooked onion and meat sauce that is divine, served with casarecce pasta. The club sandwich was also stellar! I don’t know if there’s a prettier place to have a cocktail than at the Terrace Bar—the views are outstanding, and the bartenders are as well. (A special shout-out to Michelangelo!) And while I’m normally just a coffee/maybe a yogurt sort of person in the morning, the breakfast here isn’t to be missed. It was quite a challenge to stay away from their pastries and tarts—they are just beautiful. Instead, I tried their buffalo ricotta, which was so good, alongside the micro-greens from their garden, which are incredible. The only other time I’ve had greens that are so good you don’t want to put a thing on them, and want to eat each one individually, was at a hippie farm in Northern California. 

The wellness… I love nothing more than an outdoor gym, especially one that is covered by trellissed lemon trees, looking out towards the sea. There are several bikes, treadmills, and a rowing machine outside, as well as some weights, kettlebells, and a TRX system. There’s also an indoor gym, and every day at 9am there’s a pilates or yoga class outside near the sea. While I didn’t do any spa treatments, a quick look at the menu makes me wish I’d done a Sublime Skin facial, which uses Kobido techniques. There’s also what I’d say must be the most beautiful tennis court in the world, and Matt took a tennis lesson with Francesco and loved it! When we checked out, we were surprised to see that a lesson was only 60 euros.

Is it kid-friendly? The hotel doesn’t accept children under 10.

Extra tip goes to… Andrea Zana is the general manager and is truly the most present GM I’ve ever encountered at a hotel. So often I’m at a hotel and never meet the GM, or they come out to say hello when I arrive, never to be seen again. They’re often in suits and very formal. Andrea is anything but. He’s omnipresent—no matter the time of day, you run into him and he finds a way to chat even for five seconds with everyone who walks by, without your feeling like he’s constantly being interrupted. It’s a great skill. Most of the time I saw him he was hugging guests, either as they were arriving or leaving. Truly a passionate person who loves his job, which is a joy to see.

Be sure to… Take the stairs (approximately 400) to the beach. It will bring you through their beautiful gardens filled with herbs, peppers, tomatoes and citrus, etc. It’s absolutely divine. They also have great programming that’s included in the stay—from a two-hour coastal boat tour to Italian lessons, to cocktail master classes. Andrea the GM told me that many guests start their first Italian lesson during their stay, go home and continue, and come back the following year actually speaking with some confidence. 

Parting words… At 55 years old, this hotel has had plenty of years to become many guests’ favorite. I finally got to stay, and I have to say it’s now my favorite hotel in the world!

Date of stay… September 7-9, 2025

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