In 2006 my family spent the summer up here, when my mom worked as a nurse at a sleepaway camp. I remember how undeveloped it felt: the craggy coves just off the road were some of the most beautiful beaches I’d ever seen, yet they were completely empty. We always knew we wanted to come back and see how it evolved. Nearly two decades later, the gas station we once frequented had a fresh coat of paint and a few potholes had been filled in, but otherwise, it felt wonderfully the same.   

Where I’m staying… Pilgrim’s Inn, set on a narrow strip between a pond and the ocean, in a small downtown that’s little more than a post office, library, bank, a 44 North Coffee outpost, and an art gallery. The inn has 12 rooms in the main house plus three cottages, with a big yard and garden that slope down toward the pond. The interiors are cozy, if a bit dated, but rooms start in the $200s, so it felt like a great Costa Meno option. 

The dining room has a warm, tavern-like feel—think Maine’s version of Stissing House—with low-beamed ceilings, weathered wood floors and walls, giant fireplaces and candlelit tables. We had a casual dinner there one night, but our favorite part of the stay was breakfast: you fill out  an order card the evening before, then pick up your packaged breakfast in the morning to take wherever you’d like. We enjoyed ours on a picnic table, sipping coffee beneath an apple tree by the pond. And if you’re an early riser, don’t miss the serious coffee and tea station in the living room, stocked with a little army of French presses, a kettle, and fridge of milk. 

The best meal (or two) I had… I’m a New Englander through and through—I learned to crack open a lobster before I could ride a bike—so I don’t say lightly that the lobster at Abel’s on Mount Desert Island was the best I’ve ever had. It’s a bit of a drive from Deer Isle, but after a bracing dip in Acadia’s icy waters, we headed to Abel’s to warm up with lobster and corn boiled in seawater over an open fire. Sitting at a picnic table with salty skin and wet hair, overlooking a craggy harbor with drawn butter dripping down my chin, was easily the best meal of the summer. 

We also had lunch at The Lost Kitchen, Erin French’s famed restaurant that put the town of Freedom on the map. While dinner reservations are lottery-only, won by sending in a postcard, anyone can pop into the cafe for lunch. It’s much more casual than their dinners—you order at a counter and find a seat beneath an umbrella outside—but the food was exceptional, and the shop connected to the cafe was fun to browse while we waited. 

Other highlights: dinner at the Brooklin Inn that ended with a delicious blueberry crème brûlée, and roadside lobster rolls pretty much every day. 

The most fun thing I did… Driving around aimlessly, pulling over at whatever farm stand, antiques store, or seafood shack caught our eye. A highlight was Big Chicken Barn in Ellsworth, a 21,000-sq-ft former poultry barn. The ground floor is a treasure trove of old maps, cameras, nautical gear, and things that could have only originated from someone’s grandpa’s attic, while the top floor houses Maine’s largest bookstore, with more than 150,000 titles of rare and out-of-print books, plus an incredible archive of magazines and ads dating back to the 1850s. The Nat Geo shelves were roped off, but I scored a few old issues of Holiday for $5 each. 

What I read… At a gas station just over the NH/Maine border I picked up a copy of a local paper called Midcoast Villager, and immediately read their entire special edition summer guide. It had everything from a list of the best beach reads for 2025 and a guide to Maine’s iconic lighthouses, to stories on where to eat lobster, how to eat lobster, and earnest pieces on camping, hiking and picnicking, that felt like they could only exist in a local newspaper.  

I also picked up a copy of The Salt Book, written in the 1970s by students at Kennebunk High School and edited by their teacher, Pamela Wood. It’s a collection of conversations between the students and older Mainers about life and traditions, with an introduction on preserving culture and craft that still feels timely today. It made me want to start talking to my friends’ hardy New Englander grandparents about weaving snowshoes or foraging sea moss. 

The playlist on repeat…  This one, which feels like stepping out of the shower after a day at the beach. 

What I packed… This dress from Xirena, which might technically be a cover up, but I wore it to dinner on a cooler night. It was starting to feel like fall already, so white jeans and an old cashmere sweater were in heavy rotation as well. I packed everything in my Kule tote, which felt right at home in (and a cut above) the sea of LL Bean totes.

A thing or two I learned…  Deer Isle and the Blue Hill peninsula have the highest concentration of artists and galleries in Maine, thanks in part to the Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, which attracts makers from all over the world, many of whom end up staying. Driving around the island, you’ll find people and studios doing fascinating work, like Tim Whitten’s marlinespike ropework, Devta Doolan’s island-inspired jewelry, and Owl Furniture’s Scandi-style hardwood pieces. I also learned that you can see eight lighthouses along the Deer Isle Lighthouse Trail, and that impassioned members of the US Lighthouse Society come here to get their lighthouse passports stamped.  

And more practically, I learned that a lot of businesses close on the weekends, even in summer! If there’s a store or restaurant you really want to go to, check the hours and reach out to confirm they’ll actually be open. Or maybe just plan to come during the week!

The best thing I’m bringing home…  Ceramics from Hog Bay Pottery. Artist Charlie Grosjean opened this studio next to his house over 50 years ago, and it’s always open for visitors, even if he’s off kayaking or playing with his grandkids. There’s an honor box for cash and a clipboard to record your purchases if he’s not around, but luckily he was there when we stopped by and took time to chat. Charlie told us that he’s never once been “taken advantage of” and that keeping the doors open is exactly what’s allowed him to stay open all these years. I love the pottery itself, but even more the reminder that places like this can still exist. 

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Hello from… Minocqua, in the North Woods of Wisconsin—a low-key lake community where families return year after year. They love their small town charm, but have had big names as fans and visitors over the years, including Elizabeth Taylor.

Where I’m staying… We spend a week every summer at a family cabin on a lake outside Minocqua, but I’ve heard The Beacons of Minocqua is a great lakefront option right in town (they offer everything from hotel rooms to log cabins that sleep up to 14).

The best meal I had… Probably the cheese plate made by my friend Anna Covington with goodies from The Cheese Board. Don’t skip on the 19-year aged cheddar, and you also have to try the cheddar with horseradish spread. I also had a great lunch at Otto’s Beer Garden, but heard the real time to go there is on Thursday nights for live music and dancing (rumor has it they even have to secure the tables down beforehand), so I’ll be back for that next time. 

Most fun thing I did… My favorite thing to do each year is having a picnic by the lake, spending all day swimming, paddleboarding, canoeing and grilling (pick up food from the Friday morning farmer’s market, which is small but a must, according to my local friend Carolyn Goltra). My other must-do is going to see the Min-Aqua Bats Water Ski Show. Words cannot express how much joy I get from this. They hold shows all summer on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 7pm. 

The song on repeat… “Fishing in the Dark” by Nitty Gritty Dirt Band

A thing or two I learned… How to square dance/line dance! I’m getting pretty good after my 12th season here. I also learned a few things about lake culture: going out for a pontoon ride at night and meeting up with friends to hook the boats together for a nightcap (and maybe a swim). I also learned how to wakesurf and waterski (poorly).

The best thing I’m bringing home… It’s a toss up between fudge/candy from the extremely picturesque Dan’s Minocqua Fudge—an old-fashioned candy store where they still spin their own fudge (get an ice cream while you’re there too)—and vintage finds from Gaslight Antiques and Collectables, an expansive antiques market on the upper level of the Gaslight Square Shops. 

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Hello from… Chania, Crete. The southernmost and largest of the Greek islands, Crete is as mountainous as it is mythic—Zeus himself was said to be born in a high cave here—and its rugged elevation and sinuous roads have always made it difficult to penetrate. Crete has been dogged by a reputation for overdevelopment, but that’s largely an affliction in the north-central area of Heraklion, the capital (also home to the must-see archeological remains of Knossos Palace, the seat of Minoan kings). Chania on the western side is urban but richly layered: an Old Town with a postcard-perfect Venetian port, Ottoman domes and neoclassical mansions, and flower-draped Cretan houses strung along narrow lanes. Both beautiful and bustling, a little rough-edged but soulful, it’s also home to a flourishing new wave of ateliers, food ventures, and entrepreneurs reinterpreting Cretan traditions.

Where I’m staying… The JW Marriott Crete Resort & Spa. This was my third visit—we have dear friends in Chania—and on other occasions I’ve loved the sweet agriturismo Metohi Kindelis, the design-forward and joyfully kid-filled Ammos, and the elegant Casa Delfino in an Old Town Venetian mansion. This time, wanting both proximity to our friends in the city and a true beach holiday (our teenage daughter was with us), we tried out the new JW, about 25 minutes out along the Akrotiri Peninsula, on Marathi Beach. I’m not usually a resort person, but the property was a relaxing escape: all earth-toned minimalism with a sultry edge, and three pools and cabanas right on the water. It wound up striking just the right balance. (You can read my full Guest Book here.)

The best meal(s) I had… We always make a beeline for souvlaki at a hole-in-the-wall called Oasis. (Thraka, though part of a chain, is so good too!) And we love to join our friends for a traditional wood-fired meal at Christostomos, which typically includes some combination of dakos (barley rusks topped with ripe tomato), horta (seasonal wild greens), braised rabbit or lamb slow-cooked in the wood oven with just olive oil and herbs, sfakiani pita drizzled with honey, and of course, shots of raki. Another favorite is Maiami, a lively and colorful bistro on the water owned by Greek-American ceramicist Alexandra Manousakis and her sommelier husband Afshin Molavi, known for seasonal shared plates and low-intervention wines from her family’s beautiful vineyards in Vatolakkos (well worth a visit for a tour and tasting!). This trip also brought new discoveries: Red Jane Bakery, by Nikos Tsepetis of Ammos, turning out artisanally made breads in a modern space; and the JW’s own Onalos, a seafood restaurant open to the public, where our sea bass crudo and grouper with spinach-rice were super fresh and flavorful. A final favorite: Patrelantonis Fish Taverna, on Marathi Beach, a humble-looking place beloved by locals (and supposedly even the president).

A few fun things I did…  Wandering the maze of Old Town’s alleys and Venetian harbor is always a pleasure, especially with its ever-improving lineup of boutiques: Katerina Makriyianni for beautiful gold necklaces and earrings; Just Brazil for Greek designers like Ancient Kallos and Zeus + Dione; and countless linen, ceramics, jewelry and soap/oils shops tucked into side streets. For an icy frappe or Greek coffee (or aperitivo at sunset), the Chania Sailing Club is a must. As a history nerd, I enjoyed my deep-dive at the Archeological Museum of Chania, which opened in 2020 with an extraordinary collection of Minoan pottery, figurines, and jewelry that trace Crete’s long history, and visit to the 17th-century Agia Triada Monastery on the Akrotiri Peninsula, whose monks produce and sell olive oil. On the more adventurous side, the 10-mile Samaria Gorge hike is unforgettable and so worth it—though accompanied by a good number of tourists and large Greek families ambling down the trail, you can still find yourself alone in the deep canyon, which finishes at the black-pebbled Libyan Sea, where you’ll want to plunge into the cool blue water—heaven. (You can book transportation through most hotels, or at various kiosks in town.) This year we opted for a boat trip, hiring a skiff and skipper at Marathi Beach through Notos Mare to explore nearby coves, including Seitan Limani’s dramatic cliffs and Glass Beach—which, true to its name, is glittering with millions of pieces of worn sea glass.

The book I read… Crete by Barry Unsworth, a lyrical travelogue that makes sense of the island’s complexity, weaving mythology (the Minotaur and the labyrinth, which allegedly occurred at Knossos Palace), history, and the Cretans’ fiercely rebellious spirit through centuries of foreign invaders.

A thing or two I learned… The Minoans (c. 3000-1450 BC) were Europe’s first advanced civilization, who built multi-story architecture and complex plumbing networks, used sophisticated painting and ceramic techniques, and sailed to Egypt, Turkey, and, some say, as far as India!

Manousos Chalkiadakis’ studio, Just Brazil

The best thing I’m bringing home… A ceramic pomegranate by Manousos Chalkiadakis, a revered Cretan artist whose amazing home-studio in the mountains near Chania is filled with his paintings, ceramics, and antiques. (To arrange a visit email info@greekceramics.gr or call/text +306947270355.) My daughter commissioned a striking long-chain necklace made of semi-precious stones at the atelier at Antoniou, and I picked up a knotted straw bag at Just Brazil, which folded up easily in my carry-on!

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Hello from… Salina, one of the Aeolian Islands—a low-key chain off the north coast of Sicily, with a remote appeal and less name recognition than nearby Taormina or Capri. Relaxed even by Aeolian standards, Salina is the quietest of the bunch. I decided to come for four days with my two young sons, ages 4 and 15 months, because I’d heard that the island has a sleepy charm that’s a welcome departure from the see-and-be-seen vibe of more touristed holiday havens. Beloved by Sicilians and Neapolitans for its viticulture, lush landscapes, and relaxed atmosphere, it’s a place to linger over a glass of Malvasia, walk along the pebbled shore, eat long lunches, and, if you’re feeling slightly adventurous, hike an extinct volcano.

Where I’m staying… Hotel Signum, a seasonal property that’s hidden on a side street in the tiny village of Malfa. Started by Clara Rametta and Michele Caruso and now run by a second generation of family, the 30-key hotel channels Aeolian farmhouses with cacti and stone stairs. The fragrant gardens are full of lemon trees, jasmine and herbs, while the pool is ringed by sun beds and a gazebo. Because of the defining lack of urgency, no one is staking a claim at 6 a.m., so you can always find a place to post up after a dip. There are quiet corners to unwind inside as well, including a seldom-visited library. 

Tucked inside the main house and various other traditional cottages, each of the 30 rooms is decorated in a typical Aeolian style with tiled floors, wrought iron beds, and antiques, and scented with bergamot oil diffusers. 

At a time when so many spas are going high tech, a return to analog wellness feels downright dreamy. I had an amazing massage with olive oil. (Next time, I want to try the almond milk bath, which takes place in a copper tub from the 1800s.) The relaxation area is a sunny deck with spring-fed sunken baths, comfy seating, and housemade herbal tea. 

The best meal I had… was at Signum Restaurant, the hotel’s Michelin-starred option, helmed by chef Martina Caruso. The tasting menu honors Salina’s agricultural heritage and isn’t fussy or overcomplicated—think tuna tartare, fresh-baked bread, garden vegetable soup, and rigatoni with bottarga. The kitchen made wheel-shaped pasta with tomato sauce for the kids, which was so thoughtful. Before dinner, we enjoyed an aperitivo on the sea-view terrace. I ordered Salina Bianco, and my husband had a cocktail made with muddled herbs from the garden. We nibbled olives and almonds and waited in anticipation to see if Stromboli would put on a volcanic show (it regularly erupts in the evenings).  

I also often think about lunch at Pinnata del Monsú, on a covered patio overlooking rolling vineyards outside of Malfa. The daily special was a homemade fish ravioli with broth. There was a nice breeze. The owner bought toys for the boys to play with. I sipped my wine in peace. It simply doesn’t get better than that! 

If you’re catching the ferry from Santa Marina Salina, Da Alfredo is a great spot to sit outside and have a refreshing lemon granita. For a meal near the port, head to Nni Lausta, order one of the fresh catches, and save room for a cannolo Siciliano for dessert.  

Most fun thing I did… If you ask me—and Sicilians who love Salina—this is a destination that embodies dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing). Much of our trip was spent sunning by the pool, sipping Salina Bianco on the terrace bars (Bar Ravesi is particularly enchanting at sunset), strolling around the tiny town of Malfa, and venturing down to Spiaggia dello Scario, where the water crashes into the rocky shores. If you don’t mind a slightly more precarious entry, Spiaggia di Pollara is known for its craggy cliffs and crystal water. 

Since we had our two little travelers in tow, I won’t say it precluded adventure, but it did make me opt out of cruising the winding roads on two wheels. I chatted with a lovely French couple without the same kid constraints who raved about zipping around curves and finding a quiet, empty spot to watch the sunset. 

The book I read (and would recommend)… The boys, who never managed to nap at the same time and nearly outlasted me most evenings, left little time for reading. But I did pack and make it through the first few pages of The Leopard by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, which is about the decline of the Sicilian aristocracy during the period of Italian unification. 

The playlist on repeat… Salina calls for mellow music, played at a low volume. I found Mediterranean Nights on Spotify—it’s all instrumental, guitar-forward. The melodies are relaxing. Without vocals, it just fades perfectly into the background.

A thing or two I learned… Monte Fossa delle Felci, which rises 3,156 feet above the middle of Salina, is the highest point in the Aeolian archipelago. It’s a popular place for hiking and soaking in the views. 

The best thing I’m bringing home… A linen button-up shirt with colorful fish printed on it for my older son, Miles. It was hanging outside a small store along the main road in Malfa. The owner offered to get a fresh one from the back, but I insisted on this one because the sun-faded colors are so pretty. A few doors down, La Boutique Flora, a family-run business, stocks colorful handcrafted ceramics made by local artisans. The owner’s son, Emanuele Donato, and his wife, Caterina, have a pottery shop, La Bottega di Sophie, in nearby Santa Marina Salina.

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Hello from… St. Barth which, despite being in the heart of the Caribbean—between St. Martin, St. Kitts/Nevis, and Barbuda—could easily be mistaken for the Côte d’Azur. I love to visit in summer—which, it must be said, is not the most popular time to go. Hurricane season starts in June, when heat and humidity can be excessive, and some places can be closed or have limited hours. St. Barth in peak season (December-April) is always high-priced and high-occupancy, with lots of traffic and tough-to-get reservations. But in July and August, when much of Europe takes their vacations, it can feel very special: quiet and extra-French, as families from Paris escape to the island for their time off. I’ve been coming here for several years, always in summer, and I find it’s an important mid-year break to reset before heading into the second half of the year. 

Where I’m staying… GypSea Hotel (aka Villa Marie St. Barths) has been my home away from home every year I’ve come. Over the years, the hotel has evolved: in addition to the bungalows and villas on Colombier Hill (overlooking the island), they have opened four beach houses right on St. Jean Bay—next to their beach club, which guests have access to. The view from the bungalows is the perfect place to start the day before heading down to the hotel’s pool area for breakfast of coffee, pastries, and other dishes. The plantation-style architecture is punctuated with well-curated design elements throughout the open-air reception, restaurant, lobby area and guest rooms. During the day, you can explore the island, or just head to the lounge chairs at the beach club, before returning to the pool at the main hotel for a pre-dinner cocktail and cigar. 

The best meal I had… is not an easy call! I mentioned St. Barth feeling very French, and this shows up brilliantly in the food and wine selections. While the menu is not exclusively French at Shellona, I would recommend this for a wonderful lunch overlooking the perfectly turquoise waters at Shell Beach. For a starter, try the phyllo-wrapped feta (covered with honey and sesame seeds), and for lunch, the Caribbean lobster pasta—a giant platter of pasta coated in tomato sauce (with lots of butter, I presume) and covered in grilled lobster. It’s become a ritual in and of itself every trip. For something more French for dinner, I would endorse Le Papillion Ivre (which translates to “The Drunken Butterfly”) for small plates and a wine selection that feels like you are rifling through a sommelier’s personal journal. They serve classic dishes like beef tartare, onion soup, and foie gras—but don’t miss some of their other interesting options, like the mini-raviolis in parmesan crème (we had two orders) and tiny finger sandwiches of comté cheese and truffle. The service here feels especially personal as well, more so than anywhere else I can think of on the island. 

Most fun thing I did… While small, St. Barth does require a car. Each year, I rent a Land Rover Defender to cruise the island, and while not extremely practical, it is great for driving the many hills and visiting the beaches all over the island, many of which are remote with no services. Have breakfast, hop in the truck and drive out to Saline Beach. It tends to be windswept and requires a bit of a hike over a sand dune, but when you arrive, you’re rewarded with an expansive stretch of sand and strong waves. (You may also encounter some au naturel bathers.) On the way back to the other side of the island, stop by the roundabout on the hill above the airport to watch some of the planes land… right above your head. It’s a blast to see the harrowing approach and landing from outside the plane. 

The book I read… In past years, I have taken vintage copies of James Bond books to lay on the beach while sipping on rum cocktails, especially the ones that take place in the Caribbean, like Dr. No and Thunderball. This year, I brought a collection of short stories from Guy de Maupassant, a wonderful read between ocean swims. If you visit the GypSea, you might find my copy of the book…I left it on the bookshelf in the library attached to the lounge. 

The playlist on repeat… The music on the island is also quite good and very eclectic, between the boutique hotels, tiny restaurants, and the clubby-atmosphere of some of the beach clubs. I’ve made a few playlists over the years, but this original one is the most popular and one I go back to every year (actually, I start listening on the flight there to get in the mood). 

A thing or two I learned… St. Barths is a small island, and if you go a few times it’s possible you may make a few friends like we have. You will learn a little bit about the inner workings of the island (if you care to)… which restaurants are coming and going, new development projects scheduled to start, changes to some of the hotels, etc. All of which only serves to make you feel more connected, invested in the island, and ready for your next trip. 

The best thing I’m bringing home… St. Barths has no sales tax or VAT and some great high-end boutiques, so if you are on the hunt for watches, jewelry, or something special, you’ll be in luck. This year, though, I’m just bringing home a candle with the signature scent of the hotel. My wife and I will light it every Friday while we mix martinis and talk about our next trip back to St. Barth… in the low season, of course.

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Hello from… Ærø, a remote Danish island in the South Funen archipelago—around three hours from Copenhagen (by train and ferry). Only accessible by water (unless you have a private plane), the island’s cabin-dotted dunes, quaint fishing villages, and wildlife-filled beach meadows are still relatively undiscovered. Most visitors make port in Ærøskøbing, a beautifully preserved marina town lined with cobblestone streets of timber-framed houses with brightly painted doorways, some of which are over 750 years old. Locals mostly get about by boat and bicycle, with well-marked coastal trails criss-crossing from one tip of the island to the other—covering dramatic cliffs at nature reserve Voderup Klint, and sprawling farmland with roadside stalls selling orchard-grown goods.

Where I’m staying… Hotel The Monica, the three-bedroom boutique guesthouse of former Danish model Monica Conradsen. Geismar’s bed linens line-dry in the garden, the scent of home-baked coconut macaroons lingers in the open kitchen, and Frama bath oils keep long soaks in Room Three’s green, freestanding tub extra bubbly. Monica decorated the entire house herself, filling the library with her favourite magazines, collaborating with Danish textile designer Helene Blanche on bespoke wallpaper throughout, and even sketched the designs for her kitchen cabinetry which now hold countless cookbooks, time-honored recipes, and especially made dinnerware by Danish ceramicist Hanne Bertelsen (who is also stocked in Copenhagen’s Louisiana Design shop). Every little detail has been meticulously thought of, and yet it’s all very lived-in and laid-back. 

The best meal (or two) I had… Monica cooked every meal for us over the long weekend, using herbs from her garden and the finest cuts of meat from the local butcher. Her signature lamb and potatoes were served on a big, sharing-style plate with heaps of seasonal vegetables, followed by a velvet-smooth Valrhona chocolate cake. I also discovered the life-altering combination of marmalade on toast topped with an artisan disc of Peter Beier dark chocolate at breakfast (Monica kindly sent me home with a tin so that I could continue my chocolate-orange obsession). 

The most fun thing I did… Each morning began with a cold plunge in the Baltic Sea. There are lots of wild swimming spots around Ærø, including Kleven Havn along the coast (with its wood-fired sauna to warm up in) and Vesterstrand’s sandy shoreline, backed by colourful beach houses which have stood, exactly as they are, for over 100 years. There are baskets of waffle-knit towels, hand-embroidered sun hats, and striped robes by aiayu in each of The Monica’s rooms to keep swimmers feeling stylish and snuggly. We walked back with wet hair and salty skin and ate breakfast in our bathing suits.

The book I read… We, The Drowned by Carsten Jensen charts the seafaring story of Marstal, Ærø’s main shipping port, and four generations of its sailors who fight—and eventually defeat—the Germans by the end of WWII. You’ll feel as though you’ve vicariously sailed around the world, and yet remained anchored on Ærø all the while.

The playlist on repeat… This was very much an unplugged break, so I simply soaked up the sounds of the waves, bicycle bells clanging on cobbled streets, and distantly honking wild geese flying overhead.

What I packed… Having perused The Monica’s shop online, I knew there’d be plenty of knitwear from Guðrun & Guðrun, hand-loomed Rejkjær coats, and APOF blouses to layer if I’d packed too lightly. Not the most glamorous, but some water shoes will also come in handy for those Nordic dips.

A thing or two I learned… While visiting Hammerich’s Hus, the higgledy-piggledy holiday home of Danish sculptor Gunnar Hammerich, known locally as the Red House (just a few doors down from The Monica), we spotted rows upon rows of ceramic mugs hanging from the low ceilings. These individually designed vessels were made for each of Hammerich’s overnight guests, so that each of his creative friends (the house became a popular gathering place for painters and poets) might return for a drink.

The best thing I’m bringing home… I can’t wait to hang my Hotel The Monica bauble on my tree this Christmas. I’ve been collecting festive decorations on my travels for years, and this hand-painted addition carries lots of cosy memories from my time on the island (which also hosts the most magical winter market each December).

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Where I’m staying… The Cavendish Hotel at Baslow, an incredibly charming hotel on the grounds of the Chatsworth Estate. The building has stood on the estate since the 1830s, but was reimagined as a hotel in 1970. It recently underwent an incredibly cute refresh, and you can read all about it in my Guest Book here! The estate is widely believed to have inspired Jane Austen’s description of Pemberley, Mr. Darcy’s home in Pride and Prejudice, and was in fact used as a location in the 2005 film adaptation of the book. 

The best meal I had… On the first night at The Cavendish, I ate at their fine-dining restaurant, The Gallery. I am normally not one for a set menu (or fine dining, for that matter), but this changed the game! It was beautifully presented and portioned with 5 courses and no obnoxious foam or theatrics. Most of the game and produce were sourced from the estate itself, from the homemade sourdough with herb butter made from Chatsworth’s garden, to the melt-in-your mouth beef filet with Alsatian onion. Pro tip: if the weather is good when you visit, make sure to get an ice cream before walking around the gardens—the Cherry Bakewell flavor was my favorite (the dessert itself originated nearby in the town of Bakewell).  

Most fun thing I did… While it may seem obvious, I’d say visiting Chatsworth House. The Cavendish is so well located that you can walk on a small footpath just in front of the property, and within 5 minutes you will find yourself on the vast and extensive Estate. The grounds are incredibly well kept and extend as far as the eye can see—the Estate is over 35,000 acres!—and it’s only about a 30-minute walk to the entrance of the house. Whether you’re an art history buff or a Pride and Prejudice fan, Chatsworth House is an incredible experience. Inside, you’ll find everything from centuries-old tapestries to an extensive sculpture court, royal portraits, and a library that looks straight out of a period film. The gardens, designed in part by Capability Brown and renowned and knighted gardener of the estate, Joseph Paxton, are equally grand, with maze-like hedges and rose walks. Everyone working here is filled with pride and excitement. I would recommend getting a ticket to both the house and the garden—you can spend all day wandering (it really is on the scale of Versailles), and there are lots of charming restaurants, incredible ice cream, and a great gift shop! I also explored Baslow, where I found the sweetest pottery shop filled with ceramics from local artisans, who all fire their objects in the kiln behind the studio. The glazes are all mixed by the owner himself, and you can get some lovely things for very modest prices. Also in Baslow was Simply Pale, a lovely clothing and homewear store with a great selection including Savon de Marseilles, beautiful linens, dresses from India, and thoughtfully curated antiques. 

The book I read (and would recommend)… The book to read here is obviously Pride and Prejudice, or honestly any Jane Austen classic. Since my trip was short, I watched the 2005 film adaptation instead. There is something transportive about watching that movie while sitting in a bed that was original to the house it was set in. And if, like me, you don’t have a car, you can relate to Elizabeth trekking across the vast fields of the English countryside to get around. 

A thing or two I learned… It is safe to say that before my trip, I was fairly clueless about all things Chatsworth, not to mention English lordships and aristocracies. But while here, I became very interested in the history of the Estate’s most influential gardener, Sir Joseph Paxton. He was introduced to the 6th Duke of Devonshire in 1826 and appointed Head Gardener. His work around the Estate lives on to this day, including the impressive rock garden and Emperor Fountain. I also learned that he played a role in the cultivation of the banana in the UK and subsequently the Western world, and that every banana is most likely descended from the specimen harvested at Chatsworth, aka the Cavendish Banana. His obsession reportedly started after seeing a banana on one of the house’s bedroom wallpapers, which led him to bring back a sample from Mauritius and to later cultivate it here on the property. For centuries this story was thought to be a myth, as the banana-ed wallpaper was never found, but it was proven true when a bed was moved in the 1920s to reveal the illustration. Who would’ve thought?!

The best thing I’m bringing home… At the estate shop, I picked up some of their incredible shampoo and conditioner, which I fell in love with at The Cavendish—it’s produced on the estate using their own botanicals. From Baslow Pottery I’m bringing home a spouted bowl, perfect for preparing my morning matcha in, and some lovely linen dresses from Simply Pale.

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Hello from… Sifnos, Cyclades, Greece. It is no coincidence that this island’s capital, Apollonia, inherited its name from Apollo, the Ancient Greek God of light, as it’s the light here that gets me every time. As the co-founder of The Cycladist, a boutique travel design agency focused on the Greek islands, I first visited Sifnos fifteen years ago and immediately felt I’d landed in a place of intangible magic. The same thing happens every time the ferry pulls into Kamares. The minute the colors, the whitewashed houses, village hills and long stretch of sandy beach come into view, it’s as if a weight lifts from my shoulders and a sense of freedom and calm happiness that is quintessentially Cycladic descends. 

A long-time secret favorite of both the more discerning Greek traveler and the French, Sifnos has become better known in recent years for its simple, elegant, “off-the-track” charm. It’s an island that speaks to beauty everywhere you look: from the Chrisopigi monastery surrounded by crystal blue waters, to the incredible colors of Kastro village at dusk, to the charming narrow alleys of Apollonia and Artemonas. Situated in the western Cyclades, Sifnos is a soft, easy exhale compared to buzzier islands like Mykonos, Santorini or even Paros. Here, time stands still, beauty reigns supreme, and the light—the glorious light—enfolds all of it in a one-of-a-kind glow.

Where I am staying… The Verina Astra, arguably our favorite hotel in the whole of the Cyclades. It’s a 16-room boutique hotel hanging off the Poulati cliffs that elegantly marries boho chic with simple Greek luxury. Perhaps the only thing rivaling its views—a sea of blue as far as you could stretch it—is Bostani, its world-class Mediterranean restaurant. Standout dishes include the revithada (chickpeas) with fresh crayfish (the essence of the Cyclades in a bite!), topped off with a superb distillate recommended by Yiannis, sommelier and old friend, called Mouhtaro Lost Lake, made from a rare red grape variety of the Musses Valley.

The best meal I had… is hard to pick! Sifnos’ “foodie” reputation is no random fact. Sifnos is the birthplace of Nikolaos Tselementes, a famous chef credited with modernizing Greek cuisine. In 1910, he wrote the first Greek cookbook that blended French cooking principles with Greek cuisine, and every self-respecting yiayia (grandmother) who considers herself a good cook owns one of these! These deep culinary roots and reputation explains why Sifnos’ restaurateurs and chefs keep innovating while, at the same time, respecting the island’s more traditional recipes such as revithokeftedes (fried chickpea meatballs) and mastelo (braised lamb with wine and dill).

A highlight meal was at a tiny fish bar called Omega 3 on Platis Gialos beach. It’s a Sifnos institution that has stayed true to its original charm, superb quality and the freshest local fish you can find. Kicking back in the laid-back space to tunes streaming from owner Vassili’s JBL, small plates arrive with perfect timing and, as always, to be shared. It’s hard to single out a favorite dish, but the slipper lobster carpaccio and amberjack tiradito may have to take the crown. Typically, I like to get there at 6pm and stay until the sun sets.…

If you’re up for something more experimental, try Giorgos Samoilis’ Cantina, perched atop a small beach called Seralia. The setting is mesmerizing, as is the set menu Giorgos has prepared that takes you on a unique gastronomic journey that shares the best of what the Greek land and sea have to offer.

On the more traditional side, you can’t go wrong with the family-run Taverna Chrisopigi, which you’ll find in a quiet bay at Apokofto beach. With your feet in the sand, enjoy simple authentic Greek dishes and local tsipouro, with an exquisite view of the monastery.

If I had to suggest one must-visit off-island location… it would be the untouched island of Polyaigos, home only to the goats after which it’s named. Just 40 minutes south of Sifnos, nestled between Milos and Kimolos, this Aegean oasis is the largest uninhabited island in the Cyclades and is known for its striking white vertical rocks, turquoise waters, unspoilt beaches and ancient tranquility. We hired our own private rib boat from A-La-Mer and Captain Yiannis, an islander who’s been sailing the archipelago since he was a small boy, took us to crystal-clear coves for dreamy swims and a truly sensational day at sea.

On the island, I always make time for a day or afternoon trip to the small fishing village of Cheronissos. Everything there—from the tavernas to the lack of signal to the simple, warm hospitality of the people—makes you feel like you are in a different time. 

A thing or two I learned… As a visitor to Sifnos for many years, I knew the island has the largest number of churches and chapels in the Cyclades (over 250!) but I didn’t know the reason until my trip here this summer. For most of the previous century, many sailors working on Greek commercial ships came from Sifnos. According to tradition, families would build chapels and dedicate them to the Saint after which their son was named. There was a strong belief that this would ensure a sailor’s safe return!

The most fun thing I did… A hike up to Agios Simeon from Kamares beach. If you’re adventurous and up for a challenge, this 1.5-hour trail is a great way to experience the natural beauty of Sifnos, all while threading through rocky terrain and enjoying amazing sea views along the way. It gets a bit steep towards the top, but the view is infinitely worth it! When you finally reach the church of Agios Simeon, with panoramic views of surrounding Cycladic islands, it’s a feeling you won’t forget.

For something a little more leisurely, there’s a path connecting Glyfo and Apokofto beaches, which is an incredibly scenic trail that you can also take at night as the path is lit, by lamps or moonlight.

The best thing I’m bringing home… The island’s history in the form of handcrafted, hand-painted ceramics from the Lembesis family, who have been preserving this ancient craft for generations in their workshop, found between the villages of Apollonia and Artemonas. The Lembesis tradition is a relic of a time when the entire island was engaged in the ceramics trade, and is one that has been handed down from grandmother Katerina to her grandson, Nikos Lembesis.

I also never leave the island without the two ingredients needed to replicate the Sifnian version of a Greek salad: xynomizithra, a local soft cheese found only in the Cyclades (used in place of feta), and caper leaves (traditionally gathered in the spring). I’ll also use the capers to make kaparosalata (caper salad), a warm local salad. My go-to store for these delicacies is Gerontopoulos in Apollonia, where it’s pretty much impossible to resist stocking up on a few of the freshly-made sweets, too!

The playlist on repeat… Our The Cycladist playlist—a mix of feel-good tracks from various genres—captures the island’s vibe perfectly. Each song echoes moments here, from sunlit mornings to seaside dinners. Back home, these tunes will bring the island’s magic right back to me.

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Where I’m staying… I’ve landed here for the summer season, working remotely and leading retreats and cultural experiences, so my stay is a bit different this year. As a shorter-term visitor, I loved staying at Amorgos Pearls, right in the center of Katapola, but just far enough away from the bustle of the port area. You have your own small house with a large front yard and hammock, and the owner’s adorable donkey Dolly grazes in the land just next door. It doesn’t get more picture-perfect Greek summer than that. 

The best meal I had… For traditional, farm-to-table food without pretenses, it’s always T’ Apanemo in “Kato Meria,” a calmer, more agrarian side of the island. The xortopitakia (pies filled with greens) here are so delicious and somehow not greasy at all, and if you eat meat, this is as fresh as it gets. Bonus points for the sunflowers, vintage photos on the walls, and idyllic setting—their own sheep graze nearby. I also love Fata Morgana in Katapola for Greek food with a creative, but not overdone, twist. Try the sea bass served with tarama (fish roe) and walnuts, and don’t skip dessert.

Most fun thing I did… This was happenstance, as is much of the magic in Greece, but when our retreat group turned one of our taverna dinners into a mini glendi, or party, it was simply the best. I’d just taught the crew traditional Greek dancing, and the owner of the establishment in Tholaria let us turn their taverna into our dance floor. It was like a personal panigyri (the feast days where there is live music and lots of dancing/revelry in Greece). Amorgos has heaps of culture, which can be hard to find on some more touristic Greek islands. Stay open to what can unfold here, and always follow the sound of the violins! The island has lots of live music in tavernas, at the Botanical Garden in Katapola, and of course, on said feast days. 

The book I read… Not to get too Greek, but I recently read and loved Scorpionfish by Natalie Bakopoulos. It’s fictional and based in modern-day Athens and the author’s home island. The story paints a realistic picture of the struggles that modern-day Greeks and migrants face, while also managing to capture the sensory magic of this country. I love how Bakopoulos held these many dualities, and especially loved her descriptions of one of the characters who was an artist. 

The playlist on repeat… I recently co-hosted a yoga and cultural retreat for my business Yia Mas, and one of my class playlists got a lot of love. I feel like you could throw this on for chores around the house, traveling, or lazing around the beach. I love crafting playlists and make one every month or so—they become time capsules to look back on (i.e. I love going back to “June 2022” and revisiting that headspace). For yoga classes, I really am not into “basic yoga music,” and you might hear Alice Coltrane, The Beatles, Mary Lattimore, or even Abba during one of my classes. The Abba is, of course, fun for a Greece retreat—and we’ll break out into some easy dance cardio to break up the seriousness of a yoga practice. 

A thing or two I learned… So much about the flora and fauna of the island. This is one reason I wish people were more open to visiting Greece in the off-season. Baking summer heat isn’t ideal for much other than languid beach days and seaside tavernas, but a visit here in the spring or early summer would be ideal for foraging and smelling many of Amorgos’ herbs. The island is chock-full of herbs, both wild and cultivated. The sage here is incredible. 

The best thing I’m bringing home… Now that Amorgos is my part-time home, things are a bit different But I always suggest bringing home some wild Amorgian sage (it grows everywhere on the island). Pick some yourself, or visit IAMA in Lagada for many delicious herbal remedies! And, of course, the local libation “psimeni raki,” or cooked raki. It’s sweet and will certainly warm your mind and body from the inside.

What I wish people knew… While they may play it up from time to time, Greek hospitality is not an act. You will always be offered something upon entering someone’s home. Coming from 10 years in NYC, where life is so expensive and transactional that a friend might Venmo you for a coffee, it’s a breath of fresh air to remember this generosity of spirit exists—often from the people who have the fewest material things and wealth. 

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Two hours from Montreal, this secluded, family-run hotel is an elegant way to get a summer lake-life fix, with Québecois flavor. Hello from… North Hatley, Québec, Canada. Nestled along the shores of the majestic Lake Massawippi in Southeastern Québec, French-speaking North Hatley is a tiny hamlet (just 680 year-round residents) with outsize charm. Set on the ancestral land of the Abenaki Nation, the village center wraps around Lake Massawippi, which dominates every vista and stands out in the Eastern Townships of Québec for its striking setting. While just a 90-minute drive from Montreal and only 30 minutes from the northernmost part of the US border, the town’s European trappings feel an ocean away.

Day trippers pull up dockside in pontoon boats for lunch at the waterside restaurant and tap room, Le Pilsen Pub. Alternatively, the excellent cafe, Massawippi Mercantile, is the favored stop for cyclists pit-stopping on the famed Route Verte—the longest network of cycling trails in North America that cuts through the center of town. Locals are more likely found stocking up at the quaint general store, Epicier J.L. LeBaron, which not only offers gourmet provisions, but a gallery-wall of historical photographs of the town and antiques dating to the shop’s founding in 1888.  

Where I’m staying… Manoir Hovey, an historic 52-room, lakefront hideaway with an Appalachian Mountain backdrop. The Manoir encompasses a top-notch restaurant, Le Hatley, a new spa with an indoor/outdoor thermal experience, and soul-lifting views of Lake Massawippi from the English garden and infinity-edged pool. Did I mention the cozy library with a crackling fireplace? And the well-stocked bolthole cocktail lounge? The meticulously maintained Manoir has been a labor of love for the Stafford family since 1979, and with a second generation at the helm, they’re set to open new Lakeside Pavilion suites at the end of August, each with coffered ceilings, balconies and fireplaces.  

The best meal I had… wasn’t at the aforementioned Le Hatley, in spite of its refined service and prodigious menu; rather, our lunch at the more casual on-property boite, Le Tap Room. We sat on the terrace overlooking the garden (and of course, the shimmering Lake Massawippi!) and shared crisp fries with housemade spicy mayo, salmon gravlax made with locally distilled Saint Laurent gin, and a Prince Edward Island beef burger with bacon and aged Coaticook cheddar. Note: this will also be my answer the next time someone asks me what my last meal would be.

Most fun thing I did… Getting up super early, seemingly before anyone else at the Manoir, to have morning coffee on the dock. It sounds simple, but what makes Hovey special is the opportunity to slip into tranquility at every turn. Watching the morning mist slowly lift across the lake with coffee in hand was a daily meditative ritual.

I also did a thrice daily thermal circuit—hit the sauna for 15 minutes, cold dunk for a minute or two, repeat, and repeat! The cedar-clad sauna is large enough for a group of friends or perfectly peaceful for one, and has windows overlooking (you guessed it) the lake. The cold dunk sits just through the doorway of the sauna, outside on a raised deck with (again) lake views. And don’t miss the, “Neiges Eternelles,” or  “Eternal Snow”—an elegantly tiled crushed ice dispenser in the vestibule of the sauna used for applying ice to your body to stimulate blood flow after a good steam session. I never want to use a sauna again without “Neiges Eternelles”…and it’s just fun to say.

The book I read (and would recommend)… Table for Two by Amor Towles. Diving into Towles’ colorful depiction of New York City (in six short stories) and the Golden Age of Hollywood (in one longer novella) made it feel like I was on vacation…while on vacation!  It was all very meta.

The playlist on repeat… A daily dose of Canada’s own Neil Young. I must have listened to the albums “On the Beach” and “Everybody Knows This Is Nowhere” at least three times each. I can’t think of a voice in rock and roll more representative of the power of contemplation in nature than Neil Young. These songs were meant to be heard by a lake, near the mountains, with birds flying by and bees buzzing amidst the flowers.  

A thing or two I learned… Québec French, also known as Québecois, is actually more similar to the language spoken by the French royals of the 17th and 18th centuries than that of Standard French, or as it’s referred to in Québec, “European French.”  Even to an untrained ear and a novice French speaker comme moi, there are noticeable rhythmic differences, and some variations in vocabulary between the two dialects. Originally settled as New France in the 16th century by French aristocrats, Québec has stayed true to the language first spoken by its founders, with roots back to the royal court, while the French spoken in modern-day France has been through many significant linguistic changes, particularly in the 18th century (vive la révolution!).  In fact, when renowned French philosopher Alexis de Tocqueville visited Canada in 1831, he famously remarked, “The French nation has been preserved there. As a result, one can observe the customs and the language spoken during Louis XIV’s reign.”  Qui savait?

The best thing I’m bringing home… A newfound appreciation for lake life. After just a short three-day stay along its gently lapping shores, it’s impossible to not fall in love with the ubiquitous Massawippi. 

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