I’ve always loved Zurich, even though I never get to spend enough time there. Between visiting our dear friends who live in Voralberg, Austria, or the Buchinger Wilhelmi clinic an hour and a half away on Lake Constance, we always try to bookend these trips with a couple of days in this beautiful Swiss city. It’s home to one of my absolute favorite restaurants in the world (also the favorite of all of our contributors), as well as a beloved perfume store, great shopping, and the most scenic lakeside runs. Somehow, it manages to feel equal parts old world and new, elegant and relaxed… qualities that our local friend, Frank Herrmann—who listed his go-tos here in our Black Book—summed up so beautifully that we had to share it with you here. He writes:

“Zurich has a reputation for being buttoned-up—the banks, the clean streets, the punctual trams gliding along Limmatquai. But the Zurich I fell in love with is softer, more eccentric, and sometimes even a little wild. It’s the smell of roasted chestnuts curling through Bahnhofstrasse in winter, and the first swim of the season in the lake when the water is still glacial, but you feel alive down to your bones. In summer, Zurich’s badi culture—the floating wooden baths that dot the river and lake—is absolutely unique: everyone sheds their serious faces and spends afternoons stretched out in the sun, diving in and climbing out, reading newspapers with wet hair. Here in Zurich, elegance lives next to eccentricity. A cocktail at the Kronenhalle, where the walls are lined with Chagall and Miró, is followed by a late-night sausage from a street stand and partying away at the famous Langstrasse. That contrast is the heartbeat of this city.”

I’m so thrilled to have this list from our favorite locals so I can go deeper—and stay longer—on our next visit. —Yolanda

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Adam Graham is an American journalist and travel writer based in Zurich. He writes for various publications including The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, and Condé Nast Traveler, reporting on travel, food, architecture and design. 

Andreas Leeman is a Zurich-based photographer and airline pilot, who finds inspiration both in his travels around the world and in the city he calls home, which he describes as “open to the world and like a small village, close to nature.”

Frank Herrmann is a Zurich- and Paris-based strategy consultant and one half of #f2ontour, who never travels without his pocket calendar, meticulously plotting a three-month rolling itinerary of architecture, art, history and food.

Leonard Wilhelmi is the Lake Constance-based CEO of Buchinger Wilhelmi, a fourth-generation family-owned fasting clinic with locations in Germany, Spain, and soon France. 

Marcela Palek is style director of Monocle’s Konfekt magazine. Born in Prague and raised in Zurich, she’s lived there ever since.

Marguita Kracht took the reins as the seventh generation to run Baur au Lac in 2022, alongside her father, Andrea Kracht, with whom she works to guide the hotel into its next chapter. Since 1844, the hotel has been in the hands of the Baur-Kracht family, who continue to run it with a keen sense of innovation and unique understanding of heritage. 

Mats Klingberg is the Swedish-born founder of Trunk Clothiers, a menswear brand and multi-brand retailer with a store on Chiltern Street in London and Dufourstrasse in Zurich. 

Ralph Schelling is a Zurich-based chef who has worked in Spain, England and Tokyo. The most recent winner of the Culinary Cup, his cookbook, Simple is Best, was just published by AT Verlag. When he’s not cooking, he takes culinary journeys between Asia, Europe and the USA, peeking into the pots of inspiring restaurant chefs.

The post Zurich Black Book appeared first on Yolo Journal.

The Cotswolds are, of course, synonymous with English country charm—the sheep-dotted rolling hills, the butterscotch-colored stone cottages and historic houses inhabited by the same families for centuries, the pubs where you can eat roast pork and crackling with a pint beside a roaring fire. But what we didn’t expect when we reached out to our friends and network who live there—many of whom uprooted themselves and their families from London after falling in love with the region—were their endorsements of the thriving creative energy and community that has formed around food, craft, hospitality and retail that more than equals the caught-in-time vibes. In short, old and new mix easily here—a “Designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty” spanning 800 sq. miles across six counties, mainly Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire. And summertime sounds especially magical: swimming in a freezing river at golden hour; village life humming with dog shows, pony clubs, and circus tents; estates opening their gates for garden tours; and villages bustling with farmers and antiques markets. 

Since it’s a region where the best discoveries are strictly word of mouth, we tapped several friends and contacts who live in different parts of the Cotswolds, and asked them to lean into their greatest interests. A big thank you to Team Cotswolds, below! 

Amanda Brooks is a writer, creative director, and the former fashion director of Barneys NY, who traded New York City for life on a farm in Oxfordshire with her husband and their two kids more than a decade ago. The author of books I Love Your Style, Always Pack a Party Dress, and Farm From Home, she also helmed the country lifestyle shop and brand Cutter Brooks from 2018 to 2025. She is currently plotting her next chapter. (Hear about it by signing up for her newsletter!)

Carole Bamford, the founder of Daylesford Organic, has been a champion of sustainable, mindful living for over 40 years, driven by her profound belief that we need to work in harmony with nature. As the founder of Daylesford Organic, she is recognised as a visionary in organic farming and food retail. What began as a collection of empty barns and fields has grown to become one of the UK’s most sustainable organic farms, and an extensive collection of pubs and cottages in the Cotswolds. 

Duncan Campbell is the co-founder of art and design atelier Campbell-Rey. Working fluently between residential and commercial interiors, furniture design and artistic projects, his work is a celebration of conviviality, colour, and exceptional craftsmanship. Luke Edward Hall is an artist, designer and columnist whose philosophy is shaped by his love of storytelling, nature and fantasy. He’s also the creative director of Chateau Orlando, a clothing and homewares brand, the author of three books, and a weekly columnist for FT Weekend. They began renting a cottage on the edge of an estate bordering Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire in 2019 after many years in London, having fallen in love with its views across fields and a valley.

Fiona Howden, is a committed steward of sustainable rural living and co-manager of Cornbury House Farm in Oxfordshire, where she and her husband, David Howden, have practiced regenerative agriculture since moving to the Cotswolds in 2017. Under her guidance, the estate has grown from a small kitchen garden into a thriving enterprise producing high-quality beef, lamb, pork, and vegetables—all rooted in biodiversity and soil health.

Lily Atherton Hanbury, the co-founder & creative director of Le Monde Béryl, is based in West Oxfordshire, where she creates some of our favorite shoes inspired by classic shapes, from gondolier slippers to riding boots. She says, “Fifteen years ago, when I was pregnant with my second child, Birdie, we rented a cottage in the Cotswolds through the Gifford family of Giffords Circus. What started as a temporary escape from London reminiscent of Withnail and I has become our life.”

James Priestley, the proprietor of William Crabtree & Sons, is the great-great-great-grandson of the original William Crabtree, who started his eponymous Yorkshire mill in 1835, and oversees the menswear and tailoring house, originally from its flagship in Marylebone. Seven years ago, he moved from London to a village near Burford in the Cotswolds, where he lives with his wife, two young sons and black labrador, and just opened a second store last month. 

Katharine Sohn, is a travel and lifestyle journalist who began her career at Condé Nast Traveller, where she honed her eye for detail and love of under-the-radar places. She now contributes to AD, British Vogue, House & Garden and Monocle, among others, while creatively collaborating with brands in the travel and design space. Once London-based, she now lives in a tiny village in the Cotswolds, in a charming stone cottage where tractors and combine harvesters often pass by her window.

Harry Llewellyn and his brother Edge are the proprietors of Stancombe Park, a private late-Georgian estate unchanged for 200+ years and famed for its lakes, tunnels, grotto and ice-house. Their grandparents bought the property—with 300 acres of rolling parkland and woodlands—and they have been restoring houses and barns on it to rent. We learned of it from our friend Gael Towey, who wrote about her stay, and noted that in addition to opening their own grounds (which include a Doric Temple that inspired “Brideshead Revisited”), the brothers organize guided tours to the very best of Cotswolds’ heritage and hidden gardens, rich in architectural variety and hosted by their owners. 

Tim Yates moved to Charlbury in the North Cotswolds from London in 2019 with his wife, Anstice, an art consultant, and their one-year-old daughter. Now a father of three (two daughters and a son), he commutes to London, where he is a buyer and retail director at Trunk Clothiers.

The post The Cotswolds Black Book appeared first on Yolo Journal.

It’s been nearly four years since we published our first Rome Black Book! Yes, we always make updates when we have them, but since I’ve been a resident here for three years (albeit part-time!) I wanted to rework it, given how much better I’ve come to know the city. Now that it’s full-on summer in the 90s every day and the streets are crowded with tourists, I’m very aware of how tough it can be out there—and I think I’ve figured out some great tools and secrets and other really helpful info to arm you with. Of course you want to know which restaurants to prioritize, but sometimes you also just need a recommendation near you. You might be across town from that restaurant you’d planned on for lunch, and now you’re desperate for something that is just close and good enough. 

I was telling my friend Stephen that my fantasy for Yolo is that it makes you feel the way you do when you’re somewhere unknown, trying to figure it out with no plan—and you see someone in front of you who has good style and looks clever. You find the courage to go up to them and ask them where you should go that’s nearby, and they kindly tell you their favorite place, making you feel like you’ve just hit the jackpot. That’s my personal goal with this Black Book. Usually, I pester all my friends and their friends who know a city super well to give me their intel, but this time I’m taking it all on, with the exception of our food/drinks category! I’ve done so many hotel walkthroughs, talked to so many people, and gone through my 9,468 photos of Rome from these last couple of years, and am sharing everything I’ve learned with you here. 

If you’re here in high summer, you may want to reference my Summer in Rome List (it includes easy beach-day trips from the city), and if you’re looking for ideas for everywhere else in Italy, don’t forget about our Italy Travel Planners—we have three!—for the North, Central, and South. —Yolanda

Most recent update Oct 2025

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There’s so much pressure to get it right and almost too much to navigate—the layered food culture, the legendary cocktail scene, not to mention the music bleeding out of every doorway, the raucous celebrations, the idiosyncratic neighborhoods. So we tapped a few local friends and insiders to guide us through the gauntlet—past the tourist traps and straight to the epic brunches and oyster joints, the jazz clubs and dive bars, antiques shops and art galleries, plus the Mardis Gras and Jazz Fest hacks they swear by in this city that’s always going off and never not interesting. 

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Brooks Reitz  is a Charleston based entrepreneur. He is the founder of Jack Rudy Cocktail Co., and the owner of  Leon’s Oyster Shop,  Melfi’s, and  Little Jack’s Tavern  in Charleston; and  The Bell, in New Orleans. He  publishes a weekly newsletter,  A Small and Simple Thing, about food, travel, style, and culture.

Emery Van Hook Sonnier is Deputy Director of Exhibitions and Advancement at Ogden Museum of Southern Art. A native New Orleanian, her career spans more than two decades in the for profit, nonprofit, media and philanthropy sectors, with a focus on building community through Southern culture, specifically Southern foodways.

Eric Goldberg is a traveler and dabbler in all things related to the business of hospitality. He has been the CEO of an international hotel services company, founder of a boutique branding agency and senior executive of a travel PR firm. He’s now a consultant and investor and has been to New Orleans at least a dozen times; he wrote about his most recent trip here. 

Katie Sciortino Peak is a writer, photographer & producer from the northshore of New Orleans. She spent two years living a block off Magazine Street in the Lower Garden District, and for the past nine years she and her husband have owned a home near City Park. Katie is temporarily located in the Netherlands after spending four years living in Tarragona, Spain. She shares her recs for hotels and local experiences in Spain and beyond on her site, The Unfolding Travels.

Katy Hoogerwerf  is a New Orleans-born and raised travel designer based in Europe with expertise in design, wellness, and culturally immersive experiences. As the founder of Good Trips, she seeks out unique properties with compelling stories and curates journeys that prioritize meaningful connections. 

Mason Hereford is the owner of four beloved New Orleans food operations: Turkey and the Wolf sandwich shop, Molly’s Rise and Shine, Hungry Eyes, an ‘80s-themed restaurant, and ​​Hot Stuff, a southern cafeteria style meat-and-3.

Michelle Faucheux is a native New Orleanian (and former Yam Queen!); a producer, writer, and passionate traveler who splits her time between New Orleans and LA. With a deep love for exploring new cultures and destinations, she founded The Curated Passenger, a travel company that offers tailored experiences with a focus on Africa, Egypt, Europe, and Antarctica. 

Nathalie Jordi  co-developed the  Hotel Peter & Paul  in a former Catholic school & church campus in New Orleans’ Marigny neighborhood, where she also lives. 

Nathaniel “Natty” Adams is a writer and designer living in New Orleans. He is the author of several books and his clothing store is located at 708 Toulouse Street in the French Quarter. 

Neal Bodenheimer, a New Orleans native, is the Managing Partner of CureCo., the group behind Cure, Cane & Table, and VALS in New Orleans; he also runs beverage operations at Peychaud’s at The Celestine.

Sara Ruffin Costello is a New Orleans-based designer of hotels (The Chloe, The Celestine, and the forthcoming Chloe Nashville) and residences; the founding Creative Director of Domino magazine, she also publishes a décor and life advice column, “You’re Welcome”, for The New Orleans Times Picayune. 

Carolina Costello is Sara’s daughter—a historic Preservation Major at College of Charleston, she is currently traveling through Europe on her semester abroad and gives us the Gen Z perspective on her hometown. 

Sophie Treppendahl is a Louisiana native who, after many years away, has been in New Orleans for four years. She is a painter, a new mom, and a delight seeker, who frequently partakes in outings for good food and drinks around the city with her family. 

Trishala Bhansali was born and raised in New Orleans and is the founder of Lekha, a lifestyle brand with its flagship on New Orleans’ Magazine Street. She splits her time between New Orleans, with her adorable shop-dog Wiley, and India, where she designs, sources, and curates all of Lekha’s items. 

Wayne Curtis is a freelance writer who has lived in New Orleans for nearly two decades. He’s the author of And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in 10 Cocktails, and covers the culture, history and science of cocktails and spirits for various publications and in his newsletter, The Long Bar. 

The post New Orleans Black Book appeared first on Yolo Journal.

Alexandra Winkler is the co-owner of Vienna’s iconic Hotel Sacher. Born and raised in the Austrian capital, she joined the family business in 2004 after working in the travel industry, to help lead the hotel alongside her husband and business partner, Matthias Winkler, and her brother, Georg Gürtler. A passionate advocate for Vienna’s vibrant cultural scene and rich history, Alexandra infuses art, culture and heritage into every aspect of the Sacher legacy.

Alexis Traina is the founder and CEO of HiNOTE, an app that combines the traditional world of personalized stationary with texting and everyday communication. The author of From Napa With Love, she splits her time between San Francisco and Napa Valley, and in 2018 moved with her family to Vienna for several years.  

Anne Limbach is a clinical pathologist who fell in love with Vienna’s rich culture, the warmth of its people, and the unforgettable food while studying medicine there. 

Andreas Keese is the General Manager of the Hotel Sacher, where he blends Viennese tradition with modern luxury to offer exceptional guest experiences. With a deep passion for food, drink, and uncovering Vienna’s hidden gems, he is dedicated to showcasing the city’s finest offerings. 

Eneuri Acosta is an entrepreneur and brand strategist working with culture-forward brands in the automotive, luxury and lifestyle spaces, and most recently was Chief Brand Officer at Hodinkee. He lives in NYC, but spent a couple of months in Vienna last year hanging with friends, eating schnitzel, going to museums and talking politics.

Kelsi Kennedy is a real estate investor and developer working in both Vienna and the ski village of Bad Gastein, Austria, with a focus on hospitality projects. In 2024, she opened Good Gastein, a retro-inspired pizza bar in Bad Gastein.

Julius Hirtzberger is a self-taught photographer focused on interiors, places and travel. His editorial work regularly appears in magazines such as Monocle, Vogue Living and FT. Currently he and his family call both Vienna and Como, Italy, home. 

Martins Pilens is a Vienna-based designer and champagne dealer. With a background in architecture, he combines his passions through @mywinedesign, a brand dedicated to creating contemporary furniture for wine lovers, bars, and cellars. He is also the force behind @bubblebistrot, importing grower champagne to Austria.

Matt Hranek is the author of  A Man & His Car,  A Man & His Watch,  A Man & His Kitchen,  The Negroni: A Love Affair with a Classic Cocktail,  The Martini: Perfection in a Glass, and founder of WM Brown Magazine. 

Nuriel Molcho is an Austrian entrepreneur, photographer, hat maker, and restaurateur based in Vienna. He is a key figure in the family-owned NENI restaurant group, with 13 locations across Europe. Born into an artistic family, Nuriel developed an early passion for art and design and the nomadic life, traveling the world with his wife and son.

Praline Le Moult and her husband, Harri Cherkoori, are authors and editors of clothes and home textiles for their Viennese store, INDIE, and pyjama brand, P. Le Moult 

Sciascia Gambaccini is a stylist, illustrator and writer, who lives between Milan, Monaco and Pantelleria, and visits friends in Vienna frequently. 

Thierry Morali  is a peripatetic French architect with a body of work spanning Fiji to NY, Moscow to Kitzbühel. Based in Vienna out of a passion for the Wiener Werkstatte, he’s launching a furniture line later this year. 

The post Vienna Black Book appeared first on Yolo Journal.

I can’t believe it’s been nearly three years since we published our first Paris Black Book. Back then, it was my personal list of favorites, plus those of a couple of other friends, and  it was really good. But I felt it was time for us to revisit the city and give it the same full-on approach we have evolved into over the last two years—polling all of our friends and creative contacts to tell us their favorite addresses. Our working Google doc came in at 105 pages, and the final version below is something I can’t wait for you to read. Our contributors range from architects to jewelers to chefs to designers to writers, and their ideas are so.damn.good. There are a lot of places I’d never heard of before, and so many that everyone agreed on (we love when that happens). A huge thank you to Team Paris! And for you subscribers, we could have made this much less of a lift, but you know us—as overachievers that isn’t our style, so think of this as our holiday gift to you! —Yolanda

IN THIS GUIDE

• Food & Drink (classic bistros and old-school brasserie, croissants worth crossing the city for, low-key lunch spots and OTT dinners, best wine/cocktail/hotel bars and where to go for late night) 
• Stays (charming neighborhood hotels, splurges for a special occasion, best for families and good-enough if you’re not in the room much anyway)
• Shopping (hidden vintage shops, the best French pharmacies and what to buy there, bookstores, flea markets, independent designers and everyone’s favorite department store)
• Neighborhood Guides (brief itineraries and best walking routes to connect it all)
• Family (parks with great snack spots nearby, how to spend a few hours with kids, and restaurants that are especially family friendly)
• Wellness & Beauty (running routes and workout classes, facials/massages/mani-pedis, everyone’s favorite salon, a 360-degree ‘check-up’ centre and trainers who will make house—or hotel—calls)
• Culture (under-the-radar museums and entry hacks for the very on-the-radar ones, touristy experiences that are worth it and untouristy experiences Parisians share with friends who visit, plus who to call for guided tours of museums, monuments and even flea markets)

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Alexandra Weinress is a gallery insider turned fixer in Paris. She founded The Seen to create art-based experiences across the city. (Read our Navigator with her here!) 

Alex Rash is the owner of the cult cocktail bar and restaurant Serpent A Plume and Cafe Du Canal. Originally from Minneapolis, Alex Rash has called Paris his home for the last 12 years, carefully navigating the picturesque that we miss so much in the Paris of our time.

Anne-Cécile and Kimberley Blanchot are sisters and co-founders of media relations and storytelling studio, August 28. Born in the US and raised in France Kimberley lives in Paris while Anne-Cécile is based in New York.   

Annie Waterman is the Paris-based founder of artisan-sourcing AOW Handmade, which links artisanal producers to global markets. She recently launched a  membership  for retailers, designers, and lovers of craft  and design looking to source unique, handmade artisan finds and brands from around the world; she also offers private artisan-sourcing tours in Lisbon and Paris. 

Caroline Morrison, a Franco-American entrepreneur and fashion industry veteran, opened Landline General Store in a dilapidated pharmacy in 2021 to give a platform for beautifully presented products that emphasize sustainability (and are all made in Europe!). 

Christine Bergstrom – Born in Sweden and raised in London, she’s lived for 25+ years in Paris, where she worked as a model for Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaia and Helmut Newton, among others. She runs Liwan in the 6^th, showcasing designs by Lina Audi and collections by Mediterranean artisans.

Christine Muhlke is a former magazine editor (Paper, T, Bon Appétit), a culinary consultant and the author of the xtine newsletter on Substack, who’s had a place in the 18th arr. for 20 years. You can access her Paris guide here! 

Clara Hranek is a student at the University of Edinburgh, who chronicles her affordable food finds at @clarashangry.

Clément Le Coz owns an experience agency called Le Coup de Foudre with a strong fashion and design DNA. He and his partner, Justina Socas, organize tailor-made trips in France and curated events in Paris. 

Diego Delgado-Elias is a Peruvian-born, Paris-based architect who established his eponymous studio in Paris in 2014. Following a debut collection developed with Peruvian artisans, a new series of furniture and objects will be launched in 2024.

Elizabeth Colling is the co-owner of Merci Montecito. She has been living in Paris with her French husband and their two daughters since last fall. 

Elliott Barnes has run his eponymous, award winning interior design firm since 2004 and has made the AD100 list several times in the years since. Passionate about art, he started The Barnes Contemporary, a private collection based on portraits of his family members, created by artists from the African diaspora. 

Franck Audoux is the founder of Cravan—located in a 1911 Guimard building in the 16th arrondissement—which shook up the Parisian cocktail scene when it opened in 2018. Last year, he opened Cravan across 4 floors in Saint Germain des Prés. He is also the author of French Modern Cocktail (Rizzoli). 

Frank Herrmann is a Zurich- and Paris-based strategy consultant and the other half of #f2ontour, who always has a little calendar with him outlining a three-month rolling itinerary with a focus on architecture, art, history and food.

Gabriel Vachette is the Paris-based co-founder of the independent watch company Serica, and the founder of Les Rhabilleurs, an online magazine devoted to watches.

Jeanne Signoles is the founder of L/Uniform, a line of beautiful and practical bags and travel accessories. She’s based in Paris and travels frequently, always with a caravan of gorgeous luggage in tow.

Josh Hickey is an American writer and literary curator who lives between Paris and Hydra, Greece, where he has founded a site-specific literary project, the Hydra Book Club, now entering its fifth year. He also publishes an annual journal of new writing, The Journal of the Hydra Book Club. 

Leonardo Pucci is a photographer and Dior Men’s Director of Leathergoods and Shoes.

Liana Engel is the Global Director of Talent & Entertainment for Cartier. Originally from Santa Fe, she is now based in Paris with her husband and kids. 

Linda Solanki and Jérémie Colin are the founders of Where Should I Go?, which shows travelers a different side of Paris. With custom recommendations packed into one-of-a-kind guides, travelers can explore the city like locals and find spots that fit their vibe.

Louise De Rothschild and Keagan Ramsamy founded the jewelry house Mazarin in 2022. The duo met at the auction house Pierre Bergé & Associés, and their contrasting cultures yet shared passion for gemology inspired them to create Mazarin, whose collections are made from recycled gold and laboratory-grown diamonds.

Maï de Colnet is a creative entrepreneur who founded Cherished Corner, a curation of objects for everyday life, two years ago. She has been living in Paris for almost 20 years. Now living in the countryside close to Paris, she still spends time each week in the city.

Maria Lemos is the founder of Rainbow Wave and the owner of our favorite concept shop in London and Athens, Mouki Mou. 

Mathieu Lebreton is the Parisian co-founder of GiftShop, a new destination to discover Parisian institutions and buy their unique souvenirs. He tries hard to stay fit while spending a big chunk of his life in restaurants.

Mimi Thorisson is a food writer and cookbook author, who moved to Turin with her husband and eight children after many years of living in France. 

Monica Mendal transitioned to travel writing, becoming a regular contributor to Vogue, T, and more after nearly a decade working as a fashion editor for magazines like Vogue, GQ and Glamour. Today, she lives in Paris and recently launched her own travel newsletter, So there’s this place… on Substack.

Nicolas Saltiel is the owner of Chapitre Six Hotels, a group of eight boutique hotels in Paris and the South of France: Monsieur Cadet, Maison Saintonge, Hôtel des Académies et des Arts, Monsieur George, Hôtel La Ponche, Hôtel Aristide, Cap d’Antibes Beach Hôtel and Hôtel Hana.

Pierre Maheo is the founder, CEO and creative force behind Officine Générale, which has been making that elusive, chic French style just a bit more attainable for Francophiles globally since 2012.

Rebekah Peppler is a Paris-based food, travel, and lifestyle writer and stylist for The New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, and more. Her latest cookbook, le SUD, was published in 2024. When she’s not working, you can find Rebekah cooking, eating, and drinking with friends in the 18th arr.

Sofia Coppola needs no introduction. One of our favorite filmmakers, she just launched Important Flowers, a publishing imprint of books that reflect her interests across film, fashion, art and photography. She lived in Paris with her family for several years before moving back to NYC. 

Sophia Achaval and Lucila Sperber are the Argentine co-founders of ÀCHEVAL, a Paris-based fashion brand inspired by the gaucho spirit.

Tony Conrad is a founder and investor, former board director of Blue Bottle Coffee and current board member of the Tony Hawk Foundation, holder of Parking Karma and Drip Coffee Skills.

Victoire de Taillac-Touhami co-founded the apothecary brand Officine Universelle Buly, which has several locations in Paris.  

Vincent Ribat has always been passionate about the world of luxury luggage. With a background in interior design, he created the bags & accessories line Rue de Verneuil in 2014. 

The post Our Giant Paris Black Book appeared first on Yolo Journal.

I grew up in Burlingame, about 20 minutes south of San Francisco (right by the airport!), and my entire young adult life was focused on The City, where everything that mattered was happening. I lived there through college and then on and off for several years, until I moved to New York in ‘97. Luckily, I go back at least 3 to 4 times a year—it’s truly home for me, and putting this together has made me long for it. 

Besides making me deeply nostalgic, I also had several very satisfying full-circle moments putting this Black Book together. While writing about Bix, I had an urge to reach out to Tim Stannard, a busboy I befriended the first time I went there, when I was a sophomore in college. The supper club had just opened and, desperately wanting to be elegant and cool, I convinced my roommate we should go. We got dressed up, nervously ordered Kir Royales (a drink I’d heard my friend’s chic mom order once), and was served without being carded. As soon as I realized I wasn’t getting kicked out, I decided I wasn’t ever going to leave. I loved their jazz trio, the art, the sexy light, and the very cool maitre d’, Luigi. I think I was there every Friday night for several years, although I never did meet its legendary owner, Doug Biederbeck, until decades later, when friends introduced us. I’m particularly proud to count him as a contributor to this Black Book, as well as Tim, who grew up to be a great restaurateur. I can’t wait to go back to SF next month to see Doug at Bix and Tim at Spruce, although for a truly full-circle moment, Tim and I will meet up at Bix. 

This city completely shaped who I am—I learned about fancy restaurants here (Ernie’s and Stars!), real tacos (La Taqueria!), California cuisine (Zuni!), hotels (taking the outside elevator to the restaurant at the Fairmont!), designers (Ralph Davies’ epic store!), wine (PlumpJack!), clubbing (1015!), drinking proper cocktails (Bix!) and driving stick on hills. While its reputation may not be on the stellar side these days, it is such a soulful city, filled with great places and characters, and I really hope this list gets you as excited as I am to get back to it. —Yolanda

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

April Gargiulo – The founder of cult natural skincare brand Vintner’s Daughter comes from a Napa winemaking family (Gargiulo Vineyards), and is based between San Francisco and Napa. 

Aya Brackett is a photographer based in Oakland, who lives with her film director husband and two kids. She loves photographing food and travel and has received a James Beard Award and several James Beard nominations for her work. 

Athena Hewett is the founder of the skincare brand Monastery and owner of the Monastery spa in San Francisco’s Noe Valley neighborhood. She lives with her family in the Soma district of San Francisco. 

Christine Gaudenzi has lived in San Francisco for 30+ years, working in hospitality marketing for hotels in the region, and for the last 12 years overseeing marketing/PR/comms for Francis Ford Coppola and his Family Coppola Hideaways. A new hideaway in San Francisco’s historic Sentinel building will be opening in late 2025-early 2026.

Cindy Richter has been working with small organic family farmers in California, Mexico and beyond for over 25 years. Along the way, she co-founded an heirloom apple cidery in Eastern Washington, grew sprouts in Marin County, and served on a foundation board focused on hunger relief. When she’s not tending to her garden or cooking up seasonal preserves, you can find her and her daughter, Scout, hosting seasonal jam pop-ups in parklets around their San Francisco Bernal Heights neighborhood.  

Cristina Hudson, an alumna of Chez Panisse, is the co-owner of Hudson Ranch and Vineyards in Napa Valley, where she also opened the beloved Hudson Greens & Goods in Napa’s Oxbow Market. 

Doug Biederbeck is the owner of two popular restaurants in San Francisco: BIX in Jackson Square and FLORIO, a classic bistro, in Pacific Heights. An avid sportsman, he devotes his free time to flyfishing, shooting and other outdoor pursuits.

Heather Whitney Rosenfield is co-owner of the Poppy Stores, the chicest children’s boutiques in Marin, Montecito and Brentwood Country Marts. 

Katie Reicher is the executive chef of the iconic San Francisco restaurant Greens. Her debut cookbook, with 12-+ recipes celebrating globally-inspired vegetable cookery, Seasons of Greens (Weldon Owen), comes out in April 2025. 

Lauren Goodman is a stylist, creative and journalist based in the Bay Area. She served as founding fashion director of WSJ’s Off Duty section, Nowness, Domino and WIRED magazines.

Libby DeLana is an award-winning executive creative director, designer and art director by trade, who has spent her career in the ad world. She is the co-host of This Morning Walk Podcast with Alex Elle, has a 12-year daily walk practice and is the author of Do Walk: Navigate Earth, Mind and Body. Step by Step.

Maca Huneeus is an interior designer based in Sausalito, who has lived in San Francisco for 30 years. She is the founder of Maca Huneeus Design.

Maggie Wilson is the creative director of The Shelter Co. family of brands currently working on their first hotel project, The River Electric, coming to Guerneville, California in May 2025. A San Francisco native, she now lives between the woods and the ocean in Northern California with her husband, Tim Marvin, and their two dogs.  

Marissa Klurstein has always loved hotels. For a decade, she worked with top creative agencies and brands as a strategist and writer. Now, she’s the founder of Happy Hoteling, a curation of the most special hotels and places throughout the world, for Good People with Good Taste. She grew up in Mill Valley, 8 miles north of SF, then after living in NY and LA, had a pandemic year in Marin before moving to SF, where she’s been for 3 years. 

Marissa Thieriot owned the beloved Rancho Llano Seco with her husband and now runs MGT Architectural Color, which provides color direction for architecture, branding and product projects. 

Matt Hranek is the author of A Man & His Car, A Man & His Watch, A Man & His Kitchen, The Negroni: A Love Affair with a Classic Cocktail, The Martini: Perfection in a Glass, and founder of WM Brown Magazine.

Philippine Scali brings French sensibility to San Francisco as the creative director and founder of C’est Beau Chez Toi, her home styling business. Her diverse career spans styling, art direction, and luxury brand consulting for names like Cartier and Louis Vuitton. For over a decade, she’s been sourcing vintage treasures from French markets, creating a unique bridge between European elegance and California living. 

Rebecca Misner is the senior features editor at Condé Nast Traveler, where she’s worked since 2013. Prior to a career in publishing, she was a commercial litigator in New York City, where she gained perhaps too much insight into business travel but a keen appreciation for vacation days. She lives in San Francisco with her family and finds the hiking and tacos much better than in New York, but still longs for an East Coast fall and a decent slice after a night out with old friends. 

Scott Clark worked in San Francisco’s Michelin-starred kitchens Benu and Saison, where he developed a deep appreciation for the harvest of Central California, particularly of Half Moon Bay. He is now the owner and operator of Dad’s Luncheonette and lives in Half Moon Bay with his daughter.

Susan Greenleaf is an interior designer based in San Francisco, where she founded Greenleaf Design Studio in 2012 after living in London with her husband and twins. Before transitioning to design, she spent over 15 years leading PR, media, and special projects teams at San Francisco ad agencies and Gap Inc.’s headquarters.

Tim Marvin is the founder of GLOR and GLOR Consulting. He dropped out of politics during the pandemic to focus on a clothing line and to help local Bay Area businesses build their brands and online presence. 

Tim Stannard is the founder and president of Bacchus Management Group, a Bay Area hospitality company that owns some of the most awarded and beloved restaurants in Northern California, including Spruce, Selby’s, The Village Pub, Pizza Antica, La Connessa, Magic Donuts, Louie’s Original, The Village Bakery, and more.

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When I look back at our first London Black Book which we published two years ago, it makes me proud to see how far we’ve come from what was essentially a list of my personal favorites, peppered with some suggestions from a couple of friends. As our Black Books have evolved, we realized that we wanted a more rounded-out picture of a city—not only the places we love most. Sure, I can wax on about my favorite hotel bars, fish & chips, clothing shops on repeat and the oddball hardware store that has the best moth repellent! But what I really want is to hear from my friends (and their friends) who live all over this city that’s so perfectly old-world, yet always has something new going on. As usual, we asked our most creative locals, but we also wanted to include the kids (thanks, Giacomo and Jay!), international transplants (Ashley and Ariel), and frequent visitors (Marie-Louise). I was there two weeks ago, and how I wish I’d had this list then! I can’t wait to put all of these great suggestions into my London Google map and settle into much more than a long weekend. It’s really so good—I hope you enjoy it as much as I do! —Yolanda

CONTRIBUTORS

Álvaro González is an accessories designer based between London and Florence.

Anda Rowland is the owner and director of famed Savile Row tailoring house, Anderson & Sheppard. 

Ashley Baker is the deputy editor for Air Mail; she moved from New York to the Kensington neighbourhood of London with her family a couple of years ago. You can hear “Morning Meeting,” her always-entertaining podcast with fellow deputy editor Michael Hainey, here.

Ariel Childs is a New Yorker who moved to London in 1997 where she has since worked as a creative in editorial, communications and branding. She is the CEO and executive creative director of the branding agency, Winkreative. 

Ava Arroyo hails from America but now calls London home. Our friend and OG Yolo reader, she used part of her sabbatical from Google to help us during our big transition to the web this past summer. Living in De Beauvoir Town in East London, she spends her free time exploring every nook and cranny of the city’s 607 square miles.

Charlotte Forsyth Wastell is a London-based photographer and half of @hands.london, an events and food-styling consultancy. She spends most of her time travelling, running and eating at restaurants. 

Emilie Hawtin is the founder of Clementina, a tailoring and editorial project collaborating with tailors, shirtmakers, and shoemakers. She also recently started a Substack where she talks about style, people, places, and well-made things. 

Emily FitzRoy is the founder of Bellini Travel. While best known as an Italy specialist extraordinaire, she lives in London and has a penchant for the city’s traditional side. 

Giac & Jay are a dynamic duo who have lived in London their entire lives. Giacomo lives in Primrose Hill and is currently studying for his MA at the Courtauld in London. Jay grew up in North London and is a student at the University of Edinburgh. 

Gianluca Longo is the style director of The World of Interiors, following a 25-year career in magazines (British Vogue, Cabana, and W) and consulting for brands such as Tods, Ginori 1735 and Ralph Lauren. He has lived in the UK for almost 3 decades, and considers London home.

James Massey runs Massey Style, a PR agency representing many of the best and most respected luxury brands in the world. 

Jennica Arazi is the London-based owner of The Marbella Club, a YOLO favorite in southern Spain that is in its 70th year.

Jules Perowne is founder and CEO of the influential PR firm, Perowne International. She grew up on a farm in Norfolk, but makes her home in Brackenbury Village in West London with her husband and son.

Kim Sion is a creative consultant, ceramicist, wife, mother and animal lover, who lives in Shepherd’s Bush.

Laura Jackson is the co-founder of Glassette, a curated homeware marketplace, and a British broadcaster. She lives in East London with her three children and photographer husband. As a Soho magpie, she can be mostly found upstairs in Quo Vadis or sipping coffee in Bar Italia.

Louis Sheridan is a multi-disciplinary artist based between London and Paris. His first book, Making Hay, was just published, and is a love letter to the wilds of Yorkshire where he grew up. 

Margo Marrone is a pharmacist with a specialisation in herbalism and homoeopathy, and a clean beauty pioneer with the founding of The Organic Pharmacy in 2002. She now runs Eyeam with her daughter, Roxy—a wellness solution led brand based on four pillars of mind, body, spirit and skin.

Marie-Louise Sciò is the CEO and creative director of the Pellicano Hotels, which includes the Hotel Il Pellicano, Mezzatorre, La Posta Vecchia, and the lifestyle brand, Issimo.

Maria Lemos is the founder of Rainbow Wave and the owner of our favorite concept shop in London and Athens, Mouki Mou. 

Mats Klingberg is the Swedish-born, London-based founder of Trunk Clothiers, a menswear brand with a store on Chiltern Street. 

Matt Hranek is the author of A Man & His Watch, A Man & His Car, The Negroni: A Love Affair with a Classic Cocktail, The Martini: Perfection in a Glass, and founder of Wm Brown Magazine. His cookbook, A Man & His Kitchen, came out last fall. 

Matthew Coles is a brand specialist and photographer. He has worked with many brands in developing their marketing and creative, including Drake’s and New & Lingwood, among others.

Maya Zafeiropoulou-Martinou is the founder of Crini & Sophia, a Greek tableware brand, and operates OIKOS, a design-minded furniture store. She relocated from her hometown of Athens to London with her family of six. 

Melissa Morris is the American-born founder and creative director of leather goods brand Métier, whose flagship boutique is on London’s South Audley Street. 

Oddur Thorisson is a photographer based in Turin who is currently working with his wife, Mimi, on her fourth cookbook and her second focusing on Italian cuisine (the first being Old World Italian). He is also writing a novel, largely set around the table.

Paul Croughton is a writer and journalist who has edited magazines on both sides of the Atlantic. He was global editor in chief of Robb Report, based in NYC, but recently returned to his native UK to run Robb Report’s ecomm platform, The Vault, and lives just outside London with his wife, son and puppy, Parker.

Paula Fitzherbert is the deeply beloved (and connected) group communications director of The Maybourne Group, which includes Claridge’s, The Connaught, The Berkeley and The Emory in London. 

Philomena Schurer is the founder of Riad Mena in Marrakech. Half-German, half-Norwegian, and born and raised in London, she’s lived and worked in Mexico City, Munich, New York, Paris, Berlin and Stockholm.

 Thom Fortune, a Londoner turned Angeleno, blends British sensibility with California’s cool in his work as a brand consultant and photographer. He collaborates with brands like Faust Wines, George Cleverley, and Malibu Beach Inn.

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I grew up, went to college and had my first jobs in the Bay Area, but somehow, the Napa Valley was always (or seemed to be) out of reach. I’d take a drive to Stinson Beach, maybe as far north as Point Reyes, but never to Napa. In my head, it was for people who were really into wine, or really wealthy—and both were intimidating to me. At some point in the mid-’90s, my dear friend Laura Cunningham started working at this restaurant called The French Laundry, and we went up to visit her and eat at the restaurant. That turned into a small story for Wallpaper* Magazine, and so we went another time, and then a couple more stories for other magazines meant more trips to the area. More friendships were made, the wine labels became more familiar, and I started to feel comfortable there. 

Over the last five years, I’ve been going at least 3 to 4 times a year, as I do some consulting out there. It has been such a gift—I get to be back in my beloved state, and I’ve gotten to know the year-round community. While Napa gets a lot of flack for being fancy and expensive (the phrase “adult Disney” gets thrown around), if you scratch the surface and spend some time there with the locals, you’ll find the nicest group of people who are passionate about and want to protect the farming community they live in, whether they work in wine, or agriculture, or neither. 

I’ve rounded up these nice people to tell you their favorites, alongside mine. It’s harvest season, after all, so it’s an exciting time to be out there! Directionally, we’ve divided it into two sections, Napa Valley and Sonoma County. Now, if you’re a Bay Area local, you’ll know how huge and unwieldy Sonoma County is. Don’t worry—we aren’t covering the whole of it, it’s just too big! If you’re feeling ambitious or want to make a longer road trip of it and head to the Sonoma Coast, we have this great list here). We’re sticking to a loop of sorts, from Napa to Calistoga and over to Healdsburg and down to Sonoma. Base yourself wherever suits, make some (but not too many) reservations, and build in some unscheduled/serendipity time so you’ll meet some locals, maybe make some friends, and be back soon! —Yolanda

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew Mariani – Co-founder and vintner of Scribe Winery in Sonoma, he and his brother, Adam, are also fourth-generation California farmers.

Annie Favia – The viticulturist of Favia Wines, which she co-founded with her husband, Andy Erickson, Annie also crafts a tea brand, Erda, offering beautiful organic whole leaf and flower herbal teas harvested in the Napa Valley.

April Gargiulo – The founder of cult natural skincare brand Vintner’s Daughter comes from a Napa winemaking family (Gargiulo Vineyards), and is based between San Francisco and Napa. 

Cristina Hudson, an alumna of Chez Panisse, is the co-owner of Hudson Ranch and Vineyards in Napa Valley, where she also opened the beloved Hudson Greens & Goods in Napa’s Oxbow Market. 

Dina Dwyer is an interior designer whose work has been featured in Vogue to Architectural Digest. In 2014, she undertook a 4-year restoration project in Calistoga listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Now a small luxury hotel called The Francis House, which she owns and operates, it has been named the Best Bed & Breakfast in Napa Valley.

Elizabeth Dye is the co-founder of the women’s fashion line Maxwell and Geraldine, who believes in dressing for the life you want, and lugging at least three bags while traveling. She lives between San Francisco and Napa. 

Ella Brooks – Born into a family of farmers and grape growers, Ella is director of operations at Favia Wines and loves investigating Napa Valley’s hidden corners in her free time.

Gigi Harlan lives in the Napa Valley with her husband, Will Harlan, daughter, Audrey, and Jack Russell, Berkeley. An avid traveler, she also hosts Women Wellness and Wine gatherings. 

Isabelle Smith is a Los Angeles-based marketing and creative consultant who grew up in Napa Valley. Through her brand, Archer Dean, she works across the fields of wine, fashion, beauty and lifestyle. Her family founded and still operates Hourglass Estate in the Valley, where she continues to consult. 

Jay Jeffers is the designer and co-owner of the boutique hotel, The Madrona, in Healdsburg, and an interior designer on Elle Décor’s A-list who has authored two books, Collected Cool and Be Bold. He lives between San Francisco and wine country.

Kate Cunningham – Our friend Kate has worked with us for years, most recently at Condé Nast Traveler, and lives in Knight’s Valley north of Calistoga where she is a freelance photo researcher. 

Kyle Connaughton & Katina Connaughton – California native Katina and husband Kyle, co-owners of SingleThread in Healdsburg, have been together since they met at 15. Kyle, the restaurant-inn’s chef, worked in Japan and some of LA’s most storied kitchens including A.O.C and Lucques, while head farmer Katina trained in sustainable ag and oversees the SingleThread farm. 

Liddy Parlato – A Napa-based creative strategist and storyteller and SF advertising-agency veteran, she is currently director of marketing for Sonoma’s Flowers Vineyards & Winery.

Mai Errazuriz is the director of marketing at Paul Hobbs Winery in Sebastopol and co-founder of Far Mountain Wine.

Matt Morris is an Emmy-nominated director, photographer and vintner who splits his time between the Napa Valley and Los Angeles. 

Paul Coker has been in the wine industry for more than fifteen years, serving as a wine director and sommelier—he was a finalist in the Best USA Sommelier competition in 2019—before becoming assistant restaurant GM of Montage Healdsburg’s Hazel Hill. 

Scott Dadich is a founder of and CEO of GDP, a creative agency that builds story-driven brands. He is the former editor in chief of WIRED and the creator and executive producer of Netflix’s “Abstract: The Art of Design.” His list is a joint effort with his wife, Amy Dadich,

Tim Marvin – The founder of GLOR and GLOR Consulting, he dropped out of politics during the pandemic to focus on a clothing line and to help local Bay Area businesses build their brands and online presence. 

Other YOLO contributors: Alex Postman (deputy editor), Carly Shea (associate editor)

P.S. Pro tip from Cristina Hudson: “Organize your visit by area. You don’t want to be driving up and down the valley. Consider one, max two tastings a day…not more.” If you don’t want to drive, Ubers are hard to find, so she recommends Napa Valley Chauffeur car service. I also don’t always rent a car when I’m in town, and in the past have used Jim Adamson, an excellent driver with a 6-seater car, who took me from St. Helena to the airport in Santa Rosa, the Charles Schulz Sonoma County Airport (side note: a great airport to fly into if you’re just going to Napa or the Sonoma Coast). Jim charges $200 for a pickup or dropoff at SFO or Oakland, roughly $100 less than what an SF-based driver would charge, because he’s based in Napa. (707) 287-2306. 

The post Napa & Sonoma Black Book appeared first on Yolo Journal.

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Anna Mora is a Barcelona native and passionate traveler who runs communications for Anna Mora & Brunella, a Spanish fashion label founded by her mother.

Antonella Tiganelli is a chef, creative director and food artist who co-founded the Poblenou hotspot Masa Vins and the “gastro theater” concept Food Rituals, which has done culinary installations for Soho House Barcelona and Barcelona-based Muses of Now (known for their traveling dinner series for women in the arts). 

Carmen Riestra is a curator and founder of the VASTO, a Barcelona gallery dedicated to supporting and discovering emerging artists and designers.

Gregori Civera is a Barcelona-based photographer who works in long-term documentary projects around built environments as well as commercial/editorial for clients including Ricardo Bofill Taller de Arquitectura, Wallpaper*, and Monocle. He currently has a show at Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA) documenting life and change in Barcelona’s suburbs.

Inés Miró-Sans was born in Barcelona and, after working for brands such as Hotel OMM and Ace New York, co-founded Casa Bonay in 2016 (which she had begun as her MBA project a decade earlier). The Barcelona boutique hotel has since won all sorts of awards and is beloved by many of our contributors, below.

Javier Llaudet is the founder of Arrels, Barcelona, a swimwear and clothing brand rooted in Spain. 

Júlia Juste, born and raised in Barcelona, is the founder of Outliers Guide, a website devoted to uncovering exceptional hotels and guesthouses worldwide. 

Jordi Luque is a storyteller with a focus on gastronomy. He is passionate about connecting people through good stories, food and drinks.

Siobhan Reid is a Canadian-born freelance writer based in Barcelona, who writes an excellent Spain-centric Substack. Previously, she was an editor at Travel + Leisure. Her writing can be found in Vogue, Departures, and The New York Times Style Magazine. And she was an enormous help to us in putting together this list, reaching out to a number of her creative contacts on our behalf!

Suzanne Wales is a Barcelona-based writer on design, architecture and lifestyle. When not at her desk, she is showing visitors the latest hot spots and off-the-radar gems through her company Barcelona Design Tours. Her latest book, Made in Spain, is a journey through Spain through local craft and artisan traditions. 

Thao Phuong is a fashion designer who grew up in Melbourne and is now based in Barcelona. After two decades in the fashion industry she founded TextileSeekers, which organizes sustainable textile-focused trips through Vietnam highlighting provenance, craftsmanship and artisanal community heritage. You can read more about TextileSeekers here. 

Tomer Botner was born in Tel-Aviv and has lived in Barcelona since 2015. He is the founder of Florentine Kitchen Knives, where he designs and makes exceptional bespoke cooking tools for some of the world’s most accomplished restaurants and professional and amateur cooks. He is also the co-founder of The Sharpening Shop, a holistic Poblenou-based sharpening service, and host of the Florentine Lunch Club, a monthly gathering of curious palates and minds who explore dishes and wines on Sundays on communal tables at the specious FKK workshop. 

Valeska Idarraga is the co-founder and CMO of Paladar y Tomar, a Spanish boutique DMC that specializes in crafting unique, innovative and inspiring food and wine journeys. They cover Barcelona and all of Catalonia with a special gourmet touch, and run small food and wine group tours in the region that they personally lead every year.

Xavier Franquesa is an interior designer and creative director turned gallerist. In 2010 he founded il·lacions, the first gallery in Barcelona dedicated exclusively to local 21st-century design, creating value and bringing visibility to its more than 60 collaborating creators, exhibiting their furniture and objects, unique pieces or limited series.

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