HOTEL-OBSESSED
In love with the classics and sports their iconic emblems wherever possible

Le Colombe d’Or menu tablecloth – The chicest menu from the coolest hotel

Chateau Marmont Keychain Tassel and their branded t-shirts

The Ritz Paris bathrobe – The plushest robe in their signature apricot-hue 

Canned peaches from The Greenbrier 

These perfectly kitchy Madonna Inn glass goblets

Eloise at The Plaza matching slippers for parents and kids

The Hotel de Crillon’s Rivolta Carmigniani bedding – Sadly, the bed-making itself is DIY

A Bemelmans Bar Tote or these adorable branded linen cocktail napkins to spruce up cocktail hour at home

Mini Pellicano bag – Conversation starter meets flex, perfect for walking around other hotels with your sunscreen, glasses, and a book

Ritz luggage tag – Everyone needs a good luggage tag, right?

Raffles Singapore coasters – The birthplace of the Singapore Sling!

Bring Mezzatorre into the backyard with this umbrella

Claridge’s tote – To make schlepping groceries slightly more glamorous

The Mark Hotel slippers 

Villa d’Este monogrammed ashtray – If you didn’t steal yours during your stay

Eden Rock x Diptique Ylang room spray 

Hotel Splendide by Ludwig Bemelmans – A fun and gossipy read about the BTS of hotel life

COOKS & EATERS
Comes back from Marrakech with preserved lemons and saffron, books tables before flights, and always packs a tin of moshio salt

World Kitchen Explorer Subscription – Each monthly send comes with 7 or 8 spices and globally-inspired recipes to push your repertoire 

Millie’s Thai Lemongrass Sipping Broth – Brilliantly packaged in tea bags so you can sip broth on the go

Jacobson’s travel sized infused salts – A little goes a long way!

Crepe spreader – To step up your crepe technique 

TNFx Bialetti Travel Moka Set – Everything intrepid javaphiles need to make a proper pour in their Airbnb or on top of a mountain

Staub fondue pot – Channeling Swiss chalets at home

Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child. Iconic.  

Brasserie Lipp espresso set – For a morning cup that transports you to one of our favorite Parisian brasseries

Tabletop hibachi grill – Inspired by traditional Japanese yakitori grills, an apartment-friendly grill that doubles as a griddle for pancakes or burgers

WM Brown apron – Made in a sturdy Japanese selvedge denim with dual front pockets 

Maison Masarin vintage French tea towels – Carefully sourced from around France, then revived in their Lyon artisan workshop. Durable, absorbent… and we’re a sucker for old French linens.  

These traditional donabe pots from Iga, Japan, are made with naturally high-heat resistant clay that has been used for open-flame cooking for hundreds of years.

Japan: The Cookbook by Nancy Singleton Hachisu. Essential. 

Moroccan tagine – The perfect vessel for making your own slow-simmered stew (with those preserved lemons you brought back)

Traditional Molcajete – This Mexican kitchen staple will seriously elevate your guac game, and looks so great on the counter.

PotLuck Market Sauce trio – A trio of Korean jangs—fermented sauces or pastes used for seasoning—that work as dips, marinades, or dolloped into soups

Le Fontaine de Mars napkin – “We have Fontaine de Mars at home”

Italian pasta chitarra – For that friend who took a cooking class in Italy and hasn’t made fresh pasta since

Ravioli stamp – The pasta accessory nobody knew they needed

Indian Cookery: A Cookbook (40th anniv. edition) by Madhur Jaffrey

CHIC NOMAD
Swears by our favorite (Yolo-approved) travel uniforms

Ancient Greek pony mule – They go with everything, and are dressy without taking up as much space as heels. 

Comme Si Cashmere Hooded Scarf – Perfect for keeping warm on the plane  

Our favorite cashmere turtlenecks on the high and low end of the spectrum

Kule “Over the Shoulder” Tote – A carry-all for flea or farmers market hopping that packs down flat in your suitcase 

Navy polka dot scarf from William Crabtree  

45r unisex long sleeve t shirt – Great layering pieces for a capsule travel wardrobe from a cult-favorite Japanese brand 

Birkenstock shearling slide – Keep your feet comfy on the plane and miles beyond! 

Gammarelli Papal Socks – Pure silk Italian socks that come Pope-approved

Ann Mashburn Safari Shirt – Equally rugged and chic, and a great travel shirt for all seasons

&Daughter Cashmere Triangle Scarf – For bundling up without the extra volume 

Dragon Diffusion bag – A bag that can go from beach to dinner 

Comme Des Garçons Polka Dot Clutch – To store your passport or take out on the town

Ann Mashburn Lara pants – The most flattering pants that hold their shape even after a red eye in row 34

Baggu Travel Cloud Bag – A well-designed personal item with a trolley strap and laptop sleeve that folds down to nothing if you need to stash it away

Alex Mill Pajamas – PJs you won’t be embarrassed to greet room service in

Olympia Le Tan passport clutch – Where to next? 

Clare V Grande Fanny – Perfect for wandering hands-free in a Moroccan medina or while biking along the Seine

Aime Leon Dore travel slipper – Comes with a smart zip-up pouch to store in your carry-on 

The Il Bisonte Yolo Bag – Duh!

En Route charm – A most elegant travel talisman

Silk Laundry blazer and pants – A 100% silk set that feels like pajamas, yet sleek enough to wear to a meeting straight from the airport

Malachite charm – A traveler’s stone said to bring good luck on trips

New&Lingwood Yolo smoking jacket – Combines the ease of a dressing gown and the elegance of eveningwear

These Asahi deck shoes slip on and off seamlessly to breeze through TSA

Métier Stowaway bag – Brilliantly designed to work as a clipped-in organizer within the larger Métier bags, or worn with a crossbody strap on its own. 

PRODUCT JUNKIE
Always optimizing their in-flight skincare routine or testing the latest K-beauty fad

Take it with you

YSE Brightening & Depuffing Eye Patches – Perfect to wear on the plane if you want to land glowing, but refuse to wear a full sheet mask in-flight

My Neighbor’s Facial Cleanser Bar – Liquid-free face wash for the friend who’s constantly maxing out their TSA baggies

Skinsheet Cleansing Coins – 1-inch coins that expand to a 10×10” facecloth with a bit of water

Jao Refresher Sanitizer – A multipurpose sanitizer spray that disinfects your hands (without drying them!), but also works as a zitzapper, aftershave or under-arm refresher

Dualist Balancing Oil Serum – The best oil-meets-serum that is absorbent, not greasy, and easy to throw in your bag for doubly-duty when packing carry-on. 

Aesop Ginger Flight Therapy – The best roll-on pulse point therapy that soothes nausea and stress

Monastery’s Universal Balm – An all-in-one hydrating skin salve that’s great for the face, hands and body

OMAD Bio Cellulose Restore & Repair Serum Mask – Designed to heal compromised skin after laser treatments or chemical peels, this single-sheet mask is what your skin craves after hours of stale plane air.

Travel size La Bonne Brosse – The founders of this cult favorite French beauty brand swear brushing your hair after flying is like pressing the reset button for your scalp and your mood.

Egyptian Magic – Made with just six ingredients, this all-natural ointment is always in our bag to tame frizzy hair, use as a lip balm, or nourish dry skin. 

Saint Charles Propolis Candies – We love the immune-boosting propolis spray from this Viennese pharmacy, but these are a bit easier (and tastier) to travel with.

The chic, pocket-size French hand-mirror we swear by 

Transporting at home

Iris Hantverk Bath Brush – A gorgeous horsehair and oak body brush made by artisans in Sweden and Estonia  

Saint Charles Apothecary Hand Cream – This non-greasy cream smells like the Austrian Alps 

Lilis Korean Body Resurfacing Set – The best Korean body scrub you can find this side of Seoul

Blue Lagoon Lip Balm – Made with bioactive microalgae from Iceland’s Blue Lagoon, it’s one of the best hydrating lip treatments we’ve come across

Japanese onsen bath salts – A blend of hinoki essential oil and onsen minerals extracted from Mt. Yakedake in the Japanese Alps, which breaks down hardened keratin and smooths skin

Lavender Oil – Pure lavender oil with no preservatives or additives, sourced directly from a farmer in Mont Ventoux, Provence. Pour a bit into your bubble bath, spray it on your pillow, or dab it on as a natural mosquito repellent. 

Naxos Apothecary soap – One of our favorite pharmacies in Greece thankfully ships worldwide, and this bar of soap that smells like an outdoor shower after a day at the beach is the next-best thing to a flight to Naxos. 

Kama Ayurveda Body Oils – Abhayanga at home with oils specific to your dosha

Costa Brazil lymphatic massage duo – Firming body oil with a massage brush equals Brazilian-looking skin

Savonnerie Le Serail Olive Oil soap – All-natural and hypoallergenic soap made by artisans in Marseille that’s safe for skin and home 

ARTISAN WORKSHOP WANDERER
Can’t pass a loom or pottery wheel without bringing home a souvenir that needs its own carry-on

This marbleized ceramic plate from Totem Home, made in a female-led Portuguese atelier, would make such a pretty cheese or cookie plate.

Romanian Horezu vase 

A Kene tapestry representing ancestral memories—made by the remote Amazonian Shipbo tribe on a backstrap loom (whose designs inspired a Dior purse)—is so stunning, and is said to carry harmonizing energy!

Barrocal Handwoven blanket – These intricately patterned blankets are handwoven on traditional wooden looms by artisans in the Alentejo region of Portugal. 

The smoke-fired Oaxacan clay vase by master potter Rufina Ruiz Lopez has multiple handles and would look great on a mantle or stuffed with blooms. 

Maybe this is the year to get a Sicilian “Testa di Moro” from one of the best local sources?

The Elephant Way’s Ranger Parka comes in a rich oxblood red and is embellished with valor bars handbeaded by Samburu mamas. 100% of profits are returned to support indigenous communities and their sacred land. 

Norlha Split Cape – Made from softest yak down it’s definitely a splurge, but was handwoven by artisans all the way on the Tibetan plateau and is fantastic for travel. 

The Kashmir Loom Sariska Stole is another irresistible wrap from afar, made in Ladakh from Changra goat cashmere.

This smoky handblown ashtray could not be chicer (for holding nuts, not just butts) and was made in a NYC Chinatown atelier.

This signet ring crafted from lapis lazuli and 18k gold by a master metalsmith in Nantucket will make you feel like island royalty.

We’re obsessed with the elaborate ceramics style of Michoacán, Mexico, and have our eye on this gorgeous blooming barro vidriado-style vase by Studio Binat. 

An Egyptian royal palm plate – How cute is that? And it’s made in Fayoum! 

We’ve long coveted these elegant beaded cuffs made by Tanzanian women’s collective, Sidai Designs.

Still waiting for someone to buy us this wavy Ghanaian basket

Our favorite wicker-workers at Atelier Vime are offering their version of a 19th-century Provençal fruit-gathering basket filled with local olive oil, handcrafted trivets and soaps, and more.

Peruvian alpaca throw – Spiffs up the arm of any couch.

Threads of Time: This gorgeous new book is a journey in textiles across the globe, with photos by several Yolo contributors!

Oil paintings by Lotta Teale transport you to Provence, Venice, the Dolomites and beyond.

A VAWAA Gift Card is a down payment towards a “Vacation With an Artist” trip (weaving in Oaxaca, printmaking in Kyoto, traditional cooking in Greece…). Yes, please! 

LITTLE TRAVELERS 
To expand their world, keep them occupied, and get them there without a hitch 

​​Push pin globes – We love this as a gift for kids that’s really a keepsake for the parents, to commemorate a first international trip 

Hey Kids, Watch This – Dozens of adult and kid-approved movie recommendations that span decades, countries and genres, so in-flight screen time feels a bit more intentional 

Kid Travel guide books – A great gift if they have a specific upcoming trip to get excited about

Travel backpack – Manageable enough that kids can carry it themselves

Dusen Dusen Recycled Leather Luggage Tag

Baby Bjorn Crib – Yolo-tested: the best travel crib by far! 

Travel highchair – A portable chair that hooks right onto the table at dinner, then folds up after 

Cute packing cubes in punchy colors motivate kids to pitch in

Childrens travel pillow – Kid-sized with cheery sayings 

JetKids BedBox – A genius ride-on suitcase that turns an airplane seat into a toddler-size bed 

PJ sets that double as outfits—perfect for plane rides and cute enough for hotel breakfasts 

Mini Magnatiles– Game changer as a plane activity 

Non-rolling crayons – Made for kid-size hands, these are triangular so they won’t roll off the tray table! 

Fahlo Plush Tracking – Sweet stuffed animals that track real lives ones, with proceeds going to support conservation efforts

United States wooden puzzle – A classic! 

Travel inspired legos – An Italian postcard? Cherry blossoms in Japan? We won’t judge if you buy these for yourself. 

Explorers Suitcase – Kitted out with a treasure box, binoculars, and everything they need to play “explorer”

John Derian stickers – So you can all pass a couple of hours in-flight without screens

Adopt a baby orphan elephant through the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust! The funds directly support the Nairobi-based nonprofit’s care for rescued baby ellies, as well as their antipoaching conservation work in Kenya. Or sponsor a rescued cheetah through the Cheetah Conservation Fund, a giraffe through the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (both in Namibia), or a gorilla through the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Rwanda—and all proceeds support these organizations’ impactful conservation work. 

THE CONSTANT TRAVELER 
Knows every airport lounge Wi-Fi password by heart and yes, they’ll take it to go

Portable speaker – Because a good playlist instantly makes a hotel room feel more homey 

Bose Frames Tenor – Sunglasses with built-in headphones for that person who is always losing both

Portable charger – The best one we’ve come across that can fully charge a laptop, or a smartphone four times over, with USB-A, USB-C, and wall charging ports

Airpods with live translation – So you can finally understand mass at the Vatican 

Airfly device – A genius invention that connects your airpods to the plane TV, so you don’t have to suffer through Crazy Rich Asians with tinny audio for a 12th time.

Travel Reading Light – Do not disturb thy neighbor

Portable steamer – Wrinkles are inevitable. Luckily this steamer is sleek, under 2lbs, and uses dry steam that won’t leave your clothes damp.

L’Uniform crossbody pouch – To hold your passport and phone in transit, or to keep some doggy bags handy on a walk

The chicest water bottle that looks like hand blown glass, without the added weight. 

Suri electric toothbrush – Uses the same charging port as an iPhone and has the coolest self-cleaning UV travel case

Ettinger Personalised Pill Case – Not your grandma’s travel pill case!

Smythson Passport Cover – Crossgrain leather in a lovely range of colors, with easy access pockets for your passport and boarding pass

Foldable, superlight travel yoga mat – If you just have to downward dog everywhere

Clare V travel domino set – For the analog traveler

These incredibly elegant, linen, made to order travel pouches. 

Travel-friendly incense – Tiny incense packets that fit in your wallet and are designed like matches, so no lighter needed!

Ettinger card case – Play hearts on the go, but make it chic

Longchamp Le Pliage Original – Iconic for a reason 

This and this dopp kit are made with waterproof zippers, NASA grade insulation, and a reflective surface that keep your cosmetics or tech at a stable temperature, even in a hot car or at the beach.  

Ralph Lauren Cashmere Travel Kit – For that friend who’s always cold on the plane

July trackable suitcase – You’ll never worry about forgetting to put an Airtag in your suitcase again! 

Rimowa carry-on – Our polycarbonate cases have circled the world with us many times over, and they only look better the more dinged up they get.

Wm Brown x Seil Marshall carryon – Family favorite, obvi.

Rue de Verneuil Traversée bag – Works double duty as a handbag or carry on, and expands/contracts with snap closures  

Cram packing cubes – These come in fun, bright colors and have an impressive amount of compression

Briggs & Riley larger format packing cubes are our go-to for checked bags

Cadence parcel & capsules – We have sung the praises of these before and we will again.

Métier Vérité Weekend Duffel – Perfect shape, and even has a laptop sleeve

Ries set of travel containers – For the friend who can’t live without their full haircare routine on the road 

Lexxola glasses & jewelry case – A cute solution for the sunglasses-obsessed

Parallelle toiletry bag – Our friends Pia and Natasha talked about this bag in a way we’ve never heard someone talk about a toiletry bag

A credit card and coin purse from our favorite leather shop in Milan, Pettinaroli

Smythson Chess roll – Portable board with two zip pouches for all 32 mini pieces 

ADVENTUROUS SPIRIT
Plans their trips around sunrise hikes, never caught without an extra layer, and believes “function” is its own form of beauty  

Sentier Italia hiking boots – Finally, a hiking boot so chic you’ll wear it off-trail

Sparkling water bottle – The coolest portable soda maker for your acqua frizzante obsessed friend

Amundsen Field blanket – Waxed cotton on one side, brushed flannel on the other, with a layer of cozy Norwegian wool in the middle to lay down for a picnic or wrap up around a campfire

Fieldbar cooler – This retro-looking cooler can keep up to three bottles of wine chilled for hours in the sun

Design-y rechargeable mini lantern – Rechargeable with a USB-C port—no batteries needed! 

Cold Plunge Changing Robe – Keep dry and warm after swims, surfs, or cold plunges

Wm Brown x Chatham Camp Blanket – Rugged and versatile, WM Brown collaborated with a family that’s been making blankets in this style since the 1800s, designed to go everywhere with you. 

Monogrammed Original Swiss Army Knife – What can’t this do?

Cold Joy on the art of the plunge and wild swimming, by Libby DeLana

Blundstone suede clogs – Something easy to kick on and off for airport security or at the entrance to your tent

Daiichi Raka Boots – Vulcanized (completely sealed) boots made in Japan with a helpful strap to tug them on or pull them off

Burton’s brilliant neck warmer magnets directly onto your ski goggles for fog-free warmth and no gap over the bridge of your nose

Alpine Refuges – Mountain hygge by Aaron Rolph

Mini theragun – To unwind after a day on the trails or slopes

Tracksmith ultra-lightweight rain jacket – “There’s no bad weather, only bad gear”

Binoculars – Maybe 2026 is the year to finally get into bird watching

Mini bike pump 

Yeti tumbler – Utilitarian for obvious reasons, but we love it because it doubles as a cocktail shaker in a pinch

National Park Foundation – Make a donation to the official nonprofit arm of the National Parks Service, which protects and improves more than 400 parks across the US and needs a lift now more than ever!

THE MEMORY-KEEPER  
Always stops to paint (or journal) the flowers 

Schmincke Retro watercolor set – For plein-air painting when the inspiration strikes 

Watercolor travel journal with postcard-sized paper to paint on 

Blackwing pencils – Ticonderoga who?

Oroblanco sketchbook – Really lovely textured paper and a flexible binding for sketching on the go

Color Block Pencil Set

Kyoto pastels are inspired by the light of the city, and made by a 4th-gen, family-owned art supply company in Japan

Sienna plein air pochade box 

Portuguese pencils handcrafted in the oldest pencil factory in the Iberian Peninsula

Mudle crayons that could easily be mistaken for colorful rocks 

The chicest gold-edged notebooks

Serapian notebook – Bound in an Italian leather that feels as soft as cashmere

Kodak 35mm Reusable Camera – See your vacation on film

Zero Waste Disposable Camera – Mail in the whole camera once you’re done to get your film back, and they’ll refurbish the camera for its next user

Smythson photo corners to add your pictures to an album once you’re home 

Leaf imprint kits – Place shells, leafs, or whatever you want to make a print of on the paper and in 15 minutes on a sunny day you have a mess-free keepsake

Malachite pen from Pineider

THE HOST WITH THE MOST
Offers a standing invitation to their amazing beach/ski/country house

Night carafe – Made by skilled glassblowers in Chiba, Japan for almost 100 years

Matt Hranek’s Cocktail Books – Negronis, martinis, and more! 

Carl Auböck Brass Candle Holders – These would certainly score you an invite back

Carte D’Armenia Incense – Perfumed paper that burns flame-free. Made in Italy and inspired by the Armenian tradition of “medicinal papers,” which burned benzoin resin to purify the air 

Cosi Tabellini Pewter Cocktail Shaker and accessories – For stirring up Bond-worthy martinis

Mark Thomas wine glasses – Mouthblown wine glasses made in Austria, with slightly angular walls that enhance the tasting experience

The Wm Brown x Another Country Bar Cart

A Lisa Corti or Autumn Sonata tablecloth – Channel al fresco summer dinner parties on even the dreariest winter days 

Haws Faseley Watering Can – The most stylish way to irrigate

Giannini Firenze Marbled Guest Book – Guess who came for dinner? Now you don’t have to!

3lb bucket of Maldon salt – This industrial-sized tub of the best salt that money can buy will not go unused

Handmade Dutch gardening tools

Gohar World personalized embroidered lace envelopes – We doubt postage stamps would stick to these, but they’d be great for some chic jewelry storage 

A lovely chalice fruit bowl from Henry Holland

Mclean’s of Braemar Roe Buck candlestick – For your friend who went to Scotland this year and is dreaming of retiring to a restored bothy

Côte Bougie Moroccan Candle – The herb-scented candle we buy over and over again, poured in ceramic jars made in Tamegroute, Morocco

Skye McAlpine, The Christmas Companion – For that friend who starts decking the halls on Nov 1

A transportable boule set that almost looks like a sculpture 

Mariage Freres Wedding Imperial Tea 

Signe Hytte Book Weight – This sleek almond-shaped book weight is so helpful to keep a cookbook open instead of constantly flipping pages with flour-covered hands, and is chic enough to leave out on a desk when not in use. 

Budd unisex nightshirt 

Monogrammed pillows with navy trim from London & Avalon  

Mokkamaster drip coffee maker – Impossible to brew a bad cup from this

Fornasetti Candle

Gohar World Host Rubber Gloves – Suddenly being on dish duty doesn’t sound so bad!

Ginori 1735 trinket dish

Sharland England rattan tray – Perfect to serve cocktails in the backyard or breakfast in bed

Bedside carafe and glass set handblown in Murano, Italy.  

“Words for the Table” French embroidered napkins

Glass ice bucket from Simon Pearce – A classic

G. McGee Towel – Super clever beach towels with chess and backgammon boards designed into them 

JAPANOPHILE
Came back from Japan and can’t stop talking about the konbini egg sandwiches and Shinkansen bento boxes  

Woven bamboo tea strainer – Arguably not as functional as a finer mesh strainer, but we just love the look of this old-school bamboo one. 

45 R bandana – Handiest headband, neck scarf, mouchoir

Ikebana kenzan – Throw out that soggy green foam and use this sleek kenzan for flower arranging

White and navy dot Tenugui – A traditional hand-dyed tengui that can be used as a kerchief, tea towel, or even as gift wrap

Mini straw broom – Crafted with sturdy bristles that are gentle enough for crumbs and dust, this mini broom makes the chore of sweeping slightly more enjoyable. 

Japanese incense

Wasabi Salt – For a hit of salt, spice, and umami all in one

Garden Scissors – Delicate scissors for delicate flower pruning 

Hand soap – A gentle, unscented hand soap that we’d buy just for the packaging

Japanese scrub brush 

Junpei Kawaguchi rattan baskets – Handbraided baskets that are more like functional sculptures 

Tamanohada fish soap – Soap on a rope in the shape of the Tai fish, a symbol of good fortune in Japanese culture

Matcha tea ceremony set – So your matcha-loving friend can learn to DIY 

Kintsugi repair kit – Turn that broken dish or mug into a soulful wabi-sabi object

Ikebana: The Art & Beauty of Flower Arranging by Frédéric Gerard. Skills!

Japanese snack subscription box – A mixed bag of 20+ candies, snacks, and teas to fill the Japanese 7-11 shaped hole in their heart

Japanese Pickle Stone

Snow Peak Coffee bean grinder – Japanese-designed hand powered coffee grinder that can be used camping or in your own kitchen

Kim Pan-ki Comb Pattern Celadon Lidded Mug

DOG PARENT 
Can’t leave home without their furry friends

 Dagne Dover Pet Carrier – Ticks all the boxes—folds down flat for easy storage, has a trolley strap, and a cozy interior bed that you can remove and use as a dog bed when you arrive at your destination.

A custom dog painting by our lovely friend and London-based artist Sophie Brinson, who painted Yolo’s mascot, Prune, last year! (She takes commissions by DM!)

Hay Travel Blanket – Honestly, all of the Hay pet accessories are great 

Tuft and Paw Porto Carrier – They say it’s for cats, but it works for a dog up to 30 lbs. It has a mat that opens out so it feels like a cave with an opening. Plus, there’s a trolley strap! 

Astier de Villatte chien bowls – Handmade in Paris, bien sûr!

Celine dog bag holder – Bathroom breaks have never looked so good

Ware of the Dog Crochet Squeaky Toy – Adorable and a fair-trade product made by craftswomen in Nepal

Car seat + travel bed – Perfect duo for road trips

Oscar de la Renta dog bow – Ok, yes it’s $200, but at least it benefits a rescue group

This Barbour fair isle sweater comes with a matching hat for the owner

Aesop dog shampoo – Just because. 

This dog bed from Airelles Le Grand Contrôle at Versailles, because your pet should be treated like royalty. 

Fern green rope leash – Made of marine-grade cotton rope with an adjustable design that you can loop around your waist or turn into a shorter handle 

Loaf’s incredibly chic dog bed – Cute and functional—all the covers are fully removable so you can throw them in the wash 

Gucci heart dog charm – Jewelry for dogs, why didn’t we think of this sooner?

Hermes dog brush – Because they deserve nothing but the best!

Perfect dog-walking cross body which holds poop sacks, a phone, and a pair of glasses! 

The Mark Hotel’s pooch provisions include Prune’s favorite, The Mark Dog Kit. 

Bonus! STOCKING STUFFERS

A 12-in-1 kitchen tool is really all you need to cook at your weekend rental

Spice passport – The size of a real passport, only instead of stamps it’s full of single-origin spices from small farms around the world. 

Beverly Hills Hotel bottle opener – Under $20!

Egyptian Magic Mini Skin Cream – Our favorite, to go.

Falke Socks – Super breathable socks perfect for logging 20,000 steps exploring a city 

Officine Universelle Buly Personalised Lip Balm – Who wouldn’t want that?!

Trudon The Night-Light Candle 

Maison Louis Marie Mini Perfume Oils

Fortnum & Mason Mint Chocolates – Individually wrapped after-dinner chocolates made in Tuscany with Italian peppermint

Nécessaire The Body Essentials Mini – Probably the chicest travel sized toiletries

Smythson Weekly Planner – Our North Star planner that we buy year after year 

Hedgehog table brush – A charming tool for sweeping up crumbs, made with beechwood and horsehair in Germany

French Hair Pin – Move over claw clips!

Gold Stork Scissors – Italian embroidery scissors that have been made in the same style for over 150 years

Wooden herb stripper – Run mint branches through this to strip the leaves quickly when mojitos are in order and time is of the essence

Curaprox Travel Toothbrush Set 

Terracotta bread warmer – Embrace your inner French innkeeper at breakfast and keep croissants warm for hours

Malachite place cards – Malachite is the traveler’s stone, so even if you’re hosting at home you can surround yourself with good travel juju.

The post YOLO’s 2025 Gift Guide appeared first on Yolo Journal.

Paris is by no means short on hotels, and the character of each quartier can completely shape your stay—whether you’re cosplaying Gigi on the Left Bank with a dose of Belle Époque glamour, or channeling Gene Kelly in Montmartre in a perfect hôtel particulier. While the plush comforts of a gilded palace hotel—marble tubs, cloud-like beds, and a perfect martini in the bar—are a fantasy we love to indulge, it’s the neighborhood spots that draw us back. The hotels anchored to their surroundings, where design reflects a sense of place and the staff seem like locals who just happen to have great taste—like the warm wood and Japanese details at Hotel Hana in Little Tokyo, the sexy, velvet-draped cool of Le Pigalle, or the low-lit charm of Château d’Eau in Strasbourg-Saint-Denis that feels like a ‘70s film set in the best way. Our hotels list spans (nearly) every arrondissement, with a Paris for every mood and traveler—which will only make you want to return and discover a new address to fall for. 

P.S. We’ve also highlighted more affordable hotels with a CM (for “Costa Meno”—our code for under €350 a night!). 

1st Arrondissement 

Encompassing the Louvre and the Tuileries, the Palais Royal, Rue Saint Honoré, and of course Place Vendôme, the 1st is all about marquee sights wrapped in Parisian elegance—while being a straight shot by foot or metro to cooler areas like Le Marais and the 10th. 

Château Voltaire – A cool contrast of 17th-century bones and lighthearted interiors by Parisian design studio Festen.

Maison Armance – This 20-room former home of Stendhal feels more like a pied-a-terre than a hotel. The property is also home to a French bulldog named Filou, who kids adore. (Read our Guest Book here.) (CM)

The Ritz Paris – The lavish former haunt of the likes of Coco Chanel and Marcel Proust on Place Vendôme, it’s also home to the old-school charmer, Bar Hemingway. 

The post ​​Our Paris Hotels List appeared first on Yolo Journal.

Stylist and editor Irene Kim writes one of our favorite fashion Substacks, In Moda Veritas, sharing her unfussy yet elevated approach to style. Originally from Canada, her family realized it was “now or never” to follow their dream of moving from Toronto to Paris, and finally made the leap this summer after a year of sorting out visas, schools, bank accounts, and a tangle of French bureaucracy. The pay-off has been a slower pace, culture woven into the everyday, and the ease of traveling throughout Europe. Read on for all the details of their move—including the logistics of getting her incredible wardrobe across an ocean—and how you can do it, too.

What inspired your move to Paris?  

It was a vibe I picked up the very first time I visited over 20 years ago. Paris is romanticized for a lot of things, but what really drew me in was the general mood and emotional temperature of the people. There’s a reserve here. People are slower to warm, but there’s also a real value placed on conversation and debate. That slower, more thoughtful social energy just felt right to me. Of course, there were other things that made living here appealing. Culture in all its forms is woven into everyday life. Travel is easier and more accessible than from Toronto. Overall, Paris had just the right mix of what I was looking for in a city I wanted to live in.

That was 20 years ago, and while I’d visited Paris and France many times since, I finally made the move from Toronto in July 2025 with my husband and two sons. I still appreciate all of the things that initially drew me in, but now there’s the added layer of wanting to experience this together, as a family. It helps that we all speak varying levels of French already.

What was that process like as a Canadian? Did you work with a person/service in France or navigate it all on your own? Could you share a bit about the visa process?

We contacted a lawyer over a year before our intended move date so we could get a clear idea of what entry options were available to us. I’d strongly recommend speaking to a French immigration lawyer early on—even if it’s just a one-hour consultation—to get an accurate picture of your visa options. You don’t necessarily need someone to handle your entire application, but having a professional walk you through the process can save a lot of time and stress. There’s so much conflicting information floating around online, especially in Facebook groups, and it’s easy to get led in the wrong direction. For us, the VLS-TS (long-stay visa) made the most sense. It’s renewable each year for up to five years, and the checklist for our specific visa type is fairly straightforward. We just worked through it one step at a time. 

Looking back, you could probably get it all done in three months if you really had to. But if you can, I’d give yourself at least a year—not just to deal with paperwork, but to emotionally and physically prepare. That includes things like renting or selling your home, downsizing or storing your belongings, sorting out school or work logistics, getting your finances in order, and saying your goodbyes.

Did you learn about any surprising visa hacks/loopholes worth sharing?

Not applicable to us, but I learned that when applying for a VISA, not to write “moving to be with a boyfriend/girlfriend.” Apparently French authorities are well aware of how often those situations don’t last!  

What about the nitty-gritty stuff—enrolling your kids in school, bank accounts, phone service—did you sort that out before you left, or once you were in Paris? What about housing?

I found a few aspects of the relocation process to be tricky because they created these frustrating chicken-and-egg situations.

First, we could only apply for our visa three months before our intended entry into France. That means we could spend a year getting our house ready to rent/sell, research and pay for schools, etc… only to have our visa denied. That uncertainty definitely weighed on me. Again, this is where speaking with an immigration lawyer is really helpful to give you a realistic assessment of your chances and help you prepare a stronger application.

For our visa, we needed to show proof of accommodation, but getting a lease in France is notoriously difficult if you’re coming from abroad. Most landlords require a French guarantor and proof of income that’s 3x the rent. On top of that, Paris rentals tend to hit the market only about a month before the move-in date, which makes it tough to line up a lease before you submit your visa application. 

To help us through this gauntlet, we contacted real estate agents early, like in August 2024. They all laughed and told me to call back in May 2025. Hoping I could sort out our rental before we submitted our visa application, I tried again in March and we were very lucky to secure our place in April for a mid-July move-in. Our back-up plan was to stay with friends who were willing to sign a declaration stating we’d be living with them, which is allowed under our visa. Another common workaround is to book an Airbnb for three months and look for long-term housing once you’re here. Another chicken-and-egg: I needed to show my signed lease to open a bank account and get a phone number, which I did within the first days I arrived. I’m not sure what you would do if you don’t have your lease sorted out yet.

Figuring out schooling took up most of my time. Our sons were entering Grades 4 and 6 and I ideally wanted them to be in the same school and one that was primarily French. In the Paris public system, grade 6 is collège (middle school) which is separate from primary school, so that motivated us to find a school that would take both. We’ve always been in the public school system in Toronto, so applying for private and semi-private schools was way more time-consuming than I expected. Most of the schools we applied to were 100% French, which meant I needed to get all the boys’ report cards and documents translated at a significant cost. Application deadlines were in fall 2024 for the 2025-26 school year, so the research had to happen well before finding housing or applying for your visa. If you don’t go the public school route, your choice of school will probably determine the area you’ll want to live in.

Is there anything you wish you knew before you made the move?

Other than knowing more French, no, not really. For the big pillars, we were as prepared as we could be. For the rest of it, the fun is in figuring it out as you go.

How is your French? Have you found any helpful resources or tricks to practice?

My French is OK. I learned French throughout school and have done Alliance Francaise on-and-off. Because I studied French academically, my reading and writing is decent, but my spoken French—which never gets practice—is pretty rusty. Having grown up in New Brunswick, my husband is fairly fluent. Did you know that New Brunswick is the only official bilingual province in Canada? It’s not Quebec! My kids were in French immersion in Toronto, so at least they have a base. I’m in a conversation group and when things settle down, I’ll begin Alliance Francaise again.

As a stylist you have an amazing (and presumably large) wardrobe, how did you manage to move all of that across an ocean? 

Oh man, I wrote two newsletters about this (Part one and two).

Part of moving from Toronto to Paris is accepting that people live more densely and in smaller spaces. Our Paris apartment is 1/3 the size of our Toronto home and we have no yard here. Early on, I foolishly thought I’d be taking my entire wardrobe, reasoning that clothes are my job, so of course I needed to take it all! In the end, I ended up giving away or consigning 75% of my wardrobe. I decided that this was a rare opportunity to only keep what I loved without qualification, even if it left a “gap” in my closet. It didn’t matter if I “needed” it and didn’t have something similar in cut, color, or utility. Even then, my wardrobe (including shoes, coats, accessories) took up 10 of these bags. We moved with 16 checked-in blue bags, four carry-ons and four personal items.

Beyond your wardrobe—did you bring furniture/art/books, or start fresh?

We didn’t bring any furniture, because we moved into a fully furnished home that has all the basics, and at the same time, we rented out our Toronto home. We left all our art, books, etc… for our tenants. By comparison, our Paris apartment feels far from lived-in, and I’m having a hard time deciding what to invest in when we’re not sure how long we’re staying (we’re taking it one year at a time!). We brought probably one suitcase worth of sentimental items like our wedding photo, quilts made by grandma, a few of the boys’ favorite books and toys.

Has the move influenced your work as a stylist? Has Paris changed how you dress or the way you approach your projects?

I decided when I moved here that I would continue with my Substack, In Moda Veritas, but scale back on my style consulting until the new year. I want and need the time just to observe and absorb all that is new around me, while also taking the extra time to settle in my family. Come the new year, I’m curious to see how being here will influence my work going forward.

It’s only been a couple of months, but unsurprisingly, I’ve been especially attuned to how people dress in Paris. There’s a discernible difference here from style codes I’m used to back home, and from what I see in other fashion capitals like New York, London, and Tokyo. What immediately stood out is that what’s considered “casual” here feels more elevated than at home. My wardrobe goes from sweatpants to skirts with very little in between, and my Tibi Calder joggers were my faithful go-tos for just about everything. In North America, loungewear has been fully absorbed into the style lexicon, but in Paris, sweatpants tend to remain in the domain of gyms and homes. It’s not that people are in heels and fancy ensembles at 9am; in fact, sneakers are absolutely the norm here. Casual looks different, and I’ve had to invest in some everyday jeans and bottoms.

Any surprising things you’ve learned about culture/life in France?

There’s this impression in North America that the French (and Italians) know how to enjoy life with their morning cappuccinos, leisurely lunches and many vacation days. Vacation is definitely sacred here, but my impression is that the French work long and hard hours. The grass isn’t always greener!

It’s only been a few months, but do you have any neighborhood favorites so far? 

To be honest, I’ve barely left the neighborhood! There’s so much involved in settling in the family, getting your apartment together, developing routines….

It’s been an adjustment for the boys especially to live in an apartment and be mindful of how much noise they’re making. We’ve already gotten complaints from the neighbors! We’re trying, but they need to get their energy out. Expansive green space is hard to come by in Paris, so I love living near Bois du Boulogne and being able to go there a few times a week.

I love the fish markets! I seem to come across them all over the city, and every time I do, it’s settled, that’s our dinner for the night.

I love that I can walk out my door and I have five grocery stores, five cafés, and 15 restaurants within 100m. We lived pretty centrally in Toronto and the nearest anything was a 10-minute walk. 

What’s on your personal Paris bucket list for the next year?

I have a long list relating to the shops I want to visit. There are so many brands here and I want to see as much as I can. All the secondhand shops! Les Puces de Saint Ouen at least once a month. The Singer exhibition at Musée d’Orsay. And just exploring and discovering things with my family.

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DAY ONE

Our first night was spent at the very special 50-room boutique hotel Anna and Bel in Fishtown, the artsy/foodie hipster neighborhood just northeast of the center of town. The beautifully renovated 18th-century former ladies home has three stories with New Orleans-style cast-iron balconies surrounding an interior courtyard with a heated outdoor pool. Without ever seeming on the nose, the mood here is like a private 1930s club, but with a feminine edge. Dusky jewel-like tones of ochre, claret, grey and deep greens in velvets and linens contrast with the light oak finish of the floors and original central staircase. A curated art collection throughout the space contributes to the sense of something special and personal, lending each room its own story. There is a strong throughline of the considered here; rooms are thoughtfully equipped with yoga mats, hidden kitchenettes with everything one could wish for (with more available on every floor in an open necessities closet, which also houses a helpful filtered water spout for refills), Frette bedding and Le Labo amenities. Downstairs is their Sardinian- and Corscian-inspired restaurant Bastia, run by chef Tyler Akin and already a Philly favorite. We especially loved the adjoining cocktail lounge, Caletta, which spills out into the courtyard in warmer months.

For lunch we dropped into the much-loved Middle Child Clubhouse, a casual luncheonette-style spot under an elevated track with classics like reubens and burgers with a little irreverence and style thrown in. My favorite was an unexpectedly elegant latke hashbrown with a fresh green dill cream sauce.Thanks to a great tip from Aperture Executive Director Sarah Meister, we ventured over to the Tilt Institute, a gallery-cum-printing space for photography and print making, which serves as not only a world-class exhibition space, but also as a resource for artist production and community. Currently on view is Pennsylvania-based artist Shikeith’s People Who Die Bad Don’t Stay in the Ground, a stunning show of large-scale photographs in saturated dark tones. Evoking the ongoing tension and loops between past and present, they are both beautiful and haunting. Tilt is one of a few gallery and artist spaces in the Crane Arts Building, and it’s worth it to explore some of the other spaces while you’re there. Another gallery worth a visit is Fleischer/Ollman, a long-standing contemporary art space with a fascinating selection of folk and self-taught artists.

After depositing our day’s treasures and availing ourselves of a deeply restful disco nap in the room, we met friends for drinks at Calleta, and continued on to Jaffa, a fantastic oyster bar and restaurant with Middle Eastern flair and housed in an iconic 19th-century firehouse. Other spots to try in Fishtown are Thai favorite Kalaya, Lebanese Suraya, and Mexican LMNO.

DAY TWO 

For my second day, I moved over to the Four Seasons, which is a little bit like floating on top of the world as you zip up 60 floors to reception, overlooking the entire city of brotherly love at the dizzying and majestic perch of 1,121 feet. Given its location, just a short ten-minute walk or an easy hop into one of the chauffeured Range Rovers available to guests, it is the perfect home base for a day with the Calder, Barnes, Rodin and Philadelphia Art Museum, all of which are adjacent to one another. The rooms are serene and classic, which grounds the immensity of the view. After a day spent covering the truly deep bench of art in this city, it’s the soft cocoon you crave. I would also highly recommend saving time to lounge by the infinity pool on the 57th floor, and slather on samples from their spa area. In addition to a knockout Jean-Georges Vongerichten dining area on the 60th floor, Philadelphia chef Greg Vernick anchors the ground floor with his always-packed and delectable Vernick Fish.

An admission: I always liked them, enjoyed being in them, smelling the roses, etc, but I was never INTO gardens. My in-laws build international travel around visiting famous gardens. That is being into them. All of that changed radically when I was first exposed to Dutch garden designer Piet Oudolf’s work in the early 2000s. His sculptural approach to perennials throughout the seasons—that the colors and stalks of winter aren’t simply dormant and dead, but beautiful themselves—was electrifying. As exemplified in maturity at the High Line in New York City and his own wondrous garden at Hummelo, organic swaths move through space, soften architecture, and keep us engaged throughout the year with changing narratives of shape and tone. It made sense, then, that the Calder Foundation would choose to work with Oudolf to activate the landscape around the Herzog & de Meuron-designed structure housing a rotating array of pieces at the new Calder Gardens. There’s harmony to all the parts: the building, a long sliver of blurred and shimmering reflective metal slices across the two-acre space; the Calder pieces, angular, stoic and musical are in constant shadow play with walls and themselves; and then the garden, still not at full maturity, but already in relation to the building and the art with its alternating zones of softness and spiked buds. They all communicate something moving to the visitor; reflection and play. Peace and close inspection. The building does the clever trick of unfurling into ever greater and unexpected space as you descend and allows for a sort of intimate discovery of the work; for example, one piece, a delicate and smaller mobile in modest unpainted metal, is only viewable through a window tucked into an organic modern tunnel-like stairwell. It might not be out of place on the planet Tatooine, and I mean that in the very best way.

Since moving to its exquisite Tod Williams and Billie Tsien-designed modernist home in 2012, the art collection of the Barnes Foundation is still hung salon style, stacked up and across the walls and very much sans wall text, by intent and decree of Barnes himself and enshrined in ongoing governing rules. To my mind, it’s the ideal way to experience this collection of some of the best Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and Modernist (with a few Middle Ages and Renaissance thrown in) work in the world. To wander through and discover a piece because it gave you pause, not because it has been stamped a major work of art you must photograph and catalogue as an experience. Its effect? The viewer moves through the rooms with a personal lens and lives much more in their own unmediated experience of things like light, form, line and figure. Cezanne and Bosch, centuries apart, share a wall with decorative iron work. It is an exercise in contemplation. Currently showing through the end of February, 2026, is a wonderful Henri Rousseau exhibit also well worth the visit.

At the top of the cluster of museums lies the Philadelphia Art Museum (note: same place, new name for the Philadelphia Museum of Art, due to a recent, locally controversial rebrand), instantly recognizable to all who remember Rocky bounding up its steps. Like the Barnes, masterpieces of art history are all here —Van Gogh’s Sunflowers, Eakins’ Gross Clinic, Rubens, Cézanne, Turner and more—and without tourists five rows deep with their phones outstretched, as we so often encounter in other cities’ great museums. Also known for its extensive Duchamp collection, the museum is collaborating with MoMA in New York for the first major retrospective of the artist’s work in over fifty years. 

A little secret I picked up was that while the celebrated Vernick Fish at the Four Seasons is a hard dinner reservation to snag, it is open for lunch and a perfect break between viewings, especially if traveling with someone who gets museum legs and requires a crisp muscadet with their yellowtail crudo and scallop and ricotta cavatelli!

After lunch, a quick zip across the bridge brought us to the Institute of Contemporary Art (within the U Penn complex), where we caught a small but powerful show of Jamaican Abstract artist Mavis Pusey, whose drawings I particularly liked.

From there to the Fabric Workshop and Museum, where I had one of those great where have you been all my life moments discovering the fantastic world of the artist Moki Cherry in the show Living Temple. Moki, the Swedish-born mother of singer Neneh Cherry and wife of jazz great Don Cherry, was the true embodiment of the concept of the Gesamtkunstwerk (total work of art). She made everything from textiles to set design at the Apollo, to jazz album covers and classroom wall hangings for children. I left moved by the reminder that we should all be making and supporting art in our lives, whether we identify as artists or not. 

On my way to meet a friend at Rittenhouse Square, which is not far from the Fabric Museum, I popped into The Print Center, a two story non-profit art gallery and print workshop. We especially liked the work of Iranian-American artist Nazanin Noroozi and a photography installation from Will Harris. In the back is a print shop with a range of photographs and prints for flipping through and purchase, including a series that caught my eye of antique photographs from 19th-century Egypt.

Rittenhouse Square has its stars: French bistro Parc and the brand new Borromini are both worth a visit, but I especially loved the gem my friend claims as her special spot (and also from the Starr group), The Dandelion. Occupying two bustling floors, one with a cozy fireplace, it has the feel of an elevated pub, with updated takes on dishes like Welsh rarebit, devilled eggs, and fish and chips. 

While I covered much ground, I left with a foodie wishlist for  my next visit, most notably the newly opened Mexican, La Jefa, as well as Dance Robot, a recently launched Japanese diner by the famed duo behind Royal Sushi & Izakaya, Jesse Ito and Justin Bacharach. It was a whirlwind, but one that I hope to repeat, especially now that I know that it’s possibly faster than moving through New York City on UN General Assembly days. Maybe next time I’ll even try a cheesesteak and an Eagles game!

Good to know: The Barnes and the Calder offer tickets for dated and timed entry only, and are sold out sometimes weeks and months before, so purchase them as far ahead as possible.The food scene is serious, and the people of Philadelphia are serious about it, so make reservations in advance for dinners especially.  

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When I was first in touch with writer and globetrotter Natasha Nyanin a few weeks ago, I asked if she had a recent or upcoming trip that she’d like to base her responses on. She replied, “How about packing for an 8-week trip that went from Venice to Cortina to Sardinia to the Amalfi Coast to Milan to Rome to Paris to Champagne to Marrakech and to London?” Ummm ya, that will do! It’s always impressive to hear how people manage to pack for these long, multi-leg trips and look fabulous while maneuvering through airports, ferry terminals and train stations with a caravan of luggage. Natasha’s approach is equally whimsy and practical (albeit maximalist) and she convinced me that maybe I should start traveling with stationery and wax seal stamps.

What’s your go-to luggage and why?  

Before setting off to Venice, I knew packing for such an adventure would be, in and of itself, a journey. Why? Because Venice was to be only the first leg of a multilimbic sojourn across Europe (I’d be flying back to NYC from Heathrow after making numerous stops across the continent and North Africa), so packing required a deft balance of strategy and whimsy. Thankfully, I was afforded two 70lb checked bags on both my United flights: a relief!

I am an ardent believer that one should aspire to be whatever kind of packer that brings them joy, so I am not here to proselytize for packing one way or the other. That being said, I personally find it stressful to limit myself when packing, as getting dressed is an intuitive exercise calibrated by whimsical factors that I cannot predict far in advance, such as what colors might reflect my mood that day. So, as an unabashed, card-carrying member of the overpackers club, I travel with multiple checked pieces (especially on an extended trip, which is my preferred way to travel), a roll-aboard carry-on and a duffle weekender.

For my checked bags, I have found that luggage with a polycarbonate hard shell works best for my needs. I love my Floyd Check-in for its distinctive red wheels, which make it easy to spot coming down the carousel (and the magnetic closure of the case is a plus, but only if I do not have to overstuff the luggage). I am currently most enjoying my TUMI Extended Trip Packing Case in black for its durability, lightness and capaciousness, allowing me to pack even more while staying within the confines of airline allowances.

When it comes to cabin bags, I am in a rather committed relationship with the Globe-Trotter Centenary trolley, which I have in black with gold hardware but I adored the iteration I had before (which was sadly stolen somewhere at CDG). It’s a two-wheeled (ever the form over function girl here) Japanese urushi lacquered piece from their now-discontinued Orient collection (bring it back, Globe-Trotter!). I plop my camel leather Loewe duffle atop the Globe-Trotter and that’s how you’ll almost always see me rolling through the airport.

How do you approach the basics?  

Asking me to plan outfits in advance is akin to asking a fish to ride a bicycle: I’m simply not wired that way, unless there’s a particular event I’m planning for (a wedding or an invitation to the opera, say), in which case I’d likely have something specifically picked out and packed. I typically go through my closet and make a pile of “take with” and “maybes” which I whittle down as I pack. Making the piles on my bed helps me to visualize what I am packing so that I don’t take too many multiples of a similar thing.  

In general, I also keep a general packing list in my Notes app on my phone that I refer to each time I have to pack so I am sure not to leave any of the necessities like my laptop charger, steamer, socks, scarves etc. 

For this specific trip, since I was planning a black-tie celebratory event in Venice for my 40th birthday, the basics included a couple of gowns and other special occasion pieces, which I packed in a bridal garment bag that I carried on. 

Are you a roller or a folder?

I used to be a roller until working stays at St. Regis Venice and St. Regis Rome afforded me access to their butler service (they will pack for you!) and let me tell you, watching the maestri at work, I now am a believer in the flat fold. I was amazed and how they were able to fit all my suits so pristinely into my suitcase. And not only did they manage that, they even slipped a pair of St. Regis branded house slippers and personalized pajamas into the case!

Any other packing tricks or hero items? 

I always pack a number of silk kaftans (Moroccan djellebas) that I designed and had made by Aya’s Marrakech. They are lightweight, roomy, simple, and work well for a casual moment, but pack enough visual intrigue to be dressed up for dinner.

What’s your shoe strategy? 

For a trip like this that straddles the seasons and where I’ll be walking incessantly, I focus on packing flats. I have a go-to pair of flat Loewe mules that have been my travel companion for the last three or so years. I also packed one pair of flat boots for when the weather begins to dip. In this case, a pair from Gabriela Hearst that I got in 2021, when I was going on my first safari with Elewana and Asalia in Kenya and Tanzania, and which have been treating me kindly ever since. Because there were and will invariably be some formal events during my trip, I pack 1-3 pairs of heels, focusing on pairs that can work as a neutral. I also like to pack a pair of house slippers for lounging. A pair of red leather babouches I bought in the souks in Marrakech a million years ago are still doing that heavy lifting to this day.

How do you think about accessories?

I am not much of an accessory person and, by my standards at least, I keep them to a minimum. When it comes to jewellery, I stick to a uniform: two Hermès enamel bracelets that I stack, and a two-finger 18k gold ring made for me by New York’s Charlton & Lola are items I slip on daily, as a ritual. Add to this one pair of statement earrings packed into my carry-on for special occasions and you’ve got the whole formula. I used to carry my beloved large Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff on all my trips, but it disappeared in that carry-on that was stolen and my dream is to eventually replace it and add to it the Bone Cuff ring.

I literally own only two handbags—one old-school Celine box bag in blue, and a red classic Ferragamo top handle bag. They travel with me everywhere, along with silk scarves that I like to tie on my handbags for a change of vibe. I love sunglasses so I tend to pack a number of alternative pairs, but when I want to stick to one, it would be a black oversized pair like these Saint Laurent Kate SL214.

Do you have a great travel hat? 

I have a great hat! Is it a great travel hat? Probably not. It’s wholly impractical with its extra-wide brim and being wrought from fragile Filipino raffia. But it’s great for the beach and to add a touch of something extra to so many looks. My technique for carrying it is simple—the hat has an elastic band, so I just slip the band over the telescoping handle of my carryon suitcase and the hat rides hands-free. The piece was made by Australian milliner Stephanie Spencer (who does have more practical hats in her oeuvre).

What’s always in your dopp kit/toiletry bag/pharmacy kit? 

Before I get to what’s in the dopp kit, let me talk about my dopp kit itself, which is one of those rare genius pieces that has revolutionised my travel toiletry experience. This is NOT hyperbole. I introduced a friend to the brand and she wouldn’t stop talking about it for 2 weeks. I am talking about the Parallelle toiletry bags that I have in all three sizes.

These kits allow you to stand your products up in them so your toiletries are each neatly nested for easy identification. The sides of the bags fold down when unzipped so you can easily access the array of things. This means I do not have to empty the bag to find items and so is invaluable to multi-leg trips where I have to switch hotels every couple of nights. I use the smallest one as my makeup bag, where I keep my Mac concealer, Lancôme Tient Idole Ultra Wear Foundation, a trio of brushes, Fenty Lip Paint in the shade Uncensored, The Lip Bar Nonstop Liquid Matte lipstick in Bawse Lady,  and Dior Lip Glow Oil.

The medium bag (the perfect size) is the home for toiletries under 100ml. In it lives my array of Surya by Martha Ayurvedic skincare (The Balancing Face Oil, Calming Lip Therapy lip balm, and the impeccable Balancing Collagen Cream), as well as their Kansa face wand, a tool I have come to cherish. I also keep Tata Harper’s Water-Lock Moisturiser, some decanted Shea oil from R&R Skincare, and Supergoop Glowstick sunscreen in the bag. Because my Suri electric toothbrush comes with a carrying case that doubles as a charging case, I don’t have to stuff it into my dopp kit, which is a relief both for space and hygiene reasons.

The largest bag houses my larger toiletries that go into my checked luggage. In there you’ll find a bottle of MARA Algae Cleansing Oil, Surya by Martha Rose Petal body oil, Tatcha The Rice Polish (for exfoliation days) and a tub of Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask.

Pharmaceutically I make sure that besides my prescriptions I have an antihistamine (Zyrtec), Tylenol, and very importantly, an antiseptic throat spray, as it is easy to pick up little viral or bacterial infections on long trips where exhaustion weakens the immune system. 

On a plane, what essentials does your carry-on bag always contain? 

I always carry at least two books: one of poetry and one that is some form of prose, along with a journal and my Pineider fountain pen. I also keep stationery in my carry-on as I like to write letters on the road, especially notes of gratitude to people I may encounter who enrich my experience. Besides my Capri writing paper from Pineider, I even have my wax and stamp with me for sealing envelopes as though I were Jane Eyre, because that’s how committed I am to the fullness of experience or ridiculousness (label it as you will).

You’ll always find a couple of  bottles of perfume in my carry-on. If I’m taking only two, these days it’s likely Fredric Malle’s Portrait of a Lady and the intoxicatingly spicy Metamorphic by Kingdom of Scotland in collaboration with near-perfect hotel The Balmoral in Edinburgh.

And most importantly, I always fold a pair of silk pajamas into my carry-on as the sleep experience should not be compromised no matter where it’s happening.

Any wisdom on traveling with electronics? 

I have a small bag of adapters for various countries and regions that I keep in my carry-on, which includes a car-charger that doubles as a bluetooth connector to listen to music, as sometimes the basic rentals don’t come with those bells and whistles, and good music is essential for a road-trip.

My Macbook Air is kept in a brown leather case I found in Mumbai from the Indian brand Nappa Dori. For earphones, I use the Beoplay Ex from Bang & Olufsen (a red pair from their Ferrari collaboration), but have my eye on their over-ear Beoplay H100, which delivers such crisp sound. 

Do you have a travel uniform?  

There was a time when I always travelled in a suit. I still like to do so, but have expanded that uniform to include any kind of smart trouser and shirt along with a MaxMara trench coat in tow.

Any other hacks?

The importance of a good travel steamer cannot be overstated. I’ve gone through several of them and done copious amounts of research before settling on these two: Steam One for Europe and other areas operating at 220V, and this Electrolux that I discovered while staying at The Madrona near San Francisco for US domestic travel and other 110-120V areas.

In West Africa (I am from Ghana), we have these lightweight, foldable, super cheap bags that come in a multiplicity of sizes that we call Ghana Must Go bags, and I became accustomed to traveling with one folded up in my suitcase (for the eventuality of acquiring a bunch of things on the road and thus needing an extra bag for the return). In lieu of the Ghana Must Go bag, it’s not a bad idea to pack something like this. It weighs nothing, takes up no space, but will rescue you if you find yourself needing to pack an extra bag for the return trip.

For eight weeks on the road, you must be traveling with more than one bag. Do you have any tricks for managing it all? 

When travelling with more than one suitcase, I have a system for getting them around. If an airport trolley is easily accessible, then sure, I’ll use the trolley. An airport employee at Newark once saw me stacking my luggage on the cart and came over to congratulate me saying “I know you must not be from here, the way you did that so expertly. Are you African?” It’s true, Africans are renowned overpackers. Usually though, what I do is place two suitcases back to back, so that their telescoping handles are next to each other, and wheel the pair with one hand (and do the same for a second pair to be wheeled with the other hand). I place my duffle or tote on top of one of the suitcases and might even use one handle of the duffle to yoke to the two suitcase handles together for even easier maneuvering.

I have also used the service Luggage Forward to send luggage unaccompanied with great success when I’ve gone a little wild on craft shopping in Tamegroute, Morocco, and they delivered my ceramics in perfect condition. 

I recently learned that Trentitalia has a door-to-door service for sending luggage ahead if you have a train reservation, and it costs about 20 Euro per bag. Considering how much train travel I do when bouncing around Italy, it is certainly an amenity I intend to take advantage of in the near future.

How do you approach packing for a multi-leg trip with different events and climates?

In this instance, I planned out all of my looks for the special events and packed them in a garment bag. I chose high-heeled shoes that were versatile and would work in multiple situations in order to keep the shoe number to a minimum.

Admittedly, when I was taking advantage of Booking.com’s feature that allows one to book multiple aspects of a trip (flights, accommodation, ground transport) in one go and adding leg after leg to this journey, I was too engrossed in it all, and was not thinking about having to bridge varying climates (Italian summer, French Autumn, Marrakech August heat, London just being, well, London). I solved that by packing layerable pieces such as linen jackets (like a khaki one from Another Tomorrow and a white one from Victoria Beckham x Mango) and two trench coats (a flowy one from The Frankie Shop and a classic tan one from Max Mara) that I could stack on top of each other for the cooler climes.

What’s your laundry strategy for a trip that long? 

For a long trip such as this one, I do laundry either at hotels during the stay that include it as part of the rate such as the charming Su Gologone, where I stayed in Sardinia. While I do not pack anything expressly for doing laundry on the go, I do try to always have a packet of M&S Stain Remover Wipes with me while I travel. They are incredibly effective.

Are there any hero items you found yourself reaching for throughout each leg of this trip?

The ultra-versatile Issey Miyake Madam T scarf/dress is a piece I reach for all the time at home and on the road. It’s this long scarf with a hole in the middle that allows you to tie it in ways for effects ranging from casual to formal. I first fell in love with it when I discovered it at the Pleats Please store in Soho in 2016. It’s a lightweight chameleon that I wear all the time, because I feel so free in it. I draped it like a cloak when a photographer friend suggested a conceptual shoot in a grand Hotel Excelsior Roma that he wanted me to model for; I wore it tied like a piece of origami, along with a tassel belt I had made in the souks of Fez, for long walks in sunny Venice while running errands; and layered with a trench coat over boots for the chillier London days: it saved me so many times that I actually have a children’s book idea inspired by the piece. I own the Madam T in black and red, while the white iteration I once found on eBay was lost in transit by an airline. I’m eyeing the gold version next. 

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Then I heard that Wildland, the conservation organization behind Killiehuntly, had purchased land in Transylvania, and that the King of England had been visiting for decades, restoring houses in tiny villages and taking walks in the Zalan Valley where nobody recognized him. I figured they must be onto something, and I was curious to find out what that was. Fast forward to this fall, I finally planned a trip and convinced a few friends to join me. The week before, I got two apologetic texts saying they couldn’t make it. Maybe the trip was doomed, but the idea had been simmering too long. So I went alone.

Bucharest

On first impression, Bucharest looks kind of like Paris… if it was in the Soviet Union. One moment you’re on a leafy street lined with Beaux-Arts facades and people sitting on bistro chairs outside cafes, the next, you’re staring at a block of brutalist concrete structures that look about as inspiring as an empty spreadsheet. One of the more beautiful buildings was my hotel, The Marmorosch, kitty-cornered between two main streets in the Old Town. The hotel was once the country’s largest bank, and has very cool bones—a grand marble staircase that brings you to reception, a lounge in an atrium with gold-leaf-trimmed columns and stained glass skylight. I thought the rooms fell flat for such a grand building, but it was a perfectly comfortable stay (especially for $250/night) with a gym, spa, and fun subterranean bar in the bank’s former vault that served a mean Negroni. Most importantly the location was perfect, and walking distance to everything I planned to see.

Each morning, I’d go in search of good coffee—some favorite finds were C22, Artichoke Social House, the lobby bar of the Corinthia—then wander to museums, shops, and find myself in the middle of Bucharest’s 566th birthday celebrations. The National History Museum was great, and the Romanian Village Life Museum was maybe the coolest I’ve ever been to—hundreds of peasant settlements and monuments from the 17th to 20th century moved to a 24-acre park from all corners of the country. It really feels like you’ve been transported to another era, surrounded by all sorts of whimsical Seussian wooden homes, churches, and schoolhouses with wells, windmills and gardens weaving throughout. 

Beyond the museums, I popped in and out of antique shops with museum-worthy relics—don’t miss Sertar Magic or Circa 1703-3071—and came across an amazing store packed to the gills with fur coats, stoles (many of which had feet still attached), and leather jackets. The shopkeepers looked straight out of I, Tonya, with fanny packs and bleach blonde hair, draped in fur, leather and jeans on an 80 degree afternoon. I seriously considered springing for one of the mink coats, in great condition and only €300 [Romanian Lei is the official currency, though this shop quoted all their prices in Euros], but settled on a leather blazer that would be much easier to pack. 

One morning I met Daniela, the tour guide. Born in Transylvania, she grew up in Bucharest and is now a lawyer who moonlights as a guide when she’s not working on her book about riding the Trans-Siberian Railway. A self-proclaimed history nerd, she started our walk in antiquity and as we paced through the cobblestone streets, we inched our way through the country’s grueling history, detailing all sorts of clashes, conquests and coups that shaped the country to what it is today. The principalities of Wallachia, Transylvania, and Moldavia (which make up modern day Romania) were controlled by a handful of empires throughout their history—the First Bulgarian Empire, the Ottomans, Romans, Hungarians—and were seemingly always fighting off some intruding force to retain autonomy. One person who was especially successful at this was Vlad Dracula, also known as Vlad the Impaler, who ruthlessly killed thousands of his enemies, often impaling victims. If the name sounds familiar, he was the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula, and though the blood sucking was fabricated, vampire folklore runs deep. Daniela weaved in all sorts of legends and stories of vampires and mythical creatures in the forest that I couldn’t tell if she believed or not. 

At one point, she noticed the tiny cross on my necklace and said she wanted to show me the Church of the Stavropoleos Monastery. Since it was Sunday morning, we ended up in the middle of the liturgy. The exquisite church is designed in the ornate Brâncovenesc style, with a dim interior and frescoed ceilings. Byzantine chants reverberated against the walls, and light beamed in through tiny windows at sharp angles. She whispered about the head nuns as if they were celebrities, and taught me the Romanian Orthodox sign of the cross—right to left, using your thumb, pointer and middle fingers pinched together—which distinguishes it from the Catholic or Russian Orthodox versions. Apparently centuries ago, this difference alone could mark you for exile. She assured me the stakes were much lower now.

Afterward we lit candles for the living and the “asleep,” and joined the courtyard where people shared homegrown apples and grapes. At that point I completely forgot I was on a tour, but Daniela had a few more centuries of history she wanted to cover. We ended up spending nearly 6 hours together. She told me about growing up under Ceaușescu, the dictator who commissioned elaborate palaces and some of the world’s largest (and ugliest) buildings, while normal families like hers rationed bread and milk. Despite the hardship, she seemed almost nostalgic for that time, and was a card carrying Communist (literally keeping her grandfather’s membership card tucked inside her lanyard). Before we parted, she gave me a list of things to see in Transylvania, but warned me not to drive by myself like I had planned, since the roads (and the drivers) are known to be a bit rough. I thanked her for the former and shrugged off the latter. 

Brasov, Transylvania

I took the 2.5 hour train to Brasov the next morning to pick up a rental car, except they wouldn’t give it to me without an International Drivers Permit. My meticulously mapped road trip evaporated, but after Daniela’s warning, maybe it was some sort of cosmic redirection. I checked into a small hotel called Casa Wagner on the main square to regroup. Brasov felt a world of a difference from Bucharest with its Gothic and Baroque architecture and pastel merchant house lined streets, surrounded on all sides by thickly forested hills. I spent a day sipping coffee and blueberry juice on the sunny terrace of CH9, browsing craft shops like Inspiratio for ceramics I had planned to source directly from studios, peeking into churches and trying ciorba, a traditional Romanian soup, at Bistro de l’Arte, while live music wafted over from the square down the road. It wasn’t the day I’d planned, but in hindsight, it was nice to shift into a lower gear between the city and my final, much sleepier stop, deeper into Eastern Transylvania.

The next day a very young man who looked like he might have gotten his driver’s license that morning picked me up from Brasov and we started towards The King’s Retreat, the King of England’s aptly named guesthouse in the Zalán Valley. We left Brasov behind and drove through endless fields of wheat and scorched sunflowers, and about an hour later peeled onto a gravel road and began climbing up into the hills. As we climbed up, the tree canopy above us was so thick that at points it felt like we were underwater. Eventually we came across a clearing where two yoked horses munched on the grass, and in the distance I saw an old barn and a few cottages. Not another person in sight. He grabbed my suitcase and we scrambled up the hill to a room with a wide open door and dropped my bags. I thanked him with a “multumsec,” and he was off. 

Zalán Valley, Transylvania

My room was incredible: creaky wooden floors and a black beamed ceiling, hand embroidered lace curtains, and a traditional Transylvanian double-decker twin bed so high off the ground I had to run and launch myself onto it. Nothing really matched—an oriental tapestry hung above a striped rug next to a sun-faded floral upholstered sofa—but it all worked. Every item was antique, sourced from Transylvania, and the layering of it all created that amazing texture that so many places try to replicate but can’t.

I poked my head into a cerulean building that seemed to be the main house. A smiley woman with plump, rosy cheeks appeared and I greeted her with a “buna ziua,” which was about the extent of how we could communicate, as she didn’t speak Romanian, but a Hungarian dialect common in this part of Transylvania. She handed me a piece of paper to write my name and phone number on, and a shot of room temperature palinka for my efforts.

Dinner wasn’t until seven, so I read in the garden, with the soundtrack of cowbells, cicadas and birdsong as the scent of early autumn smoke wafted over from the next valley. Just before dinner, I stepped outside the gate for a walk and met a flushed British man who asked breathlessly, “King’s House?” He had driven not from Bucharest, but nearly 11 hours from Budapest, which made sense in the sort of way you don’t question in places like this. I pointed him uphill and started down the dusty gravel road in my unsensible J.Crew loafers. The entire road had maybe a dozen houses, each with small farm plots, and I saw far more horses than cars. I made eye contact and waved to a stoic farmer through the slats of his wooden fence, who quickly turned back to supervise his sheep as they chowed on freshly scythed grass. If he told me he was 400 years old, I wouldn’t have doubted it.

That night at the communal dinner table over more ciorba and palinka, I met a jovial German man who comes by himself for a week every year and was staying in the room next to mine, the British man from earlier, and his two Aussie friends who were staying in the cottages just down the hill. I asked the German all about his visits to this area and if he believed in vampires—which he laughed off. I didn’t tell him I threw some garlic from the grocery store in Brasov in my bag for good measure.

We all retired to our rooms and I slept soundly in my quirky bed with the fresh air streaming in through the leaky single-paned windows. Around 3AM, I woke to someone or something walking up and down the warped wooden deck and rustling with the door next to mine. What was at the door—a person? Animal? Were vampires out of the question? Whatever it was kept coming back. Suddenly I realized my go-with-the-flow plan had left out one crucial element—an exit strategy. There was nowhere to go. No car. No signal. Woods full of hungry bears preparing for winter. Or maybe something worse, if I believed the legends Daniela had told me. 

I lay absolutely still. Eventually the ruckus stopped, or I fell asleep, or maybe the whole thing was just a bad vivid dream—I swear I only had one glass of palinka! At breakfast, I casually asked the German man if he went out to look at the stars in the night. He had slept straight through. 

That afternoon, I returned to Brasov, then onward to Bucharest, then home. I didn’t see the Peles Castle or the ASTRA Ethnography Museum or drive on the scenic Transfăgărășan Highway or visit the ceramics studios I’d planned. I’m not entirely sure what happened that night, and I’m less sure than I was before about what happened throughout the thousands of years of history Daniela and I sped through. But I was sufficiently enchanted and spooked, and ready to book my return trip to do it all again. Though next time with a car. And hopefully not alone.

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In short… A luxurious stay in Rome that doubles as a welcoming retreat for families.

The surroundings… Set within a lush 15-acre park atop Monte Mario, the Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel is a lovely escape from the bustle of Rome’s center. It’s just far enough from the city to offer a more relaxed vibe, with its manicured grounds that are a highlight in themselves. (Let the kids burn off steam running around the Alice and Wonderland-esuqe lawn statues and grab an aperitif on the patio, overlooking the double pools.) From the city-facing rooms, the Rome Cavalieri’s balconies deliver stunning views across Rome. E.M. Forster may have staked Florence as the setting for A Room with a View, but one glance from the balcony (St. Peter’s dome, the Colosseum, the Spanish Steps, to name just a few sights) and he might have reconsidered. A complimentary shuttle runs regularly to the city center, putting you in the heart of Rome in a 15 minutes, traffic permitting.

The backstory… Opened in 1963 during Rome’s La Dolce Vita heyday, the Rome Cavalieri was one of the city’s first true resort hotels, and that glamorous vibe remains. Its incredible art collection originated with art collector and first owner of the property, Angelo Guido Terruzzi, who installed and housed major works from his personal collection throughout the hotel (including a Tiepolo triptych, pieces by Warhol, and many rare decorative arts and tapestries), ultimately making it home to one of Europe’s most valuable private collections.

Today, it’s as remarkable for its art as it is for its beautiful views and pools. For adults, it feels like staying in a private museum, and for kids, there are even original stage costumes from productions like Sleeping Beauty framed and displayed throughout. Give my kids this over a Disney Princess brunch any day.

The vibe…  Luxe yet comfortable and welcoming. After a few weeks of traveling through Sicily where the rooms, views, and lobbies are undeniably beautiful but sometimes verge on the rustic or overly precious (thin pillows, questionable AC, breakable things!) Rome Cavalieri’s lush, plush interiors were a welcome change. The lobby bar is glam and gilded, yet not overly intimidating. You can sip your Negroni in peace, confident it’s totally acceptable if your child ditches their shoes under the table.

The rooms… The rooms very much lean into old-world European opulence, giving more palazzo than pared-back minimalism. Think silk wall coverings, brocade drapes, and Empire-style furnishings mixed with glossy marble bathrooms and private balconies. The ornate details are softened by plush textiles and generously-sized beds, which is exactly what’s called for after a day spent by the pool or exploring Rome. Many of the rooms have modern upgrades, but the overall feel remains grand and deeply comfortable.

The food & drink… We only had time for one dinner during our stay (sad!), which we spent at the lovely outdoor Patio 101, a casual al fresco spot tucked into the hotel’s private park. The service was great, and the menu felt thoughtfully designed for families, with shareable plates, kid-friendly pizzas, and simple seafood dishes that nod to seaside Italy without overcomplicating things. Next time, I’ll be gunning for a reservation at the coveted Michelin-starred La Pergola (the city’s first and only 3-Michelin Star restaurant), which was several floors above our room with dinner-table views I can’t even begin to fathom.

The wellness… I was so sad to not have the time to visit the spa personally, but I was able to get a peek during my tour, and the Cavalieri Grand Spa Club includes a full circuit of sauna, steam room, cold plunge, and an indoor pool beneath a glass dome. 

The other outdoor pools are tucked into the hillside next to the hotel, including a big, sun-splashed main pool that’s basically an all-day hang, and a more relaxed kids pool. There is also a proper and huge gym, tennis courts, and lots of space to actually move, which feels like a rarity in Rome. 

Is it kid-friendly? YES. As mentioned, there’s a dedicated kids’ pool, complete with a giant waterslide. The poolside menus are full of child-friendly options (fries, sandwiches, pizzas, the usual suspects). The classic Italian breakfast buffet was the stuff of my 3-year-old’s dreams (the offerings leaned a bit more “global” than your typical Italian hotel, but after two weeks in Italy, it was appreciated). The expansive grounds are also perfect for kids to explore and secluded enough to feel like an adventure, yet open enough that you can keep an eye on everyone. Add in the art, the service, the sheer sense of ease…It’s hard to find a place this indulgent that’s also so unfussy with children, but Rome Cavalieri hits the bullseye! 

Be sure to… The grounds alone are worth exploring with many quiet walking paths, big lawns, and the kind of wide-open space you don’t usually get in Rome. My husband is a runner and definitely took advantage of the hills and views for what I can imagine were some truly beautiful sunset runs.

To head into the city, don’t forget to hop on the hotel’s shuttle; it’s an easy, low-lift way to get right into Rome’s center without dealing with taxis or traffic logistics.

Parting words… The Rome Cavalieri is a fabulous find, especially if you’re traveling with younger cohorts. It’s a reliable hotel that feels unabashedly decadent yet warm and welcoming at the same time. With art at every turn, views to rival a postcard, a perfectly designed kid-friendly pool set-up, and grounds where kids can roam freely while adults relax nearby, it manages to be both iconic and a true family retreat.

Date of stay… August 31st, 2025

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I’ve always loved Zurich, even though I never get to spend enough time there. Between visiting our dear friends who live in Voralberg, Austria, or the Buchinger Wilhelmi clinic an hour and a half away on Lake Constance, we always try to bookend these trips with a couple of days in this beautiful Swiss city. It’s home to one of my absolute favorite restaurants in the world (also the favorite of all of our contributors), as well as a beloved perfume store, great shopping, and the most scenic lakeside runs. Somehow, it manages to feel equal parts old world and new, elegant and relaxed… qualities that our local friend, Frank Herrmann—who listed his go-tos here in our Black Book—summed up so beautifully that we had to share it with you here. He writes:

“Zurich has a reputation for being buttoned-up—the banks, the clean streets, the punctual trams gliding along Limmatquai. But the Zurich I fell in love with is softer, more eccentric, and sometimes even a little wild. It’s the smell of roasted chestnuts curling through Bahnhofstrasse in winter, and the first swim of the season in the lake when the water is still glacial, but you feel alive down to your bones. In summer, Zurich’s badi culture—the floating wooden baths that dot the river and lake—is absolutely unique: everyone sheds their serious faces and spends afternoons stretched out in the sun, diving in and climbing out, reading newspapers with wet hair. Here in Zurich, elegance lives next to eccentricity. A cocktail at the Kronenhalle, where the walls are lined with Chagall and Miró, is followed by a late-night sausage from a street stand and partying away at the famous Langstrasse. That contrast is the heartbeat of this city.”

I’m so thrilled to have this list from our favorite locals so I can go deeper—and stay longer—on our next visit. —Yolanda

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Adam Graham is an American journalist and travel writer based in Zurich. He writes for various publications including The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, and Condé Nast Traveler, reporting on travel, food, architecture and design. 

Andreas Leeman is a Zurich-based photographer and airline pilot, who finds inspiration both in his travels around the world and in the city he calls home, which he describes as “open to the world and like a small village, close to nature.”

Frank Herrmann is a Zurich- and Paris-based strategy consultant and one half of #f2ontour, who never travels without his pocket calendar, meticulously plotting a three-month rolling itinerary of architecture, art, history and food.

Leonard Wilhelmi is the Lake Constance-based CEO of Buchinger Wilhelmi, a fourth-generation family-owned fasting clinic with locations in Germany, Spain, and soon France. 

Marcela Palek is style director of Monocle’s Konfekt magazine. Born in Prague and raised in Zurich, she’s lived there ever since.

Marguita Kracht took the reins as the seventh generation to run Baur au Lac in 2022, alongside her father, Andrea Kracht, with whom she works to guide the hotel into its next chapter. Since 1844, the hotel has been in the hands of the Baur-Kracht family, who continue to run it with a keen sense of innovation and unique understanding of heritage. 

Mats Klingberg is the Swedish-born founder of Trunk Clothiers, a menswear brand and multi-brand retailer with a store on Chiltern Street in London and Dufourstrasse in Zurich. 

Ralph Schelling is a Zurich-based chef who has worked in Spain, England and Tokyo. The most recent winner of the Culinary Cup, his cookbook, Simple is Best, was just published by AT Verlag. When he’s not cooking, he takes culinary journeys between Asia, Europe and the USA, peeking into the pots of inspiring restaurant chefs.

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A few weeks ago I had about an hour to spare in Vienna, and having consulted our Black Book thoroughly before my trip, I knew I wanted to visit Saint Charles Apothecary. The Black Book entry on the apothecary had a photo of a dark, seemingly hand-carved wooden cabinet lined with rows of neatly organized tinctures and potions, which was enough to pique my interest. When I arrived, I learned that the cabinets (and the pharmacy itself) date to 1886, and that the shop has always focused on the healing power of nature, specifically herbs, though they now carry brands like Aesop alongside their own product line. 

I was fascinated by their hyper-specific products: antibacterial spruce resin ointment, a magnesium gel for sore muscles, essential oil blends for aufguss sauna sessions, and even a spray made just for yoga mats. I came across a 100% propolis spray and remembered hearing about the amazing properties of this bee byproduct during a beekeeping lesson last year. 

Propolis is a resinous substance bees produce primarily for hive maintenance—to seal cracks and holes in the beehive—and the claims around it are pretty incredible: antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, packed with polyphenols and antioxidants. After two trips to Europe in two weeks, I was starting to feel run-down—you know that feeling when you cross the tipping point and just have to admit you’re getting sick and ride it out? That’s where I was, and this 18-euro bottle of amber-hued liquid staring back at me was my only hope. 

I took a few sprays and immediately questioned if this was meant to be ingested or applied topically, that’s how potent the taste is, but was assured it’s meant to be sprayed in your throat and that you get used to the flavor. Jury’s still out on that, but it did nip whatever oncoming malady I had in the bud, and I’ve been taking a spray of it once or twice a week since for good measure. Luckily, they ship worldwide, so if you want to stock up for cold season, you don’t have to fly to Vienna. If you do give it a try, I’d just recommend keeping an Altoid on hand as a chaser. 

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Few places in Europe blend medieval charm, the cultures of three countries, and a stunning mix of lake and Alps quite like Lake Constance. For me, it’s also home.

I grew up in Michigan, but for more than half of my life I have called Konstanz, Germany (“Constance” in English) home. Love brought me here. My husband is originally from Constance. We met while working in Detroit, Michigan. When he got transferred back to Germany, I joined him and never looked back. I traded the shores of Lake Michigan for those of the Bodensee, Germany’s largest freshwater lake at the country’s southern tip. The city of Constance is the biggest city on the lake, directly on the Swiss border. Lake Constance is bordered by three countries: Germany, Austria and Switzerland, with tiny Liechtenstein only a short drive away. 

A large, rotating statue welcomes you into the harbor of Constance. Her name is Imperia, and she stirred plenty of debate when sculptor Peter Lenk unveiled her in 1993. I affectionately call her the twirling prostitute, as she is a large, voluptuous woman who was a courtesan during the Council of Constance from 1414 to 1418, a series of meetings held to resolve the Great Schism of the Roman Catholic Church, when multiple rival popes claimed authority. Look closely and you will see she is holding the naked king in one hand and the naked pope in the other, a bold symbol of moral hypocrisy and political manipulation.

The building where these meetings took place still stands alongside the harbor in Constance, with views of the lake and the Alps. From the harbor, it’s just a couple of minutes before you are in the pedestrian-free downtown area. For lunch, I often head to Essbar, where the menu of small plates changes constantly. Don’t leave without trying the warm chocolate cake for dessert. On Tuesdays, my secret tip is to head to the tiny Milk and Honey café for their unforgettable bánh-mì sandwich and a slice of homemade cake.

I love wandering the small downtown streets, lined with buildings from the 12^th to 15^th centuries. Residents left their lights on at night during WWII, making the city indistinguishable from neutral Switzerland and sparing it from bombing. Don’t miss ‘sFachl, tucked inside a 900-year-old house and brimming with handcrafted treasures from local makers. If you’re looking for a new leather bag, Alexander Heitz has four shops across downtown Constance.

I am always sure to show guests the “Niederburg,” the oldest section of Constance. This quarter is a maze of alleyways and winding streets lined with small shops. Stop into Kolekto, a concept store brimming with ethically made finds. I can’t pass through the Niederburg without stepping back in time in one of its many wine bars. A favorite is the Weinstube Hintertürle, located in a very charming 600-year-old building. Order a glass of Müller-Thurgau, the popular local white, or a Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) for red, both grown right along the lake’s shores. 

For dinner, I like to head down to the Rhine River, which flows out of Lake Constance to the unassuming-looking Restaurant Anglerstube. But don’t let appearances fool you. Step inside to a warm welcome and always inventive dishes.

For a more affordable option along the Rhine, the Constanzer Wirtshaus serves all the Southern German classics (Maultaschen, Spätzle, and Wurstsalat), best enjoyed in its beer garden overlooking the river. In Constance, history greets you at every turn. Kaiser Wilhelm II built this building as an officers’ casino in 1899.

In keeping with history, I recommend staying at the Inselhotel, a former Dominican monastery located on a small private island on the lake. Even if you don’t spend the night, be sure to walk through the old cloister surrounded by its well-preserved frescoes, which depict significant historical events from the city’s past. Constance also has several other islands worth discovering. The Island of Mainau, otherwise known as the flower island, is home to a million tulips, roses, dahlias, 15-meter-tall palm trees, giant sequoias, and a palace from 1746. Owned by a Swedish noble family, the palace flies the Swedish flag whenever the Bernadottes are in residence.

Constance is also home to the vegetable island of the Reichenau. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can visit the oldest herb garden in Germany at the monastery garden behind the Church of St. Mary and St. Mark, dating back to AD 724. On the 12-kilometer trail around the island, you may be surprised at how often you have the trail to yourself. Depending on the time of year, you will stroll by rows of lettuce and many small farm stands where you can purchase locally grown vegetables. Stop at the restaurant Sandseele for fresh fish from the lake. My favorite is the Zanderknusperle, crispy, golden pike-perch. You can also go for a swim and enjoy the best spot on the lake for a sunset. In summer, the lake warms to about 23 degrees Celsius.

If the lake feels too chilly, head to the warm thermal pools at the Bodensee Therme, with sweeping views of the Alps across the lake.

I live close to the car ferry, which carries commuters between Staad in Constance and the fairytale town of Meersburg. Your first stop in Meersburg should be the oldest inhabited castle in Germany, the Burg Meersburg. After stepping out of the Middle Ages, I like to take a short stroll past the New Castle to the Gutsschänke for a jaw-dropping view paired with a Winzerbrot, a German take on a pinsa. From here, you can continue about 3km through the vineyards to Fräulein Seegucker for a glass of local wine, seated right between the rows of the vines.The most stylish way to discover the lake is by ship. The Hohentwiel is a historical steamship from 1913. You can book gourmet cruises and other events on this elegantly renovated paddle steamship. Another spectacular way to see the lake is from above, aboard a Zeppelin. Flights range between 30 minutes and two hours. These airships start from Friedrichshafen, the birthplace of the Zeppelin, where they are still designed and built today. If you can’t make it up in one, visit the Zeppelin Museum in Friedrichshafen, where you can walk through a life-size replica of the Hindenburg. After the museum, stop at the Zeppelin Hangar Restaurant to watch the Zeppelins take off and land, a truly spectacular sight.

Leave the city behind and stay at Heinzler am See in Immenstaad to enjoy a private slice of paradise directly on the lake.

The Bodensee is a place of castles, monasteries, vineyards, and islands, all framed by the beautiful backdrop of water and mountains. Whether for a day or a week, I highly recommend seeing it for yourself!

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