Carly Shea, Author at Yolo Journal https://www.yolojournal.com/author/carly/ We gather the insider spots, the secrets, the hacks—the places you’ve never seen before and a fresh take on your favorites Sat, 15 Nov 2025 02:35:52 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://i0.wp.com/www.yolojournal.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/cropped-favicon.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Carly Shea, Author at Yolo Journal https://www.yolojournal.com/author/carly/ 32 32 215426466 Living Abroad in… Paris https://www.yolojournal.com/living-abroad-with-irene-kim/ https://www.yolojournal.com/living-abroad-with-irene-kim/#respond Fri, 14 Nov 2025 13:44:08 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=148214 Stylist Irene Kim and her husband realized it was now or never to follow their dream of moving from Toronto to Paris, and finally made the leap this summer after a year of sorting out visas, schools, bank accounts, and a tangle of French bureaucracy.

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moving aborad to paris with irene kim

Stylist and editor Irene Kim writes one of our favorite fashion Substacks, In Moda Veritas, sharing her unfussy yet elevated approach to style. Originally from Canada, her family realized it was “now or never” to follow their dream of moving from Toronto to Paris, and finally made the leap this summer after a year of sorting out visas, schools, bank accounts, and a tangle of French bureaucracy. The pay-off has been a slower pace, culture woven into the everyday, and the ease of traveling throughout Europe. Read on for all the details of their move—including the logistics of getting her incredible wardrobe across an ocean—and how you can do it, too.

What inspired your move to Paris?  

It was a vibe I picked up the very first time I visited over 20 years ago. Paris is romanticized for a lot of things, but what really drew me in was the general mood and emotional temperature of the people. There’s a reserve here. People are slower to warm, but there’s also a real value placed on conversation and debate. That slower, more thoughtful social energy just felt right to me. Of course, there were other things that made living here appealing. Culture in all its forms is woven into everyday life. Travel is easier and more accessible than from Toronto. Overall, Paris had just the right mix of what I was looking for in a city I wanted to live in.

That was 20 years ago, and while I’d visited Paris and France many times since, I finally made the move from Toronto in July 2025 with my husband and two sons. I still appreciate all of the things that initially drew me in, but now there’s the added layer of wanting to experience this together, as a family. It helps that we all speak varying levels of French already.

What was that process like as a Canadian? Did you work with a person/service in France or navigate it all on your own? Could you share a bit about the visa process?

We contacted a lawyer over a year before our intended move date so we could get a clear idea of what entry options were available to us. I’d strongly recommend speaking to a French immigration lawyer early on—even if it’s just a one-hour consultation—to get an accurate picture of your visa options. You don’t necessarily need someone to handle your entire application, but having a professional walk you through the process can save a lot of time and stress. There’s so much conflicting information floating around online, especially in Facebook groups, and it’s easy to get led in the wrong direction. For us, the VLS-TS (long-stay visa) made the most sense. It’s renewable each year for up to five years, and the checklist for our specific visa type is fairly straightforward. We just worked through it one step at a time. 

Looking back, you could probably get it all done in three months if you really had to. But if you can, I’d give yourself at least a year—not just to deal with paperwork, but to emotionally and physically prepare. That includes things like renting or selling your home, downsizing or storing your belongings, sorting out school or work logistics, getting your finances in order, and saying your goodbyes.

Did you learn about any surprising visa hacks/loopholes worth sharing?

Not applicable to us, but I learned that when applying for a VISA, not to write “moving to be with a boyfriend/girlfriend.” Apparently French authorities are well aware of how often those situations don’t last!  

moving aborad to paris with irene kim

What about the nitty-gritty stuff—enrolling your kids in school, bank accounts, phone service—did you sort that out before you left, or once you were in Paris? What about housing?

I found a few aspects of the relocation process to be tricky because they created these frustrating chicken-and-egg situations.

First, we could only apply for our visa three months before our intended entry into France. That means we could spend a year getting our house ready to rent/sell, research and pay for schools, etc… only to have our visa denied. That uncertainty definitely weighed on me. Again, this is where speaking with an immigration lawyer is really helpful to give you a realistic assessment of your chances and help you prepare a stronger application.

For our visa, we needed to show proof of accommodation, but getting a lease in France is notoriously difficult if you’re coming from abroad. Most landlords require a French guarantor and proof of income that’s 3x the rent. On top of that, Paris rentals tend to hit the market only about a month before the move-in date, which makes it tough to line up a lease before you submit your visa application. 

To help us through this gauntlet, we contacted real estate agents early, like in August 2024. They all laughed and told me to call back in May 2025. Hoping I could sort out our rental before we submitted our visa application, I tried again in March and we were very lucky to secure our place in April for a mid-July move-in. Our back-up plan was to stay with friends who were willing to sign a declaration stating we’d be living with them, which is allowed under our visa. Another common workaround is to book an Airbnb for three months and look for long-term housing once you’re here. Another chicken-and-egg: I needed to show my signed lease to open a bank account and get a phone number, which I did within the first days I arrived. I’m not sure what you would do if you don’t have your lease sorted out yet.

Figuring out schooling took up most of my time. Our sons were entering Grades 4 and 6 and I ideally wanted them to be in the same school and one that was primarily French. In the Paris public system, grade 6 is collège (middle school) which is separate from primary school, so that motivated us to find a school that would take both. We’ve always been in the public school system in Toronto, so applying for private and semi-private schools was way more time-consuming than I expected. Most of the schools we applied to were 100% French, which meant I needed to get all the boys’ report cards and documents translated at a significant cost. Application deadlines were in fall 2024 for the 2025-26 school year, so the research had to happen well before finding housing or applying for your visa. If you don’t go the public school route, your choice of school will probably determine the area you’ll want to live in.

Is there anything you wish you knew before you made the move?

Other than knowing more French, no, not really. For the big pillars, we were as prepared as we could be. For the rest of it, the fun is in figuring it out as you go.

How is your French? Have you found any helpful resources or tricks to practice?

My French is OK. I learned French throughout school and have done Alliance Francaise on-and-off. Because I studied French academically, my reading and writing is decent, but my spoken French—which never gets practice—is pretty rusty. Having grown up in New Brunswick, my husband is fairly fluent. Did you know that New Brunswick is the only official bilingual province in Canada? It’s not Quebec! My kids were in French immersion in Toronto, so at least they have a base. I’m in a conversation group and when things settle down, I’ll begin Alliance Francaise again.

As a stylist you have an amazing (and presumably large) wardrobe, how did you manage to move all of that across an ocean? 

Oh man, I wrote two newsletters about this (Part one and two).

Part of moving from Toronto to Paris is accepting that people live more densely and in smaller spaces. Our Paris apartment is 1/3 the size of our Toronto home and we have no yard here. Early on, I foolishly thought I’d be taking my entire wardrobe, reasoning that clothes are my job, so of course I needed to take it all! In the end, I ended up giving away or consigning 75% of my wardrobe. I decided that this was a rare opportunity to only keep what I loved without qualification, even if it left a “gap” in my closet. It didn’t matter if I “needed” it and didn’t have something similar in cut, color, or utility. Even then, my wardrobe (including shoes, coats, accessories) took up 10 of these bags. We moved with 16 checked-in blue bags, four carry-ons and four personal items.

Beyond your wardrobe—did you bring furniture/art/books, or start fresh?

We didn’t bring any furniture, because we moved into a fully furnished home that has all the basics, and at the same time, we rented out our Toronto home. We left all our art, books, etc… for our tenants. By comparison, our Paris apartment feels far from lived-in, and I’m having a hard time deciding what to invest in when we’re not sure how long we’re staying (we’re taking it one year at a time!). We brought probably one suitcase worth of sentimental items like our wedding photo, quilts made by grandma, a few of the boys’ favorite books and toys.

Has the move influenced your work as a stylist? Has Paris changed how you dress or the way you approach your projects?

I decided when I moved here that I would continue with my Substack, In Moda Veritas, but scale back on my style consulting until the new year. I want and need the time just to observe and absorb all that is new around me, while also taking the extra time to settle in my family. Come the new year, I’m curious to see how being here will influence my work going forward.

It’s only been a couple of months, but unsurprisingly, I’ve been especially attuned to how people dress in Paris. There’s a discernible difference here from style codes I’m used to back home, and from what I see in other fashion capitals like New York, London, and Tokyo. What immediately stood out is that what’s considered “casual” here feels more elevated than at home. My wardrobe goes from sweatpants to skirts with very little in between, and my Tibi Calder joggers were my faithful go-tos for just about everything. In North America, loungewear has been fully absorbed into the style lexicon, but in Paris, sweatpants tend to remain in the domain of gyms and homes. It’s not that people are in heels and fancy ensembles at 9am; in fact, sneakers are absolutely the norm here. Casual looks different, and I’ve had to invest in some everyday jeans and bottoms.

Any surprising things you’ve learned about culture/life in France?

There’s this impression in North America that the French (and Italians) know how to enjoy life with their morning cappuccinos, leisurely lunches and many vacation days. Vacation is definitely sacred here, but my impression is that the French work long and hard hours. The grass isn’t always greener!

moving aborad to paris with irene kim

It’s only been a few months, but do you have any neighborhood favorites so far? 

To be honest, I’ve barely left the neighborhood! There’s so much involved in settling in the family, getting your apartment together, developing routines….

It’s been an adjustment for the boys especially to live in an apartment and be mindful of how much noise they’re making. We’ve already gotten complaints from the neighbors! We’re trying, but they need to get their energy out. Expansive green space is hard to come by in Paris, so I love living near Bois du Boulogne and being able to go there a few times a week.

I love the fish markets! I seem to come across them all over the city, and every time I do, it’s settled, that’s our dinner for the night.

I love that I can walk out my door and I have five grocery stores, five cafés, and 15 restaurants within 100m. We lived pretty centrally in Toronto and the nearest anything was a 10-minute walk. 

What’s on your personal Paris bucket list for the next year?

I have a long list relating to the shops I want to visit. There are so many brands here and I want to see as much as I can. All the secondhand shops! Les Puces de Saint Ouen at least once a month. The Singer exhibition at Musée d’Orsay. And just exploring and discovering things with my family.

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Packing for 8 Weeks and 2 Continents with Natasha Nyanin https://www.yolojournal.com/packing-with-natasha-nyanin/ https://www.yolojournal.com/packing-with-natasha-nyanin/#respond Fri, 07 Nov 2025 18:21:40 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=146733 This summer, writer and globetrotter Natasha Nyanin packed for an 8-week trip with nearly a dozen stops. Her approach is equally whimsical and practical (albeit maximalist), and she has us seriously considering traveling with stationery and a wax seal.

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Packing with Natasha Nyanin
(Photos by Colby Blount)

When I was first in touch with writer and globetrotter Natasha Nyanin a few weeks ago, I asked if she had a recent or upcoming trip that she’d like to base her responses on. She replied, “How about packing for an 8-week trip that went from Venice to Cortina to Sardinia to the Amalfi Coast to Milan to Rome to Paris to Champagne to Marrakech and to London?” Ummm ya, that will do! It’s always impressive to hear how people manage to pack for these long, multi-leg trips and look fabulous while maneuvering through airports, ferry terminals and train stations with a caravan of luggage. Natasha’s approach is equally whimsy and practical (albeit maximalist) and she convinced me that maybe I should start traveling with stationery and wax seal stamps.

What’s your go-to luggage and why?  

Before setting off to Venice, I knew packing for such an adventure would be, in and of itself, a journey. Why? Because Venice was to be only the first leg of a multilimbic sojourn across Europe (I’d be flying back to NYC from Heathrow after making numerous stops across the continent and North Africa), so packing required a deft balance of strategy and whimsy. Thankfully, I was afforded two 70lb checked bags on both my United flights: a relief!

I am an ardent believer that one should aspire to be whatever kind of packer that brings them joy, so I am not here to proselytize for packing one way or the other. That being said, I personally find it stressful to limit myself when packing, as getting dressed is an intuitive exercise calibrated by whimsical factors that I cannot predict far in advance, such as what colors might reflect my mood that day. So, as an unabashed, card-carrying member of the overpackers club, I travel with multiple checked pieces (especially on an extended trip, which is my preferred way to travel), a roll-aboard carry-on and a duffle weekender.

For my checked bags, I have found that luggage with a polycarbonate hard shell works best for my needs. I love my Floyd Check-in for its distinctive red wheels, which make it easy to spot coming down the carousel (and the magnetic closure of the case is a plus, but only if I do not have to overstuff the luggage). I am currently most enjoying my TUMI Extended Trip Packing Case in black for its durability, lightness and capaciousness, allowing me to pack even more while staying within the confines of airline allowances.

When it comes to cabin bags, I am in a rather committed relationship with the Globe-Trotter Centenary trolley, which I have in black with gold hardware but I adored the iteration I had before (which was sadly stolen somewhere at CDG). It’s a two-wheeled (ever the form over function girl here) Japanese urushi lacquered piece from their now-discontinued Orient collection (bring it back, Globe-Trotter!). I plop my camel leather Loewe duffle atop the Globe-Trotter and that’s how you’ll almost always see me rolling through the airport.

How do you approach the basics?  

Asking me to plan outfits in advance is akin to asking a fish to ride a bicycle: I’m simply not wired that way, unless there’s a particular event I’m planning for (a wedding or an invitation to the opera, say), in which case I’d likely have something specifically picked out and packed. I typically go through my closet and make a pile of “take with” and “maybes” which I whittle down as I pack. Making the piles on my bed helps me to visualize what I am packing so that I don’t take too many multiples of a similar thing.  

In general, I also keep a general packing list in my Notes app on my phone that I refer to each time I have to pack so I am sure not to leave any of the necessities like my laptop charger, steamer, socks, scarves etc. 

For this specific trip, since I was planning a black-tie celebratory event in Venice for my 40th birthday, the basics included a couple of gowns and other special occasion pieces, which I packed in a bridal garment bag that I carried on. 

Are you a roller or a folder?

I used to be a roller until working stays at St. Regis Venice and St. Regis Rome afforded me access to their butler service (they will pack for you!) and let me tell you, watching the maestri at work, I now am a believer in the flat fold. I was amazed and how they were able to fit all my suits so pristinely into my suitcase. And not only did they manage that, they even slipped a pair of St. Regis branded house slippers and personalized pajamas into the case!

Any other packing tricks or hero items? 

I always pack a number of silk kaftans (Moroccan djellebas) that I designed and had made by Aya’s Marrakech. They are lightweight, roomy, simple, and work well for a casual moment, but pack enough visual intrigue to be dressed up for dinner.

What’s your shoe strategy? 

For a trip like this that straddles the seasons and where I’ll be walking incessantly, I focus on packing flats. I have a go-to pair of flat Loewe mules that have been my travel companion for the last three or so years. I also packed one pair of flat boots for when the weather begins to dip. In this case, a pair from Gabriela Hearst that I got in 2021, when I was going on my first safari with Elewana and Asalia in Kenya and Tanzania, and which have been treating me kindly ever since. Because there were and will invariably be some formal events during my trip, I pack 1-3 pairs of heels, focusing on pairs that can work as a neutral. I also like to pack a pair of house slippers for lounging. A pair of red leather babouches I bought in the souks in Marrakech a million years ago are still doing that heavy lifting to this day.

How do you think about accessories?

I am not much of an accessory person and, by my standards at least, I keep them to a minimum. When it comes to jewellery, I stick to a uniform: two Hermès enamel bracelets that I stack, and a two-finger 18k gold ring made for me by New York’s Charlton & Lola are items I slip on daily, as a ritual. Add to this one pair of statement earrings packed into my carry-on for special occasions and you’ve got the whole formula. I used to carry my beloved large Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff on all my trips, but it disappeared in that carry-on that was stolen and my dream is to eventually replace it and add to it the Bone Cuff ring.

I literally own only two handbags—one old-school Celine box bag in blue, and a red classic Ferragamo top handle bag. They travel with me everywhere, along with silk scarves that I like to tie on my handbags for a change of vibe. I love sunglasses so I tend to pack a number of alternative pairs, but when I want to stick to one, it would be a black oversized pair like these Saint Laurent Kate SL214.

Do you have a great travel hat? 

I have a great hat! Is it a great travel hat? Probably not. It’s wholly impractical with its extra-wide brim and being wrought from fragile Filipino raffia. But it’s great for the beach and to add a touch of something extra to so many looks. My technique for carrying it is simple—the hat has an elastic band, so I just slip the band over the telescoping handle of my carryon suitcase and the hat rides hands-free. The piece was made by Australian milliner Stephanie Spencer (who does have more practical hats in her oeuvre).

What’s always in your dopp kit/toiletry bag/pharmacy kit? 

Before I get to what’s in the dopp kit, let me talk about my dopp kit itself, which is one of those rare genius pieces that has revolutionised my travel toiletry experience. This is NOT hyperbole. I introduced a friend to the brand and she wouldn’t stop talking about it for 2 weeks. I am talking about the Parallelle toiletry bags that I have in all three sizes.

These kits allow you to stand your products up in them so your toiletries are each neatly nested for easy identification. The sides of the bags fold down when unzipped so you can easily access the array of things. This means I do not have to empty the bag to find items and so is invaluable to multi-leg trips where I have to switch hotels every couple of nights. I use the smallest one as my makeup bag, where I keep my Mac concealer, Lancôme Tient Idole Ultra Wear Foundation, a trio of brushes, Fenty Lip Paint in the shade Uncensored, The Lip Bar Nonstop Liquid Matte lipstick in Bawse Lady,  and Dior Lip Glow Oil.

The medium bag (the perfect size) is the home for toiletries under 100ml. In it lives my array of Surya by Martha Ayurvedic skincare (The Balancing Face Oil, Calming Lip Therapy lip balm, and the impeccable Balancing Collagen Cream), as well as their Kansa face wand, a tool I have come to cherish. I also keep Tata Harper’s Water-Lock Moisturiser, some decanted Shea oil from R&R Skincare, and Supergoop Glowstick sunscreen in the bag. Because my Suri electric toothbrush comes with a carrying case that doubles as a charging case, I don’t have to stuff it into my dopp kit, which is a relief both for space and hygiene reasons.

The largest bag houses my larger toiletries that go into my checked luggage. In there you’ll find a bottle of MARA Algae Cleansing Oil, Surya by Martha Rose Petal body oil, Tatcha The Rice Polish (for exfoliation days) and a tub of Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask.

Pharmaceutically I make sure that besides my prescriptions I have an antihistamine (Zyrtec), Tylenol, and very importantly, an antiseptic throat spray, as it is easy to pick up little viral or bacterial infections on long trips where exhaustion weakens the immune system. 

On a plane, what essentials does your carry-on bag always contain? 

I always carry at least two books: one of poetry and one that is some form of prose, along with a journal and my Pineider fountain pen. I also keep stationery in my carry-on as I like to write letters on the road, especially notes of gratitude to people I may encounter who enrich my experience. Besides my Capri writing paper from Pineider, I even have my wax and stamp with me for sealing envelopes as though I were Jane Eyre, because that’s how committed I am to the fullness of experience or ridiculousness (label it as you will).

You’ll always find a couple of  bottles of perfume in my carry-on. If I’m taking only two, these days it’s likely Fredric Malle’s Portrait of a Lady and the intoxicatingly spicy Metamorphic by Kingdom of Scotland in collaboration with near-perfect hotel The Balmoral in Edinburgh.

And most importantly, I always fold a pair of silk pajamas into my carry-on as the sleep experience should not be compromised no matter where it’s happening.

Any wisdom on traveling with electronics? 

I have a small bag of adapters for various countries and regions that I keep in my carry-on, which includes a car-charger that doubles as a bluetooth connector to listen to music, as sometimes the basic rentals don’t come with those bells and whistles, and good music is essential for a road-trip.

My Macbook Air is kept in a brown leather case I found in Mumbai from the Indian brand Nappa Dori. For earphones, I use the Beoplay Ex from Bang & Olufsen (a red pair from their Ferrari collaboration), but have my eye on their over-ear Beoplay H100, which delivers such crisp sound. 

Do you have a travel uniform?  

There was a time when I always travelled in a suit. I still like to do so, but have expanded that uniform to include any kind of smart trouser and shirt along with a MaxMara trench coat in tow.

Any other hacks?

The importance of a good travel steamer cannot be overstated. I’ve gone through several of them and done copious amounts of research before settling on these two: Steam One for Europe and other areas operating at 220V, and this Electrolux that I discovered while staying at The Madrona near San Francisco for US domestic travel and other 110-120V areas.

In West Africa (I am from Ghana), we have these lightweight, foldable, super cheap bags that come in a multiplicity of sizes that we call Ghana Must Go bags, and I became accustomed to traveling with one folded up in my suitcase (for the eventuality of acquiring a bunch of things on the road and thus needing an extra bag for the return). In lieu of the Ghana Must Go bag, it’s not a bad idea to pack something like this. It weighs nothing, takes up no space, but will rescue you if you find yourself needing to pack an extra bag for the return trip.

Packing with Natasha Nyanin

For eight weeks on the road, you must be traveling with more than one bag. Do you have any tricks for managing it all? 

When travelling with more than one suitcase, I have a system for getting them around. If an airport trolley is easily accessible, then sure, I’ll use the trolley. An airport employee at Newark once saw me stacking my luggage on the cart and came over to congratulate me saying “I know you must not be from here, the way you did that so expertly. Are you African?” It’s true, Africans are renowned overpackers. Usually though, what I do is place two suitcases back to back, so that their telescoping handles are next to each other, and wheel the pair with one hand (and do the same for a second pair to be wheeled with the other hand). I place my duffle or tote on top of one of the suitcases and might even use one handle of the duffle to yoke to the two suitcase handles together for even easier maneuvering.

I have also used the service Luggage Forward to send luggage unaccompanied with great success when I’ve gone a little wild on craft shopping in Tamegroute, Morocco, and they delivered my ceramics in perfect condition. 

I recently learned that Trentitalia has a door-to-door service for sending luggage ahead if you have a train reservation, and it costs about 20 Euro per bag. Considering how much train travel I do when bouncing around Italy, it is certainly an amenity I intend to take advantage of in the near future.

How do you approach packing for a multi-leg trip with different events and climates?

In this instance, I planned out all of my looks for the special events and packed them in a garment bag. I chose high-heeled shoes that were versatile and would work in multiple situations in order to keep the shoe number to a minimum.

Admittedly, when I was taking advantage of Booking.com’s feature that allows one to book multiple aspects of a trip (flights, accommodation, ground transport) in one go and adding leg after leg to this journey, I was too engrossed in it all, and was not thinking about having to bridge varying climates (Italian summer, French Autumn, Marrakech August heat, London just being, well, London). I solved that by packing layerable pieces such as linen jackets (like a khaki one from Another Tomorrow and a white one from Victoria Beckham x Mango) and two trench coats (a flowy one from The Frankie Shop and a classic tan one from Max Mara) that I could stack on top of each other for the cooler climes.

What’s your laundry strategy for a trip that long? 

For a long trip such as this one, I do laundry either at hotels during the stay that include it as part of the rate such as the charming Su Gologone, where I stayed in Sardinia. While I do not pack anything expressly for doing laundry on the go, I do try to always have a packet of M&S Stain Remover Wipes with me while I travel. They are incredibly effective.

Are there any hero items you found yourself reaching for throughout each leg of this trip?

The ultra-versatile Issey Miyake Madam T scarf/dress is a piece I reach for all the time at home and on the road. It’s this long scarf with a hole in the middle that allows you to tie it in ways for effects ranging from casual to formal. I first fell in love with it when I discovered it at the Pleats Please store in Soho in 2016. It’s a lightweight chameleon that I wear all the time, because I feel so free in it. I draped it like a cloak when a photographer friend suggested a conceptual shoot in a grand Hotel Excelsior Roma that he wanted me to model for; I wore it tied like a piece of origami, along with a tassel belt I had made in the souks of Fez, for long walks in sunny Venice while running errands; and layered with a trench coat over boots for the chillier London days: it saved me so many times that I actually have a children’s book idea inspired by the piece. I own the Madam T in black and red, while the white iteration I once found on eBay was lost in transit by an airline. I’m eyeing the gold version next. 

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Dispatch from Romania https://www.yolojournal.com/dispatch-from-romania/ https://www.yolojournal.com/dispatch-from-romania/#respond Fri, 07 Nov 2025 16:29:00 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=146719 Drawn by visions of Europe’s last old-growth forests and Transylvania’s traditional Saxon towns, Carly Shea followed her curiosity from Bucharest’s faded Beaux-Arts grandeur and frescoed churches to a valley of patchwork farms, where the King of England keeps a guesthouse and you never know who might show up.

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“Why are you here?” was a valid, if frank, question my tour guide Daniela asked me when I was the only one who showed up for her Bucharest walking tour on a Sunday in late September. I couldn’t pinpoint what drew me to Romania, but I’d been thinking about it for almost a decade. When I was studying Sustainable Development in Scotland, I learned that Romania is home to nearly two-thirds of Europe’s remaining old-growth forests, and might be one of the last places on the continent that still feels truly wild. Later, while staying at Killiehuntly, one of my favorite hotels in Scotland, someone compared Transylvania—a historical region in northwestern Romania—to what the Scottish Highlands might have looked like two hundred years ago, before industry degraded the land and the apex predators were hunted to extinction.

Then I heard that Wildland, the conservation organization behind Killiehuntly, had purchased land in Transylvania, and that the King of England had been visiting for decades, restoring houses in tiny villages and taking walks in the Zalan Valley where nobody recognized him. I figured they must be onto something, and I was curious to find out what that was. Fast forward to this fall, I finally planned a trip and convinced a few friends to join me. The week before, I got two apologetic texts saying they couldn’t make it. Maybe the trip was doomed, but the idea had been simmering too long. So I went alone.

Bucharest

travel guide for romania and transylvania
Left: The Marmorosch; Right: The Church of the Stavropoleos Monastery

On first impression, Bucharest looks kind of like Paris… if it was in the Soviet Union. One moment you’re on a leafy street lined with Beaux-Arts facades and people sitting on bistro chairs outside cafes, the next, you’re staring at a block of brutalist concrete structures that look about as inspiring as an empty spreadsheet. One of the more beautiful buildings was my hotel, The Marmorosch, kitty-cornered between two main streets in the Old Town. The hotel was once the country’s largest bank, and has very cool bones—a grand marble staircase that brings you to reception, a lounge in an atrium with gold-leaf-trimmed columns and stained glass skylight. I thought the rooms fell flat for such a grand building, but it was a perfectly comfortable stay (especially for $250/night) with a gym, spa, and fun subterranean bar in the bank’s former vault that served a mean Negroni. Most importantly the location was perfect, and walking distance to everything I planned to see.

travel guide for romania and transylvania
Left: The Romanian Village Life Museum; Right: The National History Museum

Each morning, I’d go in search of good coffee—some favorite finds were C22, Artichoke Social House, the lobby bar of the Corinthia—then wander to museums, shops, and find myself in the middle of Bucharest’s 566th birthday celebrations. The National History Museum was great, and the Romanian Village Life Museum was maybe the coolest I’ve ever been to—hundreds of peasant settlements and monuments from the 17th to 20th century moved to a 24-acre park from all corners of the country. It really feels like you’ve been transported to another era, surrounded by all sorts of whimsical Seussian wooden homes, churches, and schoolhouses with wells, windmills and gardens weaving throughout. 

Beyond the museums, I popped in and out of antique shops with museum-worthy relics—don’t miss Sertar Magic or Circa 1703-3071—and came across an amazing store packed to the gills with fur coats, stoles (many of which had feet still attached), and leather jackets. The shopkeepers looked straight out of I, Tonya, with fanny packs and bleach blonde hair, draped in fur, leather and jeans on an 80 degree afternoon. I seriously considered springing for one of the mink coats, in great condition and only €300 [Romanian Lei is the official currency, though this shop quoted all their prices in Euros], but settled on a leather blazer that would be much easier to pack. 

travel guide for romania and transylvania
Left: C22; Right: Sertar Magic

One morning I met Daniela, the tour guide. Born in Transylvania, she grew up in Bucharest and is now a lawyer who moonlights as a guide when she’s not working on her book about riding the Trans-Siberian Railway. A self-proclaimed history nerd, she started our walk in antiquity and as we paced through the cobblestone streets, we inched our way through the country’s grueling history, detailing all sorts of clashes, conquests and coups that shaped the country to what it is today. The principalities of Wallachia, Transylvania, and Moldavia (which make up modern day Romania) were controlled by a handful of empires throughout their history—the First Bulgarian Empire, the Ottomans, Romans, Hungarians—and were seemingly always fighting off some intruding force to retain autonomy. One person who was especially successful at this was Vlad Dracula, also known as Vlad the Impaler, who ruthlessly killed thousands of his enemies, often impaling victims. If the name sounds familiar, he was the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula, and though the blood sucking was fabricated, vampire folklore runs deep. Daniela weaved in all sorts of legends and stories of vampires and mythical creatures in the forest that I couldn’t tell if she believed or not. 

travel guide for romania and transylvania
The Church of the Stavropoleos Monastery

At one point, she noticed the tiny cross on my necklace and said she wanted to show me the Church of the Stavropoleos Monastery. Since it was Sunday morning, we ended up in the middle of the liturgy. The exquisite church is designed in the ornate Brâncovenesc style, with a dim interior and frescoed ceilings. Byzantine chants reverberated against the walls, and light beamed in through tiny windows at sharp angles. She whispered about the head nuns as if they were celebrities, and taught me the Romanian Orthodox sign of the cross—right to left, using your thumb, pointer and middle fingers pinched together—which distinguishes it from the Catholic or Russian Orthodox versions. Apparently centuries ago, this difference alone could mark you for exile. She assured me the stakes were much lower now.

Afterward we lit candles for the living and the “asleep,” and joined the courtyard where people shared homegrown apples and grapes. At that point I completely forgot I was on a tour, but Daniela had a few more centuries of history she wanted to cover. We ended up spending nearly 6 hours together. She told me about growing up under Ceaușescu, the dictator who commissioned elaborate palaces and some of the world’s largest (and ugliest) buildings, while normal families like hers rationed bread and milk. Despite the hardship, she seemed almost nostalgic for that time, and was a card carrying Communist (literally keeping her grandfather’s membership card tucked inside her lanyard). Before we parted, she gave me a list of things to see in Transylvania, but warned me not to drive by myself like I had planned, since the roads (and the drivers) are known to be a bit rough. I thanked her for the former and shrugged off the latter. 

Brasov, Transylvania

travel guide for romania and transylvania

I took the 2.5 hour train to Brasov the next morning to pick up a rental car, except they wouldn’t give it to me without an International Drivers Permit. My meticulously mapped road trip evaporated, but after Daniela’s warning, maybe it was some sort of cosmic redirection. I checked into a small hotel called Casa Wagner on the main square to regroup. Brasov felt a world of a difference from Bucharest with its Gothic and Baroque architecture and pastel merchant house lined streets, surrounded on all sides by thickly forested hills. I spent a day sipping coffee and blueberry juice on the sunny terrace of CH9, browsing craft shops like Inspiratio for ceramics I had planned to source directly from studios, peeking into churches and trying ciorba, a traditional Romanian soup, at Bistro de l’Arte, while live music wafted over from the square down the road. It wasn’t the day I’d planned, but in hindsight, it was nice to shift into a lower gear between the city and my final, much sleepier stop, deeper into Eastern Transylvania.

travel guide for romania and transylvania

The next day a very young man who looked like he might have gotten his driver’s license that morning picked me up from Brasov and we started towards The King’s Retreat, the King of England’s aptly named guesthouse in the Zalán Valley. We left Brasov behind and drove through endless fields of wheat and scorched sunflowers, and about an hour later peeled onto a gravel road and began climbing up into the hills. As we climbed up, the tree canopy above us was so thick that at points it felt like we were underwater. Eventually we came across a clearing where two yoked horses munched on the grass, and in the distance I saw an old barn and a few cottages. Not another person in sight. He grabbed my suitcase and we scrambled up the hill to a room with a wide open door and dropped my bags. I thanked him with a “multumsec,” and he was off. 

Zalán Valley, Transylvania

travel guide for romania and transylvania

My room was incredible: creaky wooden floors and a black beamed ceiling, hand embroidered lace curtains, and a traditional Transylvanian double-decker twin bed so high off the ground I had to run and launch myself onto it. Nothing really matched—an oriental tapestry hung above a striped rug next to a sun-faded floral upholstered sofa—but it all worked. Every item was antique, sourced from Transylvania, and the layering of it all created that amazing texture that so many places try to replicate but can’t.

I poked my head into a cerulean building that seemed to be the main house. A smiley woman with plump, rosy cheeks appeared and I greeted her with a “buna ziua,” which was about the extent of how we could communicate, as she didn’t speak Romanian, but a Hungarian dialect common in this part of Transylvania. She handed me a piece of paper to write my name and phone number on, and a shot of room temperature palinka for my efforts.

travel guide for romania and transylvania

Dinner wasn’t until seven, so I read in the garden, with the soundtrack of cowbells, cicadas and birdsong as the scent of early autumn smoke wafted over from the next valley. Just before dinner, I stepped outside the gate for a walk and met a flushed British man who asked breathlessly, “King’s House?” He had driven not from Bucharest, but nearly 11 hours from Budapest, which made sense in the sort of way you don’t question in places like this. I pointed him uphill and started down the dusty gravel road in my unsensible J.Crew loafers. The entire road had maybe a dozen houses, each with small farm plots, and I saw far more horses than cars. I made eye contact and waved to a stoic farmer through the slats of his wooden fence, who quickly turned back to supervise his sheep as they chowed on freshly scythed grass. If he told me he was 400 years old, I wouldn’t have doubted it.

travel guide for romania and transylvania

That night at the communal dinner table over more ciorba and palinka, I met a jovial German man who comes by himself for a week every year and was staying in the room next to mine, the British man from earlier, and his two Aussie friends who were staying in the cottages just down the hill. I asked the German all about his visits to this area and if he believed in vampires—which he laughed off. I didn’t tell him I threw some garlic from the grocery store in Brasov in my bag for good measure.

We all retired to our rooms and I slept soundly in my quirky bed with the fresh air streaming in through the leaky single-paned windows. Around 3AM, I woke to someone or something walking up and down the warped wooden deck and rustling with the door next to mine. What was at the door—a person? Animal? Were vampires out of the question? Whatever it was kept coming back. Suddenly I realized my go-with-the-flow plan had left out one crucial element—an exit strategy. There was nowhere to go. No car. No signal. Woods full of hungry bears preparing for winter. Or maybe something worse, if I believed the legends Daniela had told me. 

travel guide for romania and transylvania

I lay absolutely still. Eventually the ruckus stopped, or I fell asleep, or maybe the whole thing was just a bad vivid dream—I swear I only had one glass of palinka! At breakfast, I casually asked the German man if he went out to look at the stars in the night. He had slept straight through. 

That afternoon, I returned to Brasov, then onward to Bucharest, then home. I didn’t see the Peles Castle or the ASTRA Ethnography Museum or drive on the scenic Transfăgărășan Highway or visit the ceramics studios I’d planned. I’m not entirely sure what happened that night, and I’m less sure than I was before about what happened throughout the thousands of years of history Daniela and I sped through. But I was sufficiently enchanted and spooked, and ready to book my return trip to do it all again. Though next time with a car. And hopefully not alone.

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Pharmacy Find: Propolis Spray https://www.yolojournal.com/pharmacy-find-propolis-spray/ https://www.yolojournal.com/pharmacy-find-propolis-spray/#respond Fri, 31 Oct 2025 16:10:55 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=144882 This tiny bottle from one of Vienna’s most charming pharmacies is travel-friendly and plays both offense and defense—helping you recover faster when you’re sick and giving your immune system a boost to prevent that from happening in the first place.

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pharmacy find propolis spray antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and packed with polyphenols and antioxidant

A few weeks ago I had about an hour to spare in Vienna, and having consulted our Black Book thoroughly before my trip, I knew I wanted to visit Saint Charles Apothecary. The Black Book entry on the apothecary had a photo of a dark, seemingly hand-carved wooden cabinet lined with rows of neatly organized tinctures and potions, which was enough to pique my interest. When I arrived, I learned that the cabinets (and the pharmacy itself) date to 1886, and that the shop has always focused on the healing power of nature, specifically herbs, though they now carry brands like Aesop alongside their own product line. 

I was fascinated by their hyper-specific products: antibacterial spruce resin ointment, a magnesium gel for sore muscles, essential oil blends for aufguss sauna sessions, and even a spray made just for yoga mats. I came across a 100% propolis spray and remembered hearing about the amazing properties of this bee byproduct during a beekeeping lesson last year. 

Propolis is a resinous substance bees produce primarily for hive maintenance—to seal cracks and holes in the beehive—and the claims around it are pretty incredible: antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, packed with polyphenols and antioxidants. After two trips to Europe in two weeks, I was starting to feel run-down—you know that feeling when you cross the tipping point and just have to admit you’re getting sick and ride it out? That’s where I was, and this 18-euro bottle of amber-hued liquid staring back at me was my only hope. 

I took a few sprays and immediately questioned if this was meant to be ingested or applied topically, that’s how potent the taste is, but was assured it’s meant to be sprayed in your throat and that you get used to the flavor. Jury’s still out on that, but it did nip whatever oncoming malady I had in the bud, and I’ve been taking a spray of it once or twice a week since for good measure. Luckily, they ship worldwide, so if you want to stock up for cold season, you don’t have to fly to Vienna. If you do give it a try, I’d just recommend keeping an Altoid on hand as a chaser. 

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The Travel Poncho https://www.yolojournal.com/travel-uniform-the-knit-ponch/ https://www.yolojournal.com/travel-uniform-the-knit-ponch/#respond Fri, 24 Oct 2025 15:11:17 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=143408 Thousands of years ago ponchos were created for life on the move, centuries later, the silhouette has circled the globe, reimagined by designers everywhere from New York to Tibet, all with the same enduring design that’s the easiest thing to throw over your shoulder at 30,000 feet.

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travel ponchos

Thousands of years ago ponchos were created for life on the move, worn by Andean communities as a portable layer to weather wind and rain. Centuries later, the silhouette has circled the globe, reimagined by designers everywhere from New York to Tibet in cashmere, silk, and even yak khullu—all with the same enduring design that’s the easiest thing to throw over your shoulder at 30,000 feet. 

1. Antik Batik Rob Poncho – The thick knitted alpaca wool and tall turtleneck on this will surely keep you warm when you need to shield yourself from the frigid plane air.

2. Norhla Atelier Round Neck Sleeved Poncho – Norhla’s pieces are crafted from yak khullu—the plush undercoat that keeps yaks toasty through harsh Tibetan winters—collected by hand after natural shedding.  

3. Toteme Fringed Poncho – This wool bouclé layer with fringed hems comes in a great winter white that would feel equally apropos at aprés or on the airplane.

4. Cos Cape – Technically a cape, but you wear this double-faced wool number like a poncho, with a button closure at the neck to keep you bundled up. 

5. Rag & Bone Cowl Poncho – This wool option has a cowl neck and asymmetrical fringed hem that feels very cool-art teacher on sabbatical.

6. Toast Alpaca Blend Poncho – A well-priced option from our friends at Toast, with a high roll-neck and cropped, cocoon-like fit that gives you great range of motion on the go. 

7. Bompard Cape – This waist-length poncho in a cashmere-wool blend has a removable scarf collar that can function as a hood if you’re caught in the elements sans umbrella. 

8. The White Company Cape – Yes this has sleeves, so not technically a poncho, but it’s very roomy and easily slips on overhead with an oversized, flowy feel.

(Not pictured)

J.Crew Cashmere-wool Blend Poncho – We’re fans of J.Crew’s cashmere pieces at approachable prices, and this drapey number is no exception.

Lauren Manoogian Fold Poncho – Made of the coziest felted alpaca handloomed in Peru, with a seamless knit and sculptural drape.

TWP Hooded Poncho – This merino wool piece has a slightly asymmetrical hem that’s longer in the back and shorter by the arms to make moving around a breeze.  

Quince Mongolian Cashmere Poncho – Made from 100% Mongolian cashmere that’s light enough in weight and shade to be worn year-round. 

Voz Alpaca Crop – These 100% baby alpaca pieces are handwoven in southern Chile by Mapuche artisans revitalizing ancient techniques. 

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Packing with Lauren Ho https://www.yolojournal.com/packing-with-lauren-ho/ https://www.yolojournal.com/packing-with-lauren-ho/#respond Fri, 24 Oct 2025 15:10:53 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=143392 It seems like Lauren Ho, the travel director of Wallpaper*, practically lives on the road, bouncing from one far-flung corner of the globe to another. But she does, in fact, have an address in London, where she spends just enough time to swap out the contents of her suitcase between trips to Greenland or Uzbekistan.

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packing tips with lauren ho

It seems like Lauren Ho, the travel director of Wallpaper*, practically lives on the road, bouncing from one far-flung corner of the globe to another. But she does, in fact, have an address in London, where she spends just enough time to swap out the contents of her suitcase between trips to Greenland or Uzbekistan. She shared her packing approach that’s equally glamorous and practical and some favorite pieces that pack flat, dress up or down, and never wrinkle.

Although I am technically based in London, I live most of the year bouncing around the world out of one suitcase. I try to plan ahead so that when I’m briefly home, I can pick up what I’ll need for my next trip, such as my winter wardrobe for a cold‑weather assignment or hiking gear for an outdoor trip. That said, I tend to chase summer, as warm destinations are easier to pack for and, if I’m honest, I dislike the cold. This year alone I’ve been in Australia, Fiji, Beijing, Bangkok, Saudi Arabia, Japan, Hong Kong, Dubai, Uzbekistan and New Zealand. My style is minimal and considered, built around a handful of reliable pieces that work together in different ways. 

What’s your go‑to luggage and why?

One of my pet hates is clamshell suitcases, as having to flip open a heavy side in a tight space –  especially at airport security or on a plane, is impractical. For this reason, my go-to is the Globe‑Trotter Safari Carry‑On, which has one deep compartment and a shallow lid that makes it easy to pack, quick to open, and doesn’t take over the whole bench or floor. I am also a fan of the brand’s timeless design that can fit in anywhere, whether it’s the Rosewood Hong Kong, Aman Tokyo or The Peninsula in Paris. 

For trips under ten days, I only travel with hand luggage as patience is not a strong point of mine, and I don’t like waiting at airport baggage belts. I’ve also had enough bags go missing over the years to know it’s not worth the risk for a short trip.

How do you approach the basics?

I choose fabrics that don’t crease and pack down to almost nothing. Pleats are a favourite as  they lie flat, spring back into shape, and work in almost any climate. They are also great for evening formalwear, as I often get invited to red carpet events. My Issey Miyake pieces travel everywhere with me, and the pleated L’IDÉE WOMAN dress I wore for the last 50 Best Hotels awards ceremony takes up less room than a T‑shirt. I also keep a rotation of linen blends that soften rather than wrinkle, and technical fabrics that look like natural fibres. Everything can be dressed up or down and most importantly don’t need to be ironed, because unfortunately this is a skill I also do not have the patience for. 

Are you a roller or a folder?

Both, depending on my mood. Everything goes into packing cubes, which I swear by. I rarely unpack as most of my trips involve moving every couple of nights, so cubes make it easy to keep things in order and get dressed without dismantling my suitcase.

What’s your shoe strategy?

One pair for each situation: gym trainers, evening flats or heels, and a daytime pair. In summer it’s my beloved Amanu Studio sandals, handcrafted by artisans in Kenya with a 14k gold‑plated toe loop; in winter, it’s my worn Blundstones that I have had for many years. I also try to wear the heaviest shoes I have on the plane.

packing tips with lauren ho

How do you think about accessories?

I like to keep it simple and also have one for each situation: for my carry on, I have a battered safari tote that has seen better days (but has a lot of stories to tell), during the day I use an old COS cross body bag that’s convenient for keeping my phone at hand, and in the evening I have a Bottega clutch that was gifted to me by the Fashion Director at Wallpaper* during my early days when I worked on the fashion team.

Jewellery is the exception—I travel with all my diamonds and antique pieces from my grandmother, which is probably not the most practical decision, but they make me happy and it’s the one thing I never edit down. Now that this is out in the open, I will not be posting my room number on Instagram in real time!

Do you have a great travel hat?

My go‑to is a custom piece by BxmBxm (pronounced BamBam), made by my friend Dave Robledo in Sydney. Dave taught himself hat‑making by reworking a plain cowboy hat—burning it, distorting it, and then re‑stitching it—and turning it into something entirely new. Each one is crafted from rabbit‑fur felt and recycled materials, dyed, distressed and hand‑stitched in his Bondi studio, finished with his stitched “X” mark.

They’re wide‑brimmed and structured, so certainly not foldable or easy to travel with, but I love it and it’s worth the effort. Mine has been with me from the beaches of Fiji to the deserts of Saudi Arabia—it has a presence, and it always feels like part of the journey.

What’s always in your toiletry bag?

I’m actually not precious about skincare and unashamedly will slap anything on my face that works. The only musts are my own shampoo and conditioner—hotel bottles ruin my hair—factor 50 sunscreen and Lucas’ Papaw Ointment, which I use as eye cream! 

On a plane, what’s in your carry‑on?

Silicone earplugs, my Slip silk eye mask, eye drops, HydraLyte sachets, hand cream, my Kindle, laptop, AirPods, spectacles, sunglasses and passport (obviously). Everything has its own place, so I can reach it without digging.

Any wisdom on travelling with electronics?

One universal adaptor, one foldable travel wireless charger for my phone, watch and AirPods. In other words, as few cables as possible as the tangles stress me out. 

Do you have a travel uniform?

I don’t know if this is a good or a bad thing, as I have secret ambitions to one day be as flamboyant and stylish as Iris Apfel was, but I tend to wear athleisure. Leggings, a soft tank, a cashmere hoodie, trainers and a cap. It’s comfortable, it layers well, and I can go straight from the plane to a meeting without changing. As a side note, I interviewed Iris many years ago and she intimidated the sh*t out of me. 

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Rosewood Mandarina https://www.yolojournal.com/rosewood-mandarina/ https://www.yolojournal.com/rosewood-mandarina/#respond Wed, 22 Oct 2025 18:07:00 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=143772 An easy getaway in the Riviera Nayarit, Rosewood’s newest Mexican outpost is well suited for adventure or unwinding, with design and experiences grounded in the region’s Indigenous art and healing traditions. 

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rosewood mandarina, salyulita, mexico

In short… An easy getaway in the Riviera Nayarit, Rosewood’s newest Mexican outpost is well suited for adventure or unwinding, with design and experiences grounded in the region’s Indigenous art and healing traditions. 

The surroundings… Rosewood Mandarina sits on a stretch of sandy beach in the Riviera Nayarit, just north of popular towns Sayulita and San Pancho. Thanks to the new Guadalajara-Puerto Vallarta highway, which opened in late 2024, the area is now easier to reach than ever. The last time I visited this part of Mexico in 2023, it took nearly two hours on winding roads to reach the heart of the Riviera. This time, after landing at the Puerto Vallarta airport, I was met by Eduardo from the hotel and whisked off in a van equipped with wifi, refreshing towels, and a cooler stocked with Mexican beers. We cruised along the smooth new highway for about 40 minutes before peeling onto a winding road through a few miles of pineapple fields that led to the entrance of the Rosewood Mandarina complex. 

The vibe… In peak summer, the crowd was a mix of families and couples from the southern US and across Mexico who were smart to head to low-key Mandarina rather than Mallorca. The resort was pleasantly quiet: enough of a vibe to bump into New Yorkers at the bar who I shared mutual friends with, but peaceful enough to fall asleep to the sound of rain and tree frogs. The hotel only opened in April 2025, but I imagine winter will be much scene-ier, when the polo season picks up in November through May. 

rosewood mandarina, salyulita, mexico

The rooms… There are 134 suites and a handful of villas spread across three areas of the resort—beachfront, flatland, and oceanview—all with their own private pools and outdoor spaces. I stayed in a king suite in the flatlands area, which is in the center of the resort, set a bit back from the beach and an easy walk (or very short bike ride) to the main pools, restaurants, reception, spa and gym. Further down the beach are the beachfront suites, which look almost identical to the flatlands ones, but open directly onto the sand. The oceanview suites are the most secluded—set high on a hill that you reach by golf cart. They have the best views, in my opinion, though less of the convenience for walking around. 

The design is earthy and elemental—lots of stone, wood, and rope add texture to the sleek white and sand-hued interiors. Designer Caroline Meersseman drew inspiration from the region’s terrain and Indigenous Huichol and Cora cultures, and nearly every element was custom-made for the hotel by artisans from across Mexico and Latin America. Huichol beadwork, embroidery, and yarn art add color throughout, alongside Cora-inspired fiberwork, like the rope-lined ceilings and walls in the reception areas and La Cocina. 

rosewood mandarina, salyulita, mexico

I appreciated all the thoughtful details in my room: fresh limes in the minibar (in case I wanted to crack open a Corona or mix a fresh margarita); local snacks and spirits; a beach bag and umbrella by the door; aluminium bottles of mosquito repellent and after-sun; and sweet touches like a dream journal and eye mask left out at turndown. Housekeeping even noticed that I had moved the shampoo and conditioner to the private outdoor shower from the indoor one, and moved the stack of towels to a stone table outside for me.

The food & drink… There are plenty of restaurants to try, but the heart of the resort is La Cocina, which serves traditional Mexican fare all day. My first bite of the weekend was the guacamole, and if that was any indication (isn’t it always in Mexico?), this was going to be good. It came topped with two wedges of grilled watermelon and served alongside palm-sized blue-corn tortilla strips, made fresh on the restaurant’s woodfired comal. 

rosewood mandarina, salyulita, mexico

And remember those miles of pineapple fields we passed on the drive in? That’s what showed up in the fruit platter at breakfast the next morning. Much of the produce comes straight from the hotel’s own massive organic farm, or from those nearby. I ordered the fruit plate every day and came home googling “where to find fresh mamey in NYC.” Turns out it’s very hard to find,  so I’ll just have to go back! 

Down the beach to the right of La Cocina is Buena Onda, a Spanish-inspired restaurant that feels like a very sleek xiringuito: a dozen or so tables right on the sand beneath palm trees and string lights, and a bar with the coolest woven curtains I’ve ever seen. 

Head the other way and you’ll reach Allora, an oceanfront Italian restaurant, and Chukker, an Argentine grill overlooking the full-sized polo field (more on that later). Toppu, a sushi bar up the hill by El Bulli alum Diego Muñoz, opened shortly after my stay, but I got to peek inside the stunning space which has fantastic views and an open irori kitchen. Barra Peñasco, a hidden cocktail bar carved into the cliff, is set to open later this fall. 

rosewood mandarina, salyulita, mexico

For even more options, guests can dine at the restaurants at the One&Only down the road or head to the nearby towns of Sayulita and San Pancho, both a short drive away.  

The wellness… The Asaya Spa offers treatments rooted in Huichol and Cora healing traditions, all in a serene space centered around two ancient parota trees. After a visit to the sauna and cold plunge, I had a massage that incorporated herbal bags of tobacco, spices and essential oils pressed onto my skin to clear toxins and stimulate circulation. I was also intrigued by a treatment designed for deep rest that is inspired by local shamanic traditions and includes breathwork and a peyote balm, but after being gently tossed around in the ocean for a few hours, I was already in a kind of waking dreamstate. 

The gym is well equipped, with new Technogym machines overlooking a lush garden and a neighboring studio for yoga and Pilates. One afternoon we took out kayaks and SUPs and went for a float; another morning, we went on a tranquil beach ride with a horse Kendall Jenner rode in a Vogue shoot. For more advanced riders, there’s a wildly impressive equestrian club with dozens of horses, separate jumping and dressage arenas, and a tournament-sized polo field that draws jockeys from all over the world, as well as local players for matches during peak season. 

rosewood mandarina, salyulita, mexico

I found spending nearly every waking moment outdoors equally restorative. Most buildings are open-air, and at check out, I realized I’d hardly been “indoors” aside from sleeping. The wildlife here is amazing: when I first heard there were crocodiles on the property, I thought it sounded like a White Lotus scene waiting to happen—but I only saw them while standing above the estuary where they live, at the far end of the beach. I did, however, spot a handful of coatis, turtles, and birds (and heard whales can be spotted in winter). I enjoyed seeing the massive mature trees that buildings were clearly constructed around, the wild vegetation, and hearing the symphony of frogs, birds, and whatever else was chirping, tweeting, and croaking in the mornings and at night.

  The kid-friendly factor… Their “Explorers Club” is right next to La Cocina, in the center of the resort. The flatlands rooms are best suited for families with younger children because of their proximity to the beach, restaurants, and the very chic kids club. You can easily pull your kids out for lunch at La Cocina next door, or, if a meltdown hits while on the beach, retreat back to your room steps away. 

rosewood mandarina, salyulita, mexico

For older kids (and grown-up ones), there’s no shortage of things to do: surfing, hiking, kayaking, zip-lining, horseback riding, playing tennis, taking polo lessons, or hitting the Greg Norman-designed golf course. 

Be sure to… order the fruit plate at breakfast. 

Extra tip goes to… The butler team! Each guest is assigned a duo of butlers who look after you during your stay and are just a WhatsApp message away—ready to book reservations or excursions, coordinate golf cart pick ups/drop offs around the property, arrange babysitting services, special dinners, or anything else you can dream up. The whole team was so genuinely warm—I stubbornly never wanted to call for a golf cart and preferred to walk everywhere, but no one ever drove by me without offering a ride and a friendly “buenos días”.

Dates of stay… July 16-20, 2025

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The Travel Wrap https://www.yolojournal.com/travel-uniform-the-travel-wrap/ https://www.yolojournal.com/travel-uniform-the-travel-wrap/#respond Fri, 26 Sep 2025 12:22:15 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=136888 Nobody wants to be burdened by a bulky extra layer just for the freezing plane. We rounded up the uber-versatile travel scarf-wrap-hybrids that don’t take up any space in your carry-on, work double-duty as an extra blanket on a red-eye and a chic accessory for dinner.

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Nobody wants to be burdened by a bulky extra layer just for the freezing plane. That’s where the uber-versatile travel wrap comes in. These scarves, shawls, stoles and wraps are thin enough to stash in your carry on, warm enough to double as a blanket, and chic enough to wear over your shoulders to dinner. Many are hand-woven by artisans from Tibet to Italy, Scotland, Mongolia and beyond, so they already have travel woven into them. 

1. Alice Walk Cashmere Wrap – These wraps from Massachusetts-based Alice Walk are reversible, and come in the cheeriest colors and elegant neutrals. Something about these feels very Diane Keaton on a wistful beach walk in a coastal drama. 

2. Johnstons of Elgin Reversible Stole – Yes it’s pricier, but Johnstons of Elgin makes cashmere that will last you forever yet always look brand new. And it’s reversible, so it’s really two in one.  
If you’re heading to Scotland anytime soon, you might be able to score one for a fraction of the price at their outlet in Elgin!

3. Knize Reversible Scarf – One of our favorite stores in Vienna caters more to menswear, but this two-tone cashmere shawl they carry would look great on anyone. 

4. Norlha Nomad Scarf – The team of master weavers at the Norlha atelier on the Tibetan plateau use two of the four pedals on a loom to achieve this slightly looser knit. The scarf is perfectly oversized and made of a cozy 100% yak khullu sourced from a local nomad cooperative.  

5. J.Crew Oversized Wrap – J.Crew does cashmere at a great price, and we’ve heard from several well-traveled friends that this is their go-to. (Bonus: it’s on sale right now!)

6. Apuntob Cashmere Scarf – If you prefer a square scarf, this large one from Rome-based Apuntob comes in a subtle checkered print and plenty of fabric to wrap and drape. 

7. Toast Cashmere Wool Wrap – Toast’s take on the scarf-wrap-hybrid is made of a half-wool, half-cashmere blend in punchy autumnal colors.

8. White & Warren Cashmere Travel Wrap – This cult favorite is famous for good reason: it’s the longest on the list, with nearly seven feet of pure Mongolian cashmere to cocoon yourself in. 

9. Denis Colomb Stole – The “Sun and Night” colorway of this reversible stole is grey on one side and tan on the other, a combo that works from morning to midnight. 

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Packing with Zach Weiss https://www.yolojournal.com/packing-with-zach-weiss/ https://www.yolojournal.com/packing-with-zach-weiss/#respond Fri, 12 Sep 2025 17:39:38 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=133281 Nobody moves through the world quite like international man of mystery Zach Weiss, luckily, we caught him in one place long enough to share his hacks for shipping things ahead, and avoiding cowboy faux pas at the airport.

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how i pack with zach weiss

Nobody moves through the world quite like international man of mystery Zach Weiss. Trying to keep up with his whereabouts will leave you dizzy—one day he’s cannonballing into the Hearst Castle pool, the next he’s watching snow polo in St Moritz, then dashing off to a party in Tokyo or Doha—and somehow always has the perfect outfit for whatever niche situation he’s in. If you’ve ever wondered how the hell does he pack for it all?—same. Luckily, we caught him in one place long enough to share his hacks for shipping things ahead, squeezing in one last swim (without soaking your suitcase), and avoiding cowboy faux pas at the airport.

What is your general approach to packing? How do you manage packing for multi-leg trips with different events and weather?

First things first: I do not subscribe to the “carry on only” lifestyle, and I’m never impressed by those who swear by it. They’re often preachy and a bit smug about it, too. Congratulations to you for saving 20 minutes at baggage claim!

Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, I usually tackle my packing by making a Word document or note in my phone with an itinerary of things I should dress for, including any particularly important dressing guidelines to keep in mind, often for a wedding, such as *BLACK TIE* or *WESTERN FORMAL* or *OUTDOOR DINNER, BRING LAYERS.* If the trip doesn’t have a set itinerary, I break it up by picking one daytime and one nighttime outfit for each day, and try to take note of where I might be able to repeat a jacket or a pair of jeans to save room.

When it comes to actually putting the items in the bag(s), I start by separating my most valuable or irreplaceable items, and putting those in my carry-on roller bag—vintage clothes, jewelry, shoes, black tie. If there’s room left over, I try to put in one pair of underwear, one undershirt, and one full outfit for the day I arrive, just in case I don’t feel like opening my large bag and unpacking everything.

When I have multiple stops or climates strung together, I try to pack far in advance and use one of two baggage shipping services called SendMyBag or Luggage Forward. I check the price of the route on each, and go with the cheaper option. It basically just entails printing 3 documents: a packing list for the interior of the bag, a label to tape to the front of the bag, and a final set of labels and customs forms zip-tied to the bag’s handle. If you’re feeling weird about sending it ahead, add an AirTag in to keep an eye on its journey.

What’s your go-to luggage?

For my carry-on I use a duffle bag from MAS Brothers. Full disclosure, the brand gifted it to me many years ago, and I loved the way it looked, but over time I came to realize it’s the largest possible bag I’ve come across that could be considered a “personal item.” It fits under the seat in front of me when I’m in an economy seat, and it fits well on top of my carry-on roller bag so I don’t have to lug it on my shoulder through the airport.

For the carry-on roller bag, I use an old Rimowa Salsa trolley bag, which I scored during a press trip with the brand to Oshkosh, Wisconsin (that’s a story for another time!), just before they were acquired by LVMH. It’s an almost-hard-shell case with a little bit of squishiness, so I find it’s the best of both worlds and fits a lot more than the average carry-on sized roller.

If I’m really trying to be fancy, and I know I might be traveling with a group or encountering some folks right when I get off the plane, I use one of my small leather Globetrotter trolley bags. The only caveat when using one of these is that you need to be very, very sure you won’t have to check the bag due to limited overhead bin space. They’re too precious to be tossed around, but if you’re into nicks and scuff, go for it.

For my checked baggage, I use one of two Rimowa trolleys, which can take a beating and still look good. They both have the basic single clasp, not the hinged double latch, of which I’ve heard mixed reviews.

If I know I’m going to shop and need room for new items, I like the Victorinox Spectra collection that can be zipped open and expanded, or if I have a lot of soft winter coats and accessories to bring with me, I have a beat-up rolling duffle that never fails me.

How do you approach the basics?

In addition to socks, underwear and undershirts, I have a few core things that I know I’ll wear on every trip: White jeans from RRL for no stretch but better fit, or Brooks Brothers for a little bit of stretch. Always white denim. Then navy trousers, a plain white button-down shirt, a striped button-down shirt, a navy turtleneck, and brown suede loafers. The brown loafers are either off the rack brown suede George Cleverley penny loafer with a small heel, or for no heel: the Emporio Sirenuse brown suede slipper. I also always try to remember to pack a black silk bowtie and bathing suit, just in case. I find that Thorsun and Frescobal Caraioca suits dry the quickest. Vilbrequin has fun patterns but they’re a bit slower to dry.

If I’m packing anything particularly bulky like a big overcoat or a chunky sweater, I try to make sure I’ll wear it at least twice to make it worth the space.

Are you a roller or a folder?

I fold, unless I am truly trying to cram everything in, and then I resort to rolling. It’s more efficient, but it’s an extra step I don’t always take. During a safari trip to Botswana last Thanksgiving I was limited to one duffle for 10 days. That required some creative rolling and repeating.

Any other packing tricks or hacks?

Bring a waterproof nylon swimsuit bag, or a few large plastic Ziploc bags, in case you go swimming the day you’re departing and don’t have time for your swimsuit to dry. One last swim is a great sendoff on a trip, and bringing one of these simple bags makes it that much easier to enjoy.

What’s your shoe strategy?

I lean heavily on one or two styles of brown loafers, and I go through my packing document to make sure they pair decently with each potential outfit. If I see an opportunity for a more fun and interesting pair of shoes, I follow the same “bulky item” rule and make sure I can wear them twice or more on the trip to rationalize the space and weight they’re taking up.

The one mistake I used to make, mostly due to my ego but also as an attempt to save space, was wearing my cowboy boots in the airport. I love when the airports in places like Texas and Colorado have a bootjack available for you to get them off, but most airports don’t offer it, and you end up looking like a fool trying to get your boots off. Not the most cowboy move.

Do you have a great travel hat?

I usually go for a baseball cap in the airport. I’ve amassed a couple hundred from hotel shops and dive bars and gift bags, and they’re always an easy accessory for the road that I don’t feel bad beating up. My hair’s also too unruly to get off the plane and greet someone, potentially a new acquaintance, without a hat on.

The one thing that always drives me crazy, and also in the cowboy category, is when I have to travel wearing a cowboy hat. It’s cumbersome and prohibits you from putting your head all the way back on your seat, so I try to avoid it at all costs by making room for it in my bag or shipping it ahead. If I don’t have any other choice, and need to wear the hat for the sake of space in my bag, I make sure I don’t wear sneakers. A man in a cowboy hat and sneakers just looks goofy.

How do you think about accessories?

My accessories are minimal, but I’m a big collector of sunglasses, so I bring one pair or more for each day I’m away so I can switch it up. I lay them all out in an effort to resemble Elton John’s sunglasses closet (Google it!), but my room usually just ends up looking like a Sunglass Hut. I have yet to find an elegant and efficient way to pack them though, so if you have any ideas please share them with me!

What’s always in your Dopp kit/toiletry bag/pharmacy kit?

The obvious things—toothpaste, toothbrush, deodorant—none of which I’m precious about. After trying every boutique-y brand and venture-backed DTC “disruptor,” I’ve retreated back to the big box, Proctor & Gamble types.

If I splurge on a shipment of it, my friends Bari Baz and Saralynn Feinberg recommended two supplements you mix together in water, LivOn Laboratories Lypo-Spheric B Complex and Glutathione. They taste terrible, but they make you feel great, even if they’re a total placebo.

I just found these small pain relief patches in Tokyo called Nichiban Roihi Tsuboko; basically a cooler, smaller, international version of an Icy Hot patch.

I use the IS-Clinical Cleansing Complex, recommended to me after I saw the great facialist Cynthia Rivas.

I don’t always remember it, but I love when I have a bottle of Downy Wrinkle Releaser. It’s just fabric softener that saves you some ironing or steaming time. If I forget it, I just hang my clothes in the bathroom and run the shower as hot as possible with the door closed.

I bring a new Kaze face mask just in case I’m next to a sick person, and know I don’t have time to get sick when I get to where I’m going. I learned my lesson next to a sick kid on a flight last year who seemed to be parading his pneumonia around for everyone to enjoy.

On a plane, what essentials does your carry on bag always contain?

Eye mask, over-the-counter non-prescription sleep aid, glasses and contact lens stuff, chewing gum, two pairs of wireless headphones (one over-ear and one in-ear, you can swap them out when one dies on a long-haul flight), and one pair of corded headphones if you want to watch a movie on a cheap airline that won’t give you free headphones.

If I’m on an overnight flight, I bring a pair of thin sweatpants from Vuori that pack down to almost nothing. I put them on in the plane bathroom after we take off, and change back into my trousers before we land.

Any wisdom on traveling with electronics?  

I try to isolate all of my cords and converters into a small zipper bag inside my carry on. They always end up in a tangled mess, but I find it’s better to contain them than have them all over the interior of your duffle.

I’ve recently gotten hooked on the over-ear AirPod Max headphones, and if I’m traveling alone I put them on from the moment I get through airport security. They’re especially great to wear when boarding the plane to avoid anyone asking you which group number you are.

My laptop goes with me everywhere. I’m a bit of a boomer in that I bring it with me everywhere more so out of fear that I’ll need it to write something long form or to complete some task that can’t be done on my phone’s browser. I aspire to be an iPad person one day, but I’m not quite there yet. A boy can dream.

Do you have a travel uniform?

I wouldn’t say it’s a uniform, but I’ve found that I prefer some combination of…A lightweight piqué polo shirt, baseball cap, a chore coat with front pockets for easy access to my passport, wallet, and AirPods, a hooded sweatshirt over my shoulders to put on during a cold plane ride, with the hood for extra noise muffling. It can also be folded into a pillow. A pair of jeans with a bit of stretch in them or roomy trousers. I also never fly wearing shorts or wearing shoes without socks!

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Agatha Relota Luczo https://www.yolojournal.com/travel-well-agatha-relota-luczo/ https://www.yolojournal.com/travel-well-agatha-relota-luczo/#respond Fri, 05 Sep 2025 16:17:08 +0000 https://www.yolojournal.com/?p=131696 Furtuna Skin founder Agatha Relota Luczo shares inspirations from her family's Sicilian organic estate, beauty tips picked up from her modeling days and her favorite locavore spots in Sicily.

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Left: photo by Valentine Martin-Duchêne; right: courtesy of Furtuna Skin

Tell us a bit about you and your company—how did you get started down this path?

My interest in beauty and wellness began when I started working as a model at 16 years old. I had the opportunity to collaborate with some of the world’s most talented makeup artists, dermatologists and estheticians—and when you’re surrounded by that level of expertise, you naturally become a bit of a beauty product obsessive.

When I was pregnant with our first child, our pediatrician told me that what you put on your skin is absorbed into your bloodstream. Learning that shifted everything for me. I became deeply mindful of the quality and origin of ingredients, and it sparked a passion for natural, clean beauty.

I knew that our farm in Sicily—La Furtuna Estate—with its rich, bountiful land and rare botanicals, could be the foundation for something truly special. Shortly after, Furtuna Skin was born out of a desire to share the incredible power of wild-foraged botanicals through clean, high-performance skincare. It’s a blend of my background in fashion with a lifelong commitment to wellness, sustainability and regenerative living. It’s a way to share something truly beautiful and purposeful with the world. 

Could you tell us a bit about your farm in Sicily and your experience as an olive oil sommelier?

Our farm in Sicily is truly magical—it’s on over 800 acres of untouched, organic land rich in biodiversity. The estate is home to Italy’s rare “survivalist” botanicals, which we call “extremophyte plants.” These include over 500 species of flora and 50 wild medicinal herbs that have adapted to survive extreme environmental conditions, becoming stronger and more nutrient-dense in the process.

Through natural adaptation and regenerative farming practices—like allowing the plants to grow in their native communities and hand-harvesting each one with care—we help preserve and enhance their potency. These wild botanicals contain significantly higher levels of nutrients and antioxidants than their cultivated counterparts, yielding incredibly powerful bioactives for our products.

As someone of Mediterranean heritage, my love of olive oil runs deep. Anyone from the region knows it’s more than just an ingredient—it’s a way of life. My ancestors used olive oil for everything from cooking, to healing ear aches, to nourishing their skin. That’s where my passion began. As I grew older and more interested in wellness, I became fascinated by olive oil’s health benefits—especially its ability to fight free radicals. I studied its properties more deeply and connected with experts like Dr. Simon Poole, who champions olive oil as a cornerstone of the Mediterranean diet. 

To further that passion, I became a double-certified olive oil sommelier, which has allowed me to judge global competitions and uphold the highest standards for this extraordinary liquid gold. I’m obsessed with the purity and potency of olives. At Furtuna Skin, we produce award-winning extra-virgin olive oil and incorporate olive leaf water into our formulas for its powerful antioxidant properties.

Do you have any favorite healthy/locavore spots to eat in Sicily? 

furtuna-skin-care-beauty-travel-well
Ristorante da Vittorio; La Madia 

Too many! If you’re driving to Agrigento, definitely stop at Ristorante da Vittorio—a seafood gem with stunning sea views and a menu to match. It’s the kind of place where lunch stretches into a long, lazy afternoon.

Further along the southern coast, don’t miss La Madia in Licata. Chef Pino Cuttaia is a true master of Sicilian cuisine, with a focus on seasonal, local ingredients. Every dish is beautifully executed—one of those unforgettable meals that stays with you.

Before you started Furtuna Skin, you were a model and traveled all over. Did you pick up any interesting beauty tips that have stuck with you today?

Absolutely. One of the best lessons I’ve learned is that skin thrives when you simplify. Hydration, rest, and using ingredients with integrity make all the difference. I still follow rituals I picked up on the road—like doing Gua Sha, starting the day with micellar water, and always applying oil to damp skin to lock in moisture. That actually inspired the Biphase Moisturizing Oil—formulated with olive oil and olive leaf water—to deliver the benefits of that ritual anytime, no damp skin required.

How do you approach staying healthy and relaxed when you travel by plane? 

Travel can take a toll on the body, so I’m very intentional. I hydrate deeply, wear compression socks, and stretch often. I bring olive-leaf tea and sip it throughout the flight—it’s calming, immune-boosting, and full of antioxidants. I also refresh my skin mid-flight with our Micellar Cleansing Essence, which delivers a concentrated dose of vitamins and antioxidants to leave skin glowing, soft, and revived. I follow that with the Replenishing Balm—an ultra-nourishing treatment infused with “Soundbath-activated” Extra Virgin Olive Oil and a potent blend of medicinal herbs—to deeply hydrate and help repair skin while in the air. Our proprietary Soundbath method extracts nutrients from botanicals at their fullest potency, which is what makes the products so effective. 

Do you take any supplements prior to traveling or during?  

Before flights, I support my immune system with a daily shot of Extra Virgin Olive Oil and vitamin C. I also take magnesium, which helps with sleep and keeps my nervous system balanced—especially helpful on long-haul journeys.

Do you do anything special for your skin on a plane?

Yes, I avoid makeup and instead focus on keeping my skin barrier strong with a protective layer of antioxidants and moisture as described above.

Do you tend to pack any healthy food or snacks for travel?

I’ll bring some bananas and apples with me—and no surprise, I always have a small bottle of Extra Virgin Olive Oil on hand, too.  

Any strategies for dealing with jet lag? 

Sunlight is key. I try to land, drop my bags, and get outside immediately—even a short walk helps reset my circadian rhythm. I also use breathwork and light stretching to help my body adjust, but more than anything, I like to get into a new rhythm right away and not think about the time I came from.

What are a few things you always pack for your beauty/wellness routine?

I always pack Furtuna Skin’s three-step ritual—it’s truly all I need. The Micellar Essence gently cleanses, tones, and nourishes in one step. Our Face & Eye Serum visibly lifts, evens tone, and strengthens the skin’s barrier. And the Biphase Moisturizing Oil delivers deep hydration and a luminous glow. Together, they replace a full 6+ step routine and keep my skin smooth, radiant, and resilient—wherever I am in the world. They’re fast-acting, transformative, and perfectly sized for travel. 

On top of that, I always pack our Replenishing Balm, which is the perfect overnight mask after a day in the sun, and our Lip Renewal Duo—it gently polishes and primes without stripping moisture, while deeply hydrating the lips.

I’m never without a great zinc-based SPF. Right now, I’m using Ultra Violette. And when I wear makeup, I keep it minimal. My go-to brands are Westman Atelier and RMS Beauty—clean, hardworking, and effortlessly buildable.

What are a few of your favorite wellness destinations? 

Collegio-alla-Querce-Florence-Itlay
Collegio alla Querce

One of my favorite wellness destinations right now is Collegio alla Querce in Florence. It’s home to Aelia—a beautiful, holistic retreat that I’m proud to partner with through Furtuna Skin. As our first-ever spa collaboration, it’s incredibly meaningful: the treatments are inspired by the healing traditions of Tuscany and infused with wild-foraged ingredients from our organic Sicilian estate.

In addition to Collegio, I love staying at Boutique Hotel Alhambra—nothing heals like the Croatian waters. I’m also a fan of the Ritz Spa in Paris, which is always such a treat.

Where are you dreaming of going next?

Croatia—it’s where my family and I reconnect, unwind, and embrace the slower rhythms of life. The Adriatic coastline is truly magical, and it holds so many memories for us. I’m dreaming of days spent swimming in crystal-clear water, exploring the islands by boat, and enjoying long dinners under the stars.  

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