As a child, our family excursions were road trips. 

Every year for spring break, we’d set off from our farm in Kentucky to our cousins’ house in Tampa for a week by the beach. In the fall, we would drive to Sloan’s Valley, KY, for an extended weekend of camping, caving, and rock-climbing alongside family friends. We would cook over live fire, tell stories around camp, and spend our days exploring the vast system of caves in the area. In the summer, we stayed put, save for the one year we drove over three long days to the tremendous Boy Scout ranch in Philmont, New Mexico. 

These excursions encouraged exploration, adventure, a love of nature, and a natural curiosity. “If you’re bored, you’re boring,” as my mom would say. 

In this spirit, my wife, Erin and I, along with our 5-year-old son, set out on a road trip of California, from Los Angeles up to tiny Philo, CA – it included a few city days, but mostly time further afield, where we could prioritize cooking, family time, and nature. I wanted to give our son the freedom and excitement of a great road trip across a beautiful part of America.

I think this is a great itinerary that leaves room for your own color (with or without kids) – I would absolutely do it again. 

LOS ANGELES

Touching down in LA, we stayed at the iconic Chateau Marmont. While the Chateau is not a family hotel per se, Andre Balazs’ culture of laid-back, “we will get it done without drama” style of service makes it a low-key great spot for traveling with (well-behaved) kids. It’s fancy, but it doesn’t feel fancy – which is something he does well. They booked us a babysitter with ease so we could see friends and our son could get caught up to the local time without a breakdown at dinner. There are many hotels in LA, but for me, it’s Chateau, always – the food needs work, but the rest of the place is a gem. It should be on the National Register of Historic Places, inside and out, if it isn’t already.

We had dinner with friends at Found Oyster, where we feasted on West Coast oysters and a parade of crudos, each better than the next. We took our first driverless Waymo ride back to the hotel, which took a literal turn for the worse when I realized I’d dispatched the car to the dog grooming business Chateau Marmutt instead. (How they’ve evaded a cease-and-desist escapes me.)

We took our son to the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, designed by Renzo Piano, mainly to see the animatronic shark from Jaws, a movie he has not seen but is somehow obsessed with. We visited the gift shop, which had some of the best merch I’ve encountered in a long while, and a great edit of books on iconic directors. 

Afterward, we strolled through the neighboring campus of LACMA to see Michel Heizer’s ‘Levitated Mass’ and the nearby La Brea Tar Pits – exciting for our son as he is enthralled by dinosaurs and fossils.

A visit to LA isn’t complete (for me, a grocery head) without Erewhon. We stocked up on pantry essentials for the rest of our trip (good salt, nut butter, tinned fish, olive oil) and some California citrus and strawberries. A great grocery is an essential stop for a road trip, when picnics are a priority and we knew we’d be cooking in later.

I had a “meeting” with my business partner, which meant eating off-menu club sandwiches poolside at Hotel Bel-Air, like an aged Hollywood mogul. The public spaces are a bit too sleek for my taste (especially when compared to the Chateau), but the palatial grounds (and the drive through Bel-Air) are worth a visit at least once.

We took a kidless trip to Gallery Castle. I had been eyeing work from L.A.-based painter Max Xeno Karnig I wanted to see in person. Harley, the owner, took us a few blocks over to his restaurant, Stir Crazy, for a cold Trumer Pils before we caught a ride to meet friends at Antico Nuovo. Los Angeles does shopping center restaurants better than any, and stepping inside felt like walking into a candlelit masseria in Southern Italy. 

VENICE/SANTA MONICA

Gjelina Hotel for the kitchenettes and proximity to the beach. 

Venice can feel like a living, breathing “Don’t Do Drugs” ad, and maybe not the first choice with kids in tow for some, but it doesn’t bother us. We walked to breakfast at Gjusta (hectic but the contained courtyard is great for kids; breakfast is a dream with something for everyone) and explored nearby Abbot Kinney, the main commercial thoroughfare in Venice. That evening, we had an early dinner at Gjelina. It’s still a great place, but I think the NYC location is doing better food these days. 

We rented an electric cart from Boardwalk Skate & Surf – a nerdy move, but we knew our son wouldn’t be able to hack the long walk to the Santa Monica Pier without the assist. The Pier is every parents’ nightmare and every child’ s dream. 

After a long, hot afternoon negotiating games and rides, we got cleaned up and walked to dinner at RVR, the new project from certified hunk and ex-Gjelina chef, Travis Lett. Our reservation was right at opening, and I knew as soon as I entered it would be a good evening. John Coltrane’s ‘Ballads’ was playing on vinyl, the room was serene, and the staff was cool and kind. We spent a long time speaking with the chef, Ian Robinson, who moved back from Japan to helm the kitchen. 

We ate breakfast on our last morning while shopping the Saturday Santa Monica Farmer’s Market, picking up loads of fresh fruit and vegetables for the week ahead and munching on fresh peaches and nectarines. It’s not a huge market, but the quality is unbelievable. 

OJAI

We stayed on a sprawling property outside of town belonging to a friend of a friend. Some houses on the property can be rented, but not without a personal introduction – it felt like the ultimate “IYKYK” situation. Our house had a great kitchen that left me wanting to redesign my own, an expansive porch surrounding the house, an adjacent private pool, and thick, beautiful landscaping punctuated in every direction by orange trees. 

When we arrived in Ojai we headed straight for Rainbow Bridge, supplementing our farmer’s market haul with any last-minute needs. We wanted to settle in and cook all of our meals at home, and this was the perfect market for our needs, stocking loads of local organic produce and thoughtfully sourced pantry items.

Ojai is cool in the mornings and evenings and very hot during the day, but it’s a dry heat, so it’s totally comfortable in the shade. We spent our days cooking, painting, reading, going on walks, and swimming. We plucked fresh oranges from the groves that we pressed into juice each morning, and spent the evenings taking walks and eyeing birds, bunnies, and bugs on the grounds. Mid-week, we visited the Ojai Farmer’s Market to restock for our meals at home and buy straw sun hats. We loved it so much we already booked to return for two weeks next summer – I haven’t felt that relaxed and inspired in some time.

During our brief excursions into town, we toured the beautiful new Hotel El Roblar, a project from hotelier and filmmaker Eric Goode, the coolest person alive. Unfortunately, it’s an adults-only hotel, so we couldn’t stay – but we look forward to a return trip sans kid. We only ate one meal outside the house at Rory’s Place, and enjoyed a mid-day ice cream another day at Rory’s Other Place. We shopped for summer reads at Bart’s Books, as well Twice-Sold Tales, the used book shop operated by the Ojai Library – one of our travel covenants is that we don’t buy toys, but our son can buy a book at any bookshop we visit, which feels very Bernard from Squid and the Whale.

One afternoon we ventured into nearby Meiner’s Oak for smoothies at Farmer and the Cook, plus a visit to the art store to re-up on some supplies.

A highlight of the week in Ojai was a sunset visit to Meditation Mount. My wife had always wanted to visit, and arranged for us to walk the grounds and enjoy the fading moments of the day in the peaceful gardens. On the ride home, we listened to Brian Eno as my sons’ eyelids grew heavy in the backseat. I’m not sure I’ve ever felt more contented than that moment.

There’s also a great playground in the middle of town, with a feature new to me – a large, smooth mound covered in astroturf, with flattened cardboard boxes for surfing down. No bones were broken, and my son met several new friends. The park was conveniently located across the street from Ojai Ice Cream. I can put away a lot of ice cream in the summer, and proximity to ice cream is the only real reason I need to have it.

Next summer we will spend more time on Lake Casitas, which we eyed approvingly on the way out, where you can rent boats or kayaks for a day on the water.

CARPENTERIA/SANTA BARBARA

On our way out of Ojai, we stopped in Carpinteria, a town outside of Santa Barbara. It was on my radar because of Little Dom’s Seafood, a restaurant opened by Warner Ebbink, who runs some of my favorite places in Los Angeles. The town had a laid-back surfer energy I liked, and felt very family-friendly. We drove by Carpenteria State Beach, which has great campgrounds where you can camp next to the ocean. I noted it for a future visit, as well as Carpinteria Beach Cottages, which look like a great place for a longer stay.

In Santa Barbara, we stopped in to see Jake & Jones, a boutique where we will be hosting a trunk show for Erin’s clothing brand E.M.Reitz later this year. We grabbed some drinks at The Eddy (a small market and shop from the same owners) and headed on to Ojai.

LOS ALAMOS/CARMEL/MONTEREY

After Ojai, we made our way north. We stopped halfway in the small town of Los Alamos (pop. 886), nestled in the Santa Ynez Valley, for a long lunch at Bell’s – a sort of “must visit” amongst my friends in the food business. It’s owned and operated by Daisy and Greg Ryan, Thomas Keller expats who moved back to the area and opened what is, in my mind, a perfect bistro that resists pastiche while honoring the bistro hits, and breathes life into the form. In the back courtyard we sat on linen-draped tables (an absolute luxury at lunchtime), drank bone-dry Champagne, and couldn’t stop smiling. The meal was great, and after lunch, Greg took us down to some of the sister properties, Bodega and Priedite Barbecue, and we filed the whole thing away as a “need to return to.”

After lunch we headed to Carmel-By-The-Sea, a town whose name tells you a lot about it. We checked into La Playa, newly renovated and perched on the hills overlooking the ocean below. The visit made for some great morning runs along the winding Scenic Road perched above the beaches of Carmel, unfolding and revealing sweeping vistas over a manageable 3.5 miles.

Carmel is a beautiful town, but it skews older. It has a retirement community vibe that isn’t the right fit for our young family, so I can’t see returning, but we made the most of our short time there. 

We drove south on Highway 1, the highway that snakes along the Pacific coast, stopping off at various points to hike the fog-laden lands at the waters’ edge. We didn’t make it as far as Big Sur, but a stay at Deetjun’s is on our lodging bucket list. We visited Clint Eastwood’s Mission Ranch, a long-in-the-tooth property that is just waiting for a bit of reinvention and infusion of new ideas – it was great for a pre-dinner beer and a bit of live piano.

We visited the famous aquarium in Monterey. Our son loved it, of course, but I found it crowded and chaotic – not the revelation I expected it to be. There was a hammerhead shark (a big hit with my son) and a cool display of jellyfish (a big hit with me), but I guess I expected show-stopping installations, more displays, more interaction. I was hoping it would be more educational and less theme park. Along the back of the building, perched on the water, was a shallow tide pool where you stood around and watched tourists squeeze into wetsuits for a little slosh around. 

Afterward we went to Elroy’s Fine Foods, ordering lunch from the deli (a crucial move for a quick/healthy lunch for kids on the road) and bought more sundries – I’ve been researching natural grocers for a new project, and this was one of my favorites of the trip. We ate a great dinner at Stoke’s Adobe (and dessert at Revival Ice Cream) before heading back to Carmel for a fun evening at Bud’s, the in-house tavern and bar at La Playa.

BERKELEY/SAN FRAN

In Berkeley, we stayed at The Faculty Club, a purportedly members-only club smack in the middle of UC Berkeley’s campus. It was built in 1902, designed by storied Bay Area architect Bernard Maybeck. The building was a step back in time, with wood-clad rooms that felt like a summer camp bunkhouse in the Berkshires. It was perfect – less hotel and more like a hostel, with a bar straight out of an Eggleston photograph. (To book, I just called and asked if I could stay there.) They’re raising money to refurbish the building, and I hope they don’t change a thing.

We visited the Trumer Pils brewery for one of America’s best beers, and had an early dinner at Chez Panisse in the cafe upstairs, the slightly more casual little brother to the pre-fixe offering on the ground floor. 

When my 16-year-old flew in for rowing camp at UC Berkeley, we all went for our first In-N-Out experience. I had a Double-Double, Animal-style. I was more impressed with the operation and the cleanliness than the food, which was fine, but couldn’t possibly live up to the breathless hyperbole of so many burger lovers I’ve encountered over the years, who will surely roast me in the comments. The boys, on the other hand: big fans. (Read on for my vote for the best burger in California…)

We couldn’t miss a visit to Zuni Cafe, the SF icon. Caesar salad, shoestring fries, and their roasted chicken with bread salad will always deliver. It is also an entirely reasonable place to have a cold Martini. I know there are many other great options in this city, but Zuni manages to pull me back every time.

INVERNESS

Inverness is one of my favorite places in the world. Situated between Tomales Bay on the East and the sprawling Pacific on the West, it is miraculously uncrowded and – in my opinion – perfect. After an extended visit two years ago, we vowed to return when our son was older and could go on longer hikes. This was home base for a week of hiking, cooking, reading, and being in nature. 

We stayed at an Airbnb around the corner from Manka’s Inverness Lodge (which is sadly, still closed), and cooked nearly all of our meals at home.

Most of our time was spent exploring the Point Reyes National Seashore – with its 80 miles of shoreline and unspoiled nature. Each morning, we stopped at Inverness Park Market (a perfect little market) to order towering sandwiches from the deli counter. We would pack our sandwiches away, pick a hike or an area to explore, and spend the day outside, stopping midway through the journey for a lunch picnic. 

Our favorite hikes of the week were Abbot’s Lagoon and Chimney Rock. On our morning hike out to Chimney Rock, we were entirely alone – not another human as far as the eye could see – a rare experience these days. We had lunch at the very edge of the world on a small bench overlooking the calloused, chalky cliffs and the wide expanse of ocean, where a whale jumped in and out of the water, as if putting on a show just for us. (Fortunately we had purchased Nocs a few days before – a must have.)

We had one dinner out at Saltwater, as well as several afternoon jaunts to Marshall, on the other side of Tomales Bay, for a visit to The Marshall Store. The raw oysters, plucked just yards away, are pristine, and the Oysters Rockefeller are the best I’ve ever had. It’s one of my favorite restaurants in America.

Other favorite excursions included the Bear Valley trailhead (easy hiking for kids), Samuel Taylor State Park (for a dose of redwoods without the crowds), Kehoe Beach, Limantour Beach, and Tule Elk Reserve. Driving in the area is majestic enough, and the scenery from the trails in the area is otherworldly.

We didn’t do much shopping, but Point Reyes is a great stop for Point Reyes Books, Brickmaiden Breads, Visions, and the Monk Estate jewelry collection inside Blunk Space, where we eyed some pieces but resisted. For deeper grocery needs, we love Palace Market – bonus points for their Buffalo milk soft serve with Extra Virgin olive oil.

SONOMA

We stopped in Sonoma for one night to visit our friends at Scribe Winery – my favorite winery in America. Lunch at the Hacienda, getting loose on their vino, is one of the better afternoons that exists in this world, and we were fortunate enough to spend the night on the special property. You’ve got to be a member of their SVS program to visit, which I highly recommend.

TAHOE

We spent two nights relaxing in Tahoe with our friends from Scribe. On the way in, we stopped at one of several farm markets along the highway. This one, Pedrick Produce, had great homemade tamales that fortified our family for the three-hour drive.

In Tahoe, the first order of business was a swim in the cool, pristine lake. Kids and adults alike – everybody in! A swim in Lake Tahoe is not quite a cold plunge, but it’s a fortifying experience. I look forward to the day I get to do it again.

Our meals were eaten at home (with shopping at New Moon Natural Foods), but the dads did manage a Margarita excursion at Shadyside Lounge on the first night. Any place that offers a Tommy’s Margarita is immediately a winner in my book, and Shadyside’s was executed perfectly.

GUERNEVILLE

For our journey from Tahoe to Guerneville, we decided to take the long way, which avoided major highways and favored the much prettier backroads, up and down mountains on intestinal roads with tight shoulders, and through an entire universe of microclimates. At one point it looked less like Earth and more like Narnia.

In Guerneville, we stayed at Dawn Ranch. It’s a beautiful property on the Russian River. For the hotel-watchers out there, I would say there is a big disconnect between how Dawn Ranch markets themselves (like a luxury resort) and what the experience really is (like camp). We spent a great afternoon relaxing by the river, and took a dip in the pool each evening. The cabins dotted around the property are charming in scale, and have been updated by Post Company – despite the touches, it felt like something was missing from the overall experience. 

If I returned to the area, I would be much more inclined to stay at River Electric. We spent an entire day at the “Swim Club and Camp Hotel,” and it was one of the highlights of our entire trip. It opened in May, and was a great experience for all ages. The swim club, which sells day passes, includes an expansive pool, three feet in depth, that was a big hit with families. There’s also an adults-only pool, an on-site open-air bar and restaurant with great food, and the adjacent campground, which was the ideal glamping experience for this low-key area. We booked a cabana and spent eight hours on the property. The music was great (here’s the playlist!) and the staff was on point. The experience was from the same team behind Shelter Co.; they also own the outdoor gear brand The Get Out, which was sold in the well edited gift shop.

During our short stay, we ate dinner at Boon Food & Drink in Guerneville and Sonoma Pizza Co. in nearby Forestville.

PHILO

For the last leg of our trip, we headed further North into the small town of Philo, where we spent three nights at The Apple Farm, which offers stays on their idyllic property in a small grouping of cottages. The farm was founded by Sally Schmitt, the original owner of The French Laundry, and it is still operated by her daughter. Staying on the beautiful grounds among the apple orchard was a highlight of our trip – it offered a serenity that is becoming harder to find. Each stay includes a fresh breakfast each morning, served in an open-air potting shed and the surrounding gardens; our son loved walking the ground each day to visit the chickens, pigs, goats, and the farm dog, Oso. We loved starting the day with coffee on our porch, and ending the day with a walk through the gardens.

The Navarro River borders one edge of the farm and is easily accessible from the property. We spent our first evening wading in the river, searching for treasures, skipping stones, and identifying my sons’ bug discoveries with Seek, which became a favorite app of our trip – “Can we Seek it?” was a common refrain.

Adjacent to the farm is Hendy Woods State Park, with more river access and a charming campground. We spent a day exploring Hendy Grove, a forest of towering Redwood trees. I much prefer it to the busier Muir Woods, which gets all the attention and therefore, offers none of the serenity you’re seeking with a visit to these majestic trees.

Gowan’s Oak Tree is a must – a picturesque, family-run farmstand stop for fresh fruit, walnuts, and their cooling Apple Slush, a frozen drink made from freshly pressed apples grown on their farm.

Philo is a small town (pop. 386), so there is not much to do beyond relaxing and being in nature – which was enough for us! But the good news is that it’s ALSO home to the soon-to-be iconic Jumbo’s Win Win, perhaps my most exciting dining discovery of the year. Jumbo’s was opened in 2024 by Scott Baird, co-founder of the award-winning SF cocktail bar, Trick Dog. Scott decamped to the area with his family and opened a roadside burger stand, which announces itself about 20 miles outside of town with petite, hand-painted “billboards” staked in the ground of area farms. From my perspective, this must surely be one of the better burgers in California (In-N-Out, who?) and perhaps the nation. He offers two smash burger variations, a delightful crispy fish sandwich, and an equally stunning crispy chicken sandwich. His hand-cut fries are the best I’ve had in America, owing a clear debt to Heston Blumenthal’s triple-cooked chips from the Fat Duck. As if that weren’t enough, he has a deep selection of Mexican food specials each day, a chopped salad to end all chopped salads, and Straus Creamery soft-serve that can be enjoyed in a classic cone or can be dressed up in a variety of styles; my favorite was “The Greek” with raw honey, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, and ground fennel. They had live music during two of our visits, and it felt like the entirety of Philo, young and old, came out for the fun. To top it all off, every other person was drinking a cold can of Donna’s Pickle Beer, Scott’s “side hustle,” which I wanted to hate – but I LOVED. So much, in fact, that I immediately emailed my team back home in Charleston to bring it into my restaurants. 

SAN FRANCISCO

A common refrain among many people I know is that San Francisco has no great hotels. I’ve tried many, and I’m inclined to agree. My favorite (although I’d like to try Hotel Drisco next time) is Inn at the Presidio. I love the grounds (for Star Wars nerds, also the home of Lucasfilm), the simplicity of the rooms, and the peacefulness of the Presidio, which is still right next to the action but feels remote. I like that there is also a system of hikes just outside the back door, for a dose of nature and fresh air. 

On our last night, we ate at The Anchovy Bar, the petite wine bar/restaurant from the crew behind State Bird Provisions and The Progress. Great wine list, and artful, precise cooking that doesn’t fall short of delivering deliciousness. The local anchovy and tomato toast was among my top bites of the year.
On the way to the airport on our last morning, we squeezed in a visit to Bi-Rite, the San Fran grocery icon. I’d kill to have a market like this back in Charleston, and I love walking every aisle of the petite shop to note what they’re stocking. We got some sandwiches for the plane, and some nectarines and pluots for a last gasp of California sunshine when we were somewhere over Oklahoma, Charleston-bound.

The post Family Road Trip: LA to Mendocino County appeared first on Yolo Journal.

When our daughter was little, we used to do Sun Light prints as a fun sunny-day activity, and especially on vacation. They’re so easy: find whatever object you would like to make a print of (think shell, leaf, flower), place on the treated paper, leave it untouched for about 15 minutes and, like magic, you have this beautiful souvenir of the simpler moments from your holiday. They also make great host gifts! 

The post The Souvenir: Sun Print Paper Kit appeared first on Yolo Journal.

Just over two hours from Paris by train or car, the twin towns of Deauville and Trouville-sur-Mer on the Normandy coast have long lured Parisians with their Art Deco charm and relaxed atmosphere. While the South of France tends to steal the spotlight as far as beaches are concerned, Normandy is a much more convenient and low-key getaway from the hustle of the city. Both Deauville and Trouville-sur-Mer border the water and feel quintessentially French—cobblestone streets wind between quaint Tudor-style buildings, checkered bistro chairs spill onto sidewalks at buzzy restaurants, and candy-colored umbrellas and striped cabanes are sprinkled along the wide, sandy beach. My Parisian husband spent his childhood summers there, and now that we have our own kids, we’ve returned to Deauville several times over the years. It’s an easy weekend trip from the city, and while the towns are now fairly well-known with high-end shops, horse racing, polo events, and the Deauville American Film Festival held every September, this corner of France is still charming and not over touristed. 

Our most recent escape to the area was prompted by the April vacances—a two-week school break for our five-year-old and toddler, and the perfect excuse for us to slip away from the city for a bit of fresh air. We packed up our kids and set off on the short drive to the coast, making a worthwhile detour to visit Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny. If you plan to visit his home, I highly recommend purchasing tickets in advance, as lines for entry can be quite long. 

The village of Giverny is small and easily walkable, with plenty of cafés, restaurants and museums dotted throughout. The weather was on our side, so we enjoyed a relaxed lunch outdoors on the terrace at La Parenthèse—a casual restaurant where our kids could play in the garden between courses. Afterwards, we grabbed a coffee for the road from La Capucine, which also seemed popular for lunch, and took note of Restaurant Baudy—which was also recommended by friends—for another visit. If we hadn’t been on toddler nap-time countdown, I would’ve loved to linger a bit longer and visit the Musée Giverny Impressionnismes, but instead, we hopped back in the car to finish the drive. 

For those heading to Normandy from Paris without a car, you can cut out the Giverny diversion and get on a direct train to the center of Deauville. With Trouville just a short walk away across a bridge, both towns are easily accessible on foot. The area has a range of Airbnbs (we’ve previously stayed at this seafront apartment in Trouville), but this time we opted to stay at Hôtel Flaubert, a Neo-Norman style boutique hotel right on the beach. It has a cozy, inn-like atmosphere and was a great home base, steps from the water and minutes from the center of town. Most rooms have sea views and a coastal color palette of blue and white that feel fitting with the scenery. After checking in, we traded our luggage for sand toys and headed towards the beach to fulfill a promise of seashell scavenging. Each time we returned to the hotel throughout our stay, our daughter took delight in asking for the heavy brass room key, while the friendly hotel attendant tucked away our stroller and other sand-filled belongings.  

Normandy famously has unpredictable and often gloomy weather, so thankfully there’s plenty to do beyond the beach. We began most mornings with coffee and a slice of cake on the terrace at Villa Gypsy, a quaint café and boutique, and one of the few spots serving a quality latte in the area. (Many local businesses open later in the morning and are often closed several days a week, so plan accordingly.) After our morning coffee, we strolled the streets of Trouville before deciding on the day’s main outing: a museum visit one day, and a trip across the bridge to Deauville for lunch and a game of miniature golf the next, and we always incorporated some beach time when the weather permitted. One of the highlights of our trip was visiting Les Franciscaines, a beautifully restored cultural center near the Deauville hippodrome. Entry is free and inside there’s a multi-level library, rotating exhibitions, and a salon de thé, and we found it to be a wonderful stop for both adults and children. Another culture hit is the Musée Villa Montebello in Trouville—a museum dedicated to local history and artists, with creative workshops for all ages. If your visit coincides with the French vacances, be sure to register early for the workshops, as they tend to fill up quickly.

Deauville has some high-end boutiques, including a smaller outpost of the famous Parisian department store Printemps, located on the main Place de Morny. And design enthusiasts will appreciate Le BO Magasin, Par Hasard Maison, and La Maison, which has a casual cafe that’s perfect if you have kids in tow. In Trouville, L’Usage du Papier is a personal favorite—a charming book and paper shop with a tasteful edit of curiosities, like the embroidered pencil bag that I happily brought home as a souvenir. À La Petite Jeanette is another beloved women’s clothing store which I’ve yet to visit, but have saved for next time. 

And finally, the main event in Normandy: dining. The region is known for its exceptional seafood, and both towns have lively fish markets and classic brasseries where starched white tablecloths practically overflow with trays of fresh oysters. If seafood isn’t your thing, most menus also have the typical French classics like steak frites. Some of our tried-and-true favorites are Le Drakkar, Les Vapeurs, Le Central, Le Comptoir et la Table, and Les Quatre Chats. For something more refined, L’Essentiel is a standout. And don’t miss Martine Lambert, Deauville’s beloved ice cream institution, for a sweet treat. If you’re traveling with kids, book earlier reservations to avoid the crowds, and maybe save Les Quatre Chats and L’Essentiel for another visit.

By the end of our short trip, our daughter was already asking when we could return—and I couldn’t blame her. A few days of building seashell-topped sandcastles, making trips to the glacier, and playing surprisingly competitive rounds of mini golf were such simple joys that made the getaway memorable for all of us. And beyond these towns we’ve come to love, there’s still so much of Normandy to explore—like the artistic port city of Honfleur, or the dramatic cliffs of Étretat—that we know will keep us coming back. 

The post Just Back From… Normandy appeared first on Yolo Journal.

As a designer and champagne dealer, I travel for work often—but this Easter, I needed quality time with my daughters, ideally somewhere warm, and with a pool. But when spring didn’t show up, I turned to a place that never disappoints: Venice. The city has always felt magical to me—I go often for work and still remember the awe of my first visit. I wanted my kids to see it through my eyes. When you travel with children, stick to what you love. They’ll feel it.

I booked a last-minute trip, trusting that my favorite spots would still welcome us. In Italy, they usually do. Italians love regulars, and they love kids even more. Traveling with children here feels easy. We’re a family of four: our daughters, ages 6 and 8, my wife and me. I surprised them right after landing with the best possible arrival: a Venetian water taxi. If there’s one right move in Venice, it’s hopping straight into a water taxi. After 20 minutes, you glide past bridges and canals—and watch your kids’ faces light up. It’s unforgettable. Worth every cent of the €140 it cost.

We stayed near Zattere, in a studio apartment with a view of the canal—a perfect location, just five minutes from the Accademia Bridge, which to me is the center of Venice. (Side note: I just returned from another trip to Venice and Vicenza for work and discovered the amazing Palazzo dei Fiori by Room Mate. I’ve already booked it again for a few future stays—just because I love it that much.) Our first stop was the Venice Venice Hotel—now a favorite—right on the Grand Canal. Owned by the Golden Goose brand, it’s an interesting mix of design and art, with a restaurant that serves the best Americano I’ve ever had. Don’t miss their lunch menu, served from 11am to 5pm. This place has become a personal tradition. From there walk, explore, and of course… gelato. Let your kids discover what a city with no cars feels like. There’s nothing like it.

That evening we had dinner at Vini da Arturo, a tiny cozy place that feels like home. The same team, Ernesto and Hanni, have been running it for decades, with a menu that hasn’t changed (only the prices have). Think pasta, meat, and a perfect mixed salad plate. They hand you the celebrity photo albums, and when your kids recognize the stars who’ve eaten there—even their Netflix heroes—it’s a special kind of magic. At the table, I overheard a waiter chatting with a guest who was considering another glass of wine. Hanni said, “There’s no driving in Venice, so…” And he’s right.

After dinner, we strolled to Piazza San Marco, which remains romantic and timeless, and listened to live piano music at Caffè Florian under the stars. I sent my wife and daughters ahead, while I found a flower vendor nearby and surprised them with red roses. One of those moments you remember not for its grandeur, but for its warmth. An Americano, some olives and chips, and the music in the background—perfection. A gentle walk home. The perfect end to our first day.

There are a few places I’d travel to just for lunch or dinner, and one of them is All’Arco—a tiny spot near the Rialto Bridge serving Venetian cicchetti: bread with all sorts of toppings. At All’Arco, Matteo Pinto performs pure magic. The menu changes hourly, driven by his inspiration. It’s the best seafood experience you’ll ever have, and it’s just on bread, but for me, it’s gastronomic heaven. Go for cicchetti and ask for the fish platter—it’s next level, and some of the finest street food you may ever try. It’s more than a snack—it’s a late breakfast/early lunch combo that fills you up completely.

Palazzo Fortuny is another favorite—a chic and very feminine space, full of Venetian flair and amazing art to explore. Mariano Fortuny was a visionary Spanish designer and artist known for his innovations in fashion, lighting, and textile design, and his palazzo in Venice—once his home and studio—is worth visiting for its rich blend of art, history, and timeless elegance preserved in a magical Venetian setting. And since there’s no driving in Venice, an Americano after lunch just feels right. A hidden gem: Hotel Flora. Down a small street between all the haute couture shops, you’ll find one of Venice’s most romantic courtyards. An Americano or two (they offer both classic and unique variations), and you’ll find yourself lingering. It’s unforgettable. Last drink: Palazzo Gritti. A place where I feel like a martini is the best choice. Waiters are perfectly dressed, as are the hotel guests—always some level of celebrity—and the vibe is unforgettable. Just make sure not to arrive in a T-shirt or looking like a tourist.

Time to leave Venice—but do it in style. Book a water taxi and surprise the kids again. This time, head to Palazzo Gritti for breakfast. Yes, it’s usually only for hotel guests… but it depends. Show up for a drink the day before, chat, be charming. Dress up. If the weather’s good, everyone will be on the terrace, leaving the elegant indoor hall empty. That’s your chance. The buffet breakfast, posh decor, roses everywhere, and a small window overlooking a gondola traffic jam—pure magic for a few hours.

Then, take the vaporetto (yes, the bus without tires) to Piazzale Roma to pick up a rental car. Renting a car in Venice always feels strange. Forty-five minutes later, we checked into Villa Michelangelo, near Vicenza. I’m an architect—and as any good student knows, you can’t miss Andrea Palladio and his legacy. Andrea Palladio was a 16th-century Italian architect whose harmonious, proportion-driven designs and revival of classical Roman architecture laid the foundation for Western architectural standards, profoundly influencing everything from European palaces to American government buildings. Villa La Rotonda, Teatro Olimpico or the Basilica Palladiana in Vicenza are must-sees.  

And here’s a travel win: I found Villa Michelangelo on Booking.com, drawn in by its glass façade. There are only two executive suites—I highly recommend booking one of them. The calm is unforgettable. With mountain views and total serenity, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to stay in your room for hours. The suite itself is stunning: soaring ceilings, a full glass wall framing the forested mountains with mist rising gently from the valley—like something out of a dream. The interior feels like a luxurious alpine sanatorium from another era—serene, spacious, and thoughtfully designed, with stone columns, elegant iron handrails, and a touch of Roman grace. There are daybeds so perfectly placed and inviting, you’ll find yourself reading for hours. I never thought I’d care about a daybed—until this place changed my mind. Pure relaxation after the intensity of Venice.

For dinner, we went to Trattoria Lovise—home of the best ravioli in the world. Yes, the best. The dough is much larger than usual, yet at least twice as thin—almost transparent—giving you a subtle preview of the filling. Whether it’s ricotta and spinach, sweet pumpkin, or truffle-infused, each variation is delicately wrapped and generously dressed in melted butter and sage. The look is elegant, the aroma irresistible, and the taste unforgettable. I highly recommend ordering the mixed plate of all flavors—you’ll almost always get a few extra pieces as a delightful surprise. I was introduced to it through friends, who are like family—and in Italy, family is everything. We were lucky enough to sit at the chef’s table overlooking the kitchen and the “gratis table,” where family and friends are served off-menu, dish after dish. Picture a perfectly grilled tuna steak, seared just right to keep the inside tender and moist. There’s also calamari, pure and simple as nature intended—lightly grilled and served alongside a soft bed of creamy polenta. The kitchen is helmed by a strong, older woman who runs the show while chatting nonstop. Our table was served by equally elegant older ladies speaking only Italian. You won’t find this kind of experience anywhere else. It’s a bit outside the city, mostly locals eat there—the best compliment of all. Save this one for something truly authentic.

The next day: stops at Villa La Rotonda, Teatro Olimpico, and Basilica Palladiana. First up, Villa La Rotonda, where Palladio’s vision of perfect symmetry comes to life in a hilltop villa offering serene views and architectural harmony. From there, step into the enchanting Teatro Olimpico, the world’s oldest indoor theater, where illusion and architecture merge in a stunning fixed-perspective stage set that tricks the eye and stirs the imagination. Finally, wander through the Basilica Palladiana, a civic Renaissance gem reimagined with soaring loggias and a distinctive copper roof, now home to rotating art exhibitions that breathe new life into its historic grandeur. Then a quick coffee, and on to La Meneghina, a wine and champagne bar in Vicenza run by the brother duo, Andrea and Alberto. They serve only grower champagne and French wine—no Aperol, no spritz, no prosecco. And the wine list has more than 1500 entries. Download it and study before you go there. The food? Insane improvised seafood plates—eel, tuna, calamari—easily Michelin-star level. A must-see, must-taste kind of spot. Food and wine is a 10/10. And as we are in Italy, the kids’ pasta is not on the menu, but arrives before you ask for it. And happy parents can focus on champagne. 

We headed back to the hotel—our suite was so nice, and since the Saudi Arabian Gran Prix was on (my family are huge F1 fans) we stayed in to watch. Around dinner, I went back into Vicenza to Pizza dei Signori, where Matteo Grandi, a Michelin-starred chef, just opened a new pizza place. They serve four types of pizza, including a low-carb option. It’s a must-visit. I really had to convince them to give me takeaway—they are so quality-focused they insist you have to eat straight away—but even after a 10-minute drive, it was an insane next level pizza. A classic salami, margherita, and some super salmon pizzas are still on my mind. The low-carb pizza has nearly no base—so thin, even compared to Neapolitan, it’s way thinner. The others were classic or even quite thick. And the smell… you can clearly see that the Michelin-star cafe behind it is taking care of every single ingredient involved in this recipe. And you feel it.On our last day, we did some “window shopping” for Palladian villas. Not quite in our budget yet, but that doesn’t stop us from manifesting it. We picked three villas within a short driving distance from a list of Palladian villas and went to check them out. We paused at Villa Saraceno, which is one of the earliest works of Andrea Palladio. It was my favorite—with its simple yet aristocratic vibe and an unusually asymmetrical design for Palladio. We wandered into the back garden and set up our supermercato picnic: the finest San Daniele prosciutto and other Italian goodies. We sat there and imagined the villa was ours. And for a moment, it truly felt like it was.

The post Venice and Vicenza with Kids appeared first on Yolo Journal.

Also! Alexa shared a special link so YOLO readers can get half off a paid subscription to The Perfect for a year: https://theperfect.substack.com/79d1aaa8

What’s your go-to luggage and why?

I bought myself the classic aluminum Rimowa Check-In when I moved back to NYC from London in 2015. It was a big investment, but ten years on, it’s probably one of the best I’ve made. Initially, I hated the sensitive three-buckle closure (it requires packing meticulously with little margin for error) and wished I had bought the cheaper zipper version, but this suitcase has made me a better packer. You can’t throw in the last-minute stuff you never end up wearing anyway. It was great for the long-haul trips I used to take for work to Europe, but nowadays I mostly use it as a suitcase for my three little girls who also love riding on top of it in the airport. 

For weeks-long sojourns, there is nothing better than the Patagonia Black Hole Wheeled Duffel 100L. Both of my partners in The Perfect swear by this bag, as does my mother, and if you break anything Patagonia will replace it for free.

For weekend trips, I love my old-school Mulberry men’s Heritage Medium Clipper duffle. It reminds me of a simpler time before ugly wheelie bags and just looks so pretty on your shoulder or in your room. They now make it out of a cool pebbled leather alternative, which is hardwearing and basically waterproof. 

When I travel with the kids, my go-to carry-on is an XL Land’s End Zip Top canvas tote. When I’m alone, I’ll do The Perfect’s vintage LL Bean tote, but with kids, Land’s End’s extra inside pockets are essential to staying organized. It also serves as my day bag once I get to where I’m going, and I’ll always include Oso & Me’s genius roll-up colored pencil case, a sketch pad and bag of mini Disney figurines (right now they’re really into this Moana set) to keep the girls occupied for long lunches and dinners. 

Just before spring break, I got the girls each carry-on suitcases that double as scooters from Roll Rider. They come with little neoprene cases for their tablets and headphones, room for coloring books and toys, the wheels light up and you can order these cute stick-on patches that decorate the outside. In the airport, the girls zoomed to the gate giggling the whole way. When you travel with three kids, you quickly realize there are not enough hands to carry bags (and crying children) between two adults, so these were a big help.

How do you approach the basics?  

Since I had my third three years ago, I’ve started keeping it ultra simple when packing for myself, because the process for the kids requires so much pre-planning. My warm-weather wardrobe is probably 70% white, so I almost exclusively pack white separates and dresses when I’m going somewhere tropical or in the summer. Right now, I’m packing Veronica Beard’s Dylan jean, Attersee’s Relaxed Pants, Dôen’s Sebastiane skirt, and an airy dress for dinners and another for daytime, a few white tees and tanks and one of The Perfect’s vintage men’s Brooks Brother’s Oxford Cloth button-downs (they’re very chic beach cover-ups). Then I’ll add in light-weight accessories like silk scarves, sunglasses and jewelry, which take up not much space but can transform an outfit just like that. Also: a wise world traveler friend of mine told me once that she never packs pajamas and instead wears a hotel robe to bed. I’ll try that someday.

Are you a roller or a folder?

I’m a roller—it’s more fun and you can see what you’ve packed better that way.

Any other packing tricks or hacks?  

I use a mix of large Paravel packing cubes and silk pouches from Leontine Linens that I got for myself as a gift long ago (you can have your monogram put on them, they’re so beautiful). I organize each cube by category: pants, shirts, sweaters, underwear, silk scarves and accessories and just mix and match rather than planning specific outfits—with all white you don’t really have to, everything goes together! 

I take a completely different approach to packing for my girls than I do for myself. This might sound crazy, but I swear it’s a life-changer once you get to where you’re going. I use extra-large plastic baggies from Compostic to pack complete outfits (undies and socks included) for everyday for each child. It has been a total game changer for me when traveling because there is no need to unpack anything, I just throw them in a drawer or keep them in my suitcase and the girls can just grab them and get dressed in the morning without me. And you can see everything that’s inside. I realize this is a totally excessive use of plastic bags (though they are compostable), so I always make sure to reuse them which means bringing them home and leaving them in an empty suitcase for our next adventure. 

What’s your shoe strategy? 

I try to pack shoes that are not event specific. I love my pink-on-pink Vibi Venezia slippers because they weigh almost nothing and can dress-up or walk around all day. Last summer, I got a metallic turquoise pair of huaraches from Espiritu that I like for the same reason. I’ve stopped packing heels entirely, they’re just too bulky. Instead, I’ll bring my K. Jacques Abako’s in silver that work as well with a dress as they do a bathing suit. 

How do you think about accessories?

I go long on jewelry and silk scarves (Dries Van Noten or Hermès) in the summer because they take up no space, look so great with all white, and can transform a daytime look instantly into a dinner one. A long pendant necklace is always with me. Right now, I’m wearing two diamond-by-the-yard-style Dorsey chains I’ve linked together with a gold-rimmed vintage French rose quartz heart. Hoops are also essential: my Ted Muehling’s with chrysoprase clusters are my all-time favorite, which you can wear to almost anything.

Do you have a great travel hat? 

I have yet to find an acceptable collapsible sun hat, so I always just pack one of our baseball hats.

What’s always in your Dopp kit/toiletry bag/pharmacy kit?  

I fill travel bottles with Rōz shampoo and conditioner, which I started using earlier this year and now can’t live without; a mini Tangle Teezer brush (the only one my girls will use); my RMS Uncoverup and mascara, and a fun lipstick that will juice up a look. Right now, I’m into this ‘80s Chanel frosty pink that Tilda Swinton wore at the Golden Globes. I also always bring Moon Juice’s Magnesi-Om sticks which are sleep magic, and individual sandwich baggies filled with Sambucul Elderberry gummies (which the whole family takes), Trace Electrolyte Gummies and my Welleco Super Elixir powder, which I shake up with some water and ice each morning. It makes me feel like I can be bad for the rest of the day and eat and drink to my heart’s content. 

On a plane, what essentials does your carry-on bag always contain? 

For my wallet, phone and passport, I always use a beautiful little leather zipper pouch that Métier founder Melissa Morris made for me with my initials hand-painted on it. Lightly tinted sunglasses that I can wear inside are also a must. I love feeling incognito when I travel, and they cover-up a multitude of sins including post red-eye dark circles. Right now, I’m wearing aviators from Vehla. I have an old Pierre Deux pouch that I’ll stuff with my Weleda Skin Food cream, Rosebud Salve, Briotech—a sanitizing spray that’s pure hypochlorous acid and doesn’t strip your skin of all the good stuff like Purell does (and is nontoxic which is great for my middle child, who is a thumb-sucker! You can even spray it in your mouth!)—and a few packets of Yogi Tea, which I love having on the plane when they come around with the coffee and tea cart. There’s also always an outfit change for my three-year-old, who loves spilling drinks on herself mid-flight. And because I’m always cold, I’ll bring an emergency Uniqlo Pufftech bolero (one of my all-time favorite travel pieces) that packs into a softball-sized baggie that can be used by a kid as a pillow in a pinch, too.

Any wisdom on traveling with electronics? 

If I need to edit or write, I’ll bring an iPad with an attachable keyboard, which is much lighter than my crazy heavy laptop. 

Do you have a travel uniform?  

I’ve been wearing some sort of oversized denim shirt for so long that it’s kind of a superstitious thing at this point. I’ll also usually bring my linen blazer from Guiliva Heritage, which comes in handy for evenings or fancy lunches. I also always make sure I am wearing a necklace my mother gave me that’s engraved with all my children’s star signs, and a Saint Christopher medal my husband got for me when we were in our twenties. A newer discovery is the Ribbed Kick Flare pants from Donni, which are amazing for the plane ride there and back (but also with a kaftan for dinner!) They’re thin, flattering, as comfortable as wearing pajama pants, and even work for a yoga class or a hike. Most brilliantly, you can wash them in the sink of your hotel room and they’ll dry overnight! 

The post Packing with Alexa Brazilian  appeared first on Yolo Journal.

My husband and I have always embraced the thrill of adventurous road trips. When our twin girls were born three years ago, I briefly feared that our globe-trotting lifestyle would be upended by two tiny humans. However, I soon realized that wasn’t the case. We began traveling with our daughters, Bella and Rafa, when they were just eight weeks old, embarking on their first journey beyond our home with a long-haul flight from Munich to Rio de Janeiro.

As I began getting more sleep at night, I became bolder about how and where we could take our girls. When they turned nine months, we drove from Southern Germany to Portofino, Italy, and at ten months, we braved a nine-hour drive to the south of France. With each trip, I became increasingly convinced our family of four could explore any destination we desired, regardless of kid-friendly amenities. This adventurous spirit opened doors to many European destinations and far-off places, including northeastern Brazil, Saint Barths, South Africa, and the islands of Sao Tome & Principe in West Africa.

These travel experiences set the stage for our next ambitious adventure as Rafa and Bella turned three: a boat expedition followed by an epic 2,500-mile road trip from Southern to Northern Patagonia. Traveling with toddlers in such a sparsely populated region is challenging, but we refuse to let that deter us from exploring the places that inspire us. We packed three suitcases, a few toys—two teddies, crayons, and children’s books—and absolutely no screens. For one and a half months, we traversed one of the planet’s most extensive wild frontiers.

PUNTA ARENAS TO TORRES DEL PAINE, CHILE

One typical cold summer morning in Punta Arenas, the southern tip of Chile’s Patagonia, we boarded a 50-foot-long vessel. We set sail through the Strait of Magellan, the natural passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, navigating fjords and channels bursting with wildlife accessible only by boat. Amidst ice fields and towering mountains, a territory so remote and untrodden, animals wander without fear. Over three days, we spent hours at sea and watched humpback whales feeding alongside penguins, albatrosses, sea lions and dolphins, without sight of another human. Each evening, we returned to the only camp in the protected marine park on Isla Carlos III. We anchored near the ice fields of Santa Ines Island in Kawesqar National Park. Our girls gathered seashells inside the boat, and despite the brutal cold and windy conditions, they awaited the moment they could rush to the deck at the first sight of a whale.

Upon returning to Punta Arenas, we rented a car with a local company (which we would eventually return to Bariloche) and self-drove northward, pausing in Puerto Natales before heading to Torres del Paine—Chile’s prized national park. Spectacular granite towers rise from the Patagonian steppe like the spires of some vast cathedral. To optimize our visit, we strategically alternated our stay among three distinct locations within the sprawling 242,000-hectare park. Keeping the kids’ routines—especially their meal and sleep times—during travel is crucial for providing them with a sense of safety and comfort, regardless of how many different beds they sleep in.

On a brilliantly blue morning, we drove through Torres del Paine, our eyes fixed on the iconic towers that give the park its name. Bella and Rafa delighted in spotting guanacos—wild relatives of llamas—prompting numerous stops for a closer look. We found ourselves at the heart of the national park, at the adventure lodge Explora Salto Chico, with its expansive, wood-clad spaces and enormous windows offering dramatic views of the Cuernos peaks. A skilled guide presented us with a park map and discussed various hiking options—many are here to do the renowned four-day W Trek, which would be too challenging with our kids. Instead, over the next few days, our family embarked on equally awe-inspiring half-day hikes across diverse landscapes, equipped with borrowed backpack child carriers from Explora, and a boat ride to Paine Grande.

EL CALAFATE, PERITO MORENO GLACIER, EL CHALTÉN, ARGENTINA

When road-tripping with toddlers, we consider two factors: planning their meals—because food and mood are closely linked—and understanding the optimal number of hours they can tolerate being in a car. As we left Explora, we packed healthy snacks and lunches for our drive to El Calafate, in southwest Santa Cruz Province, crossing the border into Argentina. The journey was relatively short, through mountains, vast plains, and turquoise lakes framed by the Andes. El Calafate lies on the southern edge of Lake Argentino, near Los Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site spanning 600,000 hectares. We strolled along the park’s walkway, drawn toward its crown jewel: the extraordinary Perito Moreno Glacier, a striking 200-foot-tall ice formation, almost otherworldly in its beauty.

A scenic route took us to the laid-back hiking village of El Chaltén, nestled in the shadow of two iconic peaks: Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, both revered in the mountaineering world. In this National Trekking Capital of Argentina, I rode horseback across open fields and mountains, surrounded by wild horses at the feet of Fitz Roy, while my husband babysat. The next day, we set off on the popular full-day hike to Mirador Fitz Roy—other hikers marveled at how brave we were for carrying the girls in our backpack carriers. The first part of the hike is a heavy, steep uphill climb over rocks and boulders, the second one a relatively easy flat through the forest. Adventures further afield, and in unexpected ways are often the most exciting for the kids, and despite the effort, it was a precious experience for us. We picnicked and played at the summit and, to our delight, the girls walked for most of the way back down.

PARQUE PATAGONIA, ARGENTINA 

Patagonia isn’t part of the ordered world. It is a boundless land, unrivaled in grandeur and scale. It’s also the land of great drives, luring travelers from all corners of the globe—whether in camper vans, 4x4s, motorbikes, or bicycles—to experience the legendary Ruta 40, which runs along the backbone of Argentina’s Patagonia. Leaving El Chaltén, we drove for hours along Ruta 40 without encountering another vehicle, traversing vast open plains and the expansive Pampa. Sometimes guanacos and horses grazed free. Sometimes there was a gaucho, a wave of sheep eddying across the yellow grass. We spent the night at a very rustic estancia, the only accommodation along our route, and the next day, we headed north to Parque Patagonia, just off Ruta 40, through a skeletal landscape where the steppe is broken by unpredictable colossal canyons. This area has been sculpted by volcanic activity, with its rugged terrain often concealed within deep canyons carved by ancient glaciers – a surreal striking contrast.

“Established in 2012, Parque Patagonia is one of several conservation efforts aimed at preserving threatened habitats in Argentina,” Natalia, the manager of La Posta de los Toldos, a former ranch turned park lodge where we stayed, shared with us. Rewilding Argentina, an initiative started by the late US entrepreneur Doug Tompkins, founder of The North Face, and his wife, Kristine Tompkins, former CEO of the brand Patagonia, led the restoration of 180,000 hectares of overgrazed land into a national park. The foundation works to acquire and rehabilitate land, ultimately donating it to the government to recover ecosystems and promote eco-tourism, transitioning local economies from traditional ranching to sustainable practices. Only 17,000 tourists visit this park each year, a far cry from other Argentinian Patagonian destinations like Perito Moreno Glacier, which draws millions of travelers annually.

We visited—and played—in Parque Patagonia’s remarkable planetarium and hiked to the heart of the Park through the Cañadón Caracoles to explore the prehistoric art gallery La Cueva de las Manos Pintadas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tucked beneath an overhang on cliffs above the Pinturas River Canyon, it features over 800 stenciled handprints and painted images of animals. Created with mineral pigments mixed with blood and fat by the Tehuelches, the original inhabitants of Patagonia. It dates from between 11,000 and 1,000 years ago, indicating ten thousand years of practically continuous occupation.

PATAGONIA NATIONAL PARK & VALLE CHACABUCO, CHILE

Back in our car, we headed south, navigating the rugged Ruta 41 and “Paso Roballo” through a savage uninhabited country. The gravel road broke free to vistas of scarred ethereal mountains rearing above water meadows. For hours, we encountered no one. Upon crossing into Chile, we entered Patagonia National Park, in Valle Chacabuco, across some of the most beautiful landscapes of the trip. Here, the untamed wilderness of Patagonia feels untouched by human hands. We broke the long drive allowing the girls to run freely across the expansive fields. It’s a special region, the dry Patagonian steppe converging with the wet Southern beech forests of the west, where a rare transition zone across 80,937 hectares boasts diverse wildlife. The landscape, sculpted by relentless sun and fierce winds, coexists harmoniously with glaciers, lush forests, and snow-capped peaks.

Historically, Valle Chacabuco, now part of “Parque Nacional Patagonia,” suffered from decades of intensive sheep and cattle ranching. In 2004, Tompkins Conservation made a pivotal move by purchasing the land, acquiring Chile’s third-largest ranch, Estancia Valle Chacabuco, as the cornerstone of the future national park, which was gifted to the Chilean government in 2017. Their innovative approach involved allowing the land to rewild: dismantling fences, removing cattle and sheep, and letting nature heal itself. This strategy has proven successful. As the grasslands have rejuvenated, wildlife has returned, including guanacos, Andean condors, pumas, and the critically endangered huemul deer. The Tompkins Foundation—now known collectively as Rewilding Argentina and Rewilding Chile—has acquired over 2 million acres of wilderness in Chile and Argentina for preservation, with Patagonia National Park serving as the crowning achievement.

CARRETERA AUSTRAL TO AYSÉN & CERRO CASTILLO, CHILE

We now navigated the iconic Carretera Austral, or Ruta 7, perhaps the most anticipated moment of our journey—and arguably the world’s greatest road trip. Stretching between the towns of Puerto Montt and Villa O’Higgins, where it ends at the Argentine border, this scenic road connects 11 of Patagonia’s remarkable nature reserves. It is flanked by the snow-capped Andes, weaving between mountains and the ocean. I grew obsessed with the views: alpine lakes, volcanoes, blue-green fjords, temperate rainforests, subtropical jungles, arid steppe land, dense rainforest. This spectacular landscape strings together remote settlements that had almost no connection until the road’s arrival, around 30 years ago. Initiated during General Pinochet’s regime in 1976, its construction was fueled by territorial tensions with Argentina and aimed to establish a military presence in Patagonia. While parts of the road are paved, nearly half remains unpaved and presents a challenging terrain of dusty gravel. But that’s part of the allure. We didn’t drive along the carretera for a smooth ride, we drove it because almost no one does.  Much like climbing mountains to reach a summit, the finest adventures are often the ones that require perseverance and effort.

The Ruta 7 took us through Aysén, Chile’s least populated and lesser-known region of Patagonia, nestled between the Lake District to the north and Torres del Paine National Park to the south. “Before the road was built, much of this area was accessible only on foot, horseback, or by boat,” said Nelson, the skipper of our boat on Bertrand Lake. Nelson’s grandfather was among Aysén’s first settlers, predating any roads. “The Carretera changed everything, but this part of Patagonia still feels isolated,” he added. Indeed, we were deep in Chilean Patagonia, untouched and remote. Access to the region was always easier across the Andes from Argentina rather than down the length of Chile from Santiago, which partly explains its splendid isolation.

With over 700 square miles, no visitor to Aysén can overlook Lake General Carrera (known as Lake Buenos on the Argentinian side). We spent two nights in a cabin at Mallín Colorado Ecolodge, perched on a hillside above its pristine azure waters, soaking in views that will stick with us forever. Our journey north continued through Aysén’s glacial lakes and glaciers, the mountains accompanying us along the Carretera’s length. After a couple of hours on the road, we paused at Mirador Ibañez, the girls inside the car playing with stones and tree leaves. Outside, the brutal Patagonian wind howled. Amidst a tumult of clouds, we caught our first glimpse of the “Castillo,” the eponymous castle that lends its name to the National Park we were heading toward—an iconic image along the Carretera Austral.

In search of stillness, we cozied up in a cabin surrounded by raw nature, just outside Cerro Castillo, a modest village reminiscent of those we’ve passed over the last few days. One of the most alluring aspects of traveling along the Carretera is the small communities we encounter, where residents maintain a traditional rural lifestyle, tending to small farms and living in hand-built shacks by the roadside. From our cabin, we faced the jagged rocky peak, the Castillo appearing to float above the snowfields below. Making our way to nearby Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez as we drove through Las Ardillas, we came across dramatic views. Most travelers we met were hikers or climbers drawn to Patagonia’s mountains, yet this area remains largely unknown, attracting around 300,000 visitors annually.

QUEULAT NATIONAL PARK TO FUTALEUFÚ, CHILE

To enjoy traveling here, we didn’t need to do much. We felt a profound sense of freedom as we journeyed northward, passing Coyhaique, the capital of Aysén, and entering the temperate rainforest of Queulat National Park. Along the way, multiple waterfalls cascaded down pristine mountains. The town of Puyuhuapi, with its population of around 500, sits at the head of a fjord near a magnificent hanging glacier of Queulat—an expanse of blue-green ice resting between two mountain peaks close to where we spend the night.

The following day, we ventured deeper into the wilds of Chile’s last frontier. Rivers reign supreme in this landscape; a dynamic network of turbulent waterways surges forth from the Andes, carving through canyons and cascading into dark, tranquil lakes. Our path led us to Futaleufú, remarkably off-radar, even for Chileans. The town is challenging to reach—requiring a 2.5-hour flight to Puerto Montt followed by a 12-hour drive or a flight to Esquel from Buenos Aires followed by a 2-hour drive. It is named after its river, one of the world’s premier whitewater rafting venues. With help from a nanny, Max and I geared up, making our way to the riverbank armed with paddles and life jackets, ready to face some of the planet’s most exhilarating rapids. The anticipation was electrifying.

South of the small town of Futaleufú lies Pata Lodge, a rustic resort featuring six stylish cabins nestled within an amphitheater of mountains, enveloped by lush forests. I reveled in every aspect of this haven: the tranquility, the river, the trees and the delicious home-cooked, farm-to-table meals. As sunlight poured down, we floated on the river with the girls, their laughter echoing as they dipped their tiny toes into the icy water. It’s a magical place. Marcelo Schaffer, one of Pata’s Brazilian co-founders, shared his insights on forest conservation and sustainable living. Marcelo relocated here with his family from São Paulo in pursuit of a more environmentally conscious future, and his passion resonated deeply with us. Pata is not just a superb lodge in paradise; it is the realization of a dream dedicated to preserving nature. Outside, our children ran freely in Pata’s expansive garden, handpicking fresh vegetables and fruits. I reflected on how travel transcends memories of landscapes. I couldn’t imagine a better place to be with my kids—one where they can have a bigger taste of a world that’s beautiful and also still filled with kindness and wonder. 

The post Patagonia Road Trip appeared first on Yolo Journal.

I can’t believe it’s been nearly three years since we published our first Paris Black Book. Back then, it was my personal list of favorites, plus those of a couple of other friends, and  it was really good. But I felt it was time for us to revisit the city and give it the same full-on approach we have evolved into over the last two years—polling all of our friends and creative contacts to tell us their favorite addresses. Our working Google doc came in at 105 pages, and the final version below is something I can’t wait for you to read. Our contributors range from architects to jewelers to chefs to designers to writers, and their ideas are so.damn.good. There are a lot of places I’d never heard of before, and so many that everyone agreed on (we love when that happens). A huge thank you to Team Paris! And for you subscribers, we could have made this much less of a lift, but you know us—as overachievers that isn’t our style, so think of this as our holiday gift to you! —Yolanda

IN THIS GUIDE

• Food & Drink (classic bistros and old-school brasserie, croissants worth crossing the city for, low-key lunch spots and OTT dinners, best wine/cocktail/hotel bars and where to go for late night) 
• Stays (charming neighborhood hotels, splurges for a special occasion, best for families and good-enough if you’re not in the room much anyway)
• Shopping (hidden vintage shops, the best French pharmacies and what to buy there, bookstores, flea markets, independent designers and everyone’s favorite department store)
• Neighborhood Guides (brief itineraries and best walking routes to connect it all)
• Family (parks with great snack spots nearby, how to spend a few hours with kids, and restaurants that are especially family friendly)
• Wellness & Beauty (running routes and workout classes, facials/massages/mani-pedis, everyone’s favorite salon, a 360-degree ‘check-up’ centre and trainers who will make house—or hotel—calls)
• Culture (under-the-radar museums and entry hacks for the very on-the-radar ones, touristy experiences that are worth it and untouristy experiences Parisians share with friends who visit, plus who to call for guided tours of museums, monuments and even flea markets)

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Alexandra Weinress is a gallery insider turned fixer in Paris. She founded The Seen to create art-based experiences across the city. (Read our Navigator with her here!) 

Alex Rash is the owner of the cult cocktail bar and restaurant Serpent A Plume and Cafe Du Canal. Originally from Minneapolis, Alex Rash has called Paris his home for the last 12 years, carefully navigating the picturesque that we miss so much in the Paris of our time.

Anne-Cécile and Kimberley Blanchot are sisters and co-founders of media relations and storytelling studio, August 28. Born in the US and raised in France Kimberley lives in Paris while Anne-Cécile is based in New York.   

Annie Waterman is the Paris-based founder of artisan-sourcing AOW Handmade, which links artisanal producers to global markets. She recently launched a  membership  for retailers, designers, and lovers of craft  and design looking to source unique, handmade artisan finds and brands from around the world; she also offers private artisan-sourcing tours in Lisbon and Paris. 

Caroline Morrison, a Franco-American entrepreneur and fashion industry veteran, opened Landline General Store in a dilapidated pharmacy in 2021 to give a platform for beautifully presented products that emphasize sustainability (and are all made in Europe!). 

Christine Bergstrom – Born in Sweden and raised in London, she’s lived for 25+ years in Paris, where she worked as a model for Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaia and Helmut Newton, among others. She runs Liwan in the 6^th, showcasing designs by Lina Audi and collections by Mediterranean artisans.

Christine Muhlke is a former magazine editor (Paper, T, Bon Appétit), a culinary consultant and the author of the xtine newsletter on Substack, who’s had a place in the 18th arr. for 20 years. You can access her Paris guide here! 

Clara Hranek is a student at the University of Edinburgh, who chronicles her affordable food finds at @clarashangry.

Clément Le Coz owns an experience agency called Le Coup de Foudre with a strong fashion and design DNA. He and his partner, Justina Socas, organize tailor-made trips in France and curated events in Paris. 

Diego Delgado-Elias is a Peruvian-born, Paris-based architect who established his eponymous studio in Paris in 2014. Following a debut collection developed with Peruvian artisans, a new series of furniture and objects will be launched in 2024.

Elizabeth Colling is the co-owner of Merci Montecito. She has been living in Paris with her French husband and their two daughters since last fall. 

Elliott Barnes has run his eponymous, award winning interior design firm since 2004 and has made the AD100 list several times in the years since. Passionate about art, he started The Barnes Contemporary, a private collection based on portraits of his family members, created by artists from the African diaspora. 

Franck Audoux is the founder of Cravan—located in a 1911 Guimard building in the 16th arrondissement—which shook up the Parisian cocktail scene when it opened in 2018. Last year, he opened Cravan across 4 floors in Saint Germain des Prés. He is also the author of French Modern Cocktail (Rizzoli). 

Frank Herrmann is a Zurich- and Paris-based strategy consultant and the other half of #f2ontour, who always has a little calendar with him outlining a three-month rolling itinerary with a focus on architecture, art, history and food.

Gabriel Vachette is the Paris-based co-founder of the independent watch company Serica, and the founder of Les Rhabilleurs, an online magazine devoted to watches.

Jeanne Signoles is the founder of L/Uniform, a line of beautiful and practical bags and travel accessories. She’s based in Paris and travels frequently, always with a caravan of gorgeous luggage in tow.

Josh Hickey is an American writer and literary curator who lives between Paris and Hydra, Greece, where he has founded a site-specific literary project, the Hydra Book Club, now entering its fifth year. He also publishes an annual journal of new writing, The Journal of the Hydra Book Club. 

Leonardo Pucci is a photographer and Dior Men’s Director of Leathergoods and Shoes.

Liana Engel is the Global Director of Talent & Entertainment for Cartier. Originally from Santa Fe, she is now based in Paris with her husband and kids. 

Linda Solanki and Jérémie Colin are the founders of Where Should I Go?, which shows travelers a different side of Paris. With custom recommendations packed into one-of-a-kind guides, travelers can explore the city like locals and find spots that fit their vibe.

Louise De Rothschild and Keagan Ramsamy founded the jewelry house Mazarin in 2022. The duo met at the auction house Pierre Bergé & Associés, and their contrasting cultures yet shared passion for gemology inspired them to create Mazarin, whose collections are made from recycled gold and laboratory-grown diamonds.

Maï de Colnet is a creative entrepreneur who founded Cherished Corner, a curation of objects for everyday life, two years ago. She has been living in Paris for almost 20 years. Now living in the countryside close to Paris, she still spends time each week in the city.

Maria Lemos is the founder of Rainbow Wave and the owner of our favorite concept shop in London and Athens, Mouki Mou. 

Mathieu Lebreton is the Parisian co-founder of GiftShop, a new destination to discover Parisian institutions and buy their unique souvenirs. He tries hard to stay fit while spending a big chunk of his life in restaurants.

Mimi Thorisson is a food writer and cookbook author, who moved to Turin with her husband and eight children after many years of living in France. 

Monica Mendal transitioned to travel writing, becoming a regular contributor to Vogue, T, and more after nearly a decade working as a fashion editor for magazines like Vogue, GQ and Glamour. Today, she lives in Paris and recently launched her own travel newsletter, So there’s this place… on Substack.

Nicolas Saltiel is the owner of Chapitre Six Hotels, a group of eight boutique hotels in Paris and the South of France: Monsieur Cadet, Maison Saintonge, Hôtel des Académies et des Arts, Monsieur George, Hôtel La Ponche, Hôtel Aristide, Cap d’Antibes Beach Hôtel and Hôtel Hana.

Pierre Maheo is the founder, CEO and creative force behind Officine Générale, which has been making that elusive, chic French style just a bit more attainable for Francophiles globally since 2012.

Rebekah Peppler is a Paris-based food, travel, and lifestyle writer and stylist for The New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, and more. Her latest cookbook, le SUD, was published in 2024. When she’s not working, you can find Rebekah cooking, eating, and drinking with friends in the 18th arr.

Sofia Coppola needs no introduction. One of our favorite filmmakers, she just launched Important Flowers, a publishing imprint of books that reflect her interests across film, fashion, art and photography. She lived in Paris with her family for several years before moving back to NYC. 

Sophia Achaval and Lucila Sperber are the Argentine co-founders of ÀCHEVAL, a Paris-based fashion brand inspired by the gaucho spirit.

Tony Conrad is a founder and investor, former board director of Blue Bottle Coffee and current board member of the Tony Hawk Foundation, holder of Parking Karma and Drip Coffee Skills.

Victoire de Taillac-Touhami co-founded the apothecary brand Officine Universelle Buly, which has several locations in Paris.  

Vincent Ribat has always been passionate about the world of luxury luggage. With a background in interior design, he created the bags & accessories line Rue de Verneuil in 2014. 

The post Our Giant Paris Black Book appeared first on Yolo Journal.

Fifteen years ago, my brand-new boyfriend and I decided to skip family Christmas and go to India. We were seeking glamour and romance and stayed in the most famous hotels in Rajasthan. We dressed beautifully, bearing hatboxes and sharp linen suits. We kissed in the mists around the Taj Mahal at dawn.

This is not that story! This year, we decided to take our six-year-old son on a very different sort of trip around Rajasthan. We wanted to travel light, take local transport, and be free to change our plans at the last moment. We were looking for small, historic hotels with character. And we wanted to instill in our son a real love for adventurous, curious and respectful travel. 

So, we packed only what we could easily carry on our backs (no wheelies) and made no fixed plans before going. We agreed to travel on sleeper trains and to make our plans following personal recommendations as we moved around and met people, just hopping from place to place over two weeks.

We had planned the trip mainly for Lelio, wanting to show him an experience away from manicured beaches and the ice cream boats that potter up alongside you on the Italian coast. We wanted a little culture shock and, 24 hours after we left Rome, as our airport rickshaw dropped us off outside the main gate of the Old Fortress of Jaisalmer, we received it.

On leaving Rome, we originally planned to stay a night in Delhi, and then move on to the Taj Mahal and make our way slowly west, but en route we decided we should reverse our itinerary. So, after 18 hours of travel, we landed in Delhi and immediately took the locals’ bus to the internal travel terminal and bought our tickets to the recently opened airport of Jaisalmer, departing just an hour later.

Jaisalmer

Known as the Golden City, Jaisalmer lies on the edge of the Thar Desert, which for centuries loomed as one of the most desolate and dangerous segments of the Indian overland trade route. Long camel trains laden with silks and spices would stumble out of the desert to be awestruck by the grandeur of the castle walls.

The three of us piled into a rickshaw at the tiny local military airport, longing for a quick transit, but discovered that the inner fortress where our hotel was located was only accessible to pedestrians. Thus we were dropped off at the main gate. With some forward planning you should call ahead and get the hotel to at least pick up your bags. The press of people and the noise was overwhelming and hundreds of people were trying to squeeze through a gate designed precisely to repel marauding hordes. I gripped Lelio’s little hand as hard as I could, terrified for a moment that we had made a real mistake taking such a little body with his lighthouse hair so far from home. But then the press eased as we moved through the gate and we stumbled into the wide open space of the first inner ring of the castle. The cacophony of car horns and shouts were replaced with the more cheering sounds of vendors calling, cows lowing, and our eyes became adjusted to the brightness as colourful saris fluttered around us.

We wandered up the steep switchbacks within the fortress toward the battlements and into the hotel that we had booked last minute, Killa Bhawan, and everything changed. It would be hard to imagine a more delightful start to our trip. This tiny hotel has only 8 rooms, but is one of the most elegant and charming small hotels I’ve stayed in. Beautifully restored, it sits inside the very walls of the Fort of the Golden City. Mr Bhanu, the manager, is a master of the refreshing welcome. Each room is decorated with local silks and satins and each boasts a different perch point from which to stare over the battlements and watch the vast flocks of pigeons swoop and swirl to evade the lone hawks. Lelio ran pell mell over and through each room before settling, rapturously, into a window seat to stare entranced over another world.

Each morning we would linger over exquisite breakfasts of freshly made-to-order pancakes and spicy Indian tomato stews with chai and green tea, before setting out to explore the city and desert. Due to our last-minute arrival, we had to change rooms each night, but over three nights it meant we stayed in three very different rooms, each with its own private sitting area, outside and in.

You can do a day or night trip to the sand dunes and spend a night under the stars. Our last-minute planning caused trouble as the nicer camps were all booked up, leaving only pretty tatty places that didn’t inspire us, so eventually we settled for only a day trip. I have heard that some of the camps are lovely, but the gap between photos and reality may well be huge, so choose carefully. However, it’s worth the day trip; it is fairly amazing how quickly you reach true sand dunes, and we played all afternoon in the slipping sands and watched the camels sway away along the horizon before heading back to town.

We stopped along the way at Joshida Talao, one of the oldest surviving oases in the Thar, and at the famous Ghost Town of Rajasthan, Bahalgarh, a village that was completely abandoned overnight in the 1800s. It has not been touched and the perfectly preserved rooms and temples are alluringly spooky. It’s a popular tourist attraction within India as it is said to be haunted by the ghosts of the former families. Some 300 years ago, it used to be a prosperous village of Paliwal Brahmins under the state of Jaisalmer. According to the legend, the evil eyes of Salim Singh, the powerful and debauched prime minister of the state, fell on the daughter of the village head, and the entire village decided to leave rather than live under him any longer.

On the hills above Jaisalmer lie Bada Bagh and Vyas Chhatri, evocative names for the ornate cenotaphs commemorating the royal and Brahmin families respectively. These are stunning places from which to watch the sunset; I loved them, but avoid the midday light as they are not very well maintained and they benefit from a little softness.

In town, we would join long lines for street food whenever we saw them, and ate crispy fresh pakoras and spicy dumplings from market carts for lunch. The one standout restaurant was a beautiful meal at The Trio in town. This was easily some of the best food we had in our whole trip—earthy curries mopped up with fluffy-yet-crispy naans. They have created a romantic terrace right under the fortress walls with tables and cushion-strewn banquettes, so you can dine while underneath the illuminated battlements.

It is worth a small digression to note that Lelio, like all Italians far from home, did miss Italian food, of course. Early on, though, he became wildly excited by a restaurant advertising “real Italian pizza.” When a soggy naan covered in sweet cream and what I think was a jalfrezi sauce arrived as his “margherita pizza,” he was vastly disappointed and stuck to pulao and tandoori chicken from then on. His disappointment was a blessing as he never asked again. (In fairness, I felt the same way about the wine.)

Jodhpur

A day later than we had planned, we moved from Gold to Blue. We took a local train to Jodhpur and travelled third-class sleeper, to Lelio’s delight. The eight hour trip was enormous fun as we shared tiffins, photos and sign language with other families. In this I would say travelling with a child was actually easier as people wanted to help and chat, and loved seeing us with him.

We spent a part of our journey trying to wangle a room at our first choice, RAAS Jodhpur, of which we have heard wonderful things, but it was completely full and not to be. We ended up staying in Thikana House, an historic property buried right in the middle of the old town. This was definitely simpler but still very charming, a stained-glass bedecked merchant’s house (haveli) right in the old city, lovingly restored by a family. The family all live in the property and take great pride in preparing traditional Indian breakfasts on the 5^th floor roof terrace.

The highlight of Jodhpur for us was the fortress with its attendant museum, stuffed full of hundreds of years of weapons, armour, carriages, palanquins, costumes, and art from the last four centuries. We meandered back down the hill from the fortress through the famous Blue Alley, a long lane of houses painted entirely blue and studded with some extraordinary traditional and very modern murals and wall art. I also loved exploring the preserved havelis with rich museum style displays and artifacts of trade and home life.

Obviously, many of our decisions have to be seen through the eyes of a small boy, which is how we ended up eating at Dylan, an entirely blue (entirely, down to the tableware) café named after the owner’s love of one Bob Dylan, and exclusively playing his music. Lelio loved it, although I was just relieved his scrambled eggs came out yellow rather than blue. The Indian owner was charming and sat down to teach Lelio some Dylan riffs on his guitar. While it fit our brief of quirky and independent, I’m not sure I would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone past their gap year!

Rawla Narlai

Then we went down to Rawla Narlai, a 17^th century hunting Lodge of the Maharajas of Jodhpur—a scion of the family has done it up in the last 20 years. It’s located in a very small town called Narlai, overlooked by a white elephant sculpture perched high on a hill above the town.

This was definitely a change of pace from our backpacking vibe, as it is simply stunning. As we drove up to be greeted with a spectacular low drum beat and wreaths of flowers, I hastily ran to my room to shake out the least wrinkled of my outfits. Within minutes of arriving in our room came the trill of a call from reception—a leopardess and her cubs had been spotted not five minutes drive away, would we like to see?

It was spectacular, and Lelio was thrilled to see the cubs gamboling away in the rocky shrubs.

When we got back, we dressed up as much as we were able, for Rawla Narlai offers truly one of the most spectacular dinners I can imagine. After a welcome drink by candlelight, we clambered into the back of a well-used bullock cart. The cart jostled and swayed through town as night fell and a sadhu walked behind carrying a torch which threw eerie shadows along the village walls. His chants raise the otherworldly feeling.  

We moved through the jungle and arrived at a vast stepwell that used to serve the village and the lodge, illuminated by hundreds of hand-lit twinkling candles. We watched fresh chapatis being made on an open fire while the wonderfully varied and excellent hot dishes kept coming. I remember complex spices and ice-cold chardonnay (our first in India). We ate accompanied by the low slow chants of a local yogi, and the service was exquisite. We came back sated and starstruck and curled Lelio up in a corner of the beautifully appointed bar as we had a nightcap. The knowledgeable barman who made us a series of delightfully innovative twists on Rob Roys and whiskey sours, which we slightly regretted the next day, as we blinked awake at 5am for a dawn safari in chic kitted out safari jeeps and saw crocodiles, wild peacocks, deer, and many other gorgeous creatures before eating tiffin breakfast and drinking hot chai as the sun rose.

Kumbhalgarh Fort

On the recommendation of our host, we took a car from there to the “Great Wall of India,” the longest contiguous wall after the Great Wall of China (no, I hadn’t heard of it either). This was very much a little boy’s dream fortress, an easy one day trip from Udaipur and an intoxicating view of the might of the Mughals. There are only a few rooms open, but they have wonderful hunting frescos of elephants, crocodiles, and tigers, and the views were incredible.

Kumbhalgarh (which naturally prompted us to sing Kumbhalgarh, my love.. for the rest of the trip) was a stunning place to spend a day and walk a little. We stayed at the Aodhi Resort – our hosts at Rawla Narlai had called ahead and we were a little overwhelmed to tumble out the car after a 2-hour transfer to be greeted with big bunches of roses and petals being thrown from above the gate. It’s a simple place, but hugely welcoming and the curries were delicious.

Udaipur

From there we took a taxi to Udaipur. We stayed in the Amet Haveli, one of the former women’s palaces that sit along the banks of the lake and look back at the more famous Lake Palace hotel. We realized how fortunate we had been to have reversed our itinerary at the beginning—Udaipur was a completely different experience to the Rajasthan we had been seeing. It was quite literally paved in marble and felt pristine and clean. Lelio immediately pointed out that there were no cows on the streets, for the first time in our trip.

We had a room that reached out onto the water and could have lazed away days in our silk cushion covered window seat, fingers almost trailing in the water, as small boats puttered softly by.

Goa

After all the adventure, we needed to slow down a little for our last couple of days before getting home, and flew from Udaipur to Goa for our last two nights.

We have both been many times in the past and intended to go very north or very south, but decided to start in Anjuna as it was a Friday, and we wanted to take Lelio to the Sunday market and trance party at Hilltop Café in Vagator that I had last been to many years ago. This is smaller and less tatty than the famous Saturday market in a soccer field near town. We dressed him in acid-bright tie-dye and off we set. The market, like me, has grown stately and is much cleaner and more charming than I recall. We got Lelio a few glowsticks and I enjoyed the vertiginous experience of dancing with my son in a place I had last danced when wondering whether Y2K was going to affect my flight home.

In the end we stayed both nights, a bit weary of constant travel, and having found a pretty, wooden chalet-style Anjuna hotel with a lovely pool and made one great discovery…

The Slow Tide, Anjuna Beach

This is a new cocktail bar/restaurant which opened in December 2022 at the very north of Anjuna beach—a huge game changer for that area. Its extremely understated and chic design paired beautifully with really exceptional modern South Asian cuisine and sublime cocktails. 

They call themselves “haute hippie” and mix nods back to the old Goa days with a freshly modern approach to both food and design. I loved a delightfully fresh tequila-based cocktail called Acid Erick (all the drinks are named after the storied denizens of the area, and come with potted biographies in lieu of ingredient lists) which came with a knowing if not-so-subtle wink at the area’s history. They’ve carved out their own spot of clean and quiet at the end of the famous but overly crowded beach, and I think may be the harbinger of a new revival for Anjuna after a decades-long slide into mass tourism, tinny music, and tat. The small-plates approach was a modern take on South Asian tastes and was all delicious. I delighted in my first salad in almost two weeks, while Valerio and Lelio played football on the beach as the sun set on the last days of our trip.  

The half-discovery…

We had one other delightful meal at the self-consciously cool Tigra in town, which boasts a fantastic bar.

A few notes…

One small recommendation: we got Lelio a Forever Kids child’s camera—it’s a real digital camera made for small hands and was honestly great for anyone pre-phone. He loved downloading his pictures and making an album at the end of the trip. It’s a great low-cost present for adventurous godchildren!

A lot of people have asked me about keeping him healthy. I brought prepackaged strong probiotic “shots” and gave him one daily at breakfast, and of course we avoided ice, opened bottled water, etc. But we ate a lot of street food as long as it was cooked in front of us, and none of us had any issues. He did, I admit, eat a lot of rice.

Overall… It was one of the most magical trips of our lives and I wish I could do it again, for the first time. Certainly doing everything at the last minute informed our choices more than we would have liked, but India is so full of quirky options, it always worked out. The one thing we were most happy to have done was start east and move inland, which meant that by the time we arrived in Udaipur, it felt like a treat to see such clean streets and no cows.

Besides culture, Lelio did get a taste of empty fame; they adore children and were not used to blondes, so he probably had to pose with a fixed grin almost a thousand times, easily over a hundred requests a day. It was inescapable but never overbearing, so I tried to make him grin and bear it as long as possible.

The post A Two-Week Family Trip Around Rajasthan & Goa appeared first on Yolo Journal.

My work slows down significantly during the summer months, so for the last four summers I’ve taken advantage of this time to travel with my family. For four weeks, my husband and I work remotely while our sons (7 and 9) spend time at a local camp—this year, they went to a French-language multi-sport camp in Biarritz. The rest of the time is our official family vacation and we put on our OOO messages.

This summer we did a road trip around Sardinia and southwest France. We picked up our rental car at Charles de Gaulle and drove down to Nice, where we caught a ferry to Sardinia. We drove the circumference of Sardinia, ferried back to Marseille, and made our way through the Pays Basque, Bordeaux and Cap Ferret before heading back to Paris. From there, my husband and sons caught a flight home to Toronto, while I took the train to Chamonix for a 7-day hike around the Alps (Tour du Mont Blanc). My family took the bulk of my luggage home, and I left two day’s worth of clothes at a friend’s place in Paris that I could come back to after the hike. 

What’s your go-to luggage for this kind of trip, and why? 

The amount of luggage we can take on a trip like this is limited by how much fits in a typical European rental car. I usually need one medium-sized suitcase for myself, while my husband and two sons share a large suitcase amongst the three of them. We also take one carry-on bag for weight distribution in case the other two bags are too heavy, but it’s usually not full on the way there or back. My husband and I like to laugh about how rolled luggage is a relatively recent invention and yet so obvious in retrospect. It’s hard to believe that in the ‘80s we were still carrying our suitcases! 

For my hike, I took a single 40L ultra lightweight backpack of the absolute bare-bones necessities—I literally wore the same clothes everyday.

How do you approach the basics? 

I wrote a comprehensive packing guide in my Substack last year. It’s a list of the questions I go through for all my trips, whether I’m packing for a weekend in New York or a six-week extended family vacation in Korea. Some of the questions I ask include: How long will I be going for? What activities will I be doing and in what kind of environment? What’s the temperature and climate? Will I have access to an iron and/or laundry machine? Are there any cultural norms to be mindful of? Will I be bringing anything back? What modes of transportation will I be using?

Our summer vacations are usually very casual, active and outdoorsy. For the most part we buy groceries and make meals at our rental and the restaurants we go to are family-oriented. I choose pieces that are low-maintenance, i.e. that don’t need to be ironed and are easy to wash and wear. I plan all my outfits in advance using versatile pieces that I’m able to make multiple outfits with. This year, I packed five pairs of shorts, four skirts, two dresses, a range of tops, and one jean jacket. Some of the pieces are beachwear that double as city wear when paired with more elevated pieces. Even though our vacation is casual, it’s still my vacation, so of course I want to wear some fun outfits! I brought a few “going out” tops that I toned down with casual khaki shorts or denim bermudas so that the overall vibe still leaned casual. Knowing the outfits in advance also means I know exactly what undergarments (bra and underwear cut) I need. For a long vacation like this, I pack one week’s worth of underwear and running socks.

Are you a roller or a folder?

It’s been a journey: I used to be a folder, then a roller, then a flat-layer, and now I do a mix of all three! I roll things that are wrinkle-resistant, fold and flat-lay things that wrinkle easily or can’t be folded. Space isn’t usually an issue when I’m checking luggage, but if I’m using a carry-on, I’m also a stuffer: I stuff bags with underwear and other garments which I then stuff into other bags.

What’s your shoe strategy? 

This summer I packed five pairs of shoes. Two of the pairs I wore 80% of the time—a jelly shoe that doubles as a shoe I can walk around a city in and can wear to the beach, and a pair of black strappy sandals which I can walk all day in but are on the dressier side, so they elevate an otherwise casual outfit. I also packed one pair of running sneakers for working out, a pair of Adidas Miss Stan sneakers (which I barely wore), and the Arizona Love pearl trekkies, which I didn’t wear much because I ended up wearing my jelly shoes!

How do you think about accessories?

I keep them simple as well. I packed two bags: a white pleated Issey Miyake carry-all tote (the best, it’s compact and machine-washable) and one black leather APC crossbody bag. Both straddle the line between everyday and refined, so they worked with everything I wore. Hats are mandatory in the sun, so I interchanged between one black baseball cap and one raffia bucket hat. I brought a stack of necklaces with different vibes that I could interchange with my outfits.

Do you have a great travel hat? 

I LOVE dramatic hats! Hats like the Jacquemus Santon hat, which is such an amazing statement but so cumbersome to travel with and actually wear—one gust of wind and it’s gone! For the past three years I’ve been wearing Janessa Leone’s packable Felix bucket hat and it has served me really well. 

What’s always in your Dopp kit/toiletry bag? 

I used to laugh when I saw nail clippers in souvenir shops, but now I understand! For longer trips, don’t forget your nail clippers! And tweezers for your brows (I use Tweezerman).

I’m not fussy about my face products, so I use this opportunity to use up the many samples I’ve collected over the past while. My go-to baseline is the reliable and affordable French brand La Roche Posay, so if I ever run out of my samples, I know it’s available at every pharmacy. Aside from samples, I always have LRP Anthelios sunscreen, prescription tretinoin, my nixit menstrual disc (if you haven’t tried it, it’s a game changer), at least three lip balms because I’m always losing them, a few hair ties, bobby pins and Q-tips. Shampoo and conditioner are usually the first things I end up buying on the ground. 

I wear little to no make-up at home, and on vacation wear even less because I don’t like how it feels in the heat. Nevertheless, I’ll bring some basics just in case. This year I packed Sweed Miracle Powder, Iris & Romeo mascara, a MAC blush, and a few glossy lipsticks that I picked up in Korea. 

On a plane, what essentials does your carry-on bag always contain? 

Moisturizer and lip balm because my skin gets so dehydrated on flights—Carmex is a perennial go-to and lately I’ve been using Molly Sims’ Like A Gloss. Essential medications in case my luggage gets lost. Toothbrush and mini toothpaste, especially for long-haul flights. My padded sleep mask if I want to sleep. Earphones (see below) and chargers if I plan on using electronics.

Any wisdom on traveling with electronics? 

Years ago, an airline gave me an earphone case and I’ve been using it ever since. It fits a few pairs of earphones (at least one pair with a standard airline jack), as well as earphone splitters (key to avoid fights when you have two sons close in age!) and headphone converters. 

Do you have a travel uniform? 

I try to choose an outfit from whatever I’ve set aside to pack, and I usually include my bulkiest outerwear. For this trip it was my denim jacket, Adidas sneakers and a tee. I always like to wear long pants on a plane even in the summer. Lately it’s been a pair of jogging pants—I picked up a pair of men’s Nike sweatpants at a local consignment shop for $10 and they’re my go-to. For everyone who says that it’s gauche to wear sweatpants on a flight, I say too bad! 

OK, we’re dying to know how you managed to pack for one week in one 40L backpack! What did you bring?

It was essential that I kept the total weight below 10 kg as I was carrying it the whole way. Daytime temperatures can climb as high as 30C and lows can drop to 7C, especially at elevation. Rain is always a possibility. You need to be prepared for these conditions even if they ultimately don’t happen because, from experience, hypothermia is real. 10 kg adds up really quickly, so you need to be very strategic. I wore the same Lululemon running top and Adidas running shorts every day! I sink-washed them every night, and hung or blow-dried dry (where available).

I packed: 

• Outerwear: 1 rain jacket + 1 rain pant (and thank goodness, because it poured for three days!), 1 fleece zip-up jacket, Aritzia baseball cap, Janessa Leone Dakin hood, Uniqlo cashmere gloves, sunglasses, glasses.
• Bottoms: 1 pair of full-length leggings (I only wore them at night), 1 pair of running shorts (I wore these everyday!).
• Tops: 1 short-sleeve running tee, 1 sleeveless running tank (didn’t wear)
• Undergarments: We Norwegians long-sleeve wool top and leggings, Hod Paris set as pajamas, 6 pairs of wool socks, 8 pairs of underwear, 1 sports bra, 1 bra.
• Shoes: hiking shoes, Arizona Love pearl trekkies (for indoor hut use).
• Bare minimum toiletries (all travel sizes): face wash, moisturizer, sunscreen, toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, medications, Polysporin, bandaids, hair elastics.
• Others: travel towel, hiking poles, travel CPAP machine (ugh!), sleeping bag liner, iPhone, Apple Watch + chargers and converters, water bottle, snacks, toilet paper, 3 ziplock bags, wallet, passport.

I used every single thing, although because I didn’t end up sleeping at elevation, I could have probably skipped the wool top and leggings.

The post Packing for a 4-week European Adventure with Irene Kim appeared first on Yolo Journal.

Our motivations for skiing in Europe were part romantic, part practical. Who doesn’t love the ideal of experiencing the Alps, with its Slim Aarons history of social swells taking in the sun between runs, cocktails and cigarettes in hand. But there’s also a sensible reason to consider the continent for a ski trip, and that’s the exorbitant costs of just about everything at the top U.S. resorts during peak season. From airfare to accommodations and lift tickets, skiing in the western US has become chokingly expensive around the holidays and school breaks.

The post Just Back From…the Aosta Valley appeared first on Yolo Journal.